Wantage Tramway No.5 "Jane" or 'Shannon' from the Sandy & Potton Tramway (1850).

[PenrithBeacon]

I've always had problems using piercing saws, the damned things always jam up on me. I once earwigged a conversation between Mike Sharman and another modeller at an MK show on this topic. Mike said he didn't ever use piercing saws, he just drilled holes and then enlarged the aperture using files. Since then I've always used this method.

[wagonman]

Piercing saws are very useful but you must use the right blade. Best too to avoid cheap ones as they tend to wander when you're sawing. With that thought, never saw to the line but leave a bit of metal and finish off with files – just in case.

Edited March 11, 2018 by wagonman

[davknigh]

There is a simple rule for any cutting edge but saws and piercing saws in particular; let the tool do the work. Your saw will cut on the downstroke only so the return stroke should be light. Far too many people try to force the cut and when your blade thickness is measure in thousandths of an inch (or hundredths of a millimetre) brute force will only end in tears.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[AdeMoore]

Bit more done, I decided to make the extra removal on the frame holes like always intended! Looks ok I think.

I cut another template and scalpeled out the holes intending to file out to it stuck on as before but then decided to line it up above as a guide seemed to work.

 

Started with this

 

 

First two holes fettled

 

 

Good enough until soldered up then for a final fettle.

 

[AdeMoore]

Managed some more over the last couple of days.

Stuck on the template to cut to the outline found the main frame hole needed a bit more fettling.

 

.

 

Cutting out the outline of the frames with multi tool.

 

 

Bulldog clipped together as one soldered end now gone, for filing up top of frames to get a good fit to the footplate.

 

 

Cleaned up ready to be unsodered on the remaining end.

The frame blanks were not exactly aligned hence the breakout of the bearing hole on the lower blank I wasn’t aware of. Sure when the bearing is soldered in it won’t matter.

 

 

So frame spacers next harder to make than I thought.

Parallel edges important so filing up an edge.

 

Marked out for cutting out.

 

 

So good enough, then a triangle file on the spacers to make folding easier.

 

 

Both soldered to one frame, my first ever attempt at soldering brass apart from the two blanks needs a lot of cleaning up to much solder but learning as I go.

 

 

Here I had to depart from Laurie Griffins ideas he suggests using a set square to push up to the frames to align and square everything. Being so much smaller I needed to square everything up a different way, so using the drill bit method related next for the connecting rod alignment. I adapted that with a clamp and tweezers to square up by eye before soldering.

 

 

There she is fames together not bad for a first go even if I say so myself, bit out but I can fettle that.

 

 

Then just as a sense of scale a Jinty body the smallest loco I have alongside the completed underframe.

 

 

Thanks for looking in all comments appreciated.

Cheers.

[John_Hughes]

I'd say that's smashing work all round!

[Michael Edge]

If your brass is reasonably hard plain rectangles can be cut by scribing and cracking - just like Plastikard.

[AdeMoore]

If your brass is reasonably hard plain rectangles can be cut by scribing and cracking - just like Plastikard.

Cheers Michael did try that but 0.5mm is a bit much loads of scores but not deep enough to crack on bending and was tired from trying. I think when I come to the 0.25 brass it will be ok that way.

[chris p bacon]

I've etched it in .4mm (actually something like .3876 or suchlike) and think that's thick enough for this little beastie.

 

The parts can be delicate when loose but when soldered together they're pretty robust.

Edited March 16, 2018 by chris p bacon

[AdeMoore]

I've etched it in .4mm (actually something like .3876 or suchlike) and think that's thick enough for this little beastie.

 

The parts can be delicate when loose but when soldered together they're pretty robust.

Yes I found the frames when parted flimsy and straightened them a number of times, but now all is pretty good, just have to unsolder and sort the rear spacer out where it’s a bit high maybe later.

I was gonna do the superstructure in 0.25 as I read on here somewhere that should suffice.

[chris p bacon]

I was gonna do the superstructure in 0.25 as I read on here somewhere that should suffice.

 

 

I'll be sending you some bits for the cab and brake gear etc along with the spares but I'll have used the smokebox firebox and cylinders. I'll get them cut out of the etch in the next evening or so.

 

They'll help you along.

[AdeMoore]

I'll be sending you some bits for the cab and brake gear etc along with the spares but I'll have used the smokebox firebox and cylinders. I'll get them cut out of the etch in the next evening or so.

 

They'll help you along.

Many’s thanx Dave.

[N15class]

Cheers Michael did try that but 0.5mm is a bit much loads of scores but not deep enough to crack on bending and was tired from trying. I think when I come to the 0.25 brass it will be ok that way.

Why you using 020” for spacers, (ok for the frames). 010" is amply thick enough. Also good for superstructure.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

PS use heavy craft knife for scoring. Even 020" can be done.

[timbowilts]

A question for you, have you thought about a motor for this yet?

 

TIA, Tim T

[AdeMoore]

A question for you, have you thought about a motor for this yet?

TIA, Tim T

Me no but I have a very good friend on the case.

Dave AKA Chris P Bacon has done all the homework http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57208-sandy-gn-lnwr-or-bre/page-23 from post #574 on.

It’ll be a tight squeeze I’m sure!

Thanks for the comment.

[chris p bacon]

Me no but I have a very good friend on the case.

Dave AKA Chris P Bacon has done all the homework http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57208-sandy-gn-lnwr-or-bre/page-23 from post #574 on.

It’ll be a tight squeeze I’m sure!

Thanks for the comment.

 

Jeez....I hope it works ....

[Michael Edge]

Cheers Michael did try that but 0.5mm is a bit much loads of scores but not deep enough to crack on bending and was tired from trying. I think when I come to the 0.25 brass it will be ok that way.

