Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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which one did you use from the range offered think thats when I gave up looking in the past as looks like a test sheet is going to be huge and expensive
Nick
They are expensive once you've added VAT and postage on. Amongst other things I bought the 0.5 "Thins" https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/lt404-102-black-0-5mm.html . It is quite flexible though so it depends what job you want to do with it. If you are interested I can send you a small sample to try, it does cut nicely. I don't know what other people have used, the next order I will probably try the ADA signage at 0.8mm https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials/trolase-ada-signage/ls401-103-black-0-8mm.html
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Web searches seem to bring up on-line suppliers for etch/cutting machines and associatedsupplies, so sales of this material is probably only to trade. This material;
TroLase ADA Signage
As you have found this is the supplier for Trotec, https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials.html . They will sell to individuals as they sold me some sheets, although you will need to create an account to order stuff.
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The draw back of this very economical jig is that you cannot hang the coupling rods off the outer ends to ensure they match the wheel base of the chassis.
Gordon A
It's not a drawback because you don't need to do that anyway - earlier in the post I show how I set out the horn blocks in the frames with the coupling rods as guides. That is something you want to be doing before assembling the chassis. It's much easier if you do one step at a time rather than all at once on the chassis jig. Once you start putting the frames in the chassis jig you should already have set out the horn blocks at the right wheelbase.
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I'm tight. I was trying to find something simple that does the job for under 80 quid lol.
A few 12" lengths of silver steel is all you need - a darn sight cheaper than £80 then spend the money on other tools that you will use more often.
http://www.cherryclan.com/2015/08/jinty-chassis-build/
IMHO chassis jigs are a luxury item if you have money to spare, personally there are dozens of other tools to spend my money on before I'd even consider a chassis jig.
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The results look good but I have no idea how you managed to create them on a the Mill.
Don
I could be wrong but it looks like the cones were turned on a lathe, but if you faced it off in a lathe then the cone would be symmetric. By clamping it in the mill in the way shown and milling the end of the cone it means that the bottom line of the cone part is straight with the smokebox and all the taper is on the upper part of the boiler.
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I would not be willing to bet on the Lima one being to any particular scale!
That's a shame - the paint went on nicely! It was only £1 so nothing lost for a bit of practice. Thanks for the info.
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All of the following are ready to be produced. However I am awaiting confirmation from the Association as to which if any will be shop items. If not, then I will be placing an item in the December Newsletter to sell them on a one-off limited edition basis.
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NPCS underframes:BR CCT (for Farish body)....LNWR Coal Tank chassisI'd be interested in the BR CCT - hopefully it would fit the Lima effort as well (with a little tweaking) - not really into that era but I bought one to practise my painting and actually to my untutored eye the body on the Lima model looks alright to me.
Also interested in details of the LNWR Coal Tank chassis, although I have just bought motor and gears to start my own chassis so it depends on the arrangement.
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I'm lucky in that my local model shop stocks the Alclad range, I've used the matt lacquer and got results I'm happy with in 2mmFS, I would recommend the range if your local shop can stock them.
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I have piloted small hovercraft (many years ago). Great fun. In the early 80s, there was a race series across Europe and we drove up to somewhere near Spa in Belgium for that round.
The European events are still running albeit only a couple of events http://europeanhovercraftfederation.org
However there is an active GB club http://www.hovercraft.org.uk/racing.htm - well worth getting along to an event - it's great fun. Many many moons ago I built an F3 racing craft. However the speed and precision of the F1 guys is phenomenal.
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Nick at N Brass had a small batch of the cranes at the recent N Gauge Show, and they sold out on the Saturday. More are on the way apparently. He's also produced a Highland Railway yard crane and a smaller GWR crane (1.5 ton I think). No details on the website yet, but they will be added in due course.
Andy
Cheers - I'll look forward to a response to my email to then.
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Also a shot over the yard of St. Ruth showing the new Yard Crane built by John from an N Brass kit :
Great photos - I could do with a crane like that but I can't see any reference on the N Brass website - do you have any more details? I've emailed with an enquiry.
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Chain drive in an oil bath inside the frames.
Just another Bulleid innovation. Eliminates hammer blow to the tracks.
Instead sprays oil onto the boiler lagging and causes problems for the guard when he tries to explain to the passengers that the reason for the delay is because steam engine is on fire! (courtesy of Mendips Engineman)
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In this same series by O.P.C. was also, "Mendips Engineman", by Peter Smith, 1972 and "Footplate over the Mendips", by Peter Smith, 1978.
Highly recommended - very readable, amusing and informative.
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For the cab plate it's quite difficult - often there is some angled beading around the tank and cab plate will this not hide the half etch line?
I was pleased to find that the line is in fact covered by a L shaped filet between tank top and cab front.
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Could you not tin over the etch line and then using a Garryflex block carefully rub back until it just shows as a line of solder. Mind you those suggesting making a replacement part may be right and that would be the easiest course. I do wish I had held on to my Moleskin just the thing for tinning jobs.
Don
I've tried it a couple of times but it never worked that well. With the solder being softer than the n/s it's very difficult to get a completely flat finish, also when soldering on any subsequent details you have to be very very careful not to get the soldering iron anywhere near the filled etch because all that hard work can disappear in an instant. Been there got the T-shirt!! Which is why I would make a replacement part -it might seem a bit of an effort but in the long run it's worth it.
