Jump to content
 

dj_crisp

Members
  • Posts

    1,537
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dj_crisp

  1. I'm quite happy to mix both Bachmann and Accurascale in a rake as the grey is probably in the range of natural variability. There's a really nice shot of Blue/Grey aircon on the thread below which Simon shared when I asked about MK2ds on the Mule as I'm planning on converting a Mk2f to a Mk2d one day. As for precision paint.... I guess it depends which one ;) I've got a tin of precision later rail grey and that looks a good match for Bachmanns DMUs so should be similar to their Mk2f. Personally I really like Bachmanns blue and the Accurascale looks a very good match. I've tried many blues and Rainbow Railways is the only paint that matches Bachmann.
  2. One other thing I noticed in my first attempt at converting these to EM using original wheelsets is there's no fixed position of the wheel to fit onto the axle (B2B is ok and set at the width of the plastic isolating axle). So its down to how reliably the factory can set this dimension which could affect the overall axle length. The only one I checked came out at 25.5mm (I think) and I definitely noticed some coaches having more slop than others so could be axle length varies...?
  3. And hopefully some Accurascale Mk2as as well :) My MK2Bs are now all running nicely in EM thanks to the suggestion to bend the electrical tab back and use Black Beetle/DCC concepts 12mm wheels with a smidge taken off the pin points. They also now have less slop and line up very nicely with my Bachmann Mk2fs. So I'm alot happier now with just brakes left to align :) One thing I noticed on mine is some of the bogies arrived slightly over tightened so were stiff to rotate. I'm not sure if that info helps with problems going round curves or not? A simple quarter turn to loosen has helped.
  4. That is brilliant. Many thanks for your help! I best get on with having a bash at modelling it :)
  5. The wheelsets are really easy to take out and you shouldn't damage the brakes by doing so. I've removed all of my brakes and most are glued in really well but some have just fallen out when the glue missed. Again easy to fix. The only bit I've knocked off myself is the cross link thingy (not sure what to call it but it sits at 90 degrees to the springs) and be careful around the bogie steps. If you share some photos I'm sure somewhere here can also help.
  6. A quick question.... While looking at Waterloo to Exeter Class 50/33 hauled services I often see what i think is a Mk2d FK in blue/grey amongst a NSE Mk2a/b/c rake. First question is it a Mk2d and i don't suppose anyone knows it's number? (I know of 13575 which appeared in NSE so could be that one in an earlier guise). Thanks Will
  7. Thanks Chris. A really good idea that a quick bodge of bending the electrical contacts would work. I'm going to try the same technique as my attempts aren't great. I assume the contacts have only been designed as contacts and don't prevent body rocking?
  8. Interesting... although I don't follow what you've done. I'd be interested in seeing how you've got it working :)
  9. Some very nicely modelled Mk2a's! On their own what youve done looks smashing but I agree next to the Mk2b you really spot their errors. I always thought they got the length OK as Guy says the MK2a is shorter than the 2b/c The 2b really is a great coach detail wise! They sit well with my Bachmann MK2f's body/roof wise and I'm really happy with that. Personally I'm struggling with the Mk2b when it comes to converting them to EM. I've got my MK2fs bang on first time by changing out the wheels for RP25-88 using the original pin point axles. With a slightly wider axle setting than OO I've managed to reduce any slop so they sit at 49.5mm. I can't do that with the MK2b though as it has a 1.5mm axle! And I'm finding the Accurascale axle had loads of slop and my set of coaches each has varying ride heights by 1mm or so and can vary at each end. I think its due to the play allowed by using a shorter than standard axle width which does allow the model to run very freely. I've ended up drifting out the Accurascale wheel with a wider axle width setting as a temporary solution which kind of works with less slop but has a deeper flange so catches on my trackwork. I dont have a problem with this as I'm yet to find a RTR wheel that works well. I just wish there was an easier option to replace them like with the mk2f. One to solve for the future. So for me I prefer Bachmanns less detailed bogie! (And way prefer a DCC setup without a wand).
  10. Brilliant and thanks. Wow that is alot of grease on both of them! I was wondering if Heljan had sneaked in a smaller wheel or Bachmann had done an oversize one but both are a good size. (my goto 47 wheel for EM conversion is Ultrascale 15mm which looks ok for both.) I always find adding grooves difficult in plastic and I hope your attempts go OK. Cheers Will
  11. An excellent comparison and really interesting. It's confirmed to me that the Heljan body looks too tall and thin at the front. I've always found the duff to be a rather deceptive shape in that the body is quite high Vs the chassis which the Bachmann one captures better whereas Heljans looks a bit overweight. But its really interesting that it sounds like Bachmanns too high.... im going to try and find some measurements and have a look at mine. Do you know if they've been fitted with the same wheel sizes? Thanks
