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Some LNER modelling in N


Atso

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Hi all,

 

Having taken a short break from my K3 design work, I decided to get some real modelling done by bringing some older projects a little nearer to completion.

 

First up is my R1 which is a dummy loco converted from a spare Union Mills Q2 body with a V2 front pony truck attached at the rear to give a 0-8-2 configuration. To be honest this was one of those quick and nasty projects which required building up the tanks, bunker (from an A3 tender body) and rear section of the cab. Having numbered this one 3119 I've discovered that the rear loco had a number of differences to the version of the R1 I've modelled - typical!

 

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Next is my scratch built J50/3 - this stalled as I hadn't thought out how I would attached the body to the chassis (which is still to do!). Currently sitting on a Jinty chassis (which failed this morning!) it will eventually have some lead added for weight and paired with a Pannier chassis. No. 618 wasn't ever assigned to the London district (as far as I am aware) but I've got a soft spot for the class and have just found evidence that J50/4 No. 585 was at KX in 1939 so this engine will be modelled some time in the future.

 

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J69 No. 7365 - an old Farish body now sitting on a Dapol Terrier chassis. This modification has resulted in the destruction of the Terrier body and the chassis is held in place by blue tack at present. This has proven more than adequate recently but a more permanent solution will be found shortly. No. 7365 is recorded as being shedded at KX in 1935 some might well have found employment in the Hornsey yards around that time.

 

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Green Arrow - this is not mine but rather a project (unexpectedly long term) I am undertaking for another forum member. The loco was a simple case of removing the numbers and replacing as well as some nameplates. The earlier GST is a home made casting I produced using a 3D printed model from my first pass at the K3 kit. It has finally been lined and lettered and awaits some final finishing touches before being sent to its new owner. Note: the different shades of Green aren't noticeable in real life!

 

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The cardboard C1 hasn't been left out either. Having received some boiler fittings (N Brass) which are visually acceptable the model has received its initial coats of paint. I've still got some work to do building up the cylinders, painting the wheels and obtaining a UM tender drive yet but the body is just about ready for lining. I don't think that the picture here does it justice (it looks better in real life!) but I'm happy with it overall.

 

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I hope that these models are of interest to you guys (and gals!). Comments/criticisms would be most appreciated.

 

Cheers

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Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for the comments!

 

Simon, the R1 is back on the work bench for some weathering. I'm thinking a slightly neglected look for a loco that would be nearing withdrawal at the time I'm modelling.

 

Ben, the Q2 stripped quite easily. Colin (Union Mills) uses celulose paints so I just dumped the body into a jar of thinners and scrubbed away the old finish (usual warnings apply!). I've been following your posts on your layout progess - I hope mine looks half that good when I get it to a similar stage of completion!

 

PNG, thanks I'm really pleased with the J50 though - must rate as my best scratchbuild to date!

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Nice work Steve! Some unusual classes for N gauge. I think they all need a degree of weathering though, especially the 0-8-2, and the pick ups on the J50 could do with disguising with paint.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Some thing like this?

 

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Model got toned down a little after I first saw this pic!

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Better, I think ;)

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Please be kind, its my first weathering effort! :huh:

 

The back story is that No. 3119 was withdrawn and then brought back into temporary service to assist at Hornsey in the mid 1930s - hence the somewhat neglected run down condition (even by the LNER's standards!).

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Hi all,

 

I hope that these models are of interest to you guys (and gals!). Comments/criticisms would be most appreciated.

 

Cheers

Atso,

good to see some different locos in n gauge.

I bet that 0-8-2T could be motorised fairly easily, if the boiler area is hollow anyway...

Chris

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Next is my scratch built J50/3 - this stalled as I hadn't thought out how I would attached the body to the chassis (which is still to do!). Currently sitting on a Jinty chassis (which failed this morning!) it will eventually have some lead added for weight and paired with a Pannier chassis. No. 618 wasn't ever assigned to the London district (as far as I am aware) but I've got a soft spot for the class and have just found evidence that J50/4 No. 585 was at KX in 1939 so this engine will be modelled some time in the future.

 

 

 

Nice little model your J50 - very interesting to me as I'm currently making my own (from the remnants of a wrecked kit - so it's a semi scratchbuild too!). What are the buffers you've used on it - they look different to others I've seen - and just what I could do with for an A3 or two....

