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Oxford Rail announce J27 at Toy Fair


Andy Y
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19 hours ago, thetalkinlens said:

Can anyone offer advice on fitting the supplied 3 link coupling? I can't for the life of me see a brake in the chain link to fit it through the hole on the hook.

I cheated and secured it with a dab of superglue on top of the hook and over the hole. Can’t tell without the +2.00 ‘readers’ on :blind:

97EC11C7-8C50-4725-A81A-9D8C5B54BEBE.jpeg

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Very, very carefully snip through the middle of the soft plastic top of the hole in the hook once using Xurons or wire cutters. You will then be able to 'snap' the wire coupling loop into the hole and the 'cut' should close over it for safe retention in the correct orientation.

         Hope this helps,

 

                                Regards,

                                                    John

                                              

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Thanks for replies @Brit70053 and @MikeParkin65. I thought the hook was metal on first glance, but have realised its plastic. The rear hook released itself from the tender very easily while I was attempting to fit the links. I'd like to run the loco with three link couplings rather than the tension locks, so will have to investigate fitting some metal hooks.

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Looking for advice for a not so good runner. Every rotation, there is a slight slowdown, followed by a small speed increase.

This happens at the spot where the connecting rod on the left wheels is on the down (six o' clock) position, and the right hand one at the back or three o' clock. 

If i drive backwards, it is with the left hand wheels in the back or 9 o'clock and right wheels with the rod in the top position.

When  I disconnect them, there seems to be no problem at all.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

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On 18/02/2022 at 16:29, Johan DC said:

Looking for advice for a not so good runner. Every rotation, there is a slight slowdown, followed by a small speed increase.

This happens at the spot where the connecting rod on the left wheels is on the down (six o' clock) position, and the right hand one at the back or three o' clock. 

If i drive backwards, it is with the left hand wheels in the back or 9 o'clock and right wheels with the rod in the top position.

When  I disconnect them, there seems to be no problem at all.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

I'm a little confused (not hard to do - not your fault!) by your description of the problem but the most common faults to date have been the rods making contact with the steps  mid way along the footplate and the rear sandpipes fouling the rail or sleepers. The pickups can also make either poor contact with the wheels or conversely be misaligned with the backs of the wheels and impede motion by getting trapped in the spokes. Have you tried running it with the body removed? 

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22 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said:

I'm a little confused (not hard to do - not your fault!) by your description of the problem but the most common faults to date have been the rods making contact with the steps  mid way along the footplate and the rear sandpipes fouling the rail or sleepers. The pickups can also make either poor contact with the wheels or conversely be misaligned with the backs of the wheels and impede motion by getting trapped in the spokes. Have you tried running it with the body removed? 

Sorry for the confusion, might be my limitation of knowing the correct English terms. I tried it with the body removed, because I also thought it was the steps. It had the problems with the contacts as wel, but if I run it without them, it still happend. If I disconnect the driving rods, the geardriven axle has no problem, but when I only add the front axle to it (leaving the middle one out) it happens again. I haven't tried it yet with only the driven and Middle axle yet.  I'll try to make a video later this weekend. Thanks already for the help!

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From your description Johan it sounds as though there might be a problem with the 'quartering' - the  angle which the wheels are set in relation to each other on the opposite sides of the loco. If this isn't consistent across all axles then there will be a tight spot on each revolution of the wheels with the side rods on, but with the rods off the problem will disappear.

 

I haven't had to deal with this problem on an Oxford Rail loco but have come across it on older Hornby and Bachmann locos. The remedy is to identify which pair of wheels has the inconsistency and adjust them by twisting gently. If you're not confident of doing this it might be better to return the model and ask for a replacement.

 

It could also be possible that one of the pins that hold the rods in place has not gone in at 90 degrees to the face of the wheel which would give the same problem.

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On 26/02/2022 at 10:12, Neil said:

From your description Johan it sounds as though there might be a problem with the 'quartering' - the  angle which the wheels are set in relation to each other on the opposite sides of the loco. If this isn't consistent across all axles then there will be a tight spot on each revolution of the wheels with the side rods on, but with the rods off the problem will disappear.

...

 The remedy is to identify which pair of wheels has the inconsistency and adjust them by twisting gently. If you're not confident of doing this it might be better to return the model and ask for a replacement.

Hello Neil,. 

It was indeed the quartering. Lesson learned, and more importantly, problem fixed.

 

I used to send faulty stock back (well, only once had a problem with an A4 and got great service from Rails) but since Brexit this really is not an option anymore. I even try to buy in French, Dutch or German shops to avoid the extra cost and shipping time. 

Thanks a lot, much apreciated! 

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Hello Johan I'm glad to hear that the problem is now fixed. I can sympathise with the Bexit issues, I've found it noticeably more complex sending stuff to the EU and I know that there are extra charges for the recipient but until now I hadn't considered how it would affect returning goods that weren't satisfactory. 

