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On 27/05/2022 at 12:19, chuffinghell said:

 

'Hurts'? I assume you mean trying to get me to understand something? 🤣

 

No, I was thinking more about me being unwittingly propelled against a breezeblock wall.

 

 

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
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I'm disappointed to hear the AA16 was out by '34.   Just predates my timeframe.   I had been looking at Osborn's kit.

 

What's next on the branch?  More 3D stock?  Another canal?  Justification for a Castle?

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1 hour ago, AlfaZagato said:

I'm disappointed to hear the AA16 was out by '34.   Just predates my timeframe.   I had been looking at Osborn's kit.

 

What's next on the branch?  More 3D stock?  Another canal?  Justification for a Castle?


I’m just winging it at the moment, although I really should finish the goods yard track work, ballastings, wiring…….etc, etc

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2 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

I'm disappointed to hear the AA16 was out by '34.   Just predates my timeframe.   I had been looking at Osborn's kit.

 

I had a slight dilemma with that too, four years before my timeframe (although I don't know about departmental stock) but then I realised that I have been building a loco that spent it's working life in a different county and which was scrapped in 1930, so I thought, what the hell? 

2 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

 

What's next on the branch?  More 3D stock?  Another canal?  Justification for a Castle?

 

Or the unspoken joy that is post and wire fencing? 😜

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Prototype #2

 

I’ve printed them as a kit so I could put the print supports on areas that aren’t visible such as the back side and underside, although the wagon body produced by  @stevel had no visible support scars so perhaps I need a rethink it

 

 6AFB619D-9387-468F-8863-96C28AE0AC9D.jpeg.f1b529850cad8b0ad03110b3a00a176a.jpeg
 

assembled and given a blast of primer to highlight the details (and areas requiring attention)

 

FE1F6256-0F49-4F08-B8B0-BF97203D45A1.jpeg.0efae7916e533b1507dcb239bca3134e.jpeg

 

 

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If I could figure out a way of doing it in one piece and still avoid having supports on the visible areas that would be better

 

5B54EEBC-7421-4D4F-99FE-76BCE7628B7C.jpeg.33c2858b04afdc0055657f30acbcf3ee.jpeg
 

just enough ‘give’ to insert the wheel sets
 

CCB936C2-DDBD-43CB-865D-C62E42D31DBA.jpeg.a42bf1b9dacc2016d3f8ccb5f4d12d62.jpeg


additional details never hurt anyone 

 

C1535155-6E80-4134-B0FD-E22C962A88BB.jpeg.9d032d63ea39c5b7ccc47079bae22d05.jpeg

 

I would imagine I won’t be completely satisfied until prototype #10 😆

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26 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

If I could figure out a way of doing it in one piece and still avoid having supports on the visible areas that would be better

 

5B54EEBC-7421-4D4F-99FE-76BCE7628B7C.jpeg.33c2858b04afdc0055657f30acbcf3ee.jpeg
 

just enough ‘give’ to insert the wheel sets
 

CCB936C2-DDBD-43CB-865D-C62E42D31DBA.jpeg.a42bf1b9dacc2016d3f8ccb5f4d12d62.jpeg


additional details never hurt anyone 

 

C1535155-6E80-4134-B0FD-E22C962A88BB.jpeg.9d032d63ea39c5b7ccc47079bae22d05.jpeg

 

I would imagine I won’t be completely satisfied until prototype #10 😆

 

I think that the kit form works really well, particularly if you wanted to drill out the axle boxes to fit brass bearings.

 

Good to see that the material is a bit more pliable than the loriot you had to subcontract out. Hopefully the technical information on compound mixing that @stevelkindly posted on my thread makes more sense to you than me who has never done any 3d printing?

 

I do like the brass tie bars, big improvement over plastic kits. But what I really like is the bracket and bolt details underneath the verandah steps! I don't think that has been done outside of brass kits before.

 

KBO!

 

 

 

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The only problem with using parts from damaged locos and chassis bought on eBay is I wouldn’t be able to offer the wagon to anyone unless they were willing to either get a donor wagon or be happy accepting the wagon without the additional details

 

So I’m going have to look at doing one with the brakes in place and the coupling pockets positioned to suit ‘off the shelf’ Bachmann or Hornby couplings (the Oxford rail ones are special/non-standard to clear the brake detail) in the hope that someone would be interested in purchasing one….maybe?


 

Edited by chuffinghell
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That makes a lot of sense. (Said the man who files off all kit coupling mounts to fit 3 links) it's better to have the facility in place and remove it if required than not to. 

Wheels and couplings are generally left to the builder to source anyway.

You could offer it with the readily available Bachmann wheels and couplings thrown in though. I expect people would pay the extra.

You then need a big sheet of repeated transfer sets you can cut into individual sets and add to the kit.

 

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26 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

….Wheels and couplings are generally left to the builder to source anyway….

 


Thats true and most of us have those kind of bits rattling around in a random box somewhere

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Will I get away with this for the sandbox pipes?

 

D6C1B9D1-29F8-40B2-9D31-9BF403963E80.jpeg.036f0517815e0868a90022ddf8dedd86.jpeg
 

I cut them shorter so I could clean the wheels without the risk of catching them but I’m wondering if I’ve cut them back too much?

 

They're not glued in place yet in case I have to make them again

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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39 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I think that is a matter that's entirely up to you, given the likelihood of bending or breaking them. I picked up this 14XX drawing in case it's helpful.

 

042-M-4800.gif.d6ff950bb407b7b341d6ae4b6cccee3c.gif


They are quite clearly closer to the wheels (as are the ones on my RTR locos) so I knew they were too short. Hoped to get away with it but in the meantime I’ve bent up some more slightly longer, sprayed them with some acid etch primer and I’ll see what it looks like once painted….being an acid etch I need to leave the primer for at least 24hrs

 

 

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4 hours ago, chuffinghell said:


They are quite clearly closer to the wheels (as are the ones on my RTR locos) so I knew they were too short. Hoped to get away with it but in the meantime I’ve bent up some more slightly longer, sprayed them with some acid etch primer and I’ll see what it looks like once painted….being an acid etch I need to leave the primer for at least 24hrs

 

 

But is the hole up the middle the right diameter?????

 

Sorry...

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4 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

But is the hole up the middle the right diameter?????

 

Sorry...

 

If we assume it to be 1" BSP, that's 0.33333(r) millimetres.

 

Don't encourage him Mr Endloadingdock!

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8 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

If we assume it to be 1" BSP, that's 0.33333(r) millimetres.

 

Don't encourage him Mr Endloadingdock!


1” NB tube has an O/D of 33.7mm

 

33.7/76.2= 0.442 so unfortunately it’s 0.008mm out 😢

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I was talking about the 'ole! (Ooer missus!)

 

The bore being 1" (25.4mm exactly)

 

As was Mr E. 

 

That being in 4mm/ft - 4mm ÷ 12 = 0.333333recurring.

 

But yes the wall is about 4.15 mm (5/32"ish) 

 

So 33.7 O/D  or 1-5/16" ish.

 

There, I think that should Nominally Bore just about everyone!

 

And you win the golden anorak for Saturday 28/05/22. 😎

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