Hornby Princess Coronation Class (Duchess)

[G-BOAF]

1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:

Interesting that you've posted this picture of the real City of Birmingham to show the fastening of both the nameplate and crest. I went to look at the loco as well to get a steer on how to do this on a model.

 

I'm currently looking at putting plates on two older "Cities", but the issue is the same, namely the lack of surface area for both nameplate and crest to grip. On one loco I've cut away the moulded boiler band so that the nameplate sits between the cuts, on another I've kept the moulded nameplate from Hornby in place and glued the new one on top. This will be "City of Coventry", with crest, and I've glued some thin pasticard behind the etched crest that will then sit on the moulded nameplate and hopefully adhere.

 

This isn't straightforward at all.

 

John.

 

My plan is to remove the Hornby plastic plate, mount the etched plate on some 100gsm paper (plate only, not crest), leaving a gap in the paper for the boiler band. This also makes up for the fact that I find etched plates are actually a little TOO thin compared to the prototype. I will then paint the plate and paper edge in Hornby brunswick green.

 

My plan is to use part of the fine etch fret in a U-shaped glued onto the back of the crest (and also painted green) to form the bracket. I plan on the bracket-boiler interface being a dry fit and don't plan on using glue on the bracket and the boiler as there is risk of spillage in this exposed area.

 

Thats the idea - how it works  in practice, and when I get round to it, is another matter...

I need to de-chip the loco and sort out some flash on the tank filler plate that is pushing out the tender sides first!

Edited June 30, 2021 by G-BOAF

[John Tomlinson]

29 minutes ago, G-BOAF said:

 

My plan is to remove the Hornby plastic plate, mount the etched plate on some 100gsm paper (plate only, not crest), leaving a gap in the paper for the boiler band. This also makes up for the fact that I find etched plates are actually a little TOO thin compared to the prototype. I will then paint the plate and paper edge in Hornby brunswick green.

 

My plan is to use part of the fine etch fret in a U-shaped glued onto the back of the crest (and also painted green) to form the bracket. I plan on the bracket-boiler interface being a dry fit and don't plan on using glue on the bracket and the boiler as there is risk of spillage in this exposed area.

 

Thats the idea - how it works  in practice, and when I get round to it, is another matter...

I need to de-chip the loco and sort out some flash on the tank filler plate that is pushing out the tender sides first!

Thanks for the reply.

 

I agree that the etched plates are too thin, although the Hornby plastic jobs are too fat, and this shows when you glue the etched plate on top!

 

I've glued some plasticard on the back of the crests for my "City of Coventry" and may try to file a curve in the back so as to give some base to stick to the boiler side. My crests are separate to the nameplate whereas it sounds as if yours are not.

 

I use varnish as an adhesive for all this kind of work, it may sometimes not quite work properly and need redoing, but at least there's no permanent damage if any of it spreads too much.

 

John.

 

 

[G-BOAF]

5 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

Thanks for the reply.

 

I agree that the etched plates are too thin, although the Hornby plastic jobs are too fat, and this shows when you glue the etched plate on top!

 

I've glued some plasticard on the back of the crests for my "City of Coventry" and may try to file a curve in the back so as to give some base to stick to the boiler side. My crests are separate to the nameplate whereas it sounds as if yours are not.

 

I use varnish as an adhesive for all this kind of work, it may sometimes not quite work properly and need redoing, but at least there's no permanent damage if any of it spreads too much.

 

John.

 

 

Who is your plate/crest supplier? Im aa bit disapointed by the definition of my Birmingham Crests from fox and wondering about alternatives....

 

Would be interested in seeing a close up of your crests as well...

[John Tomlinson]

15 hours ago, G-BOAF said:

Who is your plate/crest supplier? Im aa bit disapointed by the definition of my Birmingham Crests from fox and wondering about alternatives....

 

Would be interested in seeing a close up of your crests as well...

Ancient plates from LFC, no longer available I suspect. Bought probably secondhand at a Show ages ago for that "one day" plan that has now actually arrived! I'll try to do a picture later.

 

John.

[MikeParkin65]

Quite happy with the Fox plate on mine. Agree the city crest is more representative than replica but fine for my purposes and infinitely better than the Hornby printed versions. Mine are held in place with a couple of dabs of Glue and Glaze. No need for filing down the boiler bands, the blobs clear the band in any case. 

