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IZA Cargowaggon twin van from Revolution Trains


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  • RMweb Gold

well done revolution team they are excellent models

i would only say that the bodies are a bit lose though and don't have a v positive click into place but that doesn't really matter once they are upright and sitting on a layout

 

Tim

Hi Tim,

 

We wanted the bodies to be relatively easy to remove for those customers wishing to remove the weights, or switch batteries over where appropriate.

 

Although once in position they do self-locate to the correct location, I agree the bodies could be a slightly tighter fit and still allow this to happen.

 

As a small number of customers have reported that their models arrived with the bodies slightly dislodged, if there is another run of these models in a few years we will investigate the possibility of tightening the fit.

 

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Ben A.

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  • RMweb Gold

The bodies on mine fit fairy tightly. However the close coupling mechanism came apart the first time that I tried to couple the two halves together and the spring wire dissappeared. However it really isn't needed and I glued the cover to thr coupling mechanism. Ran well all day today.

 

Now weathered but will get a lot more weathering in near future as this is just the first coat done last nght so it could run on Banbury today at the Fareham show.

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  • RMweb Gold

 

Hello all,

 

For anyone who has these models there is a data sheet packed with car A, which is the one with the yellow parking brake wheels on the solebar. The data sheet can be found in the bottom of the box, under the clear vac-formed retailing blister and beneath a thin sheet of plain paper.

 

This has an exploded parts diagram and an email address for spares. If anything is missing, or you lose a small part like a spring - please contact us and we will do our best to help.

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

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One thing that suprised me was the inter-wagon coupler was a screw link. I'd always assumed it was a fixed bar like on the FFA/FGA freightliners. You learn something new every day....

 

Has anyone found a hook and bar type coupling that fits NEM pockets - a bit like Dapol fit to their class 156 DMU? I'd like to be able to split mine between running sessions but want something a little less visible than standard Rapidos or the Dapol dummy knuckles.

 

 

Steven B.

The coupling is a Screw Coupling without hooks. Both ends are pinned to the drawbar. The wagons each have one headless buffer. Completed by the train pipe and a couple of small pipes that join the load weighting valve and brake cylinder of one element to the distributor on the other. There is also a safety hawser between the two elements.

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  • RMweb Gold

My twin ran well the whole weekend on the layout at the Fareham show. However as we quite often do with our other tail lights, we forgot to switch them off Saturday night, so a  number of batteries required changing.

 

I have ordered replacements for those (they take different type to Revolutions) plus some for this wagon from Amazon. All very cheap to buy online.

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I was going to E mail/PM Mike & Ben privately about this but thought public thanks was more appropriate.

 

I received my parcel on Friday and was disappointed to find it only contained 1 wagon rather than the 2 I ordered. I E-mailed Revolution expecting to wait a few days to hear anything but came home this evening to find that the second wagon had arrived with an (unnecessary but appreciated) apology from Ben.

 

For two Guys who do this in their spare time for no gain other than getting models for their layouts (as well as ours) that they were unlikely to see otherwise it really stuck me as fantastic customer service to resolve the issue in 3 days

 

Thank you Ben and Mike, both for the exemplary customer service and for yet another fantastic model.

 

Rob

Edited by Suffolk Rob
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  • RMweb Gold

Received one in the post. Amazing. Although I’ve no N gauge layout, a fabulous souvenir. I remember them coming off the train ferry at Dover when they were brand spanking new. Well done team.

 

Hi Ernie,

 

I'm delighted you like the model - your help in its design and research was beyond measure and I am sure we could not have managed to create this product without you.

 

Many thanks

 

Ben A.

Edited by Ben A
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Hi Ernie,

 

i'm delighted you like the model - your help in its design and research was beyond measure and I am sure we could not have managed to create this product without you.

 

Many thanks

 

Ben A.

