hayfield Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Rich This is a similar kit which I bought off eBay. Has a sheet metal body as per a Jamieson/Eames model with whitemetal castings. Has had some extra detail added and used a Wills whitemetal chassis. (quite often loco and coach kits of this era were sold as body kits so the builder could choose between RTR chassis/bogies or kits) Doubt if it has ever run as the coupling rod holes on the wheels have not been drilled out, no gear on the driving wheel and no sign of pickups. In my spares box I do have a set of coupling rods and a choice of an X03 or MRRc 5 pole motors and parts to make the pickups The Wills chassis seems to have been altered making it quite weak, I think I have a replacement whtemetal chassis, might even have a Wills Finecast early etched chassis without brake gear. The body certainly needs a repaint, the early cast smokebox door also lets it down, I think Once my new railway room is built and my books and railway parts are unpacked I will decide whether to keep it as a retro model or finish it to a higher specification By the way it cost me £27.45 inc postage, would take two or three hours to fit the crankpins, motor and pickups ( repaint a few hours longer), just to get it up and running. I have all missing parts in my spares collection. Just an example of what is available from now and then from either eBay or s/h stalls at shows 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 7, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks I have no idea how the Jamieson kit will end up yet! Still plenty of time I guess before i have to make any decisions. Little bit more progress - a second spacer soldered on one frame then put back into the poppy box and the other frame soldered on. Need to turn it over and solder the other side of the spacers and of course plenty more cleaning up of excess solder! It really doesn't help that the spacers are slightly curved but the axle holes are square to each other, and the bogie mounting points are as close to square as I can possibly make them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Rich Please remember these kits are of their time, those who are going to super detail would throw the chassis away and use a new etched type. Nothing wrong with what you are doing as you have better equipment (tools, jigs etc) than was available when the kits were in production. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2017 I don't think I'll be going down the super-detail route. I want to keep as much of the original kit as possible, with perhaps a few modern add-ons but still keep the vintage look. Ordered a gearbox - went for a hiflier one with 45:1 ratio - so it won't be able to achieve a scale top speed befitting an A1 but will hopefully be able to do a decent turn of speed as well as haul a decent amount of stock. No stock at present so got to wait a couple of weeks so I might ignore the chassis for a bit - maybe even crack on with the Class 15 instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2017 This is my plan for the contacts for the BTH Type 1 - initially they hung down too low as it was below railhead height so hit points, but filing away some of the casting raised it enough, even allowing for a slim piece of plasticard as an insulation piece. Colour it black and it should be pretty well hidden. All held on with the same screw that holds the frame together so quite neat I've filed one end of one bogie - I'll do the others as and when. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 12, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12, 2017 So 0.5mm plasticard is too thick as an insulation spacer. It pushes the contact down to a teensy bit below rail height so it *just* rubs the points. I don't have anything thinner so have ordered some 0.25mm. Looking at the motor as well, the motor mounts that came with the kit are whitemetal and suit a DS10 so I am going to try and make something. Not entirely sure what yet but I have the beginning of an idea! I want to make it so the motor is easily changeable. This is the un-powered bogie after some tweaks and it looks like I should be able to power both. The top part is facing the wrong way, it needs to face inboard. This is with the side covers lightly clamped in place - the contacts are very visible unfortunately but painted black should be ok. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 16, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2017 (edited) Not much going on at the moment - work keeping me busy but also waiting for bits to arrive. That's the problem with starting again after so many years - I don't have any scrap bits etc.! Does anyone else have trouble with contact from Markits? I've exchanged a couple of emails with them about wheels but now I want to order I'm not getting a response and noone answers the phone during the times it says to ring on the website I know I have the original wheels so not being held up as such but frustrating! Anyway - I have tried one thing. My first bit of white metal soldering. I don't think I cleaned it up enough first, but it doesn't look too bad - I bought half a tender kit to practice on before trying it on something important. Related to that can someone reccommend a whitemetal solder that has a higher melting point than 70C as that's all I have a the moment and want something higher. I can only find a DCC Concepts one (there's that company again!) but would like to know if there are better ones? Edited June 16, 2017 by Bucoops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Carrs 100 degree, Phoenix paints who are near you can supply along with other solders I would stick with 70 degree as can be un-assembled by holding over a steaming kettle, this is very handy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2017 Thanks but I like the idea of the main structure being one temperature (and hopefully reasonably easy to assemble) then the fiddly bits a lower temp. Never heard of phoenix paints but have ordered some of the 100deg from them. Carrs rings a bell from way back when, think I had some of their flux. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Rich Carrs was a small business selling solders, fluxes and other liquids for differing jobs, along with their weathering powders. The business was brought by C&L some time ago. C&L recently was sold on, mostly to Phil Read who will continue the brand, with Carrs products going to Phoenix paints, who will have the correct shade of paint to finish your locos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2017 Can't even fax an order to Markits - fax machine doesn't pick up. Last option is to post it. Ugh. What a way to run a railroad! Been trying to order for 2 weeks now... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Can't even fax an order to Markits - fax machine doesn't pick up. Last option is to post it. Ugh. What a way to run a railroad! Been trying to order for 2 weeks now... Try phoning him, mostly he is in the factory part with the machine whirring away, try different times of the day, you have to catch him whilst he is in his office Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2017 Try phoning him, mostly he is in the factory part with the machine whirring away, try different times of the day, you have to catch him whilst he is in his office 7 times I think I've tried calling - different times of day but always within the days and times specified. However I have just had an email response so back on track hopefully Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 7 times I think I've tried calling - different times of day but always within the days and times specified. However I have just had an email response so back on track hopefully Mark has his own ways of doing things, very nice person when you can get into a conversation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2017 Oh I'm sure that's the case. Just don't get why he was exchanging emails all the way through my queries and then when it came to ordering it all went quiet. Never mind, hopefully sorted now! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2017 Gearbox has arrived I can carry on with the A1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 26, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2017 Gearbox built, straightforward enough but bit of a shame you have to put washers in the axle location - not too bad when the box is out the model but going to be very fiddly for my fat fingers! Took 4 attempts to get them in for this pic Looks like the gearbox will work fine - without any cutting of the body to fit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Rich You will spend ages with the slitting disc cutting the unwanted internal sections out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 28, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2017 I'm hoping not to have to chop anything out Markits stuff has arrived - couple of issues with the wrong axles and the pricing not matching what I was quoted unfortunately. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 I think you will find it easier once you have soldered the fire box to the boiler to cut the bulkhead back if it is the same construction as the 3 LMS tender locos. If not they that will save a bit of time and effort Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 29, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2017 Got a bit more done. I think it took about 25 minutes to get the firebox piece aligned and clamped, and 30 seconds to solder it. Tried my patience it did! But pretty happy with how it is. Now I'm a bit happier with my ability to tin without using too much solder I've started the first valance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 30, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) Starting to look a bit like a loco However, who can spot the error? Oh and I've found the kit is missing two pieces - there should be two strips of 1/4" wide brass that you solder to the footplate with holes in for the screws to hold it to the chassis. So have had to buy some strip and an 8BA tap. Forever buying bits! Edited June 30, 2017 by Bucoops 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 30, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2017 I popped open the kit's motion kit as I don't think it will be that long until I have to attack that. If you recall the con rods are just a length of rail drilled for crank pins. The Motion kit is just stamped from plain sheet. There is no fluting (is that the right term). Bit of a shame as whilst the rest of the kit is basic it would stand out if the rods and motion were like that so I think I need to go shopping again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 30, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2017 Another quick query - the wheels from markits have some snazzy etched balance weights and axle nut covers. What's the recommended method to fit these? The balance weights presumably permanently, but the axle nut covers should be removable? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 30, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) I've fixed the error in the image above. Will leave more time to guess what it was. Another fiddly bit done - 4 parts make up this component: Which then fits here (not soldered in yet): However, when I put the front bufferbeam on I thought I *may* have to trim some of the footplate - now I've assembled this part I now know I need to move the bufferbeam forward and then fill the gap between the back of the beam and the valance. Not sure what to use for that. Still using too much solder I think - this is proving the hardest part for me! Edited June 30, 2017 by Bucoops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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