RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 25, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Hi all, OK - So the coach build is going OK and I'll be updating it tomorrow at some point - health permitting. Time to set out what else is will be going on. First a diesel - NDM6 Worsley Works Etched body Chassis to use - Unsure as the one that has been supplied is a 6 wheeler and the NDM6 is a 4 wheeler! Will have to consult and work that bit out! Anyway - I've seen the great article about doing a state of the art chassis for this but it's not in the remit or budget for this build. Looks very good though and, if I was building for me, that would be my chosen route. But I'm not - so I may have to accept the use of the chassis supplied. Anyway - first things first.... Research.... Got loads of photos of several different DHR NDM6's - including plenty of detail shots. Read the article about building an NDM6 which is useful even though I'm not following that route for the chassis as it gives lots of ideas about adding the extra detail and making the supplied detail even better. I'll start with some photos of the etched bits - probably over the Easter weekend. Thanks Edited May 23, 2016 by Scottish Modeller 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Option B - stop worrying about wheels. SIliguri shed - March 09. Best wishes Eric 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 25, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Quite a few have used one of the Kato four wheel 11-104 tram chassis that cost about £10-15 incl post Edited March 25, 2016 by PaulRhB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I'll be making a HOm30 version of this... If a Kato chassis works, I'll use it, or else I'll use a custom made BullAnt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 28, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2016 Hi all, Progress has slowed - to a halt! I managed to break my Antex soldering iron whilst doing anothr job. I can't really moan about it - nearly 20 years of service, 5 replacement bits and 1 replacement element in that time. This time I dropped it and, as I couldn't see where it had fallen, managed to stand on it. In the meantime I've started bending the brass on this one. Photos in a while - need to clear the decks before a photo session! Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted March 28, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2016 At least you didn't do what I did once - knocked the soldering iron off the workbench and with amazing reflex action, caught it - but only briefly, I caught it by the hot end. Ouch. Good luck with the build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 28, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2016 Hi Colin, I can go worse than that At least you didn't do what I did once - knocked the soldering iron off the workbench and with amazing reflex action, caught it - but only briefly, I caught it by the hot end. Ouch.Good luck with the build. I have 2 parallel burn scars on one of my arms - gained by rolling over under a layout whilst wiring it. The irony is that I rolled onto a soldering iron that I had put down - and I did the same thing twice! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 29, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2016 Hi all, Whilst researching for the building of the Darjeeling stock I came across this wonderfully evocative bit of film.... https://archive.org/details/upenn-f16-0416_1930_Darjeeling OK - so it's from the 1930's and so not in period for the models I'm doing. But - as a piece of historical film - priceless. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 30, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 Hi all, Progress! With the arrival of a new soldering iron - I can resume! So - Whilst I had other soldering irons I considered them to be either too big (physically) or to powerful (wattage). So I waited.... Whilst waiting I did all the prep work - ready to start soldering. That left me waiting to get moving onto another stage. Thanks Next - Soldering Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 30, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 Hi all, As per previous posting Get some soldering done! First things first - time to tin up all the places where the soldered joints would be. Although not all parts are shown in the photos I did tin everything! Thanks Next - Now we can do the soldering! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 30, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) Hi all, Soldering - The black art? The secret of soldering is in the prep time and materials used. Thanks Next - Putting the body together Edited March 30, 2016 by Scottish Modeller 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 1, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2016 Hi all, A couple of messages received asking for more info.... I use the bit of wood, hardwood in this case, to work on as it protects the work surface and does not absorb as much heat as a tile of bit of glass. It also allows me to pin through holes in the metal to make it easier to tin or solder. I use the softwood, balsa in this case, because it accepts pins easier when holding pieces to be soldered. With a bit of careful pinning it can also act as a sliding support so that you can work easier when you make a hollow piece. OK - so, you end up with a bit of scorched wood marking on the metal - but it comes off easily. Thanks Next - Soldering the body parts together. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 1, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2016 Hi all, As per previous posting... Soldering the body together. Due to lack of spare hands I didn't get photos of the individual parts being put together. Thanks Next - What about the chassis! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 1, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2016 Hi all, As per prev posting... The chassis As I commented at the start - I was supplied with a Bachmann Plymouth 3 axle diesel to use for the model. So - it's wrong as it's 3 axles and the real thing only has 2 axles! Option 1 - Continue with the chassis supplied and make everthing under the running plate fit where it will Option 2 - Change the chassis and put everything under the running plate where it should be. Use a Kato chassis - I happen to have one. This would need a different running plate or frame to enable it to fit. Now just need to get confirmation from the person I'm building it for on his choice of chassis. So - comparison of the different things side by side Now just have to wait! Thanks Next - Adding the detail to the body 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 2, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 2, 2016 (edited) Hi all, As a result of documenting the couple of DHR builds I have ongoing and shown on here... I have gained another DHR commission! More on this once the parcel get s to me. In answer to a couple of questiuons that I have received - I've responded direct, but I thought my responses might be relevant to others with an interest. 1 - I am by no means an expert on DHR! 2 - I take on builds that I see as a challenge - whether that be the kits themselves or obtaining the info needed to do the build - I don't mind. 3 - I look at each kit as an engineering challenge - How close can I get to the end result that I think) the kit designer had in mind? 4 - My first etched kit build was a Mallard GWR Autocoach - way back when they were the highest standard of kit available! 5 - If you don't ask - you don't find out! So - I'll just carry on the way I am and with how I do things and hope to satisfy the people that get me to build things! Thanks Now - Back to the modelling! I mean you - not me! Edited April 4, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2016 Hi all, Update on the NDM6 build... Decision is - Use the Kato chassis so that the rest of the under footplate fittings go on at the correct place. New footplate marked out already - just got to get it cut. Hopefully will have progress later tonight. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Hi all, Not - As per previous posting.... Changed as have to have this bit done before soldering details onto the body Setting out a chassis. OK - as I said, the chassis/power unit question is resolved and the Kato chassis gets the task. To make this an easier and removable power unit is the task tonight. In a previous post I showed the rough mark out for what I thought I would need to do. Now - I have done it and, for anyone thinking about doing the same, (or using the same Kato chassis for other things) a drawing with measurements for you. If anyone wants a larger image - let me know. Thanks Next cutting out the sub chassis Edited April 4, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Option B - stop worrying about wheels. 2 March Siliguri 5.JPG SIliguri shed - March 09. Best wishes Eric Hi Eric, Thanks for this photo - probably the best side on photo that I've come across. It's proven very useful at giving me the correct positions for things like the steps. If you have any more photos - please share with us. Thanks Edited April 5, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi all, As per previous posting.... Making a sub chassis to mount the power unit. OK - so I had already marked out (and changed) a template for this and then marked up the metal (and changed it again). This is a situation where measure more than once saved a bit of time - and brass sheet! Now I'm happy with it! Thanks Next - Adding detail to the sub chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Claude_Dreyfus Posted April 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2016 An interesting little prototype you are building there. The Darjeeling is a fascinating railway - I'm keen to see how this progresses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hi all, A bit of thinking ahead ..... I'm going to need to put decals on this and the coach I'm building. I've searched in a variety of ways but cannot find any for 000. Surely there are some available? With the popularity of DHR I would be surprised if this isn't the case. Anyone got any info re this? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hi all, A bit of thinking ahead ..... I'm going to need to put decals on this and the coach I'm building. I've searched in a variety of ways but cannot find any for 000. Surely there are some available? With the popularity of DHR I would be surprised if this isn't the case. Anyone got any info re this? Thanks Oh, wish I could help but I was just going to print my own.... I'm doing a HOn30/HOe version! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Oh, wish I could help but I was just going to print my own.... I'm doing a HOn30/HOe version! Hi Sarah If I get some decals done - they will be rescalable. That should make it easier for anyone else doing the DHR NDM6 in future. Not sure if I should look at including other lines that have NDM6 power - will have to think about that later. This side is fairly easy to do The other side is more of a problem. The English script is easy - but I'm now trying to find details of the relevant font/typeface/characture set for the Indian Railways in what i think is Hindi Script. Thanks Please note - Photos used were supplied to me unacredited - Apologies if they are yours - Let me know and I can fix it. Edited April 7, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Hi all, As part of what I said about getting NDM6 decals done - I started searching. So - which railways have NDM^> Officially - this is the Indian Railways listing. Displaying all 6 locos belonging to NDM-6 Class Locos . Loco No Loco Class Shed Code Comments600 NDM-6 NRL Air brake only 601 NDM-6 TDH Air brake only602 NDM-6 TDH Air brake only 603 NDM-6 NRL Air brake only604 NDM-6 TDH Air brake only605 NDM-6 TDH Air brake only OK - I've already had a search for the Neral locos - I thought some aspects of modelling the DHR locos was difficult - I'm glad I'm not doing a Neral one! So - in terms of decals - forget the Neral locos - they seem to have blue/white, green/yellow and orange ones. Back to searching for the typeface/characture set/font.... Edited April 7, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Hi all, One of the contacts I have made has sent me a photo - of the inside of an NDM6 cab! At least - I think it's an NDM6 cab! I'm confused as the windows are different to what the other photos show. So - there will be something like this to hide where the motor unit is protuding into the cab. Thanks Edited April 7, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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