simons9

Many thanks for coming back to me , yes I think the challenge the challenge I have with the train tech sc4 is it is triggered via Dcc , whereas the hm7000  uses Bluetooth . I was hoping the hm6010 would be able to switch the  train tech sc4 . Is there anyway of switching Dcc accessories from the hm7000 , otherwise I guess I need to go back to manual switches sadly 

Looking for a little guidance please . I have connect d a Dapol o gauge signal to a train tech sc4. I have also connected a hm6010 to the the hm7000z and am looking to connect the hm6010 to the train tech 4 . Question is am I over complicating this by using train tech 4 and could I just go from Dapol signal to Hm6010 ? The Dapol signal has red black power feed then 

brown stop

yellow common

orange proceed 

wondering which goes in A , which in C and which in B ?

hope makes sense many thanks 

Thank you for coming back to me , I just looked at hm6010 accessory but not really sure what this does ? Be great to know what hornbys  plans are given they gave a setting 😀

I’m not sure if this has been covered before, Apologies if so . I’m Running hm7000 really well on my ogauge layout . I have a Dapol signal with a Train tech  DCC controller . Works off the track but can I add Dcc accessories to the HM7000 controller on my IPad ? Can’t see anything in the app apart from accessories toolbar but can’t see how add accessories into this. Many thanks Simon 

Hi just saw this and have a similar setup and had a similar dilemma. 

i went for the Hornby hm7000 chips into my Dapol , lionheart and Heljan o gauge locos . The 21 pins give you full sound and I’m just experimenting with DCC uncoupling in the locos. 
You  get all the functionality and runs off an iPhone , or iPad , think android also available , dead easy to use 

this was relatively cheap as used a standard transformer . Appreciate the sounds are fairly generic compared to youchoos but is an alternative that works really well . Also have set track and my lion heart prairie works really well through it . I agree with the buffer locking but I have used longer 3 link couplings to combat this . Hope this helps I guess it’s how deadly accurate you want to be . 

Appreciate this is fairly old topic. I have standardised on all my Dapol and lion heart locos on Hornby HM7000 DCc 21 pin nexus which  has worked a treat . The old lion heart pannier had a previous version of adaptor so I bought a later Dapol one which was easy swap. 

Question is on Heljan 43xx would I have to unsolder and resolder all the connections if I use a Dapol , pretty sure that is answer and thought I’d check there isn’t an adapter . Also if anyone offers this service , thanks 

Hi ya thanks very much for replying , I guess as I’ve gone down Peco route I thought would. All be compatible 😂😂. I’m questioning now whether to stick with setrack points but spent a lot on them and the accompanying point motors . I guess I’ll have to re drill and re affix everything, every days a learning day 😂😂

Thanks for your reply , I did ask them if PL10’ would work but they said settracks needed the springs and motors to the side which goes against everything I’ve ever done , so was seeing if other have experience of motorising setrack points ? 

So I spoke to Peco and apparently you have to keep the spring in the point and they need to be motorised at one of the ends of the tie bars, apparently the twistlock instructions only apply to streamline and not setrack . Only problem is I’ve marked them out and drilled the centres  and  laid quite a bit . Before I rip it up and start again wondered if anyone had managed to do this using centre of the set track tie bar . Thanks for reading 

Finally wiring up layout , I have Peco setrack points I’m motorising from beneath with Peco twist lock point motors . I’ve removed the springs and drilled the tie in the centre but in switching the twist lock the point  blade doesn’t stay up against the check rail . All working ok electrically . Quick questions are 

1) do I need to keep the spring in place on the point blades? 

2) should the hole be In the centre?  

all the Peco literature describes above baseboard motorisation on the setrack points but can’t see how it’s aligned from beneath.

if anyone has done this , I’d  be really please to know how 😀 . 

Many thanks 

Simon 

Hi John thanks for your reply it will be an elongated L shape , there is a  work bench over to the right of the room out of shot  , so what you can see is the baseboards. Still deciding on  what to put on far side hence the mess, I’m thinking east street level crossing without a station.  😀

Finally finished extending house with custom built railway room. Modelling West  Bay using Hornby HM7000 in Dapol /Lionheart , all good,   and Heljan, mmm. 

West  Bay  was ballasted In Shingle from the beach , which I  believe is about 1.5mm in scale . Does anyone know of a source of aquarium gravel of this side , it’s a key feature to get right look n feel . Using woodland scenic underlay infilled with cork sheet in what will be the yard on the board below , excuse the mess ! 

Thanks for this I just posted under kit building, managed to lose the hex completely . I agree can only undo them twice, now stuck and having to use mini drill to gut a slot as it's completely jammed. Thought I'd finished the chassis and now going backwards

Cest la vie , all part of the fun,least it isn't only me

Cheers

Simon