sir douglas Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 The folding support under the Fiddleyard now finished with the hinge block in place Deffors baseboard (13) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors baseboard (12) by Sam, on Flickr not much left i can do on the boards for now, fitting the catches for when the legs are folded and drilling bolt holes. I'll have to remove a cross member one a board to get the drill in because i want to drill through both boards together so i know the holes are perfectly aligned. The other board has to be held up by clamping the legs the board end becasue i cant fit the top of the folding supports without the board top 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Looking good. How is it rigidity wise? K Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 it was amazing, before you could wobble one corner about by as much as 3 inches without the opposite moving at all but now its absolutely rigid Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Excellent. K Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 A little late,but excellent work so on the baseboard`s Sam. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) This morning, the catches were fitted, wooden blocks rounded off, these are screwed into 32mm square blocks which are glued and screwed into the board stretcher Here is the block on the single leg Deffors baseboard (15) by Sam, on Flickr and the catche block for the double legs on the king board. Obviously there is bigger gap on the screw for both of the legs Deffors baseboard (14) by Sam, on Flickr After finishing that, the boards were stood up put together. some bits of ply have been sat on top to work to but they are not the intended surface. the Templot plan has been laid out and pinned down. the plan is out as i need to modify it to fit the now slightly shorter boards Deffors (32) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (31) by Sam, on Flickr checking what i could have as the minimum headshunt length, the wagons have been spaced to include possible coupling slack, the ruler represents the scenic break back scene and i am looking at if there is enough room to shorten the headshunt to the minimum to give enough room for the footbridge path i showed on post 31 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110591-deffors-o-gauge-60cm-x-250cm-was-223cm/?p=2576746 Deffors (33) by Sam, on Flickr Edited February 15, 2017 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 something i had not realised but my dad mentioned it earlier when i was trying out the train length and he showed me that i dont actually need the headshunt, there is enough room in the loop inbetween the scenic break and the second point as shown below. the scenic break is represented by the ruler and the end of the point blades on the second point are under the far right hand buffer beam. i had originally included the headshunt to keep the shunting on scene but if its not needed then i can use it as a siding, there isnt enough room on it for the full 3 wagon train but it be a private siding for one wagon Deffors (34) by Sam, on Flickr On a piece of old backscene, the side of the footbridge has been marked out, im not going to cut it out yet as i need to make sure of the loading gauge in relation to the skew of the track and make sure the sides of the arch are far apart enough to give enough room for loading gauge at opposite corners Deffors (35) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 A private siding is a good idea. Perhaps it could serve a local land owners estate..............Sir Douglas of Wakefield`s estate perhaps?. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) nice but the name is a bit too obvious, i'd rather go with the style of name references ive already been doing for my locos and wagons like; Family members, local history, local places and names plucked from all sorts of different trivia and nolstalgia that i like but this afternoon ive been thinking that it could be a cattle dock, because what would be the point of building a cattle wagon without a dock to serve it. Edited February 16, 2017 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) Very short, "sprig", sidings were often used for end-loading docks, with side-loading access for horses too. Sir Douglas could have his coach loaded onto a carriage truck, while his prize greys are loaded into a horse-box. Epsom (LSWR) had a neat little "horse dock", as described above, and I remember there being a thing with a sign proclaiming it to be "horse landing platform" at Llandudno Junction. Edited February 16, 2017 by Nearholmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Since the cross members have given the board the strength and rigidity, i wont need to use a thick board to on top for that purpose, i was going to use 5mm but i haven't got enough and don't know when i'll be able to get more but i do have enough 2mm ply, it may seem too thin but im going to try it all the board cut out and ready to screw down Deffors (36) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Quite a large step forward today. Firstly, last night the 2mm board was screwed & glued down to the king board which also meant that the folding support blocks could fitted underneath, all the work on the legs are now done apart from needing 2 more adjustable feet to go on the leg under fiddleyard. Deffors (38) by Sam, on Flickr The sector plate is now bolted on, The issue how to connect the wiring to the sector plate and to allow the plate to move freely has been nagging me for a while, it was only yesterday i figured it out, if i use a brass nut & bolt for the pivot, i can use that since the best place to wire through something that rotates is in the centre of rotation, using a common return means i only need one wire from the layout to the sector plate and this connects through the bolt Deffors (39) by Sam, on Flickr 1 continous wire is soldered to just the far rail of each track and is also soldered to the bolt, the extra wiring just carries the wiring over the extension joint. the wiring for the near rails have not been started yet Deffors (41) by Sam, on Flickr I have now changed my mind on putting an isolation switch on what was the headshunt, the idea before was to be able to isolate the headshunt so a goods loco could be sat in it out of the way while a passenger loco ran round its train in the station but now its a siding and if it has a wagon it when i want to run round the passenger, then the goods loco will just have to finish its shunting and take its train into the fiddleyard The pic below shows what will be the swith panel, one switch isolates the station track from the fiddleyard to the point and the other switch isolates that side of the loop and the sidings, the loop shunt doesnt need to be isolated so thats shown as seperate on the diagram, on the right is the controller plug, this is being reused from Halfmoon Colliery, an AMR handheld