 

Cheers,

Alan

 

P.s. If you need help getting the chassis going again drop me a line.

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Hi Chris,

 

Al is right a UM Q2 was the starting point for the R1. As a result the chassis and body are a single casting which would require some extensive (an very careful) work to remove sufficient metal to fit a chassis. I have got some future plans for a motorised guards van for it though.

 

Al, thanks for the kind words. I've seen the pictures you've posted elsewhere - looks like the old Hughs kit (I've got an unbuilt one somewhere) was the starting point and you've done a very nice job on it so far.

 

The buffers I used for the J50 are turned CCT buffers that I acquired from BH Enterprise a few years ago. They are a little thin around the waist but I think that they look quite good from most angles. I've got a pair fitted to one of my A3's (My one uncovered one - other than the paint job!) and again they do improve the look of the front end considerably.

 

Thanks for the offer of the chassis, the motor is now working but looks like the plastic gear has stripped. To be honest I bought this one second hand and haven't run it that much, I think a call is going into Farish this week for a replacement set of wheels. On this subject, I'm looking to take my driving wheel conversion on the A3 further - am I right in thinking that you suggested a 25 tooth gear from a Farish diesel chassis as a suitable replacement due to the thinner axles?

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Thanks for the offer of the chassis, the motor is now working but looks like the plastic gear has stripped. To be honest I bought this one second hand and haven't run it that much, I think a call is going into Farish this week for a replacement set of wheels. On this subject, I'm looking to take my driving wheel conversion on the A3 further - am I right in thinking that you suggested a 25 tooth gear from a Farish diesel chassis as a suitable replacement due to the thinner axles?

 

You should not need to replace the wheels (expensive route!) on the jinty - I've replaced gears alone (under £1 to do the repair in parts then!) on these no problems.

 

What's the A3 driving wheel conversion? Not sure I've seen that!

 

Cheers,

Alan

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Hi Al,

 

Thanks for the tip on the gear replacement. How do you preserve the wheel quartering though?

 

The A3 driving wheels conversion is using Farish Royal Scot driving wheels with a replacement gear. I seem to remember you trying something similar on an LMS loco.

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Thanks for the tip on the gear replacement. How do you preserve the wheel quartering though?

 

Careful refitting and marking of the quartering before removing a wheel.

 

The A3 driving wheels conversion is using Farish Royal Scot driving wheels with a replacement gear. I seem to remember you trying something similar on an LMS loco.

 

This conversion just about works, but clearance to the motor is very tight which stopped me going any further with it (the rotating armature could actually clash with the rearmost wheels). The gear is a 25 tooth, but one with a narrower central hole.

 

Are the Jubilee or Scot wheels available as spares (another reason I didn't go any further as it's too expensive an option to use whole locos!)?

 

Cheers,

Alan

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Thanks Al,

 

Hmmm some interesting points raised here. I'm not sure I like the idea of the rear wheels interfering with the motor I would assume that some packing behind the wheelsets would reduce the chance of this but how would this affect the loco when going around curves?

 

My initial though would be to remove the motor and place it in the tender driving the loco via a universal joint of some type. Problem with this for me is then the reasons for the overscale boiler have been removed so would I be wanting to build a new 'scale' body for the loco...

 

Farish do the Jubilee wheels as spares but I've not been able to get hold of a set of Royal Scot wheels yet...

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Hmmm some interesting points raised here. I'm not sure I like the idea of the rear wheels interfering with the motor I would assume that some packing behind the wheelsets would reduce the chance of this but how would this affect the loco when going around curves?

 

It's probably ok as only the rear set of wheels needs restriction. Fitting washers onto the axle to restrict its play would be ok. But it was all uncomfortably tight with the motor- I'd want to use the original motors as they are actually pretty good.

 

My initial though would be to remove the motor and place it in the tender driving the loco via a universal joint of some type. Problem with this for me is then the reasons for the overscale boiler have been removed so would I be wanting to build a new 'scale' body for the loco...

 

I think the Farish A3 isn't worth that much work - you might as well start from scratch. A3 from V2 is altogether more of a realistic option however.......

 

Farish do the Jubilee wheels as spares but I've not been able to get hold of a set of Royal Scot wheels yet...

 

I think the Jub wheels are better for this - the Scot ones are different and less appropriate for the A3. Do BR lines do the Jubilee wheels, or is it direct from Bachmann?

