Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[john new]

9 minutes ago, 33C said:

Finer worm and more teeth on the drive gear, I think would give more controllable performance. Maybe these are available as spare parts and then swap 'em over! 

But then you have the problems of quartering etc.  Perhaps easier to try something like the Branchlines replacement chassis kit, but as you take bits off and add more 3rd party bits on does it then still exist as bash? How much swapping out and in is in the spirit of a bash? 

 

Edited May 21, 2022 by john new
Two words had been left out - now in. A sentence bash.

[33C]

10 minutes ago, john new said:

But then you have the problems of quartering etc.  Perhaps easier to try something like the Branchlines replacement chassis kit, but as take bits off and more 3rd party bits on does it then still exist as bash? How much swapping is in the spirit of a bash? 

You know me, it's got to be cheapo! Quartering isn't a dark art. I draw a large "plus" sign on a bit of card, and if solid back wheels, make a score mark on the backs above the crank pin holes. Then line up the wheel on the card, look straight down and put the other,with axle,through the chassis, at 45°, to line up with that line. Close up the wheels in a vice ensuring the crankpin holes are above one jaw and the other is to the side of the other jaw. A piece of card, to the right gauge, is put between the wheels so you don't go too far. 99.9% success rate......🤓  

[john new]

1 minute ago, 33C said:

You know me, it's got to be cheapo! Quartering isn't a dark art. I draw a large "plus" sign on a bit of card, and if solid back wheels, make a score mark on the backs above the crank pin holes. Then line up the wheel on the card, look straight down and put the other,with axle,through the chassis, at 45°, to line up with that line. Close up the wheels in a vice ensuring the crankpin holes are above one jaw and the other is to the side of the other jaw. A piece of card, to the right gauge, is put between the wheels so you don't go too far. 99.9% success rate......🤓  

I have done it before, but many haven't and possibly don't even appreciate the relevance.

[J-Mo Arts]

20 hours ago, Edwardian said:

 

Well, we seem to have no takers.

 

Online I have read reports of people getting good slow running, but there is no way to judge how slow or, if there has been a change, or, of so, when it was applied by Hornby.  The chassis pictures I've found all seem to show the standard motor mounting position with the single gear (the gearing seeming to be the original problem). 

 

One comment I read was that the Bill and Ben chassis was the only one tamed by Hornby.  I have a dim recollection of a similar claim in relation to the o/s cylinder 'Smokey Joe'.

 

I am, however, finding it hard to unearth anything sufficiently detailed, specific, concrete or reliable. 

 

Perhaps in true forum fashion, I should have made a bold and unsupported assertion one way or the other, relying on the inability of some to resist posting a correction!

 

I just wondered if anyone actually knew, of had experience of chassis of this type of recent manufacture? 

I have a slower running Smokey Joe, I think it's from one that says EKR or something on the tank. It runs nicely, not fast at all! I haven't looked for an inside cylinder version but perhaps the more recent diesels are better runners? 

[RJS1977]

21 hours ago, john new said:

But then you have the problems of quartering etc.  Perhaps easier to try something like the Branchlines replacement chassis kit, but as you take bits off and add more 3rd party bits on does it then still exist as bash? How much swapping out and in is in the spirit of a bash? 

 

 

When my original Hornby 101 tank failed a few years ago (stripped gears), it turned out to be easier/simpler to replace the chassis with one picked up off the 7mm NGA 2nd hand stall than to obtain and replace the gears.

 

However it does mean it's now almost as 'original' as Flying Scotsman! ;-)

[Paleopotato09]

Most of the new Hornby Bagnall diesel shunters and 06s are slow running so you could use those for slow running 

[Dunsignalling]

Also, if looking for cheapies for conversion, there's a distinct possibility that someone has bought an "improved" model to upgrade an existing "bash" and disposed of the old one in the new body/box.

 

Only foolproof route seems to be to buy new....

 

John

[Nova Scotian]

I can't remember when the 0-4-0 chassis/motor was updated, but I think the 0-6-0 was around 2015. After then they run much more slowly and with better control - not even fast enough to fly off radius 2 corners!

I have an 0-4-0 percy that's post 2014 and a thomas 0-6-0 from then too for my kids - I don't know exactly when they were built, only that it was after my divorce which was the end of 2014! 

 

I'm sure the pugbashers here will know much better at what point they were updated - and some (corbs, for example) make them much more controllable through lower voltages and RC.

