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Duncan's 7mm Workbench - Connoisseur 4F Tender Cab


Fastdax
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A vacuum-braked train has a vacuum (or near-vacuum) throughout the train of vehicles. The loco creates and maintains the vacuum.

 

The vacuum keeps the brakes *off*. The whole point is that if the train separates at mid-point anywhere, the vacuum is destroyed and the brakes come on automatically, stopping both sections of the train. It's a fail-safe feature.

 

So what applies the brakes when there is no vacuum present?

 

Duncan

 

Duncan

 

Atmospheric pressure applies the brakes. When the brakes are "off", vacuum is present on both sides of the piston in the brake cylinder, so there is no force acting upon it. When the brakes are applied, vacuum is destroyed on one side of the piston only and atmospheric pressure at 15 lb per square inch acts on the piston and the attached brake rod. The vacuum above the piston in the reservoir is preserved and can only be destroyed by "pulling the chain" (identified by the white star on the solebar). This is essential when you need to move stock without using the train brake.

 

John

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Further reading on the vacuum brake:—

 

Swindon Engineering Society lecture No. 127—“Brakes For Modern Express Passenger Trains,” by C.K. Dumas, read Feb. 22nd 1921.

Also by the same author is No. 145—“Brakes For Long Goods Trains,” read Nov 18th 1924.

 

The original 1883 instructions for the GWR Dean brake might be of interest too. The principle is identical, but the cylinder moves rather than the piston.

 

Pete S.

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If the cylinder is in the right place it makes it apply the brakes when the vacuum is created which means either the instructions are wrong or the brakes are the wrong way around, which they are not for the way the brake levers are.

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Atmospheric pressure applies the brakes. When the brakes are "off", vacuum is present on both sides of the piston in the brake cylinder, so there is no force acting upon it. When the brakes are applied, vacuum is destroyed on one side of the piston only and atmospheric pressure at 15 lb per square inch acts on the piston and the attached brake rod. The vacuum above the piston in the reservoir is preserved and can only be destroyed by "pulling the chain" (identified by the white star on the solebar). This is essential when you need to move stock without using the train brake.

 

This makes complete sense to me now. When the vacuum is destroyed, atmospheric pressure pushes the piston in the vacuum cylinder upwards, into the preserved vacuum in the top half. This pulls the operating rod upwards and rotates the brake shaft clockwise.

 

So it all works fine with the vac cylinder in its current position.

 

Thanks for explaining this so clearly John.

 

Duncan

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Happy to oblige, Duncan.

 

Of course, the vacuum in the reservoir does leak away slowly over time. This is why it was normal practice to marshal a BSK or a full brake at the rear of a passenger train. Then, if a coupling did fail and the train parted on an upgrade or down grade, although it would come to standstill as the brakes automatically actuated, the guard would be able to also apply the handbrake to prevent the stock running away again when the vacuum reservoirs gradually discharged.

 

However, when you are the shunter and you have just cut off two vans from the rear of "The Owl" at Newton Abbot, you want to be able to loose-couple them to the pilot and clear the platform road quickly, not faff around with hoses and have to wait while the driver builds a vacuum. So you sling the link on the hook, and pull the two chains underneath the vans to kill the vacuum and release the brakes. Then jump aboard and off we go back to the parcels bay . . .

John

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Couplings.

 

I have been playing on Offerston Quay, doing a bit of shunting with my sole loco and four wagons.

 

One thing that this showed me is that 3-link and screw couplings, whilst very prototypical-looking, are a bit of a bu99er to operate. Apart from needing mucho practice, I find the procedure slow and a bit frustrating. Added to this the "big hand from the sky" factor and the need to change glasses from close-up to standing-back strength each time, and I have decided to go for an auto-coupling system.

 

I have used Dingham couplings before, on my EM Gauge layout and I think these are about the best looking of those available. The main drawbacks of them being handed (so no turning of stock end-for-end) and not being very good on sharp curves, don't really apply to OQ so I'm going to give them a go.

 

Since the OQ operator will be looking mostly at the right-hand ends of wagons in the Inglenook sidings, I'll make those ends of the wagons hook-and-latch, with the hook-and-loop on the left-hand ends and the business (left hand) end of the locos.

 

Despite the "hook and latch" end looking quite close to scale hooks, I wanted them to look a little better if possible. To improve their appearance, after a little trial and error I found that I could add a cosmetic screw coupling to the Dingham hook by carrying out these simple operations:

 

Take the bare hook etching.

 

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Pop-mark an indent about 0.5mm from the top edge and just behind the hook.

 

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Drill this out 1mm dia.

 

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Join the hole to the top edge, leaving a slightly narrower neck. We are only talking about tiny bits of nickel-silver here, so a sharp knife will cut through the excess.

