Paul Holmes

So pleased to find you here Chris. I posted on NGRM snd was signposted here, I don’t often visit. 
I for one will be swamping you for gearboxes ASAP , so hope the new source is going to work out. I also hope that you have lots of those lovely newish coreless motors, I shall be wanting half a dozen motors and gearboxes., with six projects stalled!! 
With the website still on hold, I can see that I will be one of many keeping watch on your progress. I hope as all goes well and you can ship out to our most unpronounceable Welsh address before long. Can I get onto your backlog list somehow? 
paul 

Thanks both. The 5V positive is already in use to drive a servo for the reversing gear! I can’t overload that. The fans are these ones

http://www.sunon.com/pro2_page.php?pkid=10

and will not tolerate >3.5V. All a bit experimental especially for one like me who doesn’t really understand electronics!

They are switched with a pair of these fellows

https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/307/en-g6k-348800.pdf This is to switch between one fan blowing smoke up the chimney whist the other sucks smoke out and pushes it down to become draincock steam.

There are no plug in components in the loco, it’s a kitbuilt Slaters 7mm Narrow Gauge Leek and Manifold engine. I can identify the ground and positive pads and attach wires to them. Accessing the rail supply and adding another bridge rectifier is a possibility but there is little space inside the boiler to put anything else in now.

Cheers

Paul

OK, so I have started to work on the locos for Hulme End again after giving up four years ago. One is put together but not working correctly, the other is built but the chassis is off to instal lots of DCC gubbins. Has anyone installed a voltage regulator to a Zimo decoder? I need a constant 3.3v output for smoke fans. So far it looks as though I should connect the constant ‘ground’ out to the middle leg and the blue ‘positive’ to the input leg of the regulator, getting 3.3V out from the output leg. I will then use a FO wire to supply the switched negative return. However wiring diagrams suggest wiring in a 330nF capacitor across the input side and a 100nF across the output side to stabilise any stray AC current.

 

Is this the way forward or will I blow the MX645 decoder? Do I actually need the capacitors at all? Experts all start arguing........ NOW

I said I was being daft at the start. I think I got bogged down in the 198 business and turning the power off and on etc. I also misunderstood the line that says ‘use your DCC instructions for changing a point’ and thought it meant changing the assigned number for a point not just making the point blades move! Also when nothing happened physically during set up I assumed nothing had happened.

Whatever, the first one works quite well so we might have a loco trundling through the crossover later.

Eternally grateful. Paul

Thanks Mick

Too late and wet to go out to my man cave right now. I shall try this in the morning. So much clearer than the ‘easy to follow ‘ instructions!

Cheers. Paul

Change of plan, Mick, as the rain has stopped so I have just been out to the barn and tried your method and SUCCESS. So much more straightforward than the daft instructions. Point No 8 now responds to point 8 and the others all work on 1.

Cheers again. Paul

Make sure that they are connected to your main DCC bus.

 

Check they work in the first place as the default address is #1

Use the Lenz to operate them. They should all work as #1 if new.

 

There is no need to disconnect them.

 

Then:

Flick the switch to SET on the motor you want to re-address.

Use your Lenz and send a change point command for the number you want it to be.

Go through the full process of changing a point with the +/- buttons.

The motor will not move.t

Flick the switch back to RUN and that should be it.

 

Repeat for the next motor - yes you have to do them individually.

 

The above worked for me and my Lenz 100

 

Note - they should not need de-centring (with the 198 command)

Although they are delivered new in the centre position, the auto self centre is disabled.

This is because of the rise of systems that can't operate accessories above #99.

This has been the case for at least 18 months, although the instructions still say so!

 

The way to recognise a Digital IP motor with auto self centre on, it will do a left/right/centre shuffle at start up.]

 

Cheers,

Mick

Thanks Mick

Too late and wet to go out to my man cave right now. I shall try this in the morning. So much clearer than the ‘easy to follow ‘ instructions!

Cheers. Paul

This question has been asked before, but no answer has really helped my problem. I am probably being dim!

It’s a brand new layout with all new wiring so I have fitted and wired the first four Cobalt IP point motors into the DCC bus. I thought I could address each one after another but am stuck. The DCC concepts instructions are supposed to be straightforward but nothing seems to happen when I follow them...

Do I need to disconnect them one by one? Or can I address each one individually? Please could someone tell me how to do it and not using DecoderPro as I can’t make that work either...

Paul

Lime wood now ordered from Cornwall Model Boats as they worked out half the price! The sleepers should be a scale 8” in 7mm scale which is actually 4.66mm - handy! I have gone for the 5mm as the nearest size.

Hi Martin. That looks absolutely ideal thank you. I did not know this existed, an excellent source. My track is being built onto photocopied templates from Bob Gratton’s excellent book on the Leek and Manifold. When I started this project I thought this would be easier than using Templot and now truly regret that decision. Too late now as we’re almost finished...

Hi Martin. That looks absolutely ideal thank you. I did not know this existed, an excellent source. My track is being built onto photocopied templates from Bob Gratton’s excellent book on the Leek and Manifold. When I started this project I thought this would be easier than using Templot and now truly regret that decision. Too late now as we’re almost finished... Back to your excellent Templot for the next project which will eventually be TanyBwlch in 014.

