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RMWeb Modular Meet 2 - Hampshire - NOW CANCELLED


cromptonnut
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Pick a date  

12 members have voted

  1. 1. Pick all dates that are convenient for you

    • Saturday 6 April
    • Sunday 7 April
    • Saturday 13 April
    • Sunday 14 April
    • Saturday 27 April
    • Sunday 28 April
    • Saturday 4 May
    • Sunday 5 May
    • Saturday 18 May
    • Sunday 19 May


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No reason you can't build a module ba14eagle, you could get a kit or ready made baseboard and decorate it with plenty of time to spare :)

 

The standards are here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/88537-rmweb-modular-project-standards/

 

Although there may be someone else in the group that would appreciate your help with their boards?

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I can bring two spare iphones with withrottle and two wifi ROCO Maus if your unit supports them.

 

Rocomaus screwed our system up last time because there isn't enough power on the control bus to accommodate it, I need to get round to adding some power to a patch panel to make it work, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

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Rocomaus screwed our system up last time because there isn't enough power on the control bus to accommodate it, I need to get round to adding some power to a patch panel to make it work, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Hence the cordless wifi Maus not needing a power supply as it's battery ;)

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I have a Lenz system with 4 throttles.

Also have a made up connector for additional power to express-net, and components and suitable power supplies to make at least two more.

 

I would be quite happy to buy one of those power adaptor connector thingys, please message me with a price and contact details for paypal if you are willing to sell :)

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The Lenz ExpressNet powering is quite easily resolved. Just connect only the 'M', 'A', and 'B' wires from the command station connector to the LA152 on the layout, and connect a regulated 12V supply between the M (0V) and L (+12V) terminals at the LA152 on the layout. Connect the computer interface to the 5-pin DIN on the command station and it should all be very resilient.

 

The big problem with Lenz is that the command station will crash (and need to be powered off and on again) if you try and operate a point while in stop mode, so just make sure that the layout is fed via a booster and that the 'E' wire is not connected (just 'C' and 'D') so it never goes in to stop mode if you have DCC controlled points anywhere. 

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At least as far as the "Dave" / Britmod-OO / whatever standards go, points and accessories should not be controlled by the main bus anyway so the point related issue shouldn't occur above.

 

So basically with what you're saying above, is that I only connect M A B from the command station to the connector on my 'control box', then M and L to a 12v DC supply, I can then plug everything else (including the computer adaptor) into that faceplate and go from there?

 

I have a tray that holds my base station, power supply and has an LA152 xpressnet adaptor on it so everything is in one place.

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...So basically with what you're saying above, is that I only connect M A B from the command station to the connector on my 'control box', then M and L to a 12v DC supply, I can then plug everything else (including the computer adaptor) into that faceplate and go from there?

 

I have a tray that holds my base station, power supply and has an LA152 xpressnet adaptor on it so everything is in one place.

 

That will work fine.

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The Lenz ExpressNet powering is quite easily resolved. Just connect only the 'M', 'A', and 'B' wires from the command station connector to the LA152 on the layout, and connect a regulated 12V supply between the M (0V) and L (+12V) terminals at the LA152 on the layout. Connect the computer interface to the 5-pin DIN on the command station and it should all be very resilient.

 

With the typical express-net flat cable and a large setup it is better to have the power distributed rather than feeding from a single point.
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The main problem is that the LZV100 can only supply a few hundred milliamps from its internal 12V supply on the 'L' wire, and the inrush current from plugging in a Multimaus can cause it to dip significantly causing a crash (this is why adding a resistor in series with the 'L' wire on a Multimaus usually gets round the problem - but it will be at the expense that the Multimaus may not work a long way from the power source). Adding a solid supply that will not dip should get round the problem even if there is quite a long run of cable - the handsets should only need about 7V or so to run so can take quite a big drop in voltage from the 12V probably in the order of 25-50 Ohms before you will run in to problems.

