57xx

The Fruit D has it's top coat of brown now, I'm pleased with how it has come out. Just need to get all the lowers painted black next and then find my HRMS sheet of transfers

Thought I'd written a response to this, I remember looking that up after you posted. I suspect it will be similar to the Valejjo one, sounds it from the description.

I did wonder after posting if it might be a bit of an obscure reference.

Shergar?

Whereabouts on this does he hit Piastri before Stroll ploughed in to him?

I was thinking that the other day when looking at some pictures, that along with the representation of the hangers and linkages.

Only just caught up with the Japan race last night. I found out the C5 are now only keeping the catch up program on for 7 days, so I missed out on the quali program. It's nice to see the only time they focus on the RBS is at the very beginning and very end. At least we can get to see what's happening mid pack. I love Suzaka, one of my favourite tracks (driving it in F1 games is fantastic) but watching it this time round didn't seem to have the oomph that it used to have.

I didn't know I needed any Fishbelly bogies, so imagine my surprise when a pair fell in to my basket along with a couple of pairs of American bogies. Now I need to start combing the books to see what I can put them under!

As someone who pushed for this 5 years ago, I had better put my money where my mouth is! Well done Kernow, hopefully a good decision for you, it certainly is for those of use who can find a use for them on other projects.

You have a wonky knob.

I've found Nairnshire Modelling Supplies to be good for brass rod. They do more than currently listed on their ebay shop as I've had 0.5, 0.6 and 0.7mm off them. They only showing down to 0.3mm at the moment so not sure if they do 0.2mm, might be worth asking. The proprietor has always been good in communications I've had with him. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=2010rowantree634&store_cat=15858748010&store_name=nairnshiremodellingsupplies&_oac=1&_nkw=wire

Indeed, the whole thing looks to have some kind of reverse perspective going on.

Edit. Damn tablet won't let me edit properly. Or are they garden cloches?

It depends on the stock. These little loft extensions have velux windows 😆

To answer the other bit in your post, if you want some grey wagons, you should be looking at some unfitted Minks or vans from other constituents. If you like kits, there are plenty of LMS, LNER and the odd Southern one from Ratio/Parkside and Cambrian.

How many do you want? 😂

However much the Nigerian Prince/Foreign Minister/ Treasury officer is offering, I'll double it, just send me the cash instead.

Any team with half a sense of decency wouldn't touch him with a barge pole. That's him off to RB then. (jk)

I used the PP white enamel primer as specced on their site. I used to religiously use Halfords rattle cans but they are not very cost effective and quite wasteful. Coverage of enamel top coats on them was always good. Once my current stock is gone, no more will be bought. This is also one of the reasons for having a play with the Vallejo acrylic primers.

There is also @GrahamT on this forum.

Yeah, when I was doing a couple of LMS vans in LMS bauxite, I followed the Phoenix Precision advice to use white undercoat (their site suggests all their paint is formulated for a white undercoat (or I've misread it)). Never again! Coverage was a nightmare, it took about 3 sessions to get something passing muster.

Maybe the middle one was done by an apprentice. As well as poor letter spacing on most of the words and a missing letter, the letter styles differ in several places. Actually, on closer inspection, I think all 3 were lettered by different people.

Actually, I should correct that - the black is the first undercoat. That was left a week to dry properly, then a second undercoat went on, this time red oxide from the ubiquitous Halfords rattle can, sprayed lightly with a slight downward angle. This has left the crevice's in the woodwork looking darker. Whether this will show up as a shading effect after the dark brown top coat, who knows. I had also done a test with on and old scrapper wagon, putting the freight brown directly on the black Vallejo primer. Whilst the black primer worked great as a base for the GWR freight grey on the CC7, I wasn't overly pleased with the result of the brown over it, hence opting for the red oxide as a better base colour. The roof has also had a mist of dirt sprayed on it. It won't get weathered too much as these were built starting in 1939, right at the tail end of my timeframe.

Yes, absolutely, the black is just undercoat. I have some Precision "GWR Freight Van Brown" to go over the top of it.

3 years after posting this, a bit more progress was made on the D299! There was some talk of Vallejo primers in another thread (I think Neal's Henley on Thames) and what colours they came in. Remembering I had some in Dunkelgelb (German dark yellow for a Panther tank kit I have) I thought it might make a good experiment to use for a heavily weathered wagon. For my late 1930's era, what better than to use an old Midland wagon for this. For anyone wonder what colour Dunkelgelb is, this is Vallejo's take: Whilst the airbrush was out, the Fruit D got an undercoat and had the roof painted.