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Knuckles

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  4. Knuckles
    It's been a while since I last posted about it yet the hardest bit is out the way.  Roof is crudely printed at 200 microns in PETG and needs some smoothing around the joins but I'm happy enough.  Overall impression once done I'm sure will be passable.
     
    Wals are 3mm plasticard with thin brick plastic card overlays and 3D printed lintels n arches. Beed to add circular vents in the triangles and also roof vents.  Roof needs more strutting, pillars, filler and other things.  Pleased so far.
     
    Strictly speaking laser cutting would be much better for the project yet it is an area I'm yet to venture into so doing what I can for now.  
     
     
     
     
     
    For extra pictures...
    https://mobile.twitter.com/KnucklesSCC/status/1248929713382477825
     

  10. Knuckles
    Not really a blog but didn't know where else to put it.
     
    Works fine, have no where to make a proper layout with it so would rather someone find use for it.
     
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lima-3f-0-gauge-LMS-Red/264503022398?hash=item3d959bd33e:g:~Q4AAOSwXVddqdWY
  12. Knuckles
    Took my time on this, too long actually.
     
    Hopefully it doesn't look crap, pretty pleased with the quality of finish.
     
    https://mobile.twitter.com/KnucklesSCC/status/1175409401265569799
     
    Overall progress is slow due to divided attension and lack of gumption but getting there.
     
    Happy to tick one off the list.
  16. Knuckles
    You'll notice the title changed from 1st entry slightly.  Going from the 1st RWS book I've often thought it to be Vicarstown but the maps say Tidmouth.  Anyway, forget that for now....
     
    There has been more progress on the mini layout but saving that until I start 3D printing the shed. Currently I'm still drawing them.

    Design point:

    1) - Illustrations never show vents but being realistic they would without doubt be there. I've put some in the center and also shorter versions for the front as I want them visually to be subtle. Putting whacking great big vents there completely destroys the look of the shed - I tried. I'm after us looking at this shed and 'seeing' the illustrations in the first book so visual deviations have been kept to a minimum.

    2) - Sky lights are in 3 parts not one strip. Side wall vents have louver type flaps as on Middleton's Illustrations. Dalby drew a '+' shaped window, either could be plausible.

    3) - Side doors for personnel added as seen in Middleton's illustrations.

    4) - Rear wall not added yet but will be eventually, have as removable.

    ---


    Thoughts please??

    What you think of the baby front vents? Don't want them to visually jarr.
     

    EDIT, Windows...

  17. Knuckles
    So, while I am busy 3D designing, 3D printing, building N gauge Norramby, and various other modelling projects on the desk my 4mm modelling itch has been getting unbearable.
    The loft layout although mostly planned still can't start due to more work that needs to be done, it's taking ages and I'm royally naffed off with it now.  Anyway, after seeing a few dioramas a couple of friends have been doing that don't take that much space up I decided to do one.
     
    It'll offer potential for a plug in scene later one day and if not then it'll operate as initially intended.  
    The concept is a simple photographic background for models as and when the get built although we can have engines rolling on and off shed for filming purposes but that's about it unless the end is plugged into the main layout one day.  As it is only 2x4' long it can be stored under the main layout frame work without taking too much room up.
     
    So I've opted to model Vicarstown Engine Sheds up until about 1928 when they were abandoned and a smaller shed erected for trains operating the car ferry service on Sodor.  Yes this is a Sudrian thing, feel free to click off the page.  The illustrations of said shed are wildly contradiction but they seem fairly consistent in the very first Railway Series book as re-illustrated by Clarence Reginald Dalby.  I haven't found a matching prototype yet but I am convinced once finished it'll look the part.
    So although I still haven’t decided if the main NWR layout is to be 00 or P4, this shed scene is a chance to try the Peco 00 Bullhead track.
    So the shed is likely to be 15” square as I want it.  The baseboard was nocked up in an hour and a half-ish.  Lines were drawn on for track centers and a calculator was used to find equidistance.
    Peco inspection/ash pits were used and they were built in less than 5 minutes each in most cases, timed it with a stop watch.  Painted and ashed and weathered with powders.  Currently they are too ashy but gunky enough to be installed, they will be repainted a  bit later when the ‘concrete’ floor is added.
    One was positioned before painting and drew around, two holes drilled in each corner and then jig-sawed.  Nice quick n easy.  Installed all 6 with PVA.
    Tracks were lined up, clipped to length with Xuron’s and the whole board painted with PVA.  Track positioned carefully and then several ballasts literally dumped on top, ‘Normon Solomon’ style.  It’s a method I have used before to good effect but it does depend on what you are doing, for some areas it isn’t the best method.
    A wall of lolly pop style sticks was added around the shed based lines for a physical perimeter to accept the PVA/Polyfiller (or plaster), Paint mix I often use.
    At this stage it needs to dry so It’ll have to wait until another day or so.  Ballast will be tidied, painted browny yellowy and then gunked on top with ash, black stuff and more muck.
    The shed itself I’m going to likely 3D print as a big project as scratch building structures bores the boat off me.
    Unrelated - Brought for £46 from Hattons with real coal added and Smiths Screw Couplings – my current set up as they are more easily compatible with dingham’s.  Being so cheap and having the older chassis I knew it was a risk but guess what?:  It’s a good ‘un!  Always wanted a B1 and so after all this time I have one.  Runs smooth both directions and slowly, well happy.



















