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Anglian

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Posts posted by Anglian

  1. Ordered. It was a shame that the commissioned black E1 failed to secure enough orders to be viable – I hope this time it's a successful venture. Nice to have a bit of black to relieve the Marsh Umber.

    • Agree 2
  2. 5 hours ago, maico said:

     

    Esso 99 octane is E5 from 1st september.

     

    Texaco 97 octane seems one of the cheaper E5 options where I live in the SW

     

    That depends on where in the country you are. The pumps have been labelled as E5 for ages but that doesn't mean the fuel contains 5% ethanol. See Esso website:

    https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol


    As has been pointed out several times E5 petrol contains up to 5% ethanol. When I did some research into this a few years ago I recall that Shell 95 RON E5 had less ethanol in it than BP 95 RON E5.

     

    • Like 1
  3. Try Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99. It doesn't have any Ethanol in it except when sold in a few places (see Esso web site). My father and I run four cars that range from 28 years old to more recent. All run better on this zero ethanol petrol. There's a slight increase in economy and the overall performance is a bit better. However, in our older cars I think the absence of any ethanol is the key factor in making them smoother and more responsive. It's not available at all Esso petrol stations but where I fill-up it's only 3p a litre more than E10 95Ron, which is nothing when you consider the overall benefits. I've asked at other Esso stations if they will consider supplying it. I'm on a one man crusade to spread the word on this fuel (I don't work for Esso). Friends have switched over and are reporting that they sense there is a benefit in using it with smoother running engines that are a bit more lively.

     

    Shell claim up to a 4% increase in performance over their 95 Ron, when when using their premium fuel – V Power. I imagine the test figures would be the same for the Esso fuel.

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  4. 21 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

    Just a couple of points.

    Re the Make up Brushes; I once saw a layout where there was a beautifully soft brush or maybe a couple, over the tracks 'off stage' where every train would run eventually. I think it was after the FY Throat at one end IIRC? The bristles were so soft and did not catch anything (steam and diesel era) and such a soft touch from the bristles.

    Also, Vectis charge large amounts of commission and 30% to buyers + postage. I would seriously consider other outlets. There are a couple of other Auction houses that do Toys and Models at less commission.

     

    Sadly there are none of these engines that I would be able to use. Not even the SR ones. Sorry about that.

    Sincerely,

    Phil

     


    I have such a brush. It's over 60 years old. The brush was sold as a watercolour wash brush. I imagine they are still made.

    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  5. 1 hour ago, josephmarsh said:

    Thanks for your reply, If I can't get someone to build it then it will stay in the box, my hands wont keep still long enough to solder the parts if I could find out where they go.

    I know some one that could paint if for me but they don't have the skill to put it together, "Thats how far they got" really just part of the chassis.

    If anyone would like to contact me, I did include my email address in the last message, I usually can't find replys like this as I don't know where or when to look, Just luck I found this.

    Thanks for your help.

    Regards Joseph Marsh

     

    Joseph,

    You'll find any replies in the same thread where you placed your question. It's really is no more complex or mysterious than that.

    • Agree 1
  6. 5 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

    Thanks David,

     

    How does micro set differ from micro sol? I have the latter but not the former.

     

    Andy

     

    One has more strength than the other. I think it's Micro Sol in the bottle with red typography that is the stronger of the two. I only use it if I'm trying to get decals onto a compound curve otherwise I go for the less potent of the two.

    • Informative/Useful 1
  7. The best way to apply waterslide decals is over a gloss surface and then to use a decal solution such as MicroSol or before varnishing with acrylic matt. Any carrier film will disappear.

     

    The advantage of waterslide, as noted above, is that you can carefully nudge them into position. I see an awful lot of models where the numbers don't have an accurate baseline so the numbers appear to 'jump'. For some reason it's often the last number in the row that jumps the most. When the baseline is defined by numbers with a flat base edge, ie 1,2, 4, 7 then those with rounded bases ie 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 ,0 should sit very, very slightly lower. The rounded characters are very slightly larger. This is a visual compensation the font designer will employ to offset the optical illusion that occurs between circles and squares or rectangles.

    I have designed and had my own waterslide decals printed (for aviation modelling) and I tend to arrange the sets of numbers/letters I want on the computer so the baseline and character spacing is 100% correct, then the whole lot can be applied as one decal.

    • Agree 1
    • Informative/Useful 15
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  8. 8 minutes ago, Northmoor said:

    How does this compare to the other main lines of the Big Four?

