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Wantage Road 1880 4mm Broad Gauge


Charlie586
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8 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


I’m still ‘messing’ with my settings because I’ve started using the water washable resin

 

0.05mm layers at 2s exposure with 6 bottom layers at 50s with UV at 100%

 

Its still not quite right though

I'm down to 1.7s for 0.05 and still okay, original gray, but definitely can still go lower. The anti aliasing doesn't seem to have any effect, or I can't see any difference. I need to read up more about that.

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17 minutes ago, Charlie586 said:

I'm down to 1.7s for 0.05 and still okay, original gray, but definitely can still go lower. The anti aliasing doesn't seem to have any effect, or I can't see any difference. I need to read up more about that.


I had mine at 1.6s with the standard grey resin and the anti aliasing doesn’t appear to work with the mono 4K either but I assume md it was because I use chitubox instead of the Anycubic slicer (that I don’t like)

 

I only switched to the water washable resin recently because it was costing me a small fortune in isopropyl but I’ve not properly ‘dialled it in’

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8 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


I had mine at 1.6s with the standard grey resin and the anti aliasing doesn’t appear to work with the mono 4K either but I assume md it was because I use chitubox instead of the Anycubic slicer (that I don’t like)

 

I only switched to the water washable resin recently because it was costing me a small fortune in isopropyl but I’ve not properly ‘dialled it in’

 

I'll try 1.6 next. I'm using an older version of chitubox, the most recent doesn't work on the mono x unless you upgrade the firmware, which i don't really want to do on a brand new machine until I'm sure it really needs it. There's a 'blur' option as well as anti aliasing, I haven't played with that yet.

I never got on with the anycubic slicer either, it never put supports in the right place.

I used the eco resin a while back on other printer but wasn't too impressed with it. I might try the water washable, as you say isopropyl is still quite expensive.

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A bit of a catch up on the early morning metal working / scratch building as I'm getting a backlog of photos. 

 

I was hoping the next bit on the Hawthorn would be a video of it nearly done going through the point work, but I'm still a few months off that.

 

20220712_102714.jpg.c58114d2ea70e317bb8621d472f0ffcf.jpg

 

Added a curved front to the firebox, not very neat soldering. It'll need some filler eventually as I don't want it unsoldering by trying to tack it any better.

 

20220712_194931.jpg.46a64e0d1ed360ec34182dfcf6155f14.jpg

 

And a band. I've filed it back a tad (thanks Lez for that tip). I'm not happy with the spectacle plates,  too big. I'm going to change them at some point. 

 

374746.jpg

(Embedded from sspl)

 

As you can see it's a lot thinner. It's also a different style to the other photo I embedded a page or two back for a similar age engine. 

 

20220801_085943.jpg.15c6be7f7c1b9a5ebd6e0779eb761ef4.jpg

 

Smoke box door. Haven't go a wire bending jig so I drilled holes in my second favourite scrap of wood then opened the hole out nearest the edge and bent the wire that way. 

 

20220803_152303.jpg.d1b3721655f5f0dd0faf211168f8bd0e.jpg

 

Bit of soldering the other day, not cleaned up properly yet. The side panel for other side wouldn't quite fit in between splasher and firebox so I need to hack and fettle it a bit.

Also is an attempt at the clamp type things for front of smoke box door, whose proper name I don't know. Also i haven't got handrail knobs small enough for the front. Blowing up a better quality photo of the real thing looks more like a bar with 2 prongs so I've wrapped thin brass offcut around wire. Hopefully on cleaning and filing it will pass.

 

I've been doing other metalworky stuff for something else, but I'll save that for a different post.

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Bit more 3d printing 

 

20220806_140317.jpg.4acd7909e65f2f0d0c7a7f8db2db180b.jpg

 

Did an e1 which was the first of the newer Dean carriages about 1874 from memory. This one's 38'6 which was a one off with a few more made later as 6 compartment. I printed it slower on 0.025mm , took about 4 hours but it does seem better than the e3 behind. Tried a different method of bracing the end but still not perfect. I've got a different plan for the next ends.

 

20220807_102247.jpg.1576f85034e55be579cb67452f9a9547.jpg

 

Primed them to see what they'd look like but didn't shake the rattle can enough. So I stripped the primer off,  started using isopropyl then switched to hand gel as we've still got bottles of it and don't use it as much now. As it's 70% alcohol it worked just as well and smelt a bit minty for a while too.

20220808_203107.jpg.95e39bba796d6d1617c40ce864f44150.jpg

Reprimed and seems okay. I'll get the airbrush out next weekend and give them a coat to see how it goes on. Have to admit I'm itching to use the airbrush again but haven't really got anything at the stage that needs painting. Had a little go at clerestories, but needs to be a lot thicker /deeper in some parts especially at the base. Also printed another v8 side at 0.025 at an angle but didn't fully get rid of the lines.

