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Wantage Road 1880 4mm Broad Gauge


Charlie586
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Yeah,  it's a queen, probably not the Queen though if that makes sense. Going off memory, there are other outside frame single drivers around 1880 and earlier but still running in 1880, so hopefully may be able to get a few others with some adjustments. 

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45 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Any excuse for a single driver loco. It will make for an interesting project.

 

Squeezing the motor and gubbings into standard gauge will be something new, I've got a bit used to the extra width between the frames of broad gauge. 

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I hadn't thought of that. Even the firebox being a round top won't exactly be roomy. I might be preaching to the choir here, but I think that I would take advantage of the high axle if possible and mount the gearbox upside down so that the motor might be near vertical in the firebox.  Excuse the scruffy sketch.

 

IMG_20210222_224800.jpg.6fbc0cba5ab471440a79d5d12c51201d.jpg

Edited by MrWolf
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11 hours ago, MrWolf said:

I hadn't thought of that. Even the firebox being a round top won't exactly be roomy. I might be preaching to the choir here, but I think that I would take advantage of the high axle if possible and mount the gearbox upside down so that the motor might be near vertical in the firebox.  Excuse the scruffy sketch.

 

IMG_20210222_224800.jpg.6fbc0cba5ab471440a79d5d12c51201d.jpg

Thanks, I hadn't got to thinking about that yet. There does seem to be a fair bit of horizontal room between the driver and the cab. I'll add a motor to the 3d next time I play around with it. The chassis will be brass but I ought to do a 3d mockup of that first to avoid the problem I had with the rover.

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Did a bit of soldering

 

20210228_144303_001.jpg.173e7e696fc8149d285376eccea6ed47.jpg

 

Put the rover back together, though the splasher front fell off (it was wobbly anyway) and don't know where the packing piece of cardboard I made is now. Also soldered up chassis for tender and put bush bearings in the end bit of one of the gearboxes I got last year (roadrunner +)

 

Fiddled with the 3d printer a bit, ended up fitting a new FEP sheet, it's a lot better but the tension isn't quite right. I ended up having to download a sound spectrometer app on my mobile to try and get it tensioned to the right hz.

 

20210222_142635.jpg.af157b2ca9f11147a839a5be38688b0e.jpg

 

the one on the right is the new one obviously. The old one had become so thin and pockmarked I'm surprised it didn't leak. I've got a series of photos of the build/replacement so when I finally get it working right I'll put them up.

 

Also been fiddling about making silicon moulds. Mrs 586 runs a candle wax melt business so I got a silicon mould kit for xmas so I could 3d print custom templates that I (or she as it's her present)  could make into moulds that would become the wax melts when the wax is added. No pics yet, we've made a few but we're still learning. Could come in handy one day to make some train bits with (not that that was the plan behind the present) not sure what yet but maybe cobblestones in plaster or something for the station?

 

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After a lot of fiddling, swearing and maybe a bit of bodging, the rover with tender pickups is mobile with power coming through the track.

 

20210307_123213.jpg.f81af46af7b840e0fe06f648071db8ff.jpg

 

I couldn't fit the chassis on with the boiler piece over the motor, it needs a bit of body, motor worm and chassis cutting away. This was as near as I could get it on.

 

Still masses to do obviously. Need to reroute wires from motor properly, find some proper way of towing the tender (must be a better way of wording that?) add more weight to engine, stop rover body shorting the electric as it did occasionally, fit outside frames, the splasher fronts and much more.

 

20210306_141727.jpg.6ad354eb0656b928bb29fef1c0b85f21.jpg

 

Close up of tender pick ups - this is the other side to the way it was running. Not very pretty but it works. One pick up on other side has fallen off so will need to redo that, sort weight and cables out properly and attach body (which I forgot to place on top for video).

 

I've still been tinkering with 3d printer, think its okay now, I'll do another post on that in a few days.

 

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11 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Even though it's only a two second shot, I can at least do a Viktor Frankenstein and shout: "It's alive!!"

I was a bit surprised when it worked at first. 

 

I took a few other videos, but they had massive delays at the start before it moved. It's a bit quick too but more weight will fix that.

 

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Back to the 3d printing...

 

I was getting problems of peeling from the base while printing

 

20210303_172905.jpg.07db220403bbc65a155055466df67ac9.jpg

 

Like this, straight off the printer you can see over the left something going wrong at the start which means the rest had nothing to hold onto. This is another of the culm valley type carriages with different window types. Needs a good wash in IPA, but I'm using that sparingly as the price is quite high at moment.

 

I kept relevelling the printer and trying old print files and they seemed to work. Then I'd try something new and it wouldn't work.  I presumed the lack of use for a year and then the move, but I changed the print film that sits on the bottom of the vat as it was a bit old and pockmarked.

 

20210222_145719.jpg.c31ed16366e56f837bbd579b1c9a7d25.jpg

 

old on left, brand new on right. Again though the same problem with peeling. I thought I hadn't tensioned it properly, it becomes like a drum with the screws adjusting the tension, so I downloaded a noise spectrometer app and tuned it, but still the same problem. After the initial test with something small I'd already printed, anything new just would fail.