    Hector is there to help me make sure the tracks align and roll through nicely, Good doggy!
    Ok, comments please!
     
     
  18. Knuckles

    NWR #6 'Percy'

    By Knuckles,

    I finished Percy!















     
    I will be making my own chassis for it as I want slightly bigger 14mm/ 3' 6" wheels (rather than 12mm / 3') and slower running so the Peckett W4 chassis it is mainly designed for I have just borrowed from my own Peckett W4, that's why I have not painted the wheels greener.  The #6 is a home made decal, not perfect but good enough.  I'm VERY happy!  Will get some faces sorted later as I like to use faces as well as smokebox doors.
     
    Email me at sparkshot082@gmail.com if you'd like this bodyshell or any of  the other variants for £34.89 + postage and packaging.  On Shapeways they are around £63 instead!
    I wonder how it'd look in a different livery?   
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  21. Knuckles
    Not done an update in ages on Norramby for a variety of reasons, one being the goods yard was holding 3D printed railway goods 148 times bigger than they should be but I digress.  Found some organisation now for those.
    The gutters and downpipes are a job I've been putting off as they are to be honest a bit of a bore for me to do but finally they are out the way.  The Kestrel down pipes were about 2mms fat in some areas,never seen a 1 foot fat down pipe before so a 0.7mm rod gives about the right scale.  Wall brackets are lumps of plastic glued on and then trimmed after. The wrap around part of the brackets don't exit, painted glue blobs will do for me. 2 foot rule etc.
     
    I've been 3D printing some terraces of my own design.  They are only roughly based on real ones taking various elements from photographs, nothing too exacting.  Most basic dimensions were taken from the Kestrel buildings but then tweaked to be more personalized.  They also longer with entries added.  Chimneys are yet to be drawn and printed.
     
    The surface in areas is a little rough as they were not the best prints in the world,printed on the Robox Dual so FFF 'snotting' type technology.  That said, the scabbyness gives that cheap run down smokey look I want so I'm happy enough with them.  The guttering on the new terraces are just stdips of card I cut and superglued in followed by super thin superglue lamination.
     
    Painting on the buildijgs is about 90% there, just some.details, touch ups and more door colours should be it really.
     
    I've also added more 3D printed walls (own design) wrapping around the goods yard.
     















     
    So, the layout is coming along but at a snails pace due to life in general.  At least the motion is forward.
    Any thoughts?
  22. Knuckles
    Video Description....


     
    Baby write up:
     
    Daddio ages ago gave me a fishing pellet thingummy, so I chemically blackened Dingham parts and bunged them in. A real boon it is.

     
    Considering I'd need to solder them I got a fresh brass one from the etch.

     
    Following David Thorp's modification I purposely went overboard and extended the length and width.
    It was a very quick nock up thus the rough uneven nature of it.

     
    Middle partly removed, needs more filing but good enough for the tests.

     
    The extended bar does the pushing on the inside of the coupling hook, that's the concept. Here is a super picture...

     

    So, current verdict.
     
    1) - It works. Nuff said. Tests were mostly with Smiths Screw Link and Standard Dinghams.
     
    2) - Shape needs to be a wee thinner and about 1mm longer, possible nominally triangularly shaped with the curved end.
     
    3) - Brake pipes can get in the way, yet not on all stock. A little re-shaping of the pipes or hooks will easily get around this.
     
    4) - These were tested on 2nd radius 00 curves and I only need a minimum of 34" if doing P4 not the extra silly 2nd radius. Ergo, it'll work better with more gentle curves.
     
