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Darjeeling Himalayan Railway - Coaches


Scottish Modeller
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  • RMweb Gold

HI all,

 

In the past I've built a few of the Worsley Works 'Scratch building aids' with a fair amount of success.

 

I've done a couple of the coaches and the diesel railcar already.

 

Now I have a couple more things to build!

 

So - what have I landed myself with this time?

 

1 - NDM6

 

2 - Second Luggage Guards Van - 153 or 157 (did carry 500 and 501 for a time)

 

Plenty of photos and info available about the NDM6.

 

It's the 2nd that I have difficulty with as I've not been able  to find a photo of the real thing.

 

So far all I have  to work from is the pictures from the Worsley Works website.

 

Anyone on here built this one or have photos of the real thing?

 

Thanks

 

 

Edited by Scottish Modeller
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  • RMweb Gold

http://darjeelingtrainz.com/dhr-engines-rollingstock.html

 

Scroll down....there is a pic of #157 from Trainz. Contact those developers if you need any more pics. I'm sure they can help if they did it for a sim.

Yes - that's the coach as it is now.

 

However, tthe etch is for the coach in it's previous condition.

 

They were refurbished with new windows when they became 500 and 501.

 

Since then they have been renumbered back to the original numbers.

 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

HI all,

 

OK - It's time to start...

 

First - with permission from Allen at Worsley Works - a copy of the etch master.

 

post-6887-0-24612800-1458492078_thumb.jpg

 

Finding photos of the real thing has proven to be a problem.

 

Fortunately Worsley Works have a photo of the model on their website.

 

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/Image-Pages/Image_NG_DHR_4mm.htm

 

Scroll down to reach the coach in question.

 

Next - Bending things!

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting - making a start on the modelling.

 

Tools are a very important and necessary part of all modellers lives.

 

For working with Etched Brass I mainly use the tools shown below.

 

post-6887-0-85999700-1458492517_thumb.jpg

 

Additional tools required are soldering eguipment and a small hammer - not shown in the photo!!

 

Next - Bending things!

 

Thanks

Edited by Scottish Modeller
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting - bending things in etched materials - brass, nickel silver or stainless steel.

 

The first thing is to understand how the kit was designed and how the designer intended you to work.

 

As a general rule though - if there is a half etch line - it should be on the inside of the fold.

 

I say general rule as some kits have limitations as they are etched from one side and not from both - in cases where this applies you have to do reverse folds with the etch line on the outside to arrive at the correct shape for the model.

 

What do I use and why?

 

I use whatever tool enables me to get the best fold I can for the model.

 

Hold and Fold - Great tools!

 

Available in a variety of sizes. Don't skimp on the price - quality tools cost good money but last a lot longer than cheap ones.

 

Modellers pliers.

 

A variety of pliers are very useful, just remember you don't want ones that have serations on the inside of the jaws so flat pliers are the thing to buy. You don't want to add that pattern to the parts - do you?

 

I have all sorts of sizes and descriptions - Flat, pointed, curved and needle nosed. Again, price makes a big difference, cheap ones won't last or won't close accurately and distort the parts as a result.

 

Self locking forceps are pliers with a different name and are great for holding small parts.

 

Wood blocks are also useful - used to hold things with g clamps they act as a third hand.

 

I'm not going to bore you with how to use a hold and fold - it's name tells you what it does!

 

I'm off to fold some brass!

 

Next - All sorts of bent brass.

 

Thanks

Edited by Scottish Modeller
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting - some bent brass.

 

Once I started folding the brass for the coach - I got carried away and. as things were going well, bent up all the bits for the coach in one session!

 

post-6887-0-31810800-1458493929_thumb.jpg

 

There are some fairly tricky bends to achieve. Just work with the etched lines and you shouldn't go wrong, the kits are well designed and have all the fold lines in the required places.

 

Next - Out with the soldering tackle

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting - a bit of black art stuff(soldering)!

 

Preparation is all important when it comes to soldering.

 

Clean metal, clean soldering iron, flux, solder, desolderer, wire wool - all of these are essential if you are to be successful in your task.

 

First thing, clean the metal where there are going to be soldered joints.

 

post-6887-0-64594100-1458508645_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-71339400-1458508676_thumb.jpg

 

What is the task then?

 

Well - with an etched brass kit, the first thing is tinning the metal where you are soldering the parts together.

 

What is tinning? This is where a thin layer of solder is laid onto the metal with the soldering iron.

 

post-6887-0-59686200-1458508746_thumb.jpg

 

Doing this makes it easier and quicker to solder the parts together - and get them in the right place first time(we hope).

 

What the flux?  Flux comes in a variety of options, creme, paste, liguid - all are useful at some stage or other.

 

What about solder? Solder also comes in a range of types, some more suitable than others for the task at hand.

 

Cored solder seems to be the most popular, solid solder and solder creme are also available,

 

For me - when it comes to etched kits, I'm not a fan of fluxed solder, I use solid solder in a variety of gauges and melting temperatures with either flux paste or liquid.

 

If it goes wrong - back to the cleaning using the soldering iron and desoldering wick or pump to remove the solder at the bits you got wrong!

 

Then start again and tin the parts.

 

Next - soldering the parts together.

