5050

I haven't even got one on mine! Mind you, it never goes far enough to need any water.........................

A long one piece 'skate' generally means it was made for stud contact but will/should/might work on 3-rail as well. I think that is a standard Stewart Reidpath mechanism which might have been fitted to all manner of 0-6-0 locos - including outside cylinder ones hence the extended crank pin. Conversion to 2-rail would not be easy and its originality would be lost. More desirable as is IMHO. My body seems to be 100% lead and is very soft, easily damaged by even quite innocuous knocks when on the workbench hence its very 'distressed patina'. I think that even a coat of paint will be harder!

Do you have any photos of the chassis? 'Old Skool' commercial running gear always fascinates me - but then I'm easily pleased....

I used a LoadHauler Compact with a larger Mashima sitting horizontally . However, this was in P4 so I had a bit more room to play with. I cut the cast weight about to get it to fit with the motor in place. The tender is also used to collect current and its design adds weight to the rear of the loco for extra adhesion. See here - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/156836-doing-a-dean/#comment-4062027

Hello everybody! Yes, I'm still here and workingon this (occasionally rather frustrating!) project. So, get comfortable, make a brew with some McVities (other brands are available) suggestive biscuits and read on. As its been a few weeks since I posted here I'm not sure how far I got but here goes! The chassis was solderd together using some Alan Gibson P4 spacers which are 15mm wide. My assembly 'jigs' are 14.5mm so I needed to pack them out slightly. The compensated axle holes were slotted out to fit hornguides from Perseverance with Branchlines axleboxes. The fixed axle was treated to my usual brass tube and wire technique so it can be removed during construction. Coupling rods were soldered up from a set of Alan Gibson Universal ones. The kit ones were very flimsy and didn't have the joint represented in the etching. Hornguides were soldered in place using a set of original Perseverance jigs. Notch markings can be seen on the edges of the bearings and hornguides to ensure they always match up and orientate the same way. I had to rub these down on emery later to allow side play in the centre and front axles. Without doing this the wheels would not have fitted! The fixed axle bearings were filed so that there was a minimum of sideplay to ensure the gears meshed OK. A close up of the axlebox and hornguide markings so that they always go back in the same place and orientation. The compensation beam was fitted but not as yet secured. A pair of firebox sides was made from some scrap surplus etchings from an old kit. A spacer was also fitted for reinforcement as the sides are half etched and very thin. Wheels mounted on axles and trial fitted. As there was insufficient depth to solder in a spacer for attaching a keeper plate for the wheels I attached a keeper to the underside of the compensating beam assembly. It is screwed into a small piece of 1/16" brass soldered to the bottom of the beam. I found a piece of scrap etching from the Perseverance hornguide etch which was a perfect fit. Very apt! Sections of small brass angle were soldered to the inside of the tops of the frame sides to support strips of thin copperclad sleeper strip for attaching pickup wires. The copperclad was Araldited in place and the 0.3mm nickel silver wire pickups soldered on to bear on the tops of the wheels. The frames are not deep enough to fit a spacer for bottom pickups. The thick wire with insulation is a torque retainer to prevent the motor from rotating under power. The leads to the motor will be shortened for the final assembly. the eagle-eyed may notice that the motor has been changed for one without a flywheel. The original didn't seem to like working when under power in the chassis. The front spacer was drilled a hole for an 8BA fixing screw to fit into an already tapped hole in the body casting. The bottom photo shows the brake hangers attached. A trial fit into the body prior to rather a lot of fettling to rods and crankpin bearings. I generally drill my rods to 1.5mm for AG bearings and give them a gentle reaming for a nice fit prior to final assembly. The latest pack of AG bearings and crankpins I opened seem to be 1.6mm diameter so I needed to run a suitable size drill through again and even ream a bit more to get a good fit. I have to say that the DS10 motor and Romford gearing is nowhere near as smooth and efficient as a modern can and High Level box but it does work and may improve with running. I had to carve quite a bit of lead away in places to get better clearance and fit. This was done mainly with a small sharp chisel, smoothed off with the edge of a steel ruler to get a flat surface. Subsequent to this photo the inside of the front splashers have been relieved of a fair bit of material to ensure a good clearance for the front wheel pickup wires. Next job is to paint the chassis and then get on with detailing the body a bit. I still need to get steps and tank fillers which I can possibly obtain from SE Finecast from their G6 kit. Hope your tea hasn't gone cold after reading this lot!

