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09bowltt_465_524_int.jpg.ae12879d3a02cf5f073c896b0191f005.jpg

 

Jolly good show old chap!

 

I do think that you've found your forte with these models.

Unlike when you have to farm out the printing, pay your money and hope for the best, you now have full control over all of the production and QA. Much less chance of a hastily printed item with that driftwood effect on the surfaces.

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14 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

09bowltt_465_524_int.jpg.ae12879d3a02cf5f073c896b0191f005.jpg

 

Jolly good show old chap!

 

I do think that you've found your forte with these models.

Unlike when you have to farm out the printing, pay your money and hope for the best, you now have full control over all of the production and QA. Much less chance of a hastily printed item with that driftwood effect on the surfaces.


Thanks Rob

 

The other advantage is that if I’ve make an error during the design/drawing stage (which I often do) I can rectify it and reprint straight away instead of waiting weeks for someone else to print it

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Chris, 

 

I'm with Rob. You appear to have found your niche. 

 

That's a very nice little Toad indeed. 

 

Rob. 

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Under the advice of @St Enodoc, @MrWolf and @John Besley I have drilled a 0.33 diameter hole thro’ the 0.45 dia rod and sanded the rod reducing the diameter to 0.442 to produce a 1”NB pipe and have ground down some sand to the correct particle size

 

Does this look better?

 

DDBEDFE4-018C-4817-9E61-9AFBF197A253.jpeg.a1c03cd796c3ff076c781755426bae5d.jpeg

 

Yes I’ve filed the end of the pipe too

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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3 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Chris, 

 

I'm with Rob. You appear to have found your niche. 

 

That's a very nice little Toad indeed. 

 

Rob. 


Thanks Rob

 

Little being the operative word, Sarah’s response was “ah that’s cute” 😂

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22 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Always useful to get the other halfs approval, particularly by means of the cute factor.


I just hope that when she said “that’s tiny” she was still referring to the brake van 🤣

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I thought I’d better trial fit the coupling hook and buffer assy from the donor chassis

 

2B745E9A-86A2-405F-9CBE-31695A73FAC2.jpeg.5bf1151a366453436267b998bb8b5b17.jpeg
 

the chassis I bought on eBay had been repainted with enamel so it took quite a bit of effort to remove them, I’ll strip the remaining paint off before I fit them because I will be using acrylic

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7 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Under the advice of @St Enodoc, @MrWolf and @John Besley I have drilled a 0.33 diameter hole thro’ the 0.45 dia rod and sanded the rod reducing the diameter to 0.442 to produce a 1”NB pipe and have ground down some sand to the correct particle size

 

Does this look better?

 

DDBEDFE4-018C-4817-9E61-9AFBF197A253.jpeg.a1c03cd796c3ff076c781755426bae5d.jpeg

 

Yes I’ve filed the end of the pipe too

Very good, hopefully you've also fitted scale chain inside the sand box that retains the lid so it doesn't get lost when filling the box

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53 minutes ago, John Besley said:

Very good, hopefully you've also fitted scale chain inside the sand box that retains the lid so it doesn't get lost when filling the box

 

There's no pleasing some people. I bet the folks at Dapol, Accurascale, Oxford et al have nightmares with you in them.😅

 

Actually, not a bad idea...

 

Don't rest on your laurels boys, you'll drop off and that Besley chap will haunt your dreams like Freddie Kruger in overalls and a grease top cap....

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On 28/05/2022 at 03:39, chuffinghell said:

Prototype #2

 

I’ve printed them as a kit so I could put the print supports on areas that aren’t visible such as the back side and underside, although the wagon body produced by  @stevel had no visible support scars so perhaps I need a rethink it

 

 6AFB619D-9387-468F-8863-96C28AE0AC9D.jpeg.f1b529850cad8b0ad03110b3a00a176a.jpeg
 

assembled and given a blast of primer to highlight the details (and areas requiring attention)

 

FE1F6256-0F49-4F08-B8B0-BF97203D45A1.jpeg.0efae7916e533b1507dcb239bca3134e.jpeg

 

 

Chris that is a nice crisp print. the image attached shows how I avoid a lot of supports showing, I print at 45 degrees with the chassis on the underside. This makes sure most of the supports are inside of the body. On the top of the body sides I use knife edge supports, attached by .1-.15mm's, that snap off easily once cured. The cattle wagon drawing shows them better. They are pierced to facilitate them breaking cleanly. 

S5 fish wagon v28.png

W2 wood frame cattle wagon edit.PNG

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On 27/05/2022 at 14:52, AlfaZagato said:

I'm disappointed to hear the AA16 was out by '34.   Just predates my timeframe.   I had been looking at Osborne's kit.