 

I have no disagreement that distributing the 12V is a good idea, but you will have to go to quite a big meet to start hitting problems due to cable resistance. Putting the control box in the middle somewhere will mean that you will have the best chance of good results.

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I think we are several decades away from 'sports hall' style meets, but it's interesting to know how all these little things can make a difference, and the multimaus issue you mention above Suzie caused much head scratching on the day last time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It appears that Sunday May 19th works out to be the best date overall, based on discussions and possibilities.  I am currently awaiting confirmation that the hall is still available (although there's no reason it shouldn't be) and once that is confirmed I will then start a new discussion with booking instructions.

 

Apologies for those showing interest that did not vote for that date, however I hope that some of you can look again at your diaries and perhaps shuffle round your commitments?  No date will ever be perfect.

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*** WE HAVE A DATE ***

 

Hi all

 

Sunday 19th May has proven to be the most popular date so that's the date we are going to go with.  I've had assurance that the hall is available that day, and awaiting paperwork as the clerk is currently on holiday.

 

If you would like to participate, either private message me with your email address, or email secag@mail.com, and I will send you the application form paperwork.  You can then either post or scan and return this to me and we'll start putting the plan together.

 

Many thanks

 

'Nut

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As this is not too far from home, and I like the general idea, and applaud the efforts of a committed few to trying to make this work …….. if you are open to the idea of attendees without modules, I will commit to coming and paying a full share.  A module might just come into being, but I am a very slow worker so wouldn't want to promise.  And I'm firmly DC, but could certainly contribute a few tension-lock fitted wagons to a BR steam-age trip freight pool.

 

PM to C'Nut follows.

 

Best of luck

 

Chris

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Forms sent Chris, you have a year so I'm sure you can manage a module.  Even a 4ft long, straight single track module with a bit of scenery is helpful as few people build 'plain boards', most have a purpose ie are a station, or a junction, or a siding or whatever.

 

You know you can do this, as long as the board is straight, flat and the track is wired and at the right height - scenery is a bonus in many ways and last time only about a quarter of what came was scenically complete.  Refresh yourself with the standards thread, grab some banana sockets off of Ebay, and I reckon you could get something together in a weekend once you've got the wood cut.  It's one of the reasons we've got a date 11 months in advance, to give people time to build something.

 

Not having any DCC locos isn't really an issue, of course on a straight plain board DC and DCC wiring (ie one wire to each rail) are exactly the same anyway so this could even be used as part of your own home layout; several of the modules I'll be bringing are part of my home layout but with setrack curves in the hidden sections at home as they take up less space, and replacement curved boards with wider radius curves to the standards for use when I have a space bigger than my shed (they are simply plain track curves so it doesn't make any difference overall).

 

I'm also looking at "Mini-Dave" for 10" wide single track boards, that are simply used for extending straight runs, and take up a lot less space.  Obviously they're less stable than 18" wide boards however inbetween standard boards they'll be fine.  One of those is even easier to build :)

 

Perhaps you could build a module that also doubles as a photographic plank?

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Even scenery is optional. Here's what will be my contribution:

post-25860-0-53125500-1530386960_thumb.jpg

You'll notice that it's not especially scenic, or indeed British...

Though I'm hoping it'll be a bit more scenic by May next year, it is functional, and I can plonk some superquick kits down to make it more appropriate.

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Yes, laser cut. From Grange & Hodder (I'm just a satisfied customer). For this kind of thing laser cut is ideal, as even a large module isn't that many boards, so it's not too ruinous. I also have almost no carpentry skills or (perhaps more significantly) tools... Any future modules I make will have laser cut boards.

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Laser cut does make for good quick and easy module boards. These ones usefully came with single and double track centers already marked on. They're Tim Horn rather than grange and hodder so there are multiple sources of quick modular board kits.

 

post-9147-0-13700000-1530430058_thumb.jpg

 

Only 10 months left to lay some track on them...

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