Book ordered with James, in the post tomorrow - along with No. 10 in the British Railways First 25 Years series. I bought No. 11 before Christmas as it is based on North Wales and Chester, my old stamping ground. I half expected to see myself in some of the photos! No. 10 is Shrewsbury and Mid Wales I believe so also an area well known to me. When I was 'reading' No. 11 I had my old Ian Allan Combine (1957) with me and I reckon I must have seen at least 75% of the locos illustrated! As you say, James does pack books well. He sent the 2 books in separate packages as the individual price of 2 posted was less than if they had been packed and posted as one package. Where's the logic in that! Although I suppose that the words 'logic' and 'GPO' (or any other official body!) aren't necessarily compatible in the same sentence. Me, cynical? Never....................................

OMG, summat else ter spend me hard earned beer vouchers on! Not seen this before, must get onto James at Bill Hudson Books to see if he has one. Can't resisit a good industrials book!

The books arrived a couple of days later, excellent service. Trouble is that Mrs 5050 appropriated them, muttering somethin g about there being a 'special day' coming soon. Well, my birthday arrived - no books. Christmas arrived - no books. Boxing day - "Oh, your books? They're in the wardrobe in the spare bedroom". You just can't get the staff these days......................... Now I've had a read through it I echo all the comments above, an excellent tome. I just wish I'd made the effort to get around the railways a bit more back in the late 60's and 70's.

Lovely Sam. How did you make the crank axle? I bet it will travel a lot faster than the real one!

It certainly is a bit battered has some patina and, some might say, perhaps a bit to far gone. However, being lead, it can be 'massaged' back into shape in some ways. What that shape might eventually be is another question! As and when (if!) it gets finished and on public display (if ever!) and anyone comments on its appearance or provenance in a negative way then the reply will be short and not very sweet

My usual daily transport to school was by Bedford OB's (with the occasional Crosville Bristol if I missed the usual) operated by 2 local companies, Williams and Phillips. These had 'normal' seats but there was another local company that operated on the other side of Wrexham that had Bedfords with utility bodies with the slatted seats. I used to see them in the bus station and, even then, was glad I didn't have to use them. Luckily for those that did they were only used on short local routes. Regarding the low bridge double deckers with the sunken footwell and long seats, I HATED having to use the top deck on these when the lower deck was full, especially if I was pushed into the end by the window by adults. Trying to get out was a nightmare and I missed my stop a couple of times. The cigarette smog was diabolical too!