 

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The neck of the hole can be fine-tuned with a needle file. This is the most critical step, as the cosmetic coupling should be able to be "snapped" into the hole where it is (almost) captive. Certainly it won't jump out unless provoked.

 

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Then finish the Dingham latch as per the instructions.

 

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Mounted in a wagon buffer-beam, the effect is quite pleasing.

 

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Here's a 3-link coupling for comparison.

 

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I came to put the 3-link version into the buffer beam of my Parkside Dundas 16t mineral wagon but found that the hole was far too big. Dingham do supply etched hook escutcheons but they are kinda large and either oval or trapezoidal, not rectangular.

 

Luckily, I still had etches from my 4mm version of the Dinhams so, just for fun, offered up a 7mm hook to a 4mm escutcheon plate and it fitted perfectly! So I added a 4mm plate to the 16t wagon after paring away the similarly-sized plastic plate with a sharp scalpel.

 

I need to tidy up, repaint and weather this plate.

 

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For comparison, here's the 7mm etch above and the 4mm version below.

 

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While I was at it, I batch built 5 each of the latch and loop ends.

 

I don't claim that this improvement to the Dinghams is original or unique and I've seen similar attempts documented elsewhere.

 

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I don't think I'll add cosmetic links to the hook-and-loop ends as this is a lot harder due to the loop's operating arm being in the way. The soft iron dropper gives an impressionistic nod to a coupling dangling below the buffer beam though.

 

The couplings will be finished by blackening in Carr's brass black. Or nickel-silver black. Or steel black. I find it doesn't make much difference which you choose. The thing not to do is paint them, as that would gum up the works and these couplings rely on the latches and loops being free to fall under gravity.

 

To operate the Dinghams remotely, I'm going to install electromagnets on OQ. These will be described on that thread as it's a bit more layout-centric.

 

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Duncan, brilliant slow running on the Jinty. I've only just caught up with this, so you'll have to excuse me if you've already mentioned it, but how did you get that fantastic rusted effect on the coopercraft chassis? Was it talc mixed with paint? Or is it powders? Can you take us through it if you haven't done so already?

Many thanks Les

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On 06/04/2016 at 13:20, Les Johnson said:

Duncan, brilliant slow running on the Jinty. I've only just caught up with this, so you'll have to excuse me if you've already mentioned it, but how did you get that fantastic rusted effect on the coopercraft chassis? Was it talc mixed with paint? Or is it powders? Can you take us through it if you haven't done so already?

Many thanks Les

 

Hi Les, thanks for the kind words.

 

I think half the trick with the slow running is to use DCC. The decoder monitors the feedback from the motor and keeps giving it the right-size "kick" to keep it moving at the desired speed.

 

The wagon rust is the usual matt leather/black mix of acrylics with a bit of Polyfiller powder mixed in as I didn't have any talc to hand (note to self: go raid she-who-must-be-obeyed-13-small.png.cc67f410293630b6f1cb53aa20e31ad3.png's shelf in the bathroom cabinet!). The filler powder is perhaps a bit coarse and real talc may be better. I stippled this mix on, then finished the effect with rust-coloured weathering powders, lightly brushed on to pick up the high spots.

 

Duncan

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Quick update about Dingham couplings. Here's something I have seen in the past, in EM Gauge.

 

If there's a prominent vacuum pipe close to the latch end of a wagon, the loop of the next vehicle sometimes can't rise high enough to uncouple, because it hits the pipe.

 

This happened on my unpainted box van.

 

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You can see that the Jinty's loop is as high as it can go, but the van's latch hasn't dropped back under the loop.

 

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I managed to get the vac pipe off relatively intact, The fix was just to twist it sideways a bit so that the most prominent part was off to one side of the loop. Perhaps this van got rammed by a load of timber sticking out of the next wagon and it twisted the pipe round a bit ... 

 

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Not easy to see but the pipe is now out of the way and uncoupling is reliable again.

 

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I lean towards the Monet school of railway modelling in which I try to create a convincing impression rather than an exact miniature replica; it suits my innate laziness.

 

Chris,

 

Seen this?

 

Duncan

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A bit more on the Jinty.

 

I made up the smokebox door handrail. For simplicity, the pillars were glued into the smokebox door. The 0.7mm brass rail was glued to the pillars with a runny superglue (Roket Hot).

 

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The prototype has a small flare on the ends of this handrail. I tried to replicate this with a tiny blob of thick superglue (Roket Max). I will have to tickle it up with a file once it's set hard.

 

By the way - no connection to Roket - just another satisfied customer, as the old refrain goes.

 

The rail is not quite parallel to the upper hinge. I know the rail is parallel to the footplate so perhaps I fixed the smokebox door on squiffy. Hopefully it's not very noticeable.