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Morning all, a question or two to those who do lots of kit modification...
The photo below shows that Agenoria has helpfully put in a half etch line on the cab front sheet to help align the tank. Unhelpfully this is about 2mm too high. What's the best way to get rid of it as it's now visible?
tmp_2370-rps20160813_101716270893567.jpgAgain helpfully Agenoria has used tabs and slots to locate the cab assembly on the footplate. The only problem is that the slots are in the wrong place and in the visible part of the footplate. What's the best way to fill these?
tmp_2370-rps20160813_101716270893567.jpgThanks for your opinions.
For the cab plate it's quite difficult - often there is some angled beading around the tank and cab plate will this not hide the half etch line? If not then personally I would just use the cab plate as a template and just cut a new one out of nickel-silver.
As for the slots in the footplate use a scrap bit of etch and fit in from underneath, solder in and then file flat.
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Tool question: what is the thinnest practical parting-off tool?
It depends on the depth of cut.
This supplier, http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/cgi/insrhm, hasgrooving/cut off tools down at 0.5mm / 19thou. Page 593 on the catalogue
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Yes, I use the paid version. You'll need to if you intend to use it for sending off the files for laser cutting as the free version does not save the layers.
I don't think it is quite as clear cut as that. I use the free version of QCAD and have no problem creating and saving layers. In the latest version think that you can only create new layers when the pro version add-on is active i.e. for the first 15 or 20 minutes. but once those layers are created you can load and save the drawings with the layers intact even in the free version.
That said it is an excellent drawing package and buying the pro version is to be applauded and good value for money (IMHO).
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Nick -
Who's your supplier? I just bought 0.8mm and 0.4mm ply from ''SLEC' - quite happy with it, but it's nice to know of alternates.
Hi, as recommended earlier in the thread somewhere I got some 0.8mm LaserPly from Hobarts. https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials_124/ It cuts very nicely and prompt delivery.
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Unbelievable...micro-modelling quality of the highest order
Sorry to disagree but for modelling of the highest order that will need the aroma of eau de urine emanating from the boxes!! That said they do look really really good.
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performers dredged from the mire of obscurity (though I suspect some here may have heard of them)
Hardly dredged up from the mire of obscurity - they are still hugely popular. That said though, they probably got the gig being best buddies of Chris Evans, they both appear regularly at his CarFest concerts.
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Not cynical at all - it was all scripted - a short story.
My brother is involved with Ferrrari and helps provide the cars for the show. [...]
Sorry I know it's bad form replying to your own posts but I just remembered a small addendum to this story. In all the shots of the supercars for this road trip you may have noticed that they were always being followed by a fugly dark green Fiat Multipla! Again that was my brother along for the trip because in the back of that Multipla were half a dozen jerry cans full of fuel. They made a joke of it in the program but the GT40 range on a full tank was pitiful so the jerry cans were just to allow the GT40 to stay the distance without running to the petrol station every hour.
My brother has a few choice comments on JC's driving style and treatment of cars but I'm afraid they aren't printable on a public forum.
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Top gear always had set pieces where things seemingly went wrong, old cars had to break down on challenges, cars had to beat steam trains due to the water level in the boiler dropping (yeah right), Landrovers getting stuck in the muck when one could see it was driven off the hard track and into the bog.
Or... Am I just being cynical.
Not cynical at all - it was all scripted - a short story.
My brother is involved with Ferrrari and helps provide the cars for the show. He was involved with the road trip with the Ferrari, GT40 and Zonda down to the south of France to the Millau viaduct. They allegedly started in London with the Ferrari and GT40, met up with the Zonda in Paris and drove down to the viaduct. What actually happened was they started at the viaduct because they had to schedule in the filming with the helicopter and then drove up to Paris. So the observant watcher might have spotted that in the evening the sun appeared to be setting in the East, that was because they were driving north not south according to the script. Then when they got to Paris and got "stuck" in the underground carpark, actually that part was unscripted, in the background you could see my brother breaking up some pallets so that he could get his Ferrari out without damaging it. JC spotted him doing and decided that it would be his idea and it should be filmed. Anyway it was during this that they broke the Zonda, the owner wasn't very happy with them so took his car away. So then they were left without a Zonda for the rest of the filming from Paris to London, hence the script had to account for no Zonda between Paris and London.
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The added use of guests worked well with Eddie Jordan proving to be the weak link.
Agreed - why does he always preface any question he asks with the comment that "The question that everyone wants to ask is ..."? He does it on F1 as well and I keep thinking it's not the question I would have asked!
Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review
in 3D Printing, Laser Cutting, CAD & CNC
Posted
Hi,
It's all ordered on line but you have to create an account first. If you click on the login top right you should get to this page : https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/customer/account/login which then gives you the option to create an account. I seem to remember they emailed me to verify the account. Once you are logged in then the shopping cart is enabled for online ordering - be prepared for the prices though! The laser thin black sheet 1245 x 614mm is £35.50 plus VAT plus postage the 0.8mm ADAsignage is £29.50 plus VAT and postage. So it depends on how much you want - 1245 x 614mm is a lot of 2mm models! It would be worth considering joining up and splitting the costs if smaller sizes are required.
As for the colour then from the Darkly Labs forum I believe the black cuts easier and cleaner but I having nothing to compare it against as I just went for the black stuff.