Warren Branch

[chuffinghell]

7 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

You'll need a break to link to the removable section though?

 

I'll make the cut after the track is glued in position to maintain the alignment.........that's the theory

 

I'm adding droppers to every individual length of track so as not to rely on the rail joiners, I'll have droppers either side of the join connected via a plug of some description

Edited May 7, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Harlequin]

You're quite right to take rail expansion into account. I can tell you from experience that it is a real phenomenon!

The rails will move where they are least well fixed. So if you fixed them solidly to copperclad (or whatever) at the joint they would probably push inwards and maintain the gap at the joint rather than coming into contact.

 

[Martin S-C]

I have read that it is never wise to rely on a baseboard track break as an electrical break as well, for this very reason.

[chuffinghell]

5 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

You're quite right to take rail expansion into account. I can tell you from experience that it is a real phenomenon!

The rails will move where they are least well fixed. So if you fixed them solidly to copperclad (or whatever) at the joint they would probably push inwards and maintain the gap at the joint rather than coming into contact.

 

 

I have thought about dispensing with the 'orrible joiners, leaving a gap but glue a piece of plasticard in the gap

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

2 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

I have read that it is never wise to rely on a baseboard track break as an electrical break as well, for this very reason.

 

Originality I was going to rely on the baseboard joint as the isolation gap but I changed my mind for that very reason

[chuffinghell]

13 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

"You're quite right"

 

 

That doesn't happen very often

 

I'll have to screen shot your reply, printed it, laminate it and put it up on the wall 

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Harlequin]

8 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

 

Originality I was going to rely on the baseboard joint as the isolation gap but I changed my mind for that very reason

Like I say, it's OK if the rails are fixed solidly at the joint because they expand elsewhere. I had a 2ft length of (code75) track do that in the sunny weather earlier this year: It is fixed to copperclad at a baseboard joint and butted up against the next length of track further inboard. It solved the expansion problem for itself by breaking the PVA bonding with the cork underlay and becoming bow shaped!

 

People are right to not rely on simple gaps for isolation where the rails are not securely fixed, though.

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by Harlequin

[chuffinghell]

3 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Like I say, it's OK if the rails are fixed solidly at the joint because they expand elsewhere. I had a 2ft length of (code75) track do that in the sunny weather earlier this year: It is fixed to copperclad at a baseboard joint and butted up against the next length of track further inboard. It solved the expansion problem for itself by breaking the PVA bonding to the cork underlay and becoming bow shaped!

 

People are right to not rely on simple gaps for isolation where the rails are not securely fixed, though.

 

 

That's quite a scary thought, especially happening over such a short length

 

Fortunately the majority of the track terminates at a dead end, so maybe I should introduce an additional gap on the return loop to allow for any future expansion?..........it means extra droppers but I do  need the extra soldering practice

[chuffinghell]

It's also true that the baseboard material will expand and contract, this is why I used MDF as it expands and contracts in a different way to plywood, however Just like Gremlins don't get it wet

 

The boards have been in place for nearly twelve months so I'm hoping the boards have acclimatised to the room.......this is a far better excuse for taking so long to lay the track especially when the truth is I've spend 12 months changing the track plans

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

4 hours ago, Harlequin said:

........I can tell you from experience that it is a real phenomenon!

The rails will move where they are least well fixed

 

 

We don't get the same warm weather in Staffordshire as Devon though

 

It's one of these reasons I've suggested a holiday in Devon, I've suggested maybe Beer, Seaton.........for no particular reason, honest your honour 

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Martin S-C]

North Devon is nice too - Minehead, Watchet, Bishops Lydiard, Lynton, Barnstaple... Just, you know, nice scenery.

I think we would all be wise to try and climate change-proof our layout construction as much as we can. I'm guessing palm trees will be at home in Staffordshire in 50 years time.

Edited May 7, 2019 by Martin S-C

[Schooner]

5 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

...I've spend 12 months changing the track plans

 

 

...12 months improving the track plans from what I've been following. Both the build and planning threads are an inspirarion...just sayin'

 

Cheers,

 

Schooner

 

[chuffinghell]

More ar*ing about.....just a test though

[calvin Streeting]

Can you cover that with a walk way crossing?

[chuffinghell]

3 minutes ago, Schooner said:

 

...12 months improving the track plans from what I've been following. Both the build and planning threads are an inspirarion...just sayin'

 

Cheers,

 

Schooner

 

 

Thank you, that’s very good of you to say

 

Chris

[AlfaZagato]

Epoxy the sleepers, and call it clean.

[chuffinghell]

Started to modify my Y points this evening

 

Isolated the frog (as per the LH & RH points) unfortunately I managed to ‘graze’ one of the outer rails so I will have to replace the point

 

 

To save on soldering dropper wires I’ve bent the bridging wires thus:-

 

Which I’ll put through the baseboard and attach the wires underneath

 

 

Edited May 8, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

I’m assuming this will work?

[5BarVT]

22 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I’m assuming this will work?

It’s what I do, but neater. I may copy.

I have a point just like yours where I ‘missed’ with the disc cutter!  Fortunately I have a spare to replace it.

Paul.

[St Enodoc]

6 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Started to modify my Y points this evening

 

Isolated the frog (as per the LH & RH points) unfortunately I managed to ‘graze’ one of the outer rails so I will have to replace the point

 

 

To save on soldering dropper wires I’ve bent the bridging wires thus:-

 

Which I’ll put through the baseboard and attach the wires underneath

 

 

 

2 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

It’s what I do, but neater. I may copy.

I have a point just like yours where I ‘missed’ with the disc cutter!  Fortunately I have a spare to replace it.

Paul.

Why not fill the "nick" with solder then file the profile back?

[Stubby47]

Or put a PW gang on site looking at it.

 

For expansion joints, try cutting the rail at an angle,  45°+. Whilst maintaining the smooth flow of wheels, there is then much more lateral movement available for the rail.

[chuffinghell]

6 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

 

Why not fill the "nick" with solder then file the profile back?

 

I'm not too confident in my soldering ability but I'll give it a try

 

24 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

For expansion joints, try cutting the rail at an angle,  45°+. Whilst maintaining the smooth flow of wheels, there is then much more lateral movement available for the rail.

 

That's a good idea and worth considering

[chuffinghell]

On 07/05/2019 at 11:31, Harlequin said:

...........those 'orrible nylon joiners.

 

 

I did a little tinkering last night, I cut down the length of the 'orrible joiner and gave it a quick blast with spray paint to see what it would look like if left in place and weathered

 

 

Ignore the sleepers either side of the join, the layout will have full length sleepers not the setrack ones

 

 

Edited May 9, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

The other reasons for doing this is that are 

 

1) I can use a full sleeper without having to modify it to accommodate the joiner

 

2) If in future I decide to remove said 'orrible joiner it will be much easier cut it out 

 

There is usually method in my madness 

[chuffinghell]

First length now gluing in place (weighted down with 32mm steel bars) 

 

Droppers soldered to each individual piece so as not to rely on the fish plates

 

Ive started with this particular run as it’s a straight length across the join, once dry I will use this fixed length as the datum/starting point for the rest of the track..... I’ve had to start somewhere 

 

Its taking me a while but my soldering is getting better

 

Just taking it slow and steady

Edited May 12, 2019 by chuffinghell