 

20220807_110855.jpg.79b59f5f335f54faf315097576be8df3.jpg

 

And a Lord of the Isles not yet primed. Was about 5 and a half hours for 0.05 at 1.6s a layer with 45% angle. Bit of vertical lines on the frames but boiler looks okay.

I'm about half way through the bottle of resin now so ought to slow down on the experiments. There's a few things I've nearly finished the cad for, and the sash windows I still need to print, so I'll try to get the cad finished. 

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I really like what you're doing here, I can visualize this lot built up and painted already. Perhaps broad gauge models will become less of a niche interest as technology gives construction a shove.

Though I doubt that Peco are going to start stamping out BG baulk road anytime soon!

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I think when they work out how to combine colour with 3d printing cheaply enough we'll have a breakthrough for all areas. 

The splashers and tight clearances are always going to be a problem, so maybe a rtr mixed gauge set is still a long way off. An easy to assemble engine kit of some type is badly needed to help get running quickly. I suppose the 3501 class would be the easiest, but it hasn't got that distinctive broad gauge look.

The finetrax easy build track kits could be adapted for em broad gauge, although it would be sleepered and not bridge rail on baulks.

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The base board is fairly clear, which obviously means there's a wiring short

 

20220814_132344.jpg.f7cfb00ca388a23074685a6493e90e5c.jpg

 

I think I've found it, near a frog again, but it's too hot to solder so I'll wait for the weather to break first.

I've added a little run off piece to the right so I can better test getting an engine clear of the point then changing and going down the other road. Needs a bit more fiddling to get it at the right level. 

 

20220811_145014.jpg.3cb913ad5a03b532d8b248ce2b056a01.jpg

 

The porter had a play in the latest print, Matthews tram. As the motion's hidden I'm hoping it should be easier to get a chassis built. The scale coupler at the front,  drawbar on the real thing, probably will be too flimsy in 3d. I need to do something for the hughes, similar drawbar, so hopefully I'll work out how to do them in brass maybe.

 

20220813_134813.jpg.22c8537af9f49b3ba0b87d3c9a084c68.jpg

 

Bit of airbrushing. The paint seemed to be drying too quickly even with retarder, which I guess is the heat. I'm still getting used to it, going to need a lot more practice. The paint wasn't as thin as the first time, which has helped.

E3 at top, had a single coat needs at least one more

Underneath I think is u20, made it last year on old printer, two halves stuck together, again single coat at mo.

Test side piece on right, 2nd coat of choc, this piece wasn't primed.

Bottom is side printed at angle  primed and single coat. 

The chocolate hides the 3d printing lines quite well on top two at normal viewing but shows up on photos. There doesn't seem any point printing sides separately and assembling. Need at least another coat or two then varnish to see how that affects the lines. I also need to sort the ends on the e3 and put end steps, not sure that will work in 3d though. 

Edited by Charlie586
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not that much doing here, but got out the e3 underframe from the society etch I started a year or three back

 

20220825_150926.jpg.f38307d2a565b8e9a55ebae57a3693f0.jpg

 

It fits but the middle of the frame needs fettling to sit properly. The hangers still need fixing to the other side. They need quite a lot of thinning down on the plates first as the casting comes quite thick. 

I cant find any coach end steps in any of the etched coach kits I've got, which seems a bit weird, so I'll have to 3d print some.

 

20220825_151844.jpg.c1933ecd9007c109953f211292184bcc.jpg

 

Printed more compartments but need slightly reducing in width / length to fit, I'll have another try next week. 

 

20220825_151730.jpg.d0c211d4da32f413823e75fac3a55deb.jpg

 

Finished cad for the mekarski compressed air tram (left). It split on test printing as I had it too thin where the back meets the body. The window bars didn't work either, far too thin, they need to be brass wire instead.

Also printed another Grantham tram, originally I got one printed by shapeways but they couldn't print the decorative panel above the windows. It's now there but not shown up too well in this photo, I'll prime it and see how it looks.

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Still not a great deal of either mojo or progress around these parts.

 

20220901_065540.jpg.a97ad35156f98afc46db20f910552042.jpg

 

Little bit of soldering. I'm going to make the smoke box removable as I think I'll have a struggle taking the body and chassis apart if ever needed.

 

20220901_095410.jpg.4b26c21d888d74fc919018dfa6997d82.jpg

 

Carriage buffers, the white metal one just left of centre came with the kit so I'm assuming is right. It's not ideal as I wanted sprung ones. I've 3d printed some and other chassis bits and found some sprung buffers, on left, but they're not the same design. I'm wondering if I can cobble something together that's sprung with brass tube and 3d printed heads or try to make a resin mould.

