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To stimulate discussion, post photos and exchange ideas, and (being an open public forum) help encourage others to try S scale modelling.

What's on your S Scale Workbench?


ScottW
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  • 1 month later...

More wagons I'm afraid!

 

I had intended to have a break from wagon building but another small side project requires a 9' 0" WB wagon as a guinea pig.

 

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These are Caledonian Railway Dia. 3 vans. The main bodies were produced by a fellow member of the S Scale Society on his CNC milling machine.

Edited by ScottW
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Past 12 months or so I have been working on making a kit for a manning wardle old class I.   Varing degrees of success using a mix of 3D and etched components. 

 

However, on such a small loco I keep comming back to the challenge as to whether it would be possible to make a complete 3D printed loco, included a 3D printed chassis.   Others have achieved this but i am interested to see if I have the skills to do this for myself.

 

I have drawn most of the loco in Fusion 360 but before I go too far I want to experiment with a chassis.

 

So I logged onto Amazon and purchased a resin printer.  

 

First couple of prints were a disaster.   But following email and telephone coaching from some other members I woke up this morning and found a perfectly formed chassis with integrated boiler on my build plate.

 

A quick wash and cure then this evening I started to see if the chassis can be made to run.

 

 

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Edited by Timber
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To keep this model really simple I decided to run the axles in the 3D printed resin.  The resin is pretty tough and very smooth.  I elongated the holes slightly to alow a little vertical movement.  

 

Pickups are pogo plungers that simply push in.   The motor and gear box are high level.

 

The gearbox I had pre built - but the whole construction took less then one hour this evening.

IMG_0227.jpg

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The connecting rods are etches and this is where I encountered a small challenge.  Resin shrinks and I compensated with 3% shrinkage.   But I am not sure that this was required.   The axles fit really snug but the connecting rods are a little long.  I have some spares so simply cut and soldered pairs together to fit.

 

I put it on the track and it works pretty well.   The challenge is that it is so light that there is very little garvitational effect.  The consequence is that this model rocks a little.  But the chassis is very true and given how easy this construction method it feels that it deserves a bit of extra effort before I give up.

 

So I have redesigned the chassis limiting the vertical axle movement - will see if this improves operation.

 

 

IMG-0234.jpg

Edited by Timber
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I'm glad you sorted the printing in the end.

It really is a bit of a 'Black Art' but very satisfying when you wake up to a perfect print dripping from the build plate.

Have the frames shrunk very much lengthwise?

Being the (not very) longest part they should give you some idea of the shrinkage allowance required to fit your existing rods.

A bit of experimentation will soon get you there.

Onwards and upwards

Rob

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24 minutes ago, ScottW said:

Would fitting some brass top-hat bushes not make for a better, free running, chassis?

Possibly but I am keen to explore using plastic.   It goes like a rocket - but at the moment a wobbly rocket.  

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5 minutes ago, Rob R said:

I'm glad you sorted the printing in the end.

It really is a bit of a 'Black Art' but very satisfying when you wake up to a perfect print dripping from the build plate.

Have the frames shrunk very much lengthwise?

Being the (not very) longest part they should give you some idea of the shrinkage allowance required to fit your existing rods.

A bit of experimentation will soon get you there.

Onwards and upwards

Rob

Rob and thank you for your help.   The frames are very square.  No warping that I can make out.  I am printing again tonight with medium supports.  

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This is great! 3D printers really have opened up a new world of possibilities. With the printing, I've found 3 things to be key - especially when printing larger items such as this: orientation (makes sure everything's the right shape with crisp edges and layer lines are kept to a minimum), supports (correct positioning and size) and the temperature at which it's printed in. I print in my garage so the last one is hugely important to stop a load of failed prints. If the resin chassis performs over time, this could be very interesting!

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Yes - i have an etch and the 3D parts.   With every model my Fusion skills are getting better so rather than improve old artwork I have taken the time to completely redraw.   More work to do on the cab,  bunker and chassis but this is the integrated artwork.  Once complete I will put the STLs in this area of RMWeb.

 

 

Screenshot (134).png

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Last night I reprinted the chassis.   I did not clean the resin so the detail suffered.  But the adjustments I made worked.  

 

If possible I would like to create a model that anyone new  joining the society who just needed a basic loco could use these prints.   Nothing fancy but something that can be built in a weekend rather than several months.

 

Front wheel wobbles as I dropped the model just before the video was made.

 

 

Edited by Timber
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24 minutes ago, Timber said:

Last night I reprinted the chassis.   I did not clean the resin so the detail suffered.  But the adjustments I made worked.  

 

If possible I would like to create a model that anyone new  joining the society who just needed a basic loco could use these prints.   Nothing fancy but something that can be built in a weekend rather than several months.

 

Front wheel wobbles as I dropped the model just before the video was made.

 

 

I love Manning Wardles, so this is really up my alley!

 

I think the idea of a 'starter kit' offered by the S scale society is a great way of getting new people into this oft-overlooked scale.

I myself have toyed with the idea of having a dabble in it for quite a while, but never took the opportunity to make the leap. Perhaps this loco is what might give me the push to start modelling in S...

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Brilliant stuff. Hopefully getting a resin 3D printer soon so brushing up on my own limitied Fusion skills.  A printed chassis would be a great way of getting up and running.

The current project is getting an RC battery chassis to work (I have a 'really' daft idea about S in the garden as an extension to an indoor layout). 

 

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Having shared my pain on the "whats on your printer" section of RMWeb, I am back here now with a finished print.  I have the MW printed body with an integrated chassis plus a seperate etched chassis.   I want to pursue trying to make a printed chassis work but if this proves to be a non starter, I can revert to etch.  

 

The saddle will be printed seperately and sit between the two "wings" on the bolier, being held in place with a micro magnet.   I will print this seperately along with some new wheels.

 

The print is of modest standard compared to some that have been shared in this section of RMWeb - but it is more than I would have wished for this time last week when I was struggling with the basics.

 

The notch at the back of the smokebox is for the bracket that connects the saddle to the body, this is part of the saddle print.

 

 

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Edited by Timber
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This is excellent! I must have a look at the What's on you printer thread....seem to have missed that. I often have problems printing the 'bigger' stuff like this.I'm sure its down to where I'm placing the supports (or not placing them more likely!). You've achieved a superb level of detail.

John

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  • 2 months later...
On 07/03/2022 at 19:52, ScottW said:

It has been slow going but they are finally finished.

 

 

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Scott

 

 

What's your recipe for the inside wood? Cream and grey? Brown? My brain can't distinguish the colours apart from 'this is unpainted wood'.

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  • 2 months later...

I must appologise @Lacathedrale for not replying sooner, I've only just read your post.

 

Usually I give the inside of the wagon a coating of a light natural wood colour, normally Humbrol 93 despite it actually being desert yellow, then apply a number of grey washes over the top. Nothing too technical.

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