Black 5 Bear Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 (edited) It's never been a better time to model the WW1/WW2 ROD theme. This looks a stunning model Callum. These modelling periods are rightly receiving more exposure thanks to you and others in the hobby. An expensive time though with the imminent releases of the LNWR/ROD Robinson 2.8.0s, Boche Buster railgun, ROD J36 and finally a Southern Wartime liveried black Merchant Navy class. Well done ! Edited July 22, 2019 by Black 5 Bear Mistakes 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 33 minutes ago, SDJR7F88 said: A few more edits of the ROD version for those interested Is it just my eyes / monitor, or is there a noticeable difference in the shade of khaki used for the boiler / firebox and the rest of the loco? Regards, John Isherwood. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cofga Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 10 hours ago, The Johnster said: Sounds like a knee-jerk reaction to being unable to source the original motor and having to cast around for a replacement quickly to meet delivery schedules. DCC is beyond my skillsets, Luddite that I am, but apparently the new motor works fine unless you change the chip, which is of course hardly Ox's fault. One of the reasons that I stick with DC, where I still don't really understand what's going on but can usually cobble up something that works... I firmly believe that is what happened. The decoder programming was originally developed with the 5 pole skewed motor and then they switched it the coreless motor without sending a model to ESU for reprogramming. The result is sitting on our tracks now. I have given up trying to reprogram the decoder and replaced it with a SoundTraxx UK steam one and my performance is excellent now. I have decided to standardize all my GWR steam locos with these decoders. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 9 hours ago, cctransuk said: Is it just my eyes / monitor, or is there a noticeable difference in the shade of khaki used for the boiler / firebox and the rest of the loco? Regards, John Isherwood. Hi John, I can assure you this is just my poor loft lighting playing tricks. I've had people ask this question on other models I photographed on the layout, so think it's time for a lighting upgrade 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 9 hours ago, Black 5 Bear said: It's never been a better time to model the WW1/WW2 ROD theme. This looks a stunning model Callum. These modelling periods are rightly receiving more exposure thanks to you and others in the hobby. An expensive time though with the imminent releases of the LNWR/ROD Robinson 2.8.0s, Boche Buster railgun, ROD J36 and finally a Southern Wartime liveried black Merchant Navy class. Well done ! Not forgetting the new WDLR Grey Stock from Bachmann, plus the possibly the 'Parrot' Tank Wagons too! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
truffy Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 6 hours ago, Cofga said: my performance is excellent now. Mrs Cofga must be thrilled. But what about the loco? 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted July 25, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2019 This is the problem with the moulded on cabside plate. As shown in Calum’s very clear photo, unless the locos had these in real life with the D on. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 53 minutes ago, Hilux5972 said: This is the problem with the moulded on cabside plate. As shown in Calum’s very clear photo, unless the locos had these in real life with the D on. Yes, the cab-side number on most of the Dean's in service on the front I've seen, have had there Number Plates removed. The D or other letter depending on where they were posted was painted straight to the cab-side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2019 Interesting to see this has a coreless motor in the later chassis. Mine actually runs very well on ECM DC feedback controller, a complete contrast to the Hattons 58xx which sounds like someone dropped a bag of spanners in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted July 25, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2019 13 hours ago, SDJR7F88 said: Yes, the cab-side number on most of the Dean's in service on the front I've seen, have had there Number Plates removed. The D or other letter depending on where they were posted was painted straight to the cab-side. I wonder why those that (initially) kept their GWR number such as 2308 & 2330 had the plate removed? I can understand taking it off if they were getting a new number as they did but not whilst the ROD number and the GWR number are the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 13 hours ago, melmerby said: I wonder why those that (initially) kept their GWR number such as 2308 & 2330 had the plate removed? I can understand taking it off if they were getting a new number as they did but not whilst the ROD number and the GWR number are the same. Other companies locos seemed to keep there's. Maybe the GWR didn't want brass work going missing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted July 26, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2019 48 minutes ago, SDJR7F88 said: Other companies locos seemed to keep there's. Maybe the GWR didn't want brass work going missing Brass