[brumtb]

34 minutes ago, Nova Scotian said:

I can't remember when the 0-4-0 chassis/motor was updated, but I think the 0-6-0 was around 2015. After then they run much more slowly and with better control - not even fast enough to fly off radius 2 corners!

I have an 0-4-0 percy that's post 2014 and a thomas 0-6-0 from then too for my kids - I don't know exactly when they were built, only that it was after my divorce which was the end of 2014! 

 

I'm sure the pugbashers here will know much better at what point they were updated - and some (corbs, for example) make them much more controllable through lower voltages and RC.

And DCC apparently:  Taming the Pocket Rocket - DCC fitting Hornby 0-4-0 - DCC Fitting Guides - RMweb   

Tony

[melmerby]

The "Bill & Ben" Par style saddle tanks have a different version of the basic 0-4-0/0-6-0 chassis, than my "101"

The motor is horizontal instead of angled and has an intermediate gear to give an extra reduction.

My 101: SS 200E 0-4-0.pdf

 

Bill & Ben: ss-265-238(1).pdf

 

 

 

[RedGemAlchemist]

On 21/05/2022 at 11:45, Edwardian said:

 

Well, we seem to have no takers.

 

Online I have read reports of people getting good slow running, but there is no way to judge how slow or, if there has been a change, or, of so, when it was applied by Hornby.  The chassis pictures I've found all seem to show the standard motor mounting position with the single gear (the gearing seeming to be the original problem). 

 

One comment I read was that the Bill and Ben chassis was the only one tamed by Hornby.  I have a dim recollection of a similar claim in relation to the o/s cylinder 'Smokey Joe'.

 

I am, however, finding it hard to unearth anything sufficiently detailed, specific, concrete or reliable. 

 

Perhaps in true forum fashion, I should have made a bold and unsupported assertion one way or the other, relying on the inability of some to resist posting a correction!

 

I just wondered if anyone actually knew, of had experience of chassis of this type of recent manufacture? 

Well, the Smokey Joe to Y9 conversion I have is very slow, but that's because I replaced the gears myself.

[cypherman]

3 hours ago, RedGemAlchemist said:

Well, the Smokey Joe to Y9 conversion I have is very slow, but that's because I replaced the gears myself.

Hi Red,

It would be nice to know how you did that and what gears you used.   :)

[brumtb]

On 21/05/2022 at 11:45, Edwardian said:

 

Well, we seem to have no takers.

 

Online I have read reports of people getting good slow running, but there is no way to judge how slow or, if there has been a change, or, of so, when it was applied by Hornby.  The chassis pictures I've found all seem to show the standard motor mounting position with the single gear (the gearing seeming to be the original problem). 

 

One comment I read was that the Bill and Ben chassis was the only one tamed by Hornby.  I have a dim recollection of a similar claim in relation to the o/s cylinder 'Smokey Joe'.

 

I am, however, finding it hard to unearth anything sufficiently detailed, specific, concrete or reliable. 

 

Perhaps in true forum fashion, I should have made a bold and unsupported assertion one way or the other, relying on the inability of some to resist posting a correction!

 

I just wondered if anyone actually knew, of had experience of chassis of this type of recent manufacture? 

As a test I've bought one of the current models, R30051  0-4-0 Diesel Shunter.  Out of the box it runs very slowly on an old H&M Powermaster and is almost silent. It is responsive from about 2 notches on the control knob.  I haven't got enough analogue connected track to find its top speed but am not really interested in that if its low speed is good and this seems excellent for shunting and fiddle yard to terminus type work.  I only want the chassis which is shown below.  I'm not sure when this chassis was first fitted, hence the purchase of a current model but the instructions seem to suggest that all the current Railroad 0-4-0s are fitted with the same one. 

 

 

Tony

[Edwardian]

2 minutes ago, brumtb said:

As a test I've bought one of the current models, R30051  0-4-0 Diesel Shunter.  Out of the box it runs very slowly on an old H&M Powermaster and is almost silent. It is responsive from about 2 notches on the control knob.  I haven't got enough analogue connected track to find its top speed but am not really interested in that if its low speed is good and this seems excellent for shunting and fiddle yard to terminus type work.  I only want the chassis which is shown below.  I'm not sure when this chassis was first fitted, hence the purchase of a current model but the instructions seem to suggest that all the current Railroad 0-4-0s are fitted with the same one. 

 

 

Tony

 

Thanks very much for that, which is reassuring.

 

I've taken pot luck on the Bay Of Fleas because I read someone online reporting the Hogarth Stone 0-4-0 ran slowly.  That is explained if fitted with the same chassis you bought.