 

I've been having a dig through the information I have on the AA16 and found several independent references to them lasting until 1939, not 1934 as previously stated.

It's doubtless worth investigating further, being a Toad, but not as we know it.

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I really need to keep an eye on the Content I Follow feed, completely missed this reveal!

 

On 21/05/2022 at 21:13, chuffinghell said:

I admit that I’m not entirely happy with it because unfortunately its not as perfect as I’d hoped but I don’t think I could have done any better (I really should stop thinking I can can't do things that I can’t can)

 

Fixed that for you. That is a very impressive model, the print looks better than some commercial offerings!

 

On 22/05/2022 at 15:26, chuffinghell said:


My first choice would have been lead but not practical for obvious reasons, so my preferred choice was brass or phosphor bronze having a higher density than stainless but they didn’t have any in stock so the choice was made for me……and as they made them for me for nowt as a favour I was in no position to complain

 

How about some depleted uranium? (I actually know of some race teams who used it for ballast...)

 

On 22/05/2022 at 16:10, chuffinghell said:

Still awake? 😂

 

What was that, were you saying something?

 

On 22/05/2022 at 18:22, chuffinghell said:

I’ve been trying to find a video tutorial on YouTube with regards to airbrush weathering locos but they all appear to be the weathering of black locos or diesels

 

 

Try and see if you can find any of Tim Shackleton's Right Track videos, they are very good. I found the Martin Welch book frustrating due to the B&W pics and also being mostly 7mm. Some of the techniques translate down, others not so much (unless you have a microscope and 000000 size brush).

 

Ref the Vallejo paint, I've only just tried some and it is really good, changing my views on acrylics. I'd also tried Railmatch and they were a pig to spray, getting the right thinning ratio was a nightmare and I was always getting tip dry hence why I gave up on them. The colour match you got is a lot closer than some megabucks manufacturers, be proud of it, you deserve to be.

 

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On the subject of weathering, and harking back to my suggestion of using weathering powders, I came across these whilst looking for something else today and thought these two images might be instructive.

 

This is obviously heavily weathered, as that was the state of the prototype at the time I am modelling, so you probably wouldn't go this far, but this was achieved with weathering powders applied with a soft makeup brush, and then a coat of Matt varnish from a rattlecan.

 

First a Hornby J94 more or less as it came, with the crew and some coal added:

 

ladmanlow667.jpg.3331cdd36341bde9cb89bc584f2583a4.jpg

 

ladmanlow665.jpg.ff96c3fc370de8384ab5cbf2a5927bdd.jpg

 

Then after application of Humbrol Rust, Dark Earth and Smoke weathering powders, and a blast of matt varnish to seal:

 

ladmanlow672.jpg.726be190eee1fa1abaf10efa9b6b0edb.jpg

 

ladmanlow669b.jpg.9113e78ca6f84de4b9ed0c0fb67a2f6b.jpg

 

This was done in May 2019, and the loco still looks much the same, so the end result is pretty durable, despite much handling in the meantime:

 

 

ladmanlow1872.jpg.906b9481d427f5b986a932059fafd5d3.jpg

(taken at Doncaster this year)

 

 

I hope that gives you some ideas.

 

Al.

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Unlike Al, I haven't varnished the locos I've weathered. I think I was worried that it all might look pants and I knew that powders can be washed off if you do make a Horlicks of it. The locos have stayed weathered despite not being varnished.

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The Project AA7 saga continues. Following the initial test prints I’ve now taken a look at adding more detail

 

1BC7E553-D79F-4C9B-A65E-9B2BF0E2ECCE.jpeg.159abf8997fa6d77b6aabe74bcd33f67.jpeg

 

Again these are low resolution test prints


B20F2A0C-0B8C-4466-9C0A-20CC8AE0D281.jpeg.3bd987de793e701d76ef72cdb4882094.jpeg

 

34ED4878-4F60-4716-8EAB-04CA9A0B4A29.jpeg.8caa7bc32f4e8ae5ece955f3e7071bad.jpeg

 

C789439C-B125-457A-A7F7-3D6B610C69C9.jpeg.b437ad2a06bae4ae98b9d940754b0982.jpeg

 

I am also going to attempt to print the chassis in one piece instead of three individual pieces.

 

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Thanks Rob, I think the boxes are too narrow so I’ll have to make them wider and possibly thicken up the lever because it’s quite flimsy but otherwise it’s turned out better than expected (because I didn’t expect the levers to print at all)

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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