 

I was about to give up and bin it when I found the actual problem.

 

20210308_131216.jpg.6a47f67b2f21c0db10ee1fa1021dc61c.jpg

 

I watched the start of the print and it should be printing a solid rectangle base but a big piece of it's missing. The printing file was faulty. I upgraded the slicer program to the latest version and it now prints fine (finger crossed etc). The slicer program must have become corrupt, old files were printing fine but any new created file went wrong. 

 

20210311_135116.jpg.71ec88d21eb2f33cf1aa3eee4efb37e2.jpg

 

So the K2 narrow body on broad underframe may actually get printed now. Half of it on the right and the other half is printing now. I'll do the lower step as a separate piece. I must have about 6 failed prints of it so may be able to cobble another together as a cut and shut.

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13 hours ago, Mikkel said:

That K2 body looks delicious. The edges seem very sharply defined.

Thanks Mikkel. There's a little bit of stepping to the tumble home, probably my artwork more than the printer, a bit of wet and dry then primer should fix it. Sticking the two halves together will be fun!

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2 hours ago, PhilJ W said:

 

Thats why they invented liquid poly.


Not so good on printed resin.
 

Heat ‘welding’ or light curable (resin) adhesives are the other options available beyond cyano. The printer resin could be used as an adhesive as long as you can maintain the parts in proper registration whilst the uncured resin is processed. 
 

 

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Thanks. Mike uses a filament style printer that uses heat to melt tiny amounts of the material which sets when it cools. The one I have is the resin one, ultraviolet light sets/cures the resin liquid into a solid.

 

As richbrummit says, you can try something similar but using light instead of heat, I've got an acrylic nail light for helping to set things after printing. It is probably just easier to super glue. As there are no windows I can get away with internal bracing as well. Maybe a strip of brass underneath as well as the roof. Matching it exactly without the joint showing maybe the hard part, don't want it to look like a 1980's cut and shut fiesta.

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Made up some more transoms

 

20210315_075924.jpg.ad265584a4fcf5628845c0d2ddc2b0a3.jpg

 

did them the same as last time (details a few pages back) will need another coat of paint after being placed on layout.

 

20210316_134851.jpg.1dfe8dcaf85ca5fd1583b4526cab06a5.jpg

 

some of them came off during the house move and also lost a fair chunk of the ballast. The baseboard isn't in the semi permanent place yet, need to get a radiator moved first so I can move a wardrobe and then move a table for the board, but I can do ballasting and hopefully put the up line on for now too. Two of the tracks aren't conducting, another house move related problem, so I'll look at the wiring before laying ballast. 3d printed some more track gauges for broad gauge and p4 for the standard (or narrow if you prefer) gauge. Also tried a back to back gauge, seems roughly right. You can get a slight bit of stretching if you print a big solid lump, but as my track is straight I think it'll be good enough for the job. I can't remember what I decided to do for the platform, but I know it's on this thread a year or maybe even two ago, so I'll re-read it at my leisure. I haven't found the station building yet, but I think I know what box it's in...

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Transoms, rail and packing strip cut to size

 

20210321_102756.jpg.2ee20d2d799fe8034a76b2605ca6a50d.jpg

 

I made them the same size as the others, which is a third of the board length. The rail and transoms should be much shorter, but the joins are always going to look over-scale so it is what it is. I only had 6 pieces of transom, need 9 for the 3 tracks, so will have to order more and I guess they probably don't sell the exact size anymore.

 

Back to the queen class CAD

 

1692083953_queen2.png.8ff1afe51cb84c74fdfb053a1f980bd8.png

 

It's coming along. rivets and frame was the time consuming bit, not much left to do. One problem though. I've not got the RCTS I need, but the boiler is 4'6" or 18mm  (unless I've really calculated it wrong) and the wheels back to back is 17.75, so part of the wheels are in the boiler? giving it a bit of sideplay and 3d thickness of about 0.5mm means I'm going to have to hollow out the boiler around the wheels and move the splasher over a bit towards the edge.

 

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This is how the motor compares, will need to cut part or all of the end shaft off.

 

I've not got any 7ft wheels so I suppose there's no rush on this. I have got some spare 6ft wheels so I probably ought to find something they'd fit and do that instead (or just finish one of the many already started jobs)

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I think it's fair to say I haven't really got back in a routine of doing train stuff since the house move. It's allotment time of year as well now, so there may not be much more going on until the autumn.

 

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I have nearly done the queen class and did a test print on the photon. I managed to break part of the rear frame near the wheel which was a bit annoying.

 

20210418_095110.jpg.e9c72bef060fb40a5d1fda15828652d8.jpg

 

Sorry for blurry photo. It's a bit narrow in there, but hopefully all bits will fit okay. Some bits need thickening and slight changes etc. springs, chimney etc will be done separately as I can adapt the rover bits for it. One of the problems is finding photos of this state of build (1880 with the shield thing at side of smokebox) I've got one photo, can remember where from now, but most photos are of later builds.

 

Did find these pictures of a fantastic 5" gauge model.

https://www.stationroadsteam.com/5-inch-gauge-armstrong-2-2-2-prince-christian-stock-code-6145/

Which will come in handy.

 

 

 

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