MGR Hooper! Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Beware...that isn't a NDM-6 cab. See the window style. Totally different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) भा र ती य रे ल INDIAN RAILWAYSThere you go...the Hindi script and English one!! Edited April 7, 2016 by MGR Hooper! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 एन डी एम 6 N D M 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 Beware...that isn't a NDM-6 cab. See the window style. Totally different. Hi Sarah, That's what I thought and why I mention it in the posting. Will see what else I can find. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 13, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hi all, OK - I'm still busy with this and the DHR coach builds.... Another parcel has arrived! More to be revealed once I get further with what I am already doing! As I'm posting.... The DHR 'Baby Sivok' that has been plinthed at Ghoom. Is there or was there, a kit available to build this? My memory says there was, but I don't remember and can't find out any details? Someone give me a prod in the right direction! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 22, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 22, 2016 Hi all, A bit more progress with the NDM6! OK - Like I said - powering this thing was a bit of a hit and miss situation. In the end - Tomitec power wins! This meant I need to change some bits about and create a new mounting plate to suit it. Whilst I was messing about with the brass - I made a few other bits that are needed! First - showing all the options open to me. Second - A closer shot showing the bits of bent brass. I intend to get this lot all attached to the motor mounting plate or loco body over the weekend. Thanks Next - more chasis work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2016 (edited) Hi all, I spent most of Saturday evening working out how to make the most essential detail parts for the NDM6... Or - that's my opinion at least! These bits Talk about a pain to make - they sure are. Anyway - I've come to a somewhat compromised way of creating something that looks the part. Take 1 length of 3mm Square brass section - long enough to make 4 parts of this type plus some to hold in a vice or clamp to the workbench. Drill a series of holes near the middle of the piece of brass. Join up these holes so that you can get a jewellers piercing say into it. With great care saw down the centre line of the piece of brass - but do not cut to the either end. This should give you a piece of brass with a slot in it, but still held as one piece as you didn't cut to the ends. Take a piece of flat brass sheet same thickness as the drill size ans same length as the saw cut you have made. Insert this into the slot you have cut making sure that it is flush to one side of the square brass section. Solder these pieces together. Now take a piece of flat brass and cut to 5mm wide and solder this on top of the flush side of the brass section. This should give you a T shape but with 2 square hollow pieces below the top piece of brass, NOw - I'll have to do this again as I didn't think to take photos as I was trying it out! Photos as soon as I do another section. Thanks ps - you end up with some really small bits to add to the model - Make more than you need as they are easily lost! That's one of the reasons I need to make some more..... Edit - Replace photo with larger image Edited April 24, 2016 by Scottish Modeller 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2016 HI all, As per previous post... Start to make the jacking points Preparation is the key! Makes it easier to do this... When doing this - do it by hand - not electric drill! There are 2, no 3, good reasons for this 1 - You have more control 2 - You won't break the drill bit as easily 3 - You won't end up with a drill bit through your finger. Thanks Next - Out with the Jewellers piercing saw or metal cutting fretwork saw if that's what you have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2016 Hi all, As per previous post (or one earlier!) You know all those bits I showed? Time to attach them to the body or chassis All together now! That leaves me to finish off making the jacking points. Thanks Next - Those Jacking Points.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2016 (edited) HI all, I couldn't resist it! Had to fit the sub chassis to the body. Thanks Now- about t hose Jacking Points.... ps - Forgot to say that I added the handrails whilst doing the soldering. pps - Not forgotten that I need to and the door handles. Edited April 24, 2016 by Scottish Modeller 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted April 30, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2016 Hi all, As per previous posting..... The visit to the Paint Shop! As described on the coaches thread - this was a nightmare! Anyway - now (mostly) resolved. Still some small bits to fit - the cab roof and the side surface grills will get a coat of paint tomorrow before putting them on the model. One set of grills will also get the Hindi lettering added before they are attached to the model. The other side - INDIAN RAILWAYS - will get done another way - but I'm still working on that! Thanks Next - Those other bits..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supaned Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Just catching up after some time away, The cab photo is either an NDM-5 as used on the Gwalior system , or an early series ZDM-5 (501-511) as used on various systems today including Dholpur & Dabhoi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2016 Just catching up after some time away, The cab photo is either an NDM-5 as used on the Gwalior system , or an early series ZDM-5 (501-511) as used on various systems today including Dholpur & Dabhoi Hi there, Thanks for confirming that. Still don't have an interior photo of the NDM6 so it looks like I will be making a general stab in the dark or a guesstimate of what it looks like! Whilst I'm on... Painting - a bit like the Forth Bridge used to be - I wish! Following the paint nightmare with the coach I went and got new everything to try and avoid a repeat performance when painting the loco. Did it work? No..... After the first coat as per the previous photos - I applied the top coat of the blue and hoped that was it. It seemed to go on OK, so I put the painted model in a dust free site to allow it to dry. I was a good boy and didn't go back to it for 24 hours. The top coat has reacted wit the other coat and the model has pock marks on the finish. So - It's now taking a bath to remove all the paint.... Please - not at all! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 9, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9, 2016 Hi all, I'm losing the will to live and it's all because of the painting problem on this loco! The loco is (3rd time) back to it's bare brass state. Does anyone know if Precision Etch Primer has changed chemically? I've never had a carry on like this in the past with it. The coach used the last of my old time and now I'm using the new stock bought at Perth Exhibition last year. It's almost as if the etch primer coat is still gassing after the top coat has been put over it. I say this as there are what appear to be small bubbles or pock marks from popped bubbles appearing in the top coat. Thoughts/suggestions? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 10, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 10, 2016 Hi all, At last! It's painted and I'm happy with the finish.... I decided not to use the Etch Primer this time - good old Halfords Primer for metal in a rattle can instead. This worked fine, nice smooth finish to the primer coat with no loss of detail. Then into the sun (Yes - we have sun up here) for the paint to dry, model inside a ventilated propagation tray. That was left for all of last night as I got on with other things. Back out to the job this morning though! First - has the primer has dried fully - yes. Am I still happy with the finish - yes. Time to put the blue on - yes Now resting in the sun inside the propagation tray! Initial inspection results in me feeling happy and thankful. Thanks Next? - Decals that don't exist - yet.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hi all, As per previous posting.... Thought I'd better put up a photo! Still waiting for decals though. Thanks Next - Progress on decals for numbers and the various bits of Hindi and English markings carried by the models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) Great job, but I think you need slightly larger wheels and a slightly longer wheelbase http://im0.indiarailinfo.com/0/NEXT/NEXT/1078922/0//img0475.jpg Edited May 13, 2016 by MGR Hooper! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) On the cab, if you blow up the photo of the locos above the desk pic on the previous page you can see the same type of desk sloping down through the side window so I would guess they are common to both. Also from the one photo in Iron Sherpa that shows anything the desk looks to be the same shape but the square switch box is to the top right not left. Edited May 13, 2016 by PaulRhB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 13, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 13, 2016 Great job, but I think you need slightly larger wheels and a slightly longer wheelbase http://im0.indiarailinfo.com/0/NEXT/NEXT/1078922/0//img0475.jpg Hi there, Yes - I am aware of both these factors. Such are the constraints of using an RTR chassis! I have another one in build already which will have a completely scratchbuilt chassis with the correct wheelbase and wheel sizes. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 On the cab, if you blow up the photo of the locos above the desk pic on the previous page you can see the same type of desk sloping down through the side window so I would guess they are common to both. Also from the one photo in Iron Sherpa that shows anything the desk looks to be the same shape but the square switch box is to the top right not left. That picture of the control desk is from a ZDM-5. Which had a similar different cab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 13, 2016 Yep I agree, but the photo above shows the same shape desk through the side window and the photo from Iron Sherpa we've shared shows the same shape up top. So I reckon it's the same basic desk, although the siting of the various extra switch boxes is different, which will be good enough for the model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) Hi all, As per previous posting.... AWe had the NDM6 running on Eddie Bristow's Darjeely 009 layout at the Kyle Exhibition over the weekend. This allowed me to get a better idea of the vertical clearances required to enable the loco to get round the layout. Photos of the stock after a visit to the layout and then some work on my exhibition temporary workbench! Please note - this is just the 'quick fiddle' to lower the body so that it woukd run on the layout. I will tidy the work up to make it a permanent solution. How did I do this? Well, when building the chassis I had allowed for the possibility that the body could be lowered once I saw what the minimum clearance to run on the layout was. A bit of work on the chassis mounting points allowed me to lower the body by 2mm. I will be able to lower it a further 1mm on the home workbench as I have better tools to achieve this at home. The run on the layout also enabled me to discuss with Eddie the various coupling options available and suggest some solutions. More on that later - I need to rough up some sketches to see how feasible the preferred idea is. Thanks To follow - details of my permanent lowering solution Edited May 16, 2016 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 16, 2016 Hi all, Spent most of the evening on lowering the body on the chassis..... The photos reveal that I have bent the sub chassis Ah well - will have to try and resolve that ASAP! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted May 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 17, 2016 I've heard that Adrian Shooter's DHR steam loco has been loaned to the Ffestiniog Railway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted May 20, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 20, 2016 I've heard that Adrian Shooter's DHR steam loco has been loaned to the Ffestiniog Railway. Hi Colin, Correct.... https://www.facebook.com/festrail/photos/pb.240578110715.-2207520000.1463748672./10156848472625716/?type=3&theater Some video on YouTube as well - sounds really good. Now - Who do I know that can make it into a sound file for a DCC decoder.... Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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