would have been an expensive thing back then I would imagine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Managed to get a little video filmed before the heat got to much in the loft the other day. The sound decoder is from another Oxford Dean that is on the workbench. Hope it's of interest 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 26, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, SDJR7F88 said: Other companies locos seemed to keep there's. Maybe the GWR didn't want brass work going missing "sorry sir, we're confiscating your number plates to melt down for shell casings. you can have them back when we've blown up the Bosche." Edited July 26, 2019 by 57xx 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2019 Apologies if this question has been covered before, but it is aimed at those who have taken the loco body off the chassis. My question is - how easy is this to do, please? Following a review of it's running abilities, my BR black example, which has been beautifully weathered by Tom Foster recently, has failed the slow running test, so is now slated to get a replacement etched chassis. Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 88C Posted July 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2019 Fairly easy, there are two screws under the cab and one hidden under the front NEM pocket. The only comment is that the factory really tightened the screws so care is needed to avoid damaging the heads. Brian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, 88C said: Fairly easy, there are two screws under the cab and one hidden under the front NEM pocket. The only comment is that the factory really tightened the screws so care is needed to avoid damaging the heads. Brian Yep, also: The two screws under the cab are partially obscured by the brake rigging so you have to approach them at an angle (not good if you need to apply force). Alternatively loosen the base plate so that the brake rigging can be gently eased up to give you a better angle. The vacuum pipe at the front needs to be eased away to let the chassis and the body shell part. It's flexible plastic so it deforms and springs back without any problems. Edited July 27, 2019 by Harlequin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted July 27, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2019 Beware: On one of mine the two screws under the cab already had damaged heads, so undoing them was even more difficult. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2019 3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said: My question is - how easy is this to do, please? Very easy, Unscrew the tender coupling, lever off the front NEM coupling to access the front screw. Using the correct size screw driver, remove the front screw, then try the rear two screws at an angle. If they don't move easily (mine did), then you can loosen/remove the keeper plate to access the rear screws head on. Lift the rear of the chassis out first, sliding backwards and up to remove from the front without any conflict with the steam pipe. If you do remove the keeper plate, the front can be rather fiddly with the sand pipes clashing when trying to refit, but it is far from tricky. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisr40 Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Hello. I have a very buzzy factory fitted sound example. Has anyone with similar problems tried the youchoos tip of removing the surface mounted capacitor and did it help ? Thanks Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 5 hours ago, Chrisr40 said: Hello. I have a very buzzy factory fitted sound example. Has anyone with similar problems tried the youchoos tip of removing the surface mounted capacitor and did it help ? Thanks Chris I have the some with my Black one , though have yet to try that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisr40 Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, SDJR7F88 said: I have the some with my Black one , though have yet to try that Hi Callum. Impatience got the better of me so I broke out the soldering iron. Results ? Well the buzz is less pronounced after I did a cv54 set to zero and auto tune of the chip. You can fiddle around with the slow speed parameters but I haven't found any benefit so far. I tried disabling analogue running and the frequency monitoring cv as well as BEMF but no joy. To prove it's not the motor i popped the blanking plug in and it was quiet as a mouse on analogue ( can you get an analogue mouse ?) I have written to Oxford Rail for advice so will share whatever they tell me. Thanks Chris Edited August 11, 2019 by Chrisr40 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted August 29, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 29, 2019 On 11/08/2019 at 17:58, Chrisr40 said: ( can you get an analogue mouse ?) This is an analogue mouse: Any news from Oxford yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 This is a digital mouse. Jason 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 On 11/08/2019 at 17:58, Chrisr40 said: To prove it's not the motor i popped the blanking plug in and it was quiet as a mouse on analogue .... Could there be a lesson to learn here? Just two wires, and all that ? 'Nuff said !! Regards, John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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