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Looks wonderful...Keep up the good work. Are these in OO9? Is there a DHR B-Class to go along with it (Because I've been meaning to do one)?

Hi Sarah,

 

Yes - these are OO9....

 

Yes - the B Class is available in OO9 (and other scales)

 

http://www.backwoodsminiatures.com/009kits.htm

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting - soldering the parts together.

 

OK - time to warm up the weapon of choice!

 

I have a range of soldering irons available to me - 12w to 75w and thats without getting the gas out.

 

So - I'm well equipped - what do I base my choice on?

 

As this is etched brass there isn't a problem with melting components - so you can use a fairly heavy, higher wattage soldering iron.

 

For the thinner, smaller kits - I use a 25w Antex straight to the mains. By a bit of crafty electricery I can also use it with the Antex temperature controller.

 

I've said it already - clean everything in preparation for soldering.

 

Tin everything, then clean it again.

 

Now - down to the soldering bit.

 

I have a useful bit of hardwood that I use as a workbench protector and do all the soldering on it.

 

Doing this also means I can pin things down in the position that they need to be soldered in. Call it a 3rd and 4th hand!

 

What first - A side...

 

post-6887-0-29740000-1458603719_thumb.jpg

 

I had to redo this one - wasn't happy with how I had tinned it - so started again.

 

I then added a set of doors to the side.

 

post-6887-0-22884500-1458603931_thumb.jpg

 

This gives one side more or less done (I'll explain later)

 

post-6887-0-02002700-1458603992_thumb.jpg

 

Whilst the soldering iron is hot - do some other important bits.

 

What like?

 

Adding strengthening fillets of solder on the inside of the bends to the etch.

 

post-6887-0-41467000-1458604073_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-10255000-1458604102_thumb.jpg

 

I'll not repeat the soldering for the other side - It's exactly the same as the one I've just shown.

 

Now - I said nearly complete earlier?

 

Yes - at this stage they are nearly complete, but...

 

They need cleaned again!

 

Take off all the excess solder, get rid of your greasy fingerprints and any traces of flux that is left.

 

But - before we do that - I'm about to add something that isn't included with the kit.

 

Having worked out that the roof will need to be soldered on - what are we soldering it to?

 

The join would be roof edge to coach side - right on the edge!

 

That doesn't make for strong, robust models that can withstand the rigours of exhibition life.

 

So - to get the strong joint I'm going to add a strip of brass to the top of the side.

 

This will be inside and unseen - so any bit of scrap brass strip will do.

 

Next - Carry on soldering

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per the previous posting - Carry on soldering.

 

OK - Now we get to the more interesting and difficult stuff.

 

As commented above - I've added a couple of bits of extra brass...

 

post-6887-0-80779800-1458687034_thumb.jpg

 

Brass sheet - 10 or 15 thou

 

post-6887-0-26930000-1458687047_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-19055300-1458687059_thumb.jpg

 

Score to mark at about 1mm - makes it easier to fold

 

post-6887-0-10667100-1458687072_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-38732500-1458687090_thumb.jpg

 

Cut at about 3mm - You now have 1 of 2 extra pieces.

 

post-6887-0-62361700-1458687103_thumb.jpg

 

Tin one side of both strips - on the inside of the fold line you created.

 

post-6887-0-74837600-1458687114_thumb.jpg

 

Ready to solder the reinforcing piece to the side.

 

This may seem like a lot of fiddly work - but it will pay off later - I promise!

 

post-6887-0-82518800-1458687126_thumb.jpg

 

This is what you get for all your labours.

 

A pair of coach sides with a partial curved reinforcing/securing strip for the roof.

 

What next - Time for the underframe/chassis bits.

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible!

 

As per comments on the NDM6 thread - I've broken my favourite soldering iron.

 

Photos of where I got to before this happened to follow shortly.

 

Need  to clear the decks before I can do a photo session.

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting....

 

Time to put things together!

 

First - Chassis

 

post-6887-0-05683500-1459359563_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-10552200-1459359583_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-35536500-1459359593_thumb.jpg

 

Apologies for missing out the assembly of this bit.

 

Getting the bits in the right place is easy as the chassis plate has etched slots. Getting it to stay together whilst you solder it is more of a challenge and I didn't have a spare hand available to click the camera.

 

Thanks

 

More Soldering - Ends and sides together.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Got a bit sidetracked over another commission job!

 

Will be back on track with this build over the weekend.

 

In the meantime.....

 

Wanted - good side on photos of any DHR rolling stock.

 

I'm particularly interested in coaches.

 

What have you or what have you found out on the web?

 

Thanks

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

As per previous posting....

 

Now with added primer!

 

post-6887-0-60845700-1460399266_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-85549600-1460399271_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-43279100-1460399278_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-08100200-1460399283_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-58713200-1460399289_thumb.jpg

 

post-6887-0-73004200-1460399296_thumb.jpg

 

Putting the primer coat on has shown a couple of things that need further attention before I go any further.

 

First - the chassis - Nothing major - a couple of the floor supports that are part of the underframe etch are slightly out of line.

 

A bit of gentle application with the pliers will sort those out.

 

Second - the body - a couple of places where the filler has come out need refilled.

 

Handrails will need straightened - again!

 

Thanks

 

Next - the fiddly bits - like the window subframes and glazing.

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