 

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In answer to your comment on Smokebox doors handles....

 

Looking at the picture it appears you have a ring of dog catches they simply tighten up onto a wedge shaped plate.

 

If you had a central handle then inside the Smokebox would be a locking bar and the handles is called a Dart as it has a wedge shaped end that slots into a hole on the bar and is tightened up on its screw thread

 

Hope this helps

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7 hours ago, John Besley said:

In answer to your comment on Smokebox doors handles....

 

Looking at the picture it appears you have a ring of dog catches they simply tighten up onto a wedge shaped plate.

 

If you had a central handle then inside the Smokebox would be a locking bar and the handles is called a Dart as it has a wedge shaped end that slots into a hole on the bar and is tightened up on its screw thread

 

Hope this helps

Thanks John 

They are similar to a dogs hind leg which I guess is where the name comes from.

 

20220902_070359.jpg.bfb600b6a2956ab2b4976a141348ca6d.jpg

This is currently where I am with them. Very fiddly to scratch and probably still overscale. The hinges at top of Smokebox door will have to be a 3d print, I had a few goes with tiny bits of metal but just couldn't get the shape right.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The thread's 5th year birthday has arrived amidst a fairly large lack of enthusiasm.

Hopefully the mojo will come back before the next 5 years passes. At a guess I'd say I'm a third of the way through a 15 year layout build but obviously life and other things tend to ruin the best plans.

I might start the next baseboard soon to see if that bucks my ideas up etc.

 

Anyway, what I have done in the last 3 weeks is

 

20220904_135149.jpg.62f4adfbd3a0606fdb185472a22bcb72.jpg

 

Primed the new Grantham, the decorative top panel shows now,  but the whole body isn't quite thick enough so has warped. Probably best to thicken the cad and reprint.

 

20220925_151329.jpg.3929e4b88b49bb7c404c6232581be494.jpg

 

Given the e3 another coat of chocolate, still needs one or two more coats. Also sorting the compartments out, 2 of the 1st class are in with the seats painted with first coat of blue. 

 

20220925_142017.jpg.74fff2037a62bab348aedf92db66266d.jpg

 

And tried printing the clerestory a different way, just sides and ends. I'll fix a roof first before removing from the sprue, not sure if brass or plasticard yet.

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Forgot to mention carriage upholstery colours etc yesterday.

One of the great shames of losing all the old photos is threads like this one:

 

it's a bit frustrating as the information would have been there. Google searches led me round in circles a bit.

 

I've got an Engineer article from 1876 on the new broad gauge express carriages which says walnut panelling and blue cloth for First. Second is mahogany and blue rep. I'm still not entirely sure what blue rep actually is, or the shade of blue for first, but hopefully it's in the right area.

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Charlie,

Jimbo Wales Big Bag of Trivia strikes again!  Rep Fabric..

 

I have always gone for a mid-blue, on the basis that that type of blue is what you see today.  (People order what they had before.  I remember red Third class seats, and that is what the GWR had in 1895.)  It of course could be darker to hide the dirt.

 

Whatever colour you chose you cannot be wrong, unless you meet someone who rode in such a carriage who can tell you differently, and their memory made be a trifle suspect now anyway.

 

Edit:  I have noted that the Cambrian in 1895 had mid blue for First, and dark blue for Second.

Edited by ChrisN
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17 minutes ago, ChrisN said:

Charlie,

Jimbo Wales Big Bag of Trivia strikes again!  Rep Fabric..

 

I have always gone for a mid-blue, on the basis that that type of blue is what you see today.  (People order what they had before.  I remember red Third class seats, and that is what the GWR had in 1895.)  It of course could be darker to hide the dirt.

 

Whatever colour you chose you cannot be wrong, unless you meet someone who rode in such a carriage who can tell you differently, and their memory made be a trifle suspect now anyway.

 

Edit:  I have noted that the Cambrian in 1895 had mid blue for First, and dark blue for Second.

 

Thank you Chris (and Jimbo)

My blue is maybe a bit light, but the inside of the carriage won't be that visible with the roof on and that would make it darker anyway.

This is a 2nd class from 1890 and is the best and probably only internal photo I've ever come across. It does seem dark compared to the chocolate sides.

 

https://www.mediastorehouse.com.au/steam-museum-of-the-gwr/places/tracks/norton-fitzwarren-train-crash-1890-15045908.html

 

a much better quality pic of above is still here

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20160307074844im_/http://www.spellerweb.net/rhindex/UKRH/GreatWestern/Broadgauge/Nortoncoaches.jpg

 

Haven't got to the third class carriages yet. I wouldn't be surprised to still see wooden seats on some of the older stock in 1880. I seem to remember red as well from somewhere. I really ought to write things down in a notebook as I find them out.