Cheers

Paul

It looks like C&L in the new incarnation have stopped selling the timber tracks range but on looking at the new Timber Tracks website they have stopped doing the track I have been using. I need a pack of 4mm scale 12” by 1.6mm sleeper strip. They came with ten strips on a laser cut panel at 17” long with five in a pack. Nowhere to be found online now... If anyone has a pack I could buy I would be grateful. The 0.8mm thickness is no good as this is being used for a 7mm NG model and I have a pack anyway!

Any help welcome

Paul

I thought the above attachments would provide a link to festipedia not display the photos!!!

These are all from the excellent festipedia website and apologies if any copyright issues arise from my copying them here.

Paul

But they are on all the old FR locos and point down. Also there on Lyd, new build. Someone must know what they are. See festipedia link.

I have just been in touch with Roy C Link about this and learn that Stuart Baker has not written only an article but also drawings which are due to be published in the next Narrow Gauge and Industrial Review, so the safest thing now is to wait for that in January.

This has been so helpful, thanks. I am a member of the FR Heritage Group so have started to get the relevant back issue. The pictures are useful - I am also a member there.

I shall follow up your other leads too.

It's not the Mole that I am looking for sadly, but the four locos that came a little later, three in 1885 then the last in 1890.

Built by Adamson and called William, Mary Caroline, Edward and Charles.

I am considering a 7mm scale model of one of the Oakley/Welsh Slate Co locos built by Daniel Adamson from 1885-90. The only info gleaned so far (on line) is that they were 0-4-0 and their names. Otherwise I've drawn a blank. Does anyone know of details, especially photos and drawings? Looking forward to a lively discussion..

Cross posted from modelling forum.

I am considering a 7mm scale model of one of the Oakley/Welsh Slate Co locos built by Daniel Adamson from 1885-90. The only info gleaned so far (on line) is that they were 0-4-0 and their names. Otherwise I've drawn a blank. Does anyone know of details, especially photos and drawings? Looking forward to a lively discussion...

Hi. I cannot locate it right now, but recall some drawings in Narrow Gauge and Industrial. Looking at their website, I see from the searchable index that they were in Issue 80. Drawn by Stuart Baker, so should be good. Link to index -

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0947/6392/files/NG_I_index_Vols_1_to_13.pdf?15272571858428413643

Also Talyllyn was 2'3" plus the width of a thumb according to Boyd. That makes 16mm gauge. Stock with standard '00' back to back runs correctly through track built to 16mm gauge with EMGS flangeway standards !

Thanks for your kind comments.

The stock is mostly kit built and has grown since this was filmed back in 2010 (where did those 7 years go?) I have used all the usual suspects; early Englands are Port Wynnstay, saddle tank from Mercian, Little Wonder and F&B loco are scratchbuilt. Since this video was made, Taliesin adapted to early form from EDM. Stock is Port Wynnstay, 7mm Association and Worsley Works. I have also broken rank and have been building some 'modern image' FfWHR with the EDM Merddin Emrys, Lyd, Lilla and a modern Palmerston.

We have been sole Carer for my wife's mother up to her death last year and this has prevented me exhibiting and we have also moved house. So with no permanent railway room (yet) the layout is in hiding! Alongside this and in the same vein, I have been assembling the bits for a Leek and Manifold layout, again to correct 17.5mm gauge.

My underlying philosophy when modelling is to build a scale replica, to the best of my ability, of a prototype by whatever means is most appropriate. I try NOT to model a model!

Once this is decided, everything gets easier not harder.

1. Get the track right. There is a good selection of rail in both bullhead (Dinas has S scale society rail and chairs on ply sleepers) and flat bottom. Sleepers and many components from a variety of sources especially C&L Finescale. Draw the track accurately. I use Templot. If you're going 014 or 017.5 then your building your own track!

2 Get the wheel/track standards from basics and don't rely on Peco! I use EMGS standards, NOT OO standards and then subtract the relevant amount to get to a working relationship between the wheel flange and flangeway clearances. I hope to write an article for Narrow Lines on this soon as cannot expound it all here.

3. Most kits can be built to the correct gauge without too much extra effort. As Paul Martin states above, his kits are designed for correct gauge as well as 16.5. Chassis can usually be built with narrower spacers. The Mercian chasses had 2mm cut from each spacer before soldering up. Markits do 14mm axles for their Romford wheels. Most other wheels push onto axles (in the main Gibsons) so can be correctly gauged with the 12.5mm back to back. Rolling stock just the same. When looking at correct 2'6" models the same principals apply. The Slaters kits and Dorset kits can all be built to 17.5mm.

We are fortunate in that John Clutterbuck, one of the 014group team is now at the business helm of Narrow Gauge and Industrial Review leaving Roy Link to his vital role of expert editor. I expect we will see more 014 in print.

Rather than in decline, I suggest that true scale 7mm narrow gauge is about to take off as P4 has done

See www.O14group.org

And the 014 yahoo group

Hi all. Not a frequent visitor here so only just found the thread.  014 is a niche scale/gauge by its nature, and really does not need any more trade support IMHO.  There are a few of us beavering away and 014 was represented at Burton this year as my 14mm gauge model of Lyd, the FR built lynton and Barnstable loco was in the competition.  

I am still actively modelling in 014, with Lilla, FOUR England engines and over a dozen four wheel carriages all coming along nicely right now!  

There is much talk of track gauges and like.  I will now admit to never having used a gauge in my life and that Dinas 1869 was built using a digital vernier and no gauges at all!  

See youtube link   

I will post a bit more later - lunch beckons!!