Following on from Barclay's thread on how he transformed his SR body into a 'Hudswell Clark' industrial, I was tempted into doing something similar to mine. I acquired the body at Shipley exhibition a few years ago from a box of previously abused owned bits and pieces along with Graham Farish Black 5 and Merchant Navy bodies. I was told that if they didn't sell they would be skipped - so I had to save them. For those who don't know, SR were pioneers in 'small scale' railway modelling (ie, smaller than O gauge) in the 30's, 40's and early 50's. They manufactured mechanisms and bodies in cast lead and the 0-6-0 tank was one of them. It is basically a generic 0-6-0T but, to me, it has a strong flavour of LSWR G6 class. SR were, I think, an early proponent of HO gauge rather than OO and so this body seems to be a little small for OO which helps in its pretending to be a possible industrial loco. Being solid lead it is rather heavy and should do well in the haulage stakes. Not that I'll ever have a layout large enough to test it to the ultimate! Barclay's thread here - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/159604-hawthorn-leslie-0-6-0t-more-or-less/page/2/ Doing this in P4 (and using some of the items I've had 'in stock' for years) is a bit of light relief from following an actual prototype. Some of the parts used are a bit 'blacksmith technology' compared to current thinking but it all adds to the sense of making the proverbial silk purse etc. Once completed (well, if it gets that far....) it will represent the kind of loco that could have been found on an extensive industrial system which incorporated some 'main line' elements (eg Pensnett Railway) or even a light railway. Here are the basic elements of the build. The chassis is a TMD etch acquired in a bin of etches at a show. It is for an Irish prototype, the overall length of the frames and wheelbase is a very good fit. Wheels are some Alan Gibson 4'7.5" Pannier Tank wheels and the motor (and here is the 'blacksmith' part) is a DS10 with an etched 'gearbox' and 50:1 gears. It has a flywheel fitted and, on initial test, ran very smoothly. I'll give it a good clean before final fitting. Boiler fittings are from my 'stash' of parts that have accumulated over the years. From whence they came and what they are I don't really know (or even care TBH) as they seem to fit OK and be in proportion to the body. To reach the correct buffer height I will need to file off 1 - 1.5mm from the top edge of the side frames. Since taking the above photos I found a cab roof in The Stash which, in my opinion anyway, will enhance the rather bland cab's appearance. The smokebox door will be fitted with a wheel fastener rather than handles and I will need to source (or make) steps and tank fillers. The casting has a large area of solid lead each end behind the buffer beams. This needs removing/reducing to allow the new chassis to fit. Barclay dremelled his away with a large burr - which I didn't have - so I cut my excess away with a combination of sharpened jewellers screwdriver and small chisels. Whether or not I will be able to use the chassis attachment screwholes I am yet to find out. This will depend on the frame spacers I am able to use from the varied collection in The Stash. The next exciting installment will possibly be the filing of the sideframes and the assembly of the basic chassis. Don't go away! Well, not to far anyway........................

They're louvres which is what makes me think it is intended to represent an IC powered rather than steam loco. Thanks for all your ideas so far - but I'm still none the wiser!

I would - for a GOOD fantasy................................

Could it also be a Crosville bus? I've got a selection of the EFE etc. Crosville models. I used Crossie buses a lot when I were a lad.

You're right, very observant of you. Just trying to keep you on your toes.................. I sit back, awaiting all the erudite answers

Some time ago I acquired this nicely scratch built Nickel Silver body from the estate of a deceased club member - but I'm not sure what it is actually supposed to represent. It could be completely freelance or some obscure actual prototype. Given the louvres on the 'bonnet' end I'm supposing it could be powered by an internal combustion engine although a grill would be more common. It has a slight 'flavour' of Sentinel about it or even the Atkinson-Walker loco, both of which are steam powered. In due course I may have a go at getting it working, probably with one of the High Level 4-wheel drive units but it would be nice to be able to know if it has a prototype. Please submit your ideas on its possible parentage

Yes, I'm still here and adding to the thread. Problem is I've been having some medical treatment that has meant that for roughly 2 weeks out of 3 I've been very wary of picking up a scalpel or soldering iron in case I did sometime nasty to myself! Hopefully this is now in the past and I can get on with some more important aspects of my life such as finishing this little blighter! Here is a photo of the keeper/pickup plate with wires attached and the brakes fitted. And here one of the creature on its legs wheels with brakes attached. I soldered the etched brakes in 'the flat' as it was much easier to do this and then bend them down to fit. Trouble is they probably will now get in the way of the sandpipes. I think brakes are slightly moer important than sanding gear though. Putting the body on and running it on the test plank shows that it will be reasonably good runner - but it does seem a bit noisy compared with some of the High Level gearboxes i've used. I suppose I could always say it is fitted with a sound chip................................