 

Fingers crossed then!

 

I'll let you know how it turns out.

[GeraldH]

25 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Thanks very much for that, which is reassuring.

 

I've taken pot luck on the Bay Of Fleas because I read someone online reporting the Hogarth Stone 0-4-0 ran slowly.  That is explained if fitted with the same chassis you bought.

 

Fingers crossed then!

 

I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

I think i used a Hogarth Stone chassis in one of my BNR locos and it does have the slower running chassis.  As far as I know all the current Hornby 0-4-0s now have the slower running chassis.  The gears look the same on both old and new and one can only assume something has been done to the motor.  Be careful picking up second hand ones though as some people are selling the new bodies on the old chassis after upgrading their old 0-4-0s.

[Neil]

Triang diesel bash anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Northmoor]

That is SO much more "realistic" than the original 0-4-0 @Neil.  Do tell what the chassis is made from and how you made up the outside frames.

[Clan Mcadder]

The chassis looks like the model power/ tyco switcher thingy . 

[Ruston]

14 hours ago, Neil said:

Triang diesel bash anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That looks almost like a North British 4wDH.

[Neil]

19 hours ago, Northmoor said:

That is SO much more "realistic" than the original 0-4-0 @Neil.  Do tell what the chassis is made from and how you made up the outside frames.

 

Thank you. The chassis is a Model Power (Porter Hustler) one. I bought a load of these when they were about a tenner a pop, several went under tram skirt fitted Airfix Drewery bodies, one became the R&ER Kerr Stuart and this one was chopped as an experiment to see if it worked, it does. The outside frames are rectangles of 40thou plasticard, black so scuffs won't show, axleboxes MJT heavy duty, roller bearing, wagon examples and the springs cut from spare Parkside underframe components.

 

5 hours ago, Ruston said:

That looks almost like a North British 4wDH.

 

Thank you, I'd noticed a long while ago that the Triang body had some visual cues from the North British shunters. I haven't done as much as I might to bring it more to scale but I believe that there's a kit (Judith Edge?) if a scale model is desired. This is more of a play to see what could be made of the model. There's an excellent image of the inspiration here which shows how wanting my hack really is.

[WD0-6-0]

My Nelliebosh is finally at a stage I'm happy to share so here it is. It started off as a green 27 and the chassis is that of a Dapol B4. The trailing wheel, I've no idea, came from the spares box. This was largely made up as I went along and there's still a little left to do but I'm pretty happy with how it's currently looking!

First post on here for a while! Modelling has had to take a back seat for the last couple of years but as this little loco shows I've been ticking away at it when I can

[33C]

Very neat, hint of Z4 as well!

[Johnson044]

On 16/03/2022 at 18:30, 33C said:

Well, i started this in anticipation of the competition! Metropolitan B class 4-4-0. Again, Hornby Holden Tank based, of which,not much remains! Hope you like it... 

Changed the wheels for Triang, solid back, Princess wheels with the flanges reduced so can use the original pick-ups, ground away the motor to accept the larger diameter rims. Offered up the plan to get a feel for what goes where and what comes off! New boiler tube (from cake supports!) and sprue and balsa details. Cylinders mounted to accept the shortened rods. Then a "rivetting" evening. Found some brass and white-metal buffers. An original Rovex bogie with B12 bogie wheels fits admirably, secured with a self-tapper into a balsa block under. Then painted Humbrol Satin Red enamel with cream lining with black sharpie inner band. Cooker wire copper piping and piano wire compounding control rods. Hand drawn crests. Finishing touch, a crew and interchangeable destination boards!  

I really, really like this.   Captures a B class beautifully. The NLR tank is very fine too.

[Mr Ken Shabby]

Hi,

  I'm normally  on New Railway  Modellers Forum, but having watched this thread for the passed 5 years, I thought I'd post this. 

It's  the Railroad Bagnall , fitted with a  narrowed Class 06 cab and fitted to a Pug chassis.  The cab steps came from a  Triang Jinty body. 

Ken

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I was playing with this little engine today and thought this has probably been lost in the great photo famine of 2021 I thought I would repost it here. It is a Hornby Pug chassis with a scratch built footplate, superstructure and cab. The boiler is from a Lima Crab, New bigger buffers, steam valves and whistle from my spares box. The conrods and piston block are from a Triang Hall. Lots of fun making it during lockdown.

Edited July 29, 2022 by cypherman