 

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1 hour ago, Charlie586 said:

 

Thank you Chris (and Jimbo)

My blue is maybe a bit light, but the inside of the carriage won't be that visible with the roof on and that would make it darker anyway.

This is a 2nd class from 1890 and is the best and probably only internal photo I've ever come across. It does seem dark compared to the chocolate sides.

 

https://www.mediastorehouse.com.au/steam-museum-of-the-gwr/places/tracks/norton-fitzwarren-train-crash-1890-15045908.html

 

a much better quality pic of above is still here

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20160307074844im_/http://www.spellerweb.net/rhindex/UKRH/GreatWestern/Broadgauge/Nortoncoaches.jpg

 

Haven't got to the third class carriages yet. I wouldn't be surprised to still see wooden seats on some of the older stock in 1880. I seem to remember red as well from somewhere. I really ought to write things down in a notebook as I find them out.

 

 

Charlie,

Yes, that is an interesting photo, so Second Class is probably a darker blue, same as the Cambrian.  Although the Cambrian was fiercely independent, and leaned more towards the LNWR, the thought of having the same(ish) colour seats might appeal so that someone who changed trains could not claim they were in the wrong class carriage because, 'the seat covers are the same.

 

Harris says that from 1890 to 1895 Second and Third class seat covers were 'Rep'.  Really helpful.  The Cambrian at this time had seat covers designated as 'Drab Rep' which corresponds to light brown.  ("That looks a bit drab").  Red with white spots, well patterns came later.

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I think having similar seat covers would be a good explanation, I can imagine the kind of arguments that would regularly happen otherwise. 

There's no third compartments in the e3 so I've got a bit more time to search before deciding. Light brown or red wouldn't look too dissimilar in a dark coach, but I suppose the question is was it the same in 1880 as 1890.

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Congratulations on the thread anniversary Charlie, five years of interesting and unusual builds and experiments.

 

I can't add anything to the discussion of blue, but have learnt something - thanks for that.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still not much more than nothing going on, but have done a roof test

 

20221009_131943.jpg.89dbc332e0bd57e336c11539114c2457.jpg

 

Plasticard (about .75mm). I did try boiling water around my allotment thermos flask but it just didn't help it take shape. Eventually teased it to roughly the right profile but, annoyingly, it needs to be a few mm wider. I'll try again and will use this for a standard/narrow gauge roof. 

 

20221009_131916.jpg.63e6982ef633a0cf870f2106fb21c87f.jpg

 

3d Clerestory sides and ends with plasticard roof. Formed as above then superglue. Sides were a bit thin so it's not perfect but will hopefully pass.

 

Above that is an R2 printed with compartments as one piece to see if would work or not. The tumblehome area is a bit bowed where it was printing a large area at a time. It could work better if slowed down more, this took 4 ish hours. I tried to paint to see if it would still be too noticeable and it is. I may sand/fill and repaint at some point but want to concentrate on just one Coach.

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Forming plasticard for coach roofs is easy Charlie.

You take two lengths of 4" or 6" plastic waste pipe. Make a cut lengthways in one of them so that you can slide it over the whole one. Take your piece of plasticard and wrap it around the whole piece of pipe and slide the cut piece of pipe over the whole piece of pipe with the plasticard between the two pieces of pipe with the cut on the opposite side to the plasticard. Make sure that the plasticard is square on the pipe. Pull the cut pipe together with either strong elastic bands or jubilee clips as close as you can get it.

Fill your sink with very hot water and immerse said pipes and plasticard in the water for 10-15 mins remove from the water and allow it to cool down. Release the clips or elastic bands slide the cut pipe off of the uncut pipe and you will have one piece of formed plasticard. The longer you leave it in the water the less it will spring out when you remove it from the pipe. You can also use this method to shape thin brass/nickel silver but without the water and if your using this method to form metal cover the outside of the inner piece of pipe with sticky back neoprene 2-3mm thick will do the job. 

Simples!!! No charge!!!

Regards Lez.   

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If you’ve got a curved former in a heat resistant material, just place your plastikard on top, and give it a blast with the wife’s hair dryer, best to have it oversize and trim it once cooled. Otherwise I’m lucky enough to have some rolling bars, and these will put a permanent set in .060” plastikard for 0 gauge roofs.

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Thanks Lezz and Northroader. I think a combination of me just using tape and not leaving it in the water long enough didn't give it a chance. I've got some plastic drainpipe offcuts at allotment so I'll have a go with them.

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