  12. I've got a set of the seats (for something completely different) and they look pretty good to me.
  13. If it helps my notes for mk2s are they should be 49.5mm to top of roof (excluding vents) and 41.7mm over guttering. Mk1s are also pretty much identical and obviously in reality ride heights would vary slightly. I've got a Bachmann MK2f set up at 49.5mm height so will be able to check the MK2b when I've converted to EM. I dont think there'll be any issues though as my very unscientific first glance the Mk2f and Mk2b looked ok together so I'm expecting the Mk2b ride height to be ok. I have to measure up the Bachmann mk2a but when I looked at them a long time ago I seem to remember they looked a little low but thinking it's the guttering being too low that could be tricking my eye. I think I'm seeing that in the photos on the thread here.
  14. Have a browse on flickr as I reckon they can be any shade...!
  15. Personally I'm not as sold on the fit of the roofs as they were a bit variable across the samples I saw at ally pally. Also the body fit needs some work but there's plenty of time to fine tune for the production samples
  16. Or just buy a Bachmann 47 with significantly less issues that are easier to resolve. Heljan have produced some really good models over time... I just don't agree this is one of them.
  17. I pretty much agree but also accepting that not everything on a locomotive will be able to scale down. No excuses when it comes to basic shape. Its funny that models I know were created from scans still exhibit errors etc. And ultimately its down to the CAD designer who puts it all together... you can see the ones that are outsourced or have a lack of time as some obvious errors creep in Vs those done by a passionate designer with knowledge of the prototype. I'm not sure where this 47 sits ;)
  18. Aaah the fun of paint matching yellow. I've kind of given up using yellows out of a tin these days and mix my own. Helps with some variety as each time they're different! I had a tin of precision pre-84 yellow which was a perfect match for Bachmann yellows on post 84 stock. A second tin now no longer matches and is more lemony. Their post 84 (& railmatch) didn't match and looks more orange so I now mix my own as a combo of pre n post 84s. When I was doing my pair of 70s bubbles I really noticed all photos of my 122 seemed lighter than the 121 despite being from the same period and similar repainting times.... But then again I found photos of the 122 freshly painted where the shade of yellow is closer to post 84 than pre. Weather conditions and camera trickery really makes it a hard call as to what looks right. So I've gone with a lighter shade on the 122 below Vs the 121. Not sure if it's right or not but I like the difference! My photo is on a sunny day so even this looks a tad more orange than say a cloudy day today. (I wasn't very scientific seeing as I was batch spraying so I started out with roughly 90:10 pre 84 Vs post 84 in the mix for the 122... then kept adding post 84 to the mix till I finished on some 90s DMUs 😀) Rightly or wrongly I don't get on with the lemon yellows straight out of the tin.... but they're probably totally accurate Vs the paint spec!
  19. Thanks for sharing the photos. Really useful. I'd be interested in a side on shot next to a Bachmann Mk1 for both models if you have them.
  20. Halfords grey is definitely the smoothest of theirs.... I really don't get on with their white which always seem grainy to me. My current favourite is Tamiya fine white aerosol. Seems to me to give the best coverage... dries hard and well for sanding. And has the bonus of being white do I find it easier to spray over!
  21. Yeah.... just don't put a ruler along those stripes. All of mine have a bend.... Maybe it's prototypical 😀
  22. The thing with this livery is weather conditions really impacts how vivid it looks... and it doesn't age well!
  23. Always a good idea to check out flickr IMO Not my photos but u can easily find them by searching by numbers You can never really tell on photos as I always find it tricky to capture the colours on my models but on face value I'd say the prototype is different to both but is obviously quite worn. I wouldn't worry about roof colours as weathering will sort that. Infact I try really hard to not have identical colours or weathering on my stock as they're always subtly different. I've spent some time pondering the roof shape between the 2a and 2b as that's the biggest difference that sticks out for me
  24. Thanks! I'm hoping to keep the pickups. When I did my Bachmann DMUs it was really easy to remove the wheel from the axle and then use a live DCC concepts wheel instead as the axles were 2mm. Not sure I can here so I think the only option is to open the insulated axle to 2mm.
  25. Hey Accurascale! Thanks for sending through some rather nice coaches. I'm looking forward to sizing them out and seeing how they run... although seeing as I model in EM I'm not so sure it's that easy? Do you have any tips on how to convert to EM or P4? Width looks ok and I'm hoping that the pickup doesn't get in the way, and I can see that the brake linkage is all set for OO so that needs to be removed. The biggest problem I think is the usage of a 1.5mm axle so the pinpoints look different to a 2mm standard axle. Do you know if a standard axle pinpoint would work if I drilled out the plastic axle to fit a chopped in half 2mm axle? Thanks Will
×
×
  • Create New...