controller through a Maplin 4 pin DIN plug, this panel will be fitted by those hinges to the side of a box on top of the board about the gap currently is that i havent put on yet, a latch will be put on the top of the panel so the panel can be opened to do wiring, the face of the panel will be vertical and be set in from the board edge so the switches dont protrude so they dont get knocked in transit, the panel box will be hidden from the "scene" in a building, the station masters house for exmple Deffors (40) by Sam, on Flickr The last bit of board to put on, but before that im glueing in lengths of 5mm x 30mm baton for it to sit on to prevent sagging in the unsupported areas Deffors (42) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) the gap has been filled, this was done yesterday, this morning, the points have been laid, they were glued down with PVA,the end chairs of each point were pinned down and brass screws used for the rail ends on the board joint, holes were drilled next to the points for the wire which they have then been fed through. the card base for most of the loop has now been laid as well Deffors (46) by Sam, on Flickr On the loop shunt, the card has been laid and the sleeper marking drawn on, the rail has been cut and filed, the holes are for dropper wires. back when i cut the sleepers for the points a year ago, i also cut up a load of standard length sleepers for the layout, i put them away ready to use, below is the sleepers needed for this section of track Deffors (45) by Sam, on Flickr Edited February 21, 2017 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 The sleepers on the loop shunt now glued down and Chairs have been fed onto the rails, the card base through the station now has the sleeper markings up to the board join and the brass screws in on either side of the join. and after the sleepers were marked, i could drill the dropper wire holes between them Deffors (47) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (48) by Sam, on Flickr the card has been laid through to the fiddleyard and the brass screws for that track end are also in, the card for the horse dock has been cut but not glued down Deffors (49) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 track now laid. the end chairs and at every 4th chair in between are nailed down with OO track pins through holes drilled through the outside of the chairs and a dab of superglue one both sides of all the chairs Deffors (51) by Sam, on Flickr marking out the sleepers also means i can mark out the alignment of the point rodding Deffors (50) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Track now laid through the right half of the loop, the rail ends on the left still need filing back to match the board join. because of the sleeper spacing, the end screws have ended up inside a sleeper, i can get around this by grinding back the screw heads with the dremal to the rail foot width and cut a chair in half and glue over each side Deffors (52) by Sam, on Flickr The droppers are short lengths of copper core bent and soldered to the rail underneath, the droppers have also been fitted to the previous length of track as well Deffors (53) by Sam, on Flickr with the track pins that inevitably get bent i used them to pin down the point wires Deffors (54) by Sam, on Flickr Edited February 23, 2017 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shez Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Finally found the thread Sam. Looking good. A lot easier to move about than Green Ayre! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 A lot easier to move about than Green Ayre! definitely, but its going to be tricky getting the boards around the bottom of the stairs here in my house for when i need to get it out for a show, i haven't tried it yet though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Looking good so far how will you operate the points? I'm at a similar stage of tracklaying with my layout, albeit oo and peco track and not sure which method to use to operate my points. Thanks. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 hi Steve, im going to use the same method i used on my last layout, a 3 way switches from Maplin, positioned at the front of the board, drill a hole in the switch handle for the point rod and wire up the stock rails and the frog to the switch wires A & B are the stock rails and C is the frog, so when you switch the point it changes which stock rail the frog is wired to, the blades are permanently wired to the stock rails depending on what kind of points your using an which kind of switch method you use will determine how you wire up the stock rails, frog and blades 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 next section of track laid and soldered in Deffors (56) by Sam, on Flickr a blockk ahs been glued onto the front of the sector plate as a handle Deffors (55) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Thanks. That is along the lines of how I want to do it although I might try to fit a peco switch somehow. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 (edited) as mentioned before about hiding the screws, ive done most of them now the half chairs are on for the sleeper above the board join and the inside halfs for the sleeper below. Also ive ground back the screws on the point ends ont he left so they can hide inside the ballast Deffors (57) by Sam, on Flickr Edited February 25, 2017 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 last bit of the loop laid Deffors (58) by Sam, on Flickr Last night the frame for the panel box was put together, bed slat cut down to 20mm wide and half lapped on the cornners, the panel itself is 2mm styrene fitted onto little Wilko's hinges. sides of the box are cut from the board top offcuts joined with wooden baton, glue and screws. it is shown here in about the position it will be fixed down to, after I drill out wires holes in the board for it. the size of the box is not just determined by the panel but also that the inside is big enough inside to keep the hand held controller in Deffors (59) by Sam, on Flickr and the panel open for doing the wiring Deffors (60) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Although i planned before hand to have enough chairs, ive ended up a little bit short so ive shared the remaining chairs between the sidings and the horse dock and the rest will be filled with peco flexi track, in regard to the sidings, i was going to use fexi track anyway for most of sidings as theyre going to be covered up under the goods yard surface. Here is the horse dock, the stantions between the sleepers have been cut to alter the spacing to match my liking, the chairs have been fixed down in the usual way, track pins and superglue, and the peco sleepers are stuck down with UHU and a track pin through the end sleeper. eventually it will be ballasted, painted and weathered to blend it all together Deffors (61) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now