 

The front lamp irons (supplied on the kit etch, except the top one) are on.

 

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The rear lamp irons and the front top one are more complex than the simple 2-bend fold-up in the kit, so I soldered on some cast brass versions (no idea what make) that I picked up on eBay.

 

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On the side-tank tops I had already added control-rod supports from the tiny split pins supplied in the kit. These were for handrail pillars but the kit also provided alternative turned brass ones, which I used.

 

On the prototype is also a small valve wheel in the same area. I wanted to show this so I made a couple up.

 

The green dot below is some Squadron Green filler in a hole which the kit provides for mounting the original style of lifting loops. I made up some later-style lifting points (the bent brackets) as seen below.

 

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I used the base plate supplied for the early loops as it closely matches what's on the real 47327.

 

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In all these details, I'm referring to my photos of 47327 that I took at the Midland Railway Butterley on the day I drove this engine.

 

P1060955.jpg.0b10d187a12543eb1b7feea111844c83.jpg

 

For the hand-wheel, I turned to my Mainly Trains etch of 4mm loco cab details.

 

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One size of wheel looked about right so I drilled through 0.45mm and carefully soldered it to a short length of 0.45mm brass rod.

 

Just for comparison, the drill bit in the pin chuck is the 0.45mm bit, so these bits are tiny even in 7mm scale!

 

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Then the hand-wheels were glued into the drilled-through base plates.

 

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The final task for this session was to strengthen the steps. I've lost count of how many times I've bent them inwards when the body was off the chassis.

 

This time, I soldered on some reinforcing 1.6mm brass rod. It just needs a clean-up, but the body will now sit happily on the steps without the danger of the whole thing lozenging sideways and bending them yet again.

 

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IIRC the "small wheel valves" were for shutting off the water supply to the injector water valves (FWIW!)  Looking good!

 

Thanks Ray, I thought they may be for something like that!

Duncan

Very nice detailing work indeed.

 

Thanks Shandy!

Duncan

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Jinty detailing.

 

Maybe this is getting ridiculous but I wanted to add the small baffle plates to the top of the tanks, which stop any spilled water sloshing backwards into the cab when the loco moves off.

 

I used some more leftovers from my 4mm days, this time a wagon strapping etch, again from Mainly Trains. This allowed me to represent both the reinforcement strip under the cab window and the baffle plate.

 

Above is the raw item, below after it's been hacked roughly to shape.

 

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I added one to both sides.

 

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I also replaced the whistle and added some extra pipework out of 5A and 15A fuse wire, with reference to my photos of 47327.

 

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The coal plate had also got knocked off, so I re-soldered it back and attached more of the wagon strapping as reinforcement to the top and bottom, as per the prototype. (Obviously this is quite fragile in the real world also).

 

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You can see the lead shot ballast through the hole in the coal space. I'll cover this over and add some real coal eventually.

 

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The top straps I soldered on, but the bottom ones are superglued as I didn't want to risk the whole lot coming adrift.

 

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We're getting towards the point where I can give this 3F a good cleanup and its first coat of primer!

 

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OK, I promise this will be the last detailing job on the Jinty until it's painted!

 

I wanted to model the cab doors closed, as that's how these locos often ran. Having driven one, I can see why, as taking an ill-considered step backwards could see one falling through an open doorway and it's further down that you would think (my scale rule says nearly six feet down to sleeper level).

 

I thought I'd have a go at making the doors operate, in order to give me the option how to pose them.

 

Here are the bits I assembled:

 

(L to R) 0.5mm nickel-silver wire to act as the hinge pin, 1.5mm brass angle with 1mm external / 0.5mm internal brass tube soldered in to act as the hinge tube, brass angle for the striker rail, doors, capping (spare bunker capping from the kit etch).

 

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I simply bent the NS wire in the hinge tube and soldered the door cappings on (and rounded them over like the real thing).

 

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Then the hinge wire could be soldered to the inside of the doors. I see now that one is a bit wonky. I think I'll leave it rather than risk disturbing other parts. It will be black and dusty when finished.

 

A little bit of brass wire, soldered on and flattened in pliers represents the latch.

 

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It would be really tricky to solder this assembly into the cab doorways, so I used Roket Hot to hold the hinge side and the striker side in.

 

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Here are the doors closed:

 

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And open. They fold nicely flat against the bunker wall, as they should.

 

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I promise I'll paint it next!

 

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5-plank open - more details.

 

I had some cast brass lamp irons so I attached these to the buffer beams as per the reference photos.

 

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One detail missing from the kit is the bump-stops above the springs.

 

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I had some channel-section brass so I cut short lengths and superglued them into the space above the spring/axlebox mouldings. They may be just a tad large and have no mounting flanges, but they are better than an empty gap.