Ben “thank you” for the opportunity to give something back to the hobby. Look forward to the next model.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had to buy some of these even though I don't have anywhere to run them right now. Many a Sunday late afternoon visit to Millerhill coincided with the petfood train passing through. Sometimes the up and down services passed each other in the yard.

 

And if you afraid of weathering some were clean. For one run anyway.

 

Thanks guys. Products are great.

 

Cartics anyone?

 

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Is anyone having problems with the wagons running in a large rake? I'm finding that if i run more than 5 or 6 pairs the drag starts to get quite bad, also having trouble on Large radius curved points which is odd as there ok through peco setrack curve ones.

 

I'm trying different formations in case theres a rogue wagon but no difference, also using weighted and non weighted ones.

 

Graham. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Is anyone having problems with the wagons running in a large rake? I'm finding that if i run more than 5 or 6 pairs the drag starts to get quite bad, also having trouble on Large radius curved points which is odd as there ok through peco setrack curve ones.

 

I'm trying different formations in case theres a rogue wagon but no difference, also using weighted and non weighted ones.

 

Graham.

 

Hi Graham,

 

Sorry you're having problems. Taking the weights out usually helps, but you might also want to check the brake blocks. They are very close to the wheels, for optimum appearance, but if very slightly out of whack, or distorted, they can touch the treads and cause drag.

 

If you've checked the brake blocks and are still have some persistent offenders, it may be worth checking the chassis and the wheels. Burrs on the axle pinpoints or a slightly mismoulded axle pocket could also cause problems; in this case we have spares we'd be happy to provide. PM me if that's the case.

 

I am not sure why you're having problems through large radius points; maybe some of the back-to-backs aren't right? Again, happy to replace any rogue wheelsets.

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

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Hi Graham,

 

Sorry you're having problems. Taking the weights out usually helps, but you might also want to check the brake blocks. They are very close to the wheels, for optimum appearance, but if very slightly out of whack, or distorted, they can touch the treads and cause drag.

 

If you've checked the brake blocks and are still have some persistent offenders, it may be worth checking the chassis and the wheels. Burrs on the axle pinpoints or a slightly mismoulded axle pocket could also cause problems; in this case we have spares we'd be happy to provide. PM me if that's the case.

 

I am not sure why you're having problems through large radius points; maybe some of the back-to-backs aren't right? Again, happy to replace any rogue wheelsets.

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

 

 

Hi Ben,

 

 Thanks for the reply, I will check all of the above, not having a moan, just seems odd that there playing up when i run 5 or more pairs.

 

regards 

 

Graham.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...

I was a little late with these, but glad I managed to pick up a rakes worth before they are completely gone. Many thanks to the guys at revolution. Another cracking wagon. 

 

Has anyone else managed to be heavy handed like me and knock the connector back inside the wagon? I can hear it ratteling around inside but can't think of a trick to get it out again. It is my own fault and by no means a complaint, just thought maybe someone has already solved this 'heavy handed' issue. 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi David,

 

As Mike says the body should unclip pretty easily.  If you look at the parts schematic you'll see there is a plate that retains the kinematic coupler arm, and a fine wire spring.  

 

Just refit the kinematic arm and spring and push the retaining plate down.  If it is loose that suggests the glue bond has failed, in which case it is probably best to lock it in place with some plastic weld or similar, being very careful not to get any on the visible bits of the wagon!

 

For the rigid coupler between the wagons the spring isn't really necessary, though it makes sense to have it on the outer wagon.  It is easy to lose, and if you need another, or any of the parts are damaged, PM me as we still have some spares.

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

Edited by Revolution Ben
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Thanks for the advice guys. All fixed :good:

 

I must admit to feeling a bit sheepish when I realized there are such detailed assembly drawings included. I acted like a kid at Christmas when they arrived and got them out the box and lined them up into a rake, then directly to the workbench for weathering......I didn't think to look under the plastic packaging for the instructions :blush:

 

Thanks again and all the best,

Dave 

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