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ebbwdent

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Posts posted by ebbwdent

  1. Just had a look at the pics on ehattons. Looks a nice model, but my attention is drawn to the headcode boxes, specifically the light behind them. It looks very similar to that in the Clayton, which is truly awful. Lets hope it they're toned it down since.

  2. Just fitted my new chassis. I take my hat off to those who fitted more than one in an evening! Here's my instructions.

     

    1 - Use a polybag to take the old chassis apart

    2 - Those of you who've already taken the old chassis apart can skip this bit because you'll have already lost:

    a) the buffer retaining clip

    B) the spring

    c) both

    3 - don't even bother to examine the Axminster for the bits that ping off

    4 - carefully examine the old and new chassis - marvel at how they look identical

    5 - unsolder the body from the old chassis

    6 - solder the new chassis

    7 - realise you haven't fitted the headcodes

    8 - spend 20 minutes trying to fit them

    9 - unsolder the new chassis

    10 - fit headcodes

    11 - resolder the new chassis - those little tiny wires get very hot don't they?

    12 - insert chip - nearly there!

    13 - fit body on

    14 - find the cab interior

    15 - take body off

    16 - fit cab interior

    17 - fit body

    18 - test run

    19 - that headcode light is rather bright isn't it?

    20 - take body off

    21 - remove headcode light and dim it

    22 - see point 8

     

    GOOD LUCK!

     

    FTR, runs ok. Not as quiet as a Hymek or 33, but generally smooth and very good at slow speed

  3. Yes thats exactly how the Ribble cement version should look.

     

    http://www.ehattons.....aspx?SID=22784

     

    http://www.railblue....Depth/D8568.htm

     

    I'm very surprised the dealer was horrified, I'd have thought he'd have known what his stock looked like.

     

    Thanks for clearing this up and the link. The link picture shows exactly what they look like. He's never stocked the Ribble Cement version, so it was all rather a suprise to him. I wonder if the 'green' version he ordered was the Ribble Cement and not the BR Green he intended. Still, mine was blue, so i'm not too concernedB)B)

  4. Picked up mine today and as per D6975, ran fine, albeit a little noisy. I await to see how it runs in. On the matter of "green overspray", my dealer was horrified to unwrap the bubble wrap and see this, having assumed that all the chassis' would be black. It isn't an overspray - they are green, full stop. In fact, a little bit of detailing has been picked out in black. Must say, they look very odd. This is how the Ribble Cement is meant to look is it?

  5. I think Paul's point was that after the long wait with the Clayton in the 'stored unservicable' pool, there is an expectation that Heljan would get it right. Maybe thay have, maybe they haven't, but the very fact that we're having this debate rather underlines the uncertainty that people have about this particular model. The reason that i'm wondering if mine will work (find out tommorrow), is that i'm quite sure Heljan put a great deal of R&D into the model only for it to fail spectacularly. Nowhere have i read the definitive reason for why they fail and as usual, these forums are full of opinions, not facts; some more voiciferous than others. Until that changes, i'll have my reservations about the Clayton. Hope that clears things up.

  6. 1st one ran at a scale speed of 5mph and died after 5 yards

     

    2nd one ran at a scale speed of 10mph and died after 10 yards

     

     

     

    Paul

     

     

    ?maybe you need to run them at a scale speed of 90000mph to get your worth from them? But i digress. I think your comments sum up a lot of what us '1st batchers' are wondering. You're right, it doesn't look a good sign

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