At that thickness the brass would have to be really hard to crack.

[Daddyman]

Once you've scored the line with a Stanley or scrawker, open the groove out with a triangular mini file - this will allow the forming of perfect right angles. Stop filing when the line is visible on the reverse side of the piece you're scoring. It's important that you score first, as this will give the file a guide to run in. 

[AdeMoore]

Once you've scored the line with a Stanley or scrawker, open the groove out with a triangular mini file - this will allow the forming of perfect right angles. Stop filing when the line is visible on the reverse side of the piece you're scoring. It's important that you score first, as this will give the file a guide to run in.

 

Cheers but that’s exactly what I have done see post #30 above photo 14 and 15.

[Daddyman]

Cheers but that’s exactly what I have done see post #30 above photo 14 and 15.

Ah, yes, now I see. Sorry - missed the caption. 

[AdeMoore]

Managed a bit more.

Filing up my poor soldering.

 

 

Photos are good as you go this one showed the horn block keep was barely soldered so had to be re done.

 

My horn block idea proved harder to do than I thought, I over did opening the slots to fit the frames then needed to bodge a guide to keep one following the slot.

 

 

Then I miss judged the frame spacer size allowed 1mm for each horn block should of been maybe 1 to 2 mm more so now have to thin them down to suit the axle length.

 

 

Managed to get the axles and wheels on, rear running free but the fronts still need work.

 

 

 

More fettling tomorrow.

[AdeMoore]

That was very much a shorten version after soldering up a horn block completely and struggling to unsolder then clean then added WD40 to block to avoid that. Then the bodged guide I have soldered back on twice at least after to much exuberant filing etc.

Soldered the keeps on many times also!

I note Laurie Griffin MRJ author I’m following the build from used 4mm horn blocks on his 7mm build, something I could have done using 2mm on mine. Anyway back 18 years ago when I bought the bits for this, Chris Challis wouldn’t have had the articles to hand to advise me. I just spouted off no doubt about my pie in the sky idea and he sold me bits that would make it?

[chris p bacon]

Which wheels are you using ?

 

I've had to plump for Gibson as they were the only ones I could find in 3' with 10 spoke.

[AdeMoore]

Which wheels are you using ?

 

I've had to plump for Gibson as they were the only ones I could find in 3' with 10 spoke.

Hi Dave no idea doesn’t say on packet I didn’t even know if they were the right size but gauging photos they should be about a tyre and flange off the running plate to top of wheel. Which roughly these are but from what you say these are 1mm to big. But they’ll do!

[doilum]

Managed some more over the last couple of days.

Stuck on the template to cut to the outline found the main frame hole needed a bit more fettling.

.DD580081-B661-4511-BC64-69183C0F2CF2.jpeg

045D21B5-4EFF-42BE-8895-7738A5504799.jpeg

Cutting out the outline of the frames with multi tool.

4A4CA641-B366-436F-9FD5-F2C6AB0DF4FD.jpeg

Bulldog clipped together as one soldered end now gone, for filing up top of frames to get a good fit to the footplate.

2E3B8A84-7F4B-4B63-92CE-5080AFA9BA53.jpeg

20C14491-7BAB-49BE-A84F-F8DB9D3376FF.jpeg

Cleaned up ready to be unsodered on the remaining end.

The frame blanks were not exactly aligned hence the breakout of the bearing hole on the lower blank I wasn’t aware of. Sure when the bearing is soldered in it won’t matter.

18049C47-4F5E-4386-8811-282905D428B2.jpeg

C830D6A8-25F0-47F7-A7C6-D7E54251CCBA.jpeg

So frame spacers next harder to make than I thought.

Parallel edges important so filing up an edge.

A4097628-C8A8-4E44-950E-3B70B018B757.jpeg

A7EBED19-F3CF-49BD-BC74-319EB2BAF9B1.jpeg

Marked out for cutting out.

8A9715F7-D484-49ED-8D23-E29C68C1F6CB.jpeg5F24C949-55B9-4EA2-AA6A-C2CABE60CD8A.jpeg6F16CE37-7526-4260-9B32-8448AA5AF78A.jpeg07C7E6DC-8532-4756-84DD-E1EF1EC77C8E.jpeg

So good enough, then a triangle file on the spacers to make folding easier.

F94022E6-4D55-49E7-B199-ECFFA819E6E4.jpegB09C1E12-3648-4D9E-9BEA-F02D8E6BBC9C.jpeg

Both soldered to one frame, my first ever attempt at soldering brass apart from the two blanks needs a lot of cleaning up to much solder but learning as I go.

7D6E53D9-7043-49FA-A2CC-50C1B4BBC35B.jpeg

Here I had to depart from Laurie Griffins ideas he suggests using a set square to push up to the frames to align and square everything. Being so much smaller I needed to square everything up a different way, so using the drill bit method related next for the connecting rod alignment. I adapted that with a clamp and tweezers to square up by eye before soldering.

434A4454-0CAC-46A7-9CD3-3F7F4ABC53A1.jpegA1C0C437-34CF-4F20-A4EA-28A8B6D76B9B.jpegB6875B02-CEAB-4835-AE60-5A7447DD2C2B.jpeg

There she is fames together not bad for a first go even if I say so myself, bit out but I can fettle that.

9CD8DE4A-9EB5-4091-97E6-D2C55692CAE7.jpeg

Then just as a sense of scale a Jinty body the smallest loco I have alongside the completed underframe.

13B855C8-2479-4646-9DD3-CDC126ED4330.jpeg

Thanks for looking in all comments appreciated.

Cheers.