[John Tomlinson]

57 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

Quite happy with the Fox plate on mine. Agree the city crest is more representative than replica but fine for my purposes and infinitely better than the Hornby printed versions. Mine are held in place with a couple of dabs of Glue and Glaze. No need for filing down the boiler bands, the blobs clear the band in any case. 

That's a good tip Mike.

 

My LFC City of Coventry crests are very similar, a bit representative but more than adequate for my eyesight.

 

John.

[tractionman]

1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:

That's a good tip Mike.

 

My LFC City of Coventry crests are very similar, a bit representative but more than adequate for my eyesight.

 

John.

 

Just the other day I passed by the "City of Coventry" nameplate and crest, still on the wall at Coventry station after all these years, hope it stays there or is placed somewhere safe and sound in the new station being built next to the 'old' new station:

 

 

cheers,

 

Keith

[atom3624]

There are several which are listed separately, but which are effectively the same.

 

Bottom line, you need 3mm bore, 11.3mm diameter and 21 teeth.

 

Just fitted one to my Coronation - very tight over the splines, slides easily over the shaft.  I gently tapped into a nicely centred position - runs perfectly - before I connect up the coupling rods - no tight spots at all - quick battery test.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

I recently renamed / renumbered R2340 Golden Plover into 60009 Union of South Africa, but now I've done the same to R3119 Duchess of Abercorn, renaming her 6233 Duchess of Sutherland - being as I remember her, and riding on her footplate at Bressingham Steam Gardens in the mid-70's as a teenager.

 

Al.

[MikeParkin65]

11 hours ago, atom3624 said:

I recently renamed / renumbered R2340 Golden Plover into 60009 Union of South Africa, but now I've done the same to R3119 Duchess of Abercorn, renaming her 6233 Duchess of Sutherland - being as I remember her, and riding on her footplate at Bressingham Steam Gardens in the mid-70's as a teenager.

 

Al.

Have you varnished it as well? The maroon looks a LOT better than standard Hornby on this older Duchess 

[atom3624]

@MikeParkin65Yes, I have.

I use this stuff:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383672856495?var=652075410491

It's a learning process, and I'm impatient, but I find it miles better than Humbrol proprietary rattle cans.

I've now very lightly 'smoked' her around the chimney - barely noticeable (since those photos).

 

She was always gleaming at Bressingham, but after a couple of hours' running, she'd have a light smattering of soot.

 

Al.

[MikeParkin65]

1 hour ago, atom3624 said:

@MikeParkin65Yes, I have.

I use this stuff:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383672856495?var=652075410491

It's a learning process, and I'm impatient, but I find it miles better than Humbrol proprietary rattle cans.

I've now very lightly 'smoked' her around the chimney - barely noticeable (since those photos).

 

She was always gleaming at Bressingham, but after a couple of hours' running, she'd have a light smattering of soot.

 

Al.

Certainly got a good even coverage there - looks as good as my 46229 from Locomotion!

[atom3624]

One more just now - added the little side windows as well.

'Smattering' of soot barely visible, just doesn't look 'too clean'.

 

Thanks for the comments.  I admit I'm still learning, and it's always easy to put too much on ... t-shirt or 3 on that one!!

 

Al.

[farren]

 Something I noticed between the new plastic model Coronation and Hornby Double O Coronation and was wondering if it’s something that is correct. There’s a line running along the top of firebox on the Plastic model but on the metal model. 

Edited August 30, 2021 by farren

[k22009]

17 hours ago, farren said:

 Something I noticed between the new plastic model Coronation and Hornby Double O Coronation and was wondering if it’s something that is correct. There’s a line running along the top of firebox on the Plastic model but on the metal model. 

 

See this photo of Duchess of Sutherland from an earlier kitbuilding thread by PAD.

 

 

Dave

[farren]

16 minutes ago, k22009 said:

 

See this photo of Duchess of Sutherland from an earlier kitbuilding thread by PAD.

 

 

Dave

so what your saying (showing) is the all new expensive Double O model is WRONG!

Edited August 31, 2021 by farren

[Pete the Elaner]

18 minutes ago, farren said:

so what your saying (showing) is the all new expensive Double O model is WRONG!

Looks like a choice:

The die cast model with no seam is wrong.

The plastic one has too big a seam.

 

Btw, I like the message in your signature about proper engines wearing crimson in their careers. 

[drt7uk]

On 30/06/2021 at 12:03, atom3624 said:

 

Hi Mike,

With normal coaching stock there is no issue - I have a 9-coach higher detail (sprung buffers) Hornby LMS train and all will haul without problem.  Royal Scots included.