 

Cheers,

Alan

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I've been playing with the A3 wheel conversion...

 

I'm awaiting the appropriate gears from BRLines after unsuccessfully trying to fit the original A3 wheelset gear (Al - can't blame a guy for trying!). I've not restricted the side play in the wheels yet but can really see the problems Al raised about the rear wheelset interfering with the motor. I'm planning on using some 20thou plastic card to restrict the wheel movement laminated directly onto the chassis. Currently the A3 has a large bogie wheelset from a Jubilee at the front but this will be changed to the smaller bogie wheelset in due course. The rear pony has had its wheels replaced to - these coming from a V2 which fits perfectly!

 

Pickups will need to be replaced as they keep gettign caught on the wheels spokes! This all sounds a lot of work but I've managed to get a free wheeling chassis in just over an hour! I think that the difference the wheels make really does justify the conversion though - hope I can make it work now! ;)

 

post-943-126890857926_thumb.jpg

 

Notice how the valve gear seems to lean the wrong way? I've tried ajusting this but the plastic retainer that holds it all in place seems to be stuck after I've removed the moter. Any suggestions?

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I've been playing with the A3 wheel conversion...

 

I'm awaiting the appropriate gears from BRLines after unsuccessfully trying to fit the original A3 wheelset gear (Al - can't blame a guy for trying!). I've not restricted the side play in the wheels yet but can really see the problems Al raised about the rear wheelset interfering with the motor. I'm planning on using some 20thou plastic card to restrict the wheel movement laminated directly onto the chassis. Currently the A3 has a large bogie wheelset from a Jubilee at the front but this will be changed to the smaller bogie wheelset in due course. The rear pony has had its wheels replaced to - these coming from a V2 which fits perfectly!

 

Looks much better. Probably better to fit two thin washers to the rear axle to restrict its play though - plasticard would add a lot of unnecessary drag (and soon start to wear).

 

I'd keep the larger bogie wheels too - they look right.

 

Notice how the valve gear seems to lean the wrong way? I've tried ajusting this but the plastic retainer that holds it all in place seems to be stuck after I've removed the moter. Any suggestions?

 

Bachmann seem to install these the wrong way up as compared to Poole locos - they should therefore be inverted. If you can't get it out it may have a dab of glue on it - if worst comes to worst give it a good tug - if it breaks replacements can be had for pennies from BR lines.

 

Any news on the K3 by the way?

 

Cheers,

Alan

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Thanks Alan, I'll try and get the motion bracket out today!

 

The K3 is coming along nicely now after a brief rest to prevent me burning out. The CAD data should be sent to the printers this week with the masters arriving in early April!

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Hi all,

 

The A3 has now had its wheels fitted with a suitable gear and the play in the rear axle restricted. Wheels have been painted LNER Green and coupling rods placed back on (though no valve gear yet). After a little playing I've now got a working loco which is super smooth!

I've managed to remove the valve gear retainer and put it back in the right way :D . No pictures yet I'm waiting for the new bogie(s) to arrive (Sorry Al, the larger wheels interfer too much and I don't fancy cutting into the body).

 

K3 is with the printers...

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

 

The A3 is still progressing slowly, I've had a bit of a lull in my modelling activities lately but looking to get started again soon! Driving wheels are now green but I've still got the valve gear to reattach as well as a new bogie pivot plate to make up... I've now got two more sets of Farish Jubilee driving wheels so another couple of Gresley's finest should be going through a similar conversion shortly!

 

Scott, thanks for the comments. I've been following your work with the non corridor stock with interest, looking forward to seeing them completed!

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  • 7 months later...

Hi,

 

Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately the A3 (or rather A1!) has stripped its new gear so is out of action at the moment. This isn't too much of a problem as our garage roof developed a leak in October so most of the contents on the garage that doesn't mix well with water is currently being stored in the railway room.

 

This has curtailed modelling recently but I'm battling on. The K3 is currently on hold while I try and assess if Farish is going to bring out their own one now that they've done the B1.

 

However I've been back getting some more bits printed though Shapeways and have got a new body for the C1, a D2, V1 and C12 currently being cleaned up and some chassis to source. Oh... and a GNR 6wheel full break needing a modified Stove R chassis!

 

Pictures to follow in due course....

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