    • GWR has been very commonly modelled but not many real locations, apart from a few either of Dawlish seawall or clearly based on it;
    • SR has seen a few, sometimes of the inner/outer suburban areas with 3rd rail.  Again, normally of fictitious locations;
    • LMS models tend to be of the Northern end of the WCML in Cumbria;
    • LNER, well I don't recall too many layouts based on the GEML.  Perhaps the OHLE* nearer the London end puts people off?

    *On the subject of OHLE, I remember a friend mentioning some years ago that "modern era" layouts seemed all too often to be based on "a non-electrified loop off the WCML in the Warrington area".


    There's Chiltern Green (CG) on the Midland. It makes the 'Greatest' list. I'm fascinated by the visual treat of a faster train overtaking a long goods train, where both travelling in the same direction on a four track section of mainline. There's something about it that captures the drama of the mainline better than a pair of passing trains. CG delivered this in bucket loads.

     

    • Like 3
    • Agree 1
  9. 36 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

    I have no idea, Archie.

     

    If they did, I'd imagine sales would be very low.

     

    Regards,

     

    Tony. 

     

    I can't find Tony in their online catalogue but I'm sure he still lives on in their digital archive. I imagine they would be willing to produce you one (or more), if Tony were to give his permission.

     

    They really are fabulous figures to paint since the detail is very sharply defined precisely to scale but more than that it's the wonderfully natural poses that the 3D digital technique captures that makes them so special.

    • Funny 1
  10. I'm unable to make out all the layouts listed in the magazine's Top100 so I can't tell for sure if a couple haven't made the cut. Both are large 7mm layouts, one influencing the other. At the time of their construction I'd regard both as marking significant milestones.

     

    The first being the Norris Layout, which at best had a loose sense of geography and as far as I've read didn't operate to any sort of timetable, yet it remains significant in my eyes at least.

     

    The second: Lonsdale by Neil Corner and team. I think this layout has pretty much existed under the wire. I rarely see it mentioned and I have seen precious few images of it. Whilst it depicts a very plausible 'might-have-been' the main station is based on Hellifield.

    • Like 1
    • Agree 1
  11. 17 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

    Tim,

     

    I know; it's one of the V2s. 

     

    I really should have deleted it, but I was in a rush to get it 'shot' and didn't have time to check the footage before it went to Howard for editing. It occurred at the 'V' of the point, and is most-annoying. Needless to say, I've subsequently tried it again (and again) and nothing but smooth passage is the result! All I can put it down to is that one of the loco's drivers is not 100% at right angles to its axle; just a twitch, no more. Thus, the driver's gone through the 'V' at its tightest point (a one in 360 chance?), causing the jolt. 

     

    It must also be remembered (though I'm not offering an excuse) is that LB's scenic-side pointwork is made to 'finescale' OO standards (an admitted misnomer), which means it will find an errant b-t-b. At least it didn't derail (if it had, I would have just scrapped the footage, of course), and it also shows (I hope) that all the other locos/stock are entirely compatible with the trackwork.

     

    That said, since I'm zealous (overly so?) about good running, the loco will be investigated.

     

    Regards,

     

    Tony. 


    Tony,

    It's good to read that it's a locomotive issue that you can resolve rather than being a track issue, as I'd wrongly assumed. Having seen first hand how well your locomotives perform that it hadn't even entered my mind that there could be the slightest chance of a problem arising with one of them.

    • Thanks 1
  12. 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

    I posted this moving footage earlier, but it disappeared. 

     

    Tony,

     

    I very much enjoy seeing all the footage of Little Bytham, of course including this latest offering.

     

    I noticed that one locomotive makes a slight jump on its way South – this can be seen at 5:55 in the time line. The platelayer might need to make an adjustment.

    When considering what makes for a 'great' layout I feel the originality of the overall layout concept plays some part in this. 

  13. I use Advanced Paints acid etch primer. It is one of the few that pass the fingernail scratch test Michael has detailed. I have come across a superb German made primer that forms an extremely robust chemical bond with metal but it has 'body' to it for filling surface imperfections and I feel that rules out its use on models.

    However, I have come to the conclusion that you must get the metal really throughly clean and totally degreased before painting. Having cleaned the metal surfaces you should only handle the model wearing powder free latex gloves so you don't contaminate the surface. I soak some pieces in vinegar to lightly etch the surface. This combined with acid etch primer gives a very strong bond.

     

    I have read that acid primers in spray cans have to be so weak to stop the can itself dissolving. However, this is a bit of a myth, since the acid only starts to etch as it dries. 

    • Informative/Useful 1
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