    5) - I'd only need one 'Super Loop' at each end of a rake of coaches. The rest of the layout stock can have standard Dinghams, 3-Link, Instanter & Screw fitted.
     
    6) - Pig in poo.
     
    7) - Awaits chastisement!
  23. Knuckles
    As the title suggests really.
     
    I've been planning a few layouts for a while and the big dream layout I have not decided whether to do in 00 or P4.
     
    Initially I scrapped the P4 idea for this particular layout because the 'minimum'curve radius of 48" wouldn't fit.
    However, after spending several hours here and there reading posts on here and elsewhere it seems you CAN get a pacific or 9F around a 24-30" curve with a lot of side play and gauge widening.
     
    With that in mind I redesigned the plans.
    The big plan I now have MUST have a minimum radius of 34" other wise it is perfectly impossible. This isn't an issue of aesthetics but rather restricted space - the usual bane.
     
    So the requirements for the proposed big layout is 34" minimum radius, must be able to use a black 5 and a Gresley A1. That's it. I do not currently believe I have the skill to build them well enough, yet one day if I keep at it there is no reason I can't achieve it eventually.
     
    As I'm still pullijg my hair out whether to do this particular layout in 00 or P4 I decided to conduct some practical tests. In line with my way of thinking there is no calculagions, theory or algebra. Good luck to those who comprehend it.
     
    Using a set of radius curves I brought from the stores a few years back the tightest one was 120cm. A quick online converter reveals it to be a little over 35" radius. Considering I need a 34" curve minimum this is rather worrying.
     
    Using some C&L (underside moulding says K&L so it may be old) flexible track that is sometimes a wee t8ght to gauge I bent it to the curve.
     
    Now I believe the laser cut curves represent the center line to draw meaning the curve I stretched will be tighter.
     
    Other than the P4 Hymek and CoBo I have the tests were done with the rest of my current collection.
     
    1) - LB&SCR E2 as Thomas - Own SCC kit built compensated. Runs amazing.
     
    2) - Furness J1 - Own SCC Kit with a bit of play added. Runs good but teeniest bit jerky, barely noticble.
     
    3) - LB&SCR E2 chassis - South Eaat Finecast. I built it with Alan Gibson sprung hornblocks. Runs good but teeniest bit jerky, barely noticable.
     
    4) - 5700 Pannier as Duck - Bachmann model converted with Ultrascale drop in wheelsets. Runs well, could do with more reduction though.
     
    5) - 5700 Pannier. Bachmann Pannier with kit built chassis. Not built by me, runs well but not the smoothest of starts. Brought in a job lot.
     
    6) - 1400. Old Airfix or Dapol with propeller/cardon shaft. Not converted by me. Didn't run when brought in same aforementioned job lot. After some monking about I got it working. Runs pretty well considering age.
     
    So all these locomotives ran through the mystery radius in both directions (wheelbase considerations) at slow and fast speeds.
     
    Test 1 is green.
     
    Then I bent the mystery radius a bit more. All went through fine although the kit pannier would fall off sometimes in one direction.
     
    Test two mostly green with a shot of amber.
     
    So then I dug some stuff out my box. These....
     

     
    I THINK they are 0.2mm gauge widened although maybe 0.1mm? I'll get the track gauges out later and find out.
     
    Slid some rail through and made a test meter.
     
    Everything passed with this track at the first mystery radius.
     
    Test 3 green.
     
    Then I bent it into another mystery radius that looks HORRABLE! No idea what radius it is yet I am sure it is tighter than 34 inches. After smoothing the curve I managed to get all these locomotives to run through at all speeds in both directions.
     
    The Panniers & 1400 have their rear wheel to next wheel as a 34mm wheelbase.
     
    The Hornby Black 5 I have shares this measurement so in theory, considering the wheels are bigger if I build one one day it should go around a 34" curve easily providing it has the same sideplay these locomotives of the tests have. They were not measured but they range from basically 0 to 1mm.
     
    Pics. Look at that horrid tight curve!!
     

     

     
    I know full well tight curves are risky and not favoured but unless you fancy bunging me £300,000 or more I got no choice!
     
    This layout would very much like to build. 10-20 year projected time as a guess.
     
    Any comments or advice very much wanted. I know a box of well smoked pigs ears are likely waiting for me around the corner and avoiding them is desired!
     
    Also please forgive the typo'sas I typed all of this out on a 'phone and editing is awkward and risky. Will clean it later on PC.
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