 

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Those stops look rather too deep to me, Duncan. There doesn't seem to be enough travel for the axleboxes?

 

Yes John, I do agree with you. I got a small selection of brass channel from Eileen's recently so I'll see if the next size down looks better.

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A couple of steps forwards with the brass 5-plank open.

 

After John pointed out that the bump stops were rather large, I cut them off and superglued on replacements out of smaller section brass channel - 1.5mm sq. rather than 2mm sq. I do think this looks better.

 

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I also filled the top few holes in the brake lever pin-down bar, as Paul Bartlett pointed out that the run of holes went too high.

 

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The wagon had a good clean up with Barkeeper's Friend spray, worked in with an old paintbrush, then had its first blow-over with primer (U-Pol Acid Etch #8 from Halfords). I didn't do the inside (except for the over-spray) as this will have the real wood inserts glued in after the main painting stage.

 

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This shows the little plasticard brackets that I made up to hold the bottom ends of the vertical angle strapping and diagonal washer plates together and to the solebar.

 

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Next I will try out the Archer's Rivet Transfers and start the main underframe and body painting.

 

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Hello Duncan

 

The bump stops look much better. In fact, the wagon is looking great. I know I'm a bit late with this, but it might be some use in the future -

 

post-27939-0-23303300-1462123851_thumb.jpg

 

This is a close up of the axlebox of a BR standard 12T van which I took at Newton Abbot in 1973, and it shows some useful detail. If anyone wants to use it please feel free to download it to your own PC.

 

John

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The bump stops look much better. In fact, the wagon is looking great. I know I'm a bit late with this, but it might be some use in the future

 

Thanks John - that's a great picture.

 

Duncan

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Time to start painting the Jinty!

 

I took advantage of the long weekend to strip the Jinty down to its components. Everything except the motor got a good clean in Barkeeper's Friend spray, worked in with an old paintbrush, plus a dip in the ultrasonic cleaner (well - those bits that would fit in).

 

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I blackened the wheels (but not the coupling rods) and re-assembled the rods with thin steel nuts to cap the crankpins. The crankpins are 10BA cheesehead setscrews instead of the 12BA ones supplied by Slaters. The Slaters top hat bushes were tapped 10BA and these are what hold the rods on. The nuts are decorative, but I did use Loctite threadlock compound on the bushes and nuts to keep it all together.

 

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I masked off the inside motion bits and primed the chassis with a couple of thin coats of U-Pol Acid Etch #8 (from Halfords).

 

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The body also got a good clean-up.

 

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Then the body had a few light coats of primer.

 

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I like this U-Pol primer. It dries in a nice flat coat and evens out small splatters as it dries. The finish is good enough that I don't need to do anything before giving it a coat of black. There are a few small imperfections here and there but this loco will get a medium-to-heavy weathering job as befits a steam shunter in 1962, which should hide a multitude of sins.

 

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Next up - spray the buffer beams while they have a light-coloured backing. I masked them off with an assortment of Tamiya masking tape and Frog Tape, then sprayed with unmixed Humbrol Acrylic No. 174 (satin Signal Red). This isn't as bright a red as some colours and I think it gives a good representation of the bufferbeam colour seen from a distance. It will be muckied up anyway.

 

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There's a bit of paint creep under the tape, but that will get covered with the black topcoat. I knocked the front steam-heat hose off while pulling off the masking tape!

 

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While I was masking and spraying red, I did the inside of the chassis frames, but not the inside motion parts (which have since been cleaned of excess red).

 

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To protect the nice red bufferbeams from the topcoat, I did start masking them up with tape but this proved even more fiddly that masking around them. In the end I just used 3 or 4 coats of Maskol. Smells like Copydex glue and takes me back to the 60's!

 

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While the Maskol dried, I got out the Archer's rivet transfers that I had lying around for a while. With reference to some photos I took, I added a few extra rivets (which are probably dome-head bolts in reality) here and there round the loco, but mostly round the cab and bunker.

 

These are waterslide transfers with a 3D resin dot to stand in for the rivet/bolt head and are applied exactly like any other water-based decals. I gave them a splosh of MicroSol to encourage them to sit flat to the satin primer.

 

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They are the black dots in this photo.

 

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After a night drying in a warm place, it was time for the topcoat. In the past I've had good luck using Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Surface Primer, as a primer but also as a hard-wearing topcoat.

 

I mixed one part grey primer to two parts black and one part Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. I applied this to the chassis using my trusty Iwata Neo which is a great bit of kit that seems to do all of my airbrushing jobs.

 

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The body also got a few light coats.

 

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2016-05-02001.JPG.ee856c95df4a891435c4345886f32eaa.JPG

 

A day later and I could assemble, lubricate and test the complete loco.

 

 

Edited by Fastdax
Reinstating photos.
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