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I was having a closer look at the LNER lined 1214 in my local model shop today and it occurred to me that the lining out was pretty close, if not the same as N.E.R. 1904 - 1917 period livery for freight loco's as carried by 2392 in preservation. The model also has "Class P3" on the bufferbeam. Reasonably acceptable backdating could only involve N.E.R. letting on the tender and a numberplate on the cabsides unless I'm thinking a bit too simply?

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I've been working on my Oxford J27. What a delightful model it is.

 

I'll write a blog entry later but here's a teaser snap.. 

 

Caley tastic!

 

Finished as 65802 of Percy Main depot. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Mark

 

Blog Entry Link:

 

 

 

 

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  • 6 months later...
On 21/09/2022 at 05:21, Johan DC said:

I broke one of the buffershanks (is that the correct name?) Wouldn't be a problem if I didn't loose the broken parts. Any idea where I might get a replacement? Metal of plastic is fine. 

Alan Gibson workshop has NER loco buffers you may end up replacing all 4 but they are a nice substitute. 

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On 25/01/2022 at 22:15, Worsdell forever said:

 

 

That's pretty good running for something that doesn't have a High Level gearbox in!

Mine, alas has the pick up issues and I'm going to have to give it some major tweaks. I wonder if there's an opportunity for somebody to make a better quality drop-in arrangement with perhaps slightly stiffer brass.

 

Davy.

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On 18/10/2022 at 09:59, Mad McCann said:

That's pretty good running for something that doesn't have a High Level gearbox in!

Mine

 

 I found my high level gearbox's with High Level coreless motor to be better performers on DC but that's not to take anything away from the Oxford rail J27 chassis. Mine would happily run at 0.18 volts (yep there's a zero in there) starting voltage being about 0.2v

The example in the Vid has been converted to EM and I just bent the pick ups out marginally to maintain electrical contact. It was ran from cold & had no prior running in.

 

Not bad running considering its cost. What do you reckon?

 

 

Edited by Porcy Mane
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2 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

 I found my high level gearbox's with High Level coreless motor to be better performers on DC but that's not to take anything away from the Oxford rail J27 chassis. I found mine would happily run at 0.18 volts (yep there's a zero in there) starting voltage being about 0.2v

The example in the Vid has been converted to EM and I just bent the pick ups out marginally to maintain electrical contact. It was ran from cold & had no prior running in.

 

Not bad running considering its cost. What do you reckon?

 

 

 

Now enjoy yourself grinding out the wheelarches to fit the chassis back!!

Been there, done that.

 

Pete

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5 hours ago, pete55 said:

Now enjoy yourself grinding out the wheelarches to fit the chassis back!!

 

 As you say, "been there, done that". I've since taken to thinning the wheels by turning off the outside face of the un-prototypical dished tyre rim. Far less time consuming that grinding out splashers/running plates.

 

J27-OR-Meddling-167-EditSM.jpg.15939feabf31d430c4d10b83cdc421db.jpg

 

What I found much more laborious was getting rid of all those rivets along the running pate top & around the splashers that Oxford Rail for some reason, gave us as freebies.

 

J27-OR-Meddling-170-EditSM.jpg.ee289e2ae023f259ca41300025bbb925.jpg

 

Thanks to the two Richards I've now got a Mk1 Bradwell chassis and etched coping plates, so working inside motion here I come?

 

Hoping all is well, down your way.

 

P

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41 minutes ago, micklner said:

The Splashers surrounds had the Rivets .

 

But not the way OR has represented them by giving us double that of the prototype. Easy to remove every other one though.

 

270709540_65792c1950PwD-Coll-Sm.jpg.13baee980c909df1edb56d04d1ac323e.jpg

 

J27-2016-Rebuild-005-EditSm.jpg.a7ecbdf5a33c4e228a415c21ae22c915.jpg

 

P

(who finds counting rivets quite relaxing).

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11 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

 As you say, "been there, done that". I've since taken to thinning the wheels by turning off the outside face of the un-prototypical dished tyre rim. Far less time consuming that grinding out splashers/running plates.

 

J27-OR-Meddling-167-EditSM.jpg.15939feabf31d430c4d10b83cdc421db.jpg

 

What I found much more laborious was getting rid of all those rivets along the running pate top & around the splashers that Oxford Rail for some reason, gave us as freebies.

 

J27-OR-Meddling-170-EditSM.jpg.ee289e2ae023f259ca41300025bbb925.jpg

 

Thanks to the two Richards I've now got a Mk1 Bradwell chassis and etched coping plates, so working inside motion here I come?

 

Hoping all is well, down your way.

 

P

 

I re wheeled Phils J27 with Gibsons to EM, but still a fair ammount of splasher grinding was needed. I didn't touch the footplate rivets, leaving that for Phil to do if he wanted to.

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3 hours ago, Paul_sterling said:

 

Should The flanged base of the splashers not be bolt heads to fasten it down? Oxford have gone a bit crackers with how many there is, they should be more spread out. 

My Bradwell version has Rivets , as now pointed out with more space as well  !!

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