ALL of my new-tool streamlined Coronations have required various amounts of 'surgery'.  R3677 Duchess of Hamilton was shorting across the sand pipes, after an earlier short through excessive solder in the sprung contacts (from the factory, Hornby warranty repaired) - to the base plate - was located.

 

Both 'blue' ones (Alexandra and Coronation) I have, have both required replacement of the final drive gear.

I will obviously trial the brass gear into Coronation, and the one reserve is ready - same for Black 5's, Royal Scots and all Coronations - previous and current.  I suspect it is the same for A3/A4 and even rebuilt Merchant Navy's.

 

I do admit that the additional weight will probably have exacerbated the experience, but was necessary to permit them to more realistically haul the 9-coach Coronation Scot train recently introduced (with lights / pickup wipers adding drag).  This is probably equivalent to perhaps 13 'normal' non-lit coaches.

 

In contrast, my earlier City of Birmingham streamliner has no such issues.  Being red, I haven't had her hauling the Coronation Scot rake in fairness. Yes, she has added weight, as I do to all 8P class Pacifics - and smaller if they appear excessively light.

 

I don't have a habit of slamming onto full, but will occasionally fairly substantially increase power, if I see a stall, momentarily, to get the train moving without the HoG.

 

Al.

 

Hi Al @atom3624, may I ask, how did you add weights to your streamlined Coronation Class? Is it straightforward to take off the chassis?

[atom3624]

1 hour ago, drt7uk said:

 

Hi Al @atom3624, may I ask, how did you add weights to your streamlined Coronation Class? Is it straightforward to take off the chassis?

New type have the 4-pin DCC plug you need to carefully remove from the tender, then remove one of the drawbar screws to separate the loco.

Follow the instructions to remove the body.

I have 0.5mm thick lead sheeting which I simply cut, shape to avoid wheels, motor, chassis and superglue once shaped and trimmed onto the inside of the body.

Al.

[rogerzilla]

Just bought a very cheap, claimed to be unused, R2179 streamliner.  Needed a lot of work to get it running - tender coupling prongs were bent double, the bogie derailed insufferably and it sounded terrible.  Bogie problem was back-to-back of the wheels being too narrow, so easy fix.  Lubed and ran it for an hour, and it's as smooth as my non-streamlined Duchess now.  It was appallingly packed by the eBay seller and I'm amazed it survived.

[atom3624]

The 'previous model', like the one you've just purchased is an excellent runner and I was going to mention B2B on the bogie - I've had that before.

If you get used to running prototypical loads, and run her harder, the main drive gear can wear - option alloy or brass ones are available which are miles better.

 

Glad you enjoy it.

Al.

[faulcon1]

I have a Hornby Streamlined Coronation well Coronation herself a 2001 model R2206 and I've be looking at the latest offering and I can see some flaws in it. 

Firstly the lining on the lower tender side is in the wrong place. Hornby have put the lining on the lower tender just above the axle boxes but on the real Coronation it's above that where the tender sides meet the tender frame. Hornby have also printed that line vertically on the end of the tender frame but no such strip is on the real Coronation.

Secondly on the 2001 model there are four turned brass safety valves but on the latest they appear to be four plastic safety valves. 

Thirdly the pipework in the cab has been painted unlike the 2001 version but it's been painted or printed in a brass colour which is fine for hand wheels but the pipework would have been copper not brass.

Fourthly the centers of the main driving wheels seem to have been painted white as has part of the wheel rim. But on the real loco that would be polished bare steel giving a silver colour not white.

I know this is maximum knit picking but this latest version of Coronation is not a 50 pound model it's very close to 200 pounds. It seems to me that either Hornby didn't do much research of that their Chinese factory stuffed up and it was too late to make the changes.

[MoonM]

Anyone have an unstreamlined model with smoke deflectors. If so, does it look possible to remove the smoke deflectors? Wonder about impact on boiler handrails or other detail behind them? 

[atom3624]

I have a couple of previous generation 'SD' models - moulded roof, but glazing and lamp brackets.

Handrails do not go to front of smokebox, and there'll be a couple of tiny slots where the blinkers locate.

I wanted to do this with a DoS 6233 to make it like I remembered at Bressingham, but renamed an Abercorn I think.

Al.

[Farang]

When was the non-streamlined model revised with the rigid pony truck? I think the later models have more detail on the front frames? This would help with identifying models I see at shows.