54Strat

I'm lucky enough to work on the LEGO video games, one of the designers here has this... https://www.flickr.com/photos/bricktrix/albums/72157626190876621 Also, as well as designing the LEGO Caterham Set, he has few of these.... Loads more and other stuff on his Flickr.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/bricktrix/albums He's probably on this forum, not sure of his username.

As it happens, I've just completed 2 x 2mm Chivers kits. Transfers are from Railtec (#3701 - Parcel Van Details Tare / XP / Length) though this seems to be omitted from their website in the 2mm Section and there's no 4mm version as you've found. Incidentally, the 7mm Blue Parcels CCT transfer sheet is different from the 2mm sheet I received, the main difference being no Express Parcels on the 2mm version It would be worth contacting them as I'm sure they'll print a 4mm version of either. I also did a custom sheet for PMV / NQV for a couple or Dapol 2mm repaints (below), you're welcome to a copy of the artwork . Paul

Thanks Andy, I'll put some on my next order. And thanks for the explanation, it makes sense. Paul

Hi, I've a couple of questions, if you'd be so kind.. Does the 'ram' mentioned in buffers 2-064 to 2-068 refer to the distance from the head to the piston casing, i.e. the distance the head can move back before hitting the piston case? I'm looking for the right buffers for the association's 24.5t mineral wagons, and wondering which ones are suitable as the 2-425/2 turned head ones suggested use the old codes. Paul

A bit of wearthering and that'll look grand. Even though the process is quite long winded, I've found I can get good results too. Make sure not to leave the salt on too long after the top coat, in fact, remove it as soon as possible. After leaving it overnight I had terrible trouble getting the effect I wanted, the hairspray (which should dissolve) became sealed in and very hard lift the salt. I also use a few grains of rock salt for bigger patches, and I've also found that you can quite easily scratch away the top coat with a scriber if you catch it early enough. Paul

Thank Pix, that's top advice. I'll order some, and use the 2-351 chassis for some more 24.5t minerals I'm building alongside the 21t wagons. Paul

Hi all. I've just started a couple of 21t minerals (pic of body 2-502 kit here) and I'm using the Fence House 2-351 12' chassis (pic here). Would anyone be able to tell me where the buffer beams are? I've looked through the association's shop and not found any to buy separately. So is this something I should make myself, not hard I guess but I can't help thinking I'm missing something? Thanks Paul

Thanks for the reply Rich. I re-read the instructions and they do lead you to this situation if followed properly. I've managed to get a good fit now by cutting and filing and I left the Xurons alone after finding my hard wire cutters. And the tie bars will wait til later. Thanks again. Paul

Hi, just a quick question to do with the 2mm Association sample kit. I'm currently building this as my first real attempt (I did try the Bryn / Stephen Harris group build ages ago but this looks a little bit safer before I go back and attempt those again) and I've come across a very slight problem, though I suspect it may have more to do with the instructions. I've built the plastic body (2-501) and as per instructions added the buffers (step 6 - Plastic Body Kit Assembly). For the chassis, (2-353A) I've also soldered the top hat bearings in, added the bufferbeam strengtheners and it all runs true and square (I'm quite amazed to be honest). However, the shanks of the buffers that protrude through the bufferbeams prevent me attaching the body to the chassis (step 8 ) Indeed it looks from the gaps in the strengtheners as though I should have fitted the buffers last. It's no big deal, I'll try and trim them in situ (another question, would my xuron track cutters be suitable for trimming the buffer shanks?). Anyway, I was just wondering if it was my mistake, the instructions or both? Oh, and another question, I intend to build it as unfitted so I don't need the tie bar (if my research is anything to go by) but I forgot and left it on. Is it best practise to trim this off beforehand, or later on in the build as it may help strengthen the chassis during the construction. It is an excellent learning process in problem solving, btw. Paul

Looking good. I've a real soft spot for this area too, in fact I've part of the Ffrith branch (Coed Talon to Padewood freight only) as my back garden! I've long mused about re-creating Coed Talon down to Coppas sidings. One day perhaps.. Apparently from the road you can still see the ditch which is the last remains of this canal.. http://tinyurl.com/bur3djz Paul

Interesting idea about leaving the sides open to save costs. I've got a rebodied SSA in 2mm to get printed, and I'm liking this idea though the savings in 2mm are nothing compared to what you'll save in 7mm. Thanks Paul

Picked up one today and they were flying off the shelf like you wouldn't believe. I'd get one quick. And the model is fantastic, with a 6 pin socket btw. Paul

Derelict Crop Wagon (2009)

Now that really adds so much to the authenticity of it. For the cost, I'd be happy to offset the price with how good it looks, and it certainly looks the business. Will you spray it or brush paint it? I would think an airbrush would give you a thinner coat allowing this detail to show through better. Paul

I'm another one who prefers the journey rather than the arrival at a destination. Being railway modellers and not railway passengers, I'm sure we can all appreciate it's about how you get there, not where you end up that makes this hobby and the people in it what it is. Paul

In a field somewhere..

Have you tried asking the websites and manufacturers concerned? It's really the only way to know for sure, and the only way to get permission. Paul

Sorry for the late reply I didn't get any notification I decided I wasn't happy with the colour of BR Blue, so I stripped the paint off and during the toothbrush scrubbing phase I damaged the underframe. I'll get a shot from underneath when it's repaired. Paul

This is looking really good, it's making me look at the Ian Stoates kit though I promised my self to finish all the other kite before getting more. And don't be too down on the speed you work, I think you actually work a lot faster than me. Paul

Here's a few ideas http://scenicedandundecided.net/animation.htm But most of all, this.. and yes, it's 1:160 scale. Paul

Hi, I built this recently too, nice and easy to put together. I'd agree about the instructions though, and I used reference photos to be sure. What are you going to use for transfers? Paul

Hi David, You're in the best company at work to answer this question . One pet project I've got ticking over is a tool to take a fully textured 3d model and interactively unfold it to a single plane in order to print it and assembly it. There are lots of tools that'll do this in texture space (UV space) but very few that'll do this in 3D space. So for the case of your hipped roof, one could model it in 3D and discreetly unwrap (or develop) it to a 2D plane without any calculations. One thing that's similar is this pepakura, which is a standalone app that pretty much does what I'm after, though I've not used it before it does seem quite a bit of fun and quite cheap for what it is too.