I said above that my impression is that it could be based on an LSWR G6 loco. I think SR probably supplied it in a selection of liveries, rather like Hornby did in the clockwork O gauge trainsets.

The view from the top is amazing. I well remember camping up there one Saturday night (probably 30 years ago at least!) when making a pilgrimage with my mate to the Severn Valley Gala Weekend. A beautiful evening, dusk closing in, bacon and egg on the stove, beer bottles opened - and a train way down in the vally going to Ludlow sounding as if it was only half a mile away. Wonderful

I meant to ask Mr Barclay what tool he used in the Dremel to cut away the excess behind the buffer beams to fit the chassis. I've got a fair selection of burrs and 'stones' but they're all a bit 'fine' possibly for such aggressive techniques!

Could be either. My 'layout bucket list' has both in it! A light railway with industrial connections or an extensive industrial railway with a 'main line'. Think Pensnett Railway. I've just been on the Wizard site and none of the steps float my boat sadly. I'll probably end up making some (with reference to Guy Williams I expect) along with the tank fillers although I've found a few here and there (AG, Dart Castings etc.) Did you stay with the SR cast-on fillers? Mine are a bit 'feeble' TBH. If I do get it built I would like to take it (eventually!!) to Scaleforum and try it on the test track with as much stock behind it as possible to see how good its haulage capabilities might be.

Before I start a new thread (Industrials or Kit and Scratch Building?) here's a couple of shots of the 'raw materials'. My body appears to be rather more 'distressed' than Barclay's, it must have had a hard life in various boxes of unwanted items over the years. I picked it up at the Shipley Show about 3/4 years ago along with a Graham Farish Black 5 body (up for grabs if anyone interested) and GF Merchant Navy - which has since gone to a new and appreciative home. I was told that if I didn't buy them they would go in a skip - so I had to, didn't I! The cost was nominal, basically a donation to the club funds I suppose. The chassis etch side frames (which include some nice brakegear and split coupling rods) will need approx. 1 - 1.5mm filing off the top edges and I will need to mill/saw/file/hack material away from the areas behind the buffer beams for the chassis to fit, similar to the way Barclay did on his. The TMD idea for compensation seems a bit odd to me and I will cut 6mm slots for hormblocks/axleboxes instead. The rear axle will be fixed (but removable as is my wont) fitted with the DS10 and gearbox. The gearbox looks almost Branchlines but I don't think it is. There were a lot of similar etched versions around in the 80's when I suspect this was 'created' originally. State of the Art at the time! I will strip this down for a good clean but it ran very nicely when I tested it with leads. The boiler fittings, smoke box door etc. seen above are shown below roughly placed in position. I think they are OK from a proportion aspect. Cab roof may well be filed flat and a brass/NS one made instead. The smokebox door is planned to have a wheel closure rather than handles (Wizard ex-Mainly Trains etches) and I will need to source tank fillers and steps in due course. Any advice on this? Keep a look out for the new thread - but not in the immediate future!

Even a P4 one. Remember the P4'ed Airfix Pug running round a plate BITD?

I've decided that my next project after the 48Ds will be powering and detailing my SR body. I have a set of etched NS 0-6-0 frames that I picked up in a remnants 'bin' at a show. Made by TMD they're probably for an Irish prototype but actually fit the body quite well. Some adaptation will be needed, mainly filing the height down a bit. Wheels will be a bit larger than other industrials. I'm intending to use a set of AG Pannier Tank wheels, 4'7" diameter which will fit quite well into the front splashers and avoid all the unpleasant cutting away of them away. From my 'stash' I have dug out a DS10 motor with flywheel already attached to a brass motor mount and gears (approx 50:1 I think) which seems to run very smoothly. Chimney, dome smokebox front, safety valves etc. all from my 'bits collection', chosen at (almost!) random for their fit and appearance. I'll start a thread once I get going with it - which may be a little while yet! BTW, I've thoiught that the SR body may well be based on an LSWR G6? Looks very similar to photos I've found.