Any S-Scale Question Answered

[MarshLane]

17 hours ago, ianb3174 said:

In the spirit of Question Time, what do the panel suggest as the best approach to ballast? I'm a byway type line, so what would be appropriate in S?

I have used ballast from C&L mixed with some 'ash' before, that worked quite nicely, but like all things I suppose its personal preference!

[Regularity]

57 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

I have used ballast from C&L mixed with some 'ash' before, that worked quite nicely, but like all things I suppose its personal preference!

And trial and error.

Edited November 15, 2021 by Regularity
“Tidal and error”?

[flubrush]

I might add my experience of a year or two ago when I was ballasting my American switching layout.  I normally use the method of damping the ballast and dropping on diluted PVA or latex glue with drops of washing up liquid added.   The ballast I had was some I had acquired way back in the eighties - one of the Woodlands products I think it was.   All seemed to go well with the ballasting until a day or two later when I found that the ballast had swelled to a height sufficient to foul the wheel flanges.   I suspect that the ballast had been made from some material like ground bark which could absorb water.  Next time I'll make sure it's made from stone. :-)

 

Jim.

[steverabone]

Like flubrush I used to use the dilute PVA and washing up liquid method. However for all my S Scale layouts I have ballasted using undiluted PVA applied with a small paint brush around the sleepers and then sprinkle the ballast - usually Woodlands Scenics stone -  onto that. I do a few inches at a time and then leave a gap of a couple of inches before repeating the process several times. Before dropping the ballast onto the PVA I wipe any stray glue off the surface of the sleepers with my fingers. Once the PVA under first batch of ballasted track has dried I remove the ballast with a handle held vacuum cleaner and reuse the surplus ballast. Then I fill in the gaps between the previous applications. So far all the ballast has stayed in place and by careful application of the PVA the point tiebars have never glued solid as can easily happen with the diluted PVA method.

 

Whilst I don't enjoy ballasting doing a little at a time this way soon sees the layout ballasted.

[Regularity]

I think the WS “ballast” was ground crushed walnut shells, or similar.

As with everything S, though, as long as you use the same track and wheel standards as everyone else (unless you are the only one following a strange prototype, or accept that you are on your own), then you are free to do whatever you want with everything else.

[ianb3174]

My next question is to contestant number 2.

Is there, to anyone's knowledge, an S scale BB gauge available for purchase? Specifically I'd like one of the type that is a grooved brass bar which would also help me true up wheels on axles. I've got a number of wheelsets that are out of true a small amount and although I can run my verniers between they remain annoyingly out of kilter. I can either make them slightly out, or very out. Neither option is what I need. 

Thanks in advance

[MarshLane]

2 hours ago, ianb3174 said:

My next question is to contestant number 2.

Is there, to anyone's knowledge, an S scale BB gauge available for purchase? Specifically I'd like one of the type that is a grooved brass bar which would also help me true up wheels on axles. I've got a number of wheelsets that are out of true a small amount and although I can run my verniers between they remain annoyingly out of kilter. I can either make them slightly out, or very out. Neither option is what I need. 

Thanks in advance

 

Hi Ian,

The Parts Officer has a B2B gauge made out of L shape steel that should achieve what you want I think.  I have one - it came in useful for kit building too being metal!

Richie

[steverabone]

On 22/11/2021 at 20:57, MarshLane said:

I've got a number of wheelsets that are out of true a small amount and although I can run my verniers between they remain annoyingly out of kilter.

Are these wheels the plastic centred Gibson wheels? I found (in the days when I used these wheels on rolling stock) that sometimes the plastic centres were not pressed properly into the metal tyres. Pushing them out and the pressing them back in again with a drop of superglue often cured the problem. The same has happened with some of the loco wheels that I continue to use.

 

I can vouch for the usefulness of the L shaped back to back gauges.

[Regularity]

You can also use Loctite retainer - if using superglue, use a thin one.

[ianb3174]

2 hours ago, steverabone said:

Are these wheels the plastic centred Gibson wheels? I found (in the days when I used these wheels on rolling stock) that sometimes the plastic centres were not pressed properly into the metal tyres. Pushing them out and the pressing them back in again with a drop of superglue often cured the problem. The same has happened with some of the loco wheels that I continue to use.

 

I can vouch for the usefulness of the L shaped back to back gauges.

I believe they are. I shall try your technique and see if it improves the running

[ianb3174]

Quick question for the S'ers (or from any other scale really) 

I want to build a test rig mule loco. Basically it doesn't need to be much more than a bogie or 4w chassis capable of holding a motor, and possibly a battery. I haven't ruled out track power just yet, so would fit pickups as well.

I could use wagon wheels but would I be able to get gears to fit the diameter without too much faff? 

I have an old HO scale diesel chassis that could work if I change the wheels/axles as that has the motor in place ( and a bit of weight). 

Thought I'd ask on here first for sensible, knowledgable answers before shooting off down some blind alley of daftness.

 

[Regularity]

Not sure what your question is, to be honest, but it’s little more than finding things that fit, so if the gears on your motor bogie (or whatever) are 2mm bore, you can fit those gears to wagon axles.

[ScottW]

Personaly I'm not a fan of cobling things together that doesn't resemble anything, for me thats just a waste of valuable modelling time. If you want a test mule then why not buy something simple like a set of 02 etches from Worsley Works. Regardless of how much detail you want to add to it at least it would still resemble a proper locomotive which, at a later date, you could finish off if you so wished.

[ianb3174]

I don't have a great range of things that fit tbf. I've never built very much and my gloat box is nothing to gloat about, just mainly incompatible wheels and odd shaped bits

[ianb3174]

1 minute ago, ScottW said:

Personaly I'm not a fan of cobling things together that doesn't resemble anything, for me thats just a waste of valuable modelling time. If you want a test mule then why not buy something simple like a set of 02 etches from Worsley Works. Regardless of how much detail you want to add to it at least it would still resemble a proper locomotive which, at a later date, you could finish off if you so wished.

Cracking idea. I'm glad I thought of it

[Regularity]

For that matter, I have a spare etch for an LNER Y7 for a tenner.

[flubrush]

Following up on Scott's suggestions,  to make things easier for yourself,  dig around for a prototype which will suit a driver from the Markits 4mm range then get some S scale Romford style axles from Paul Greene and you've overcome the major problem of wheels.  Then you can use a lot of 4mm parts to complete your chassis.  I have used Alan Gibson's adjustable 4mm coupling rods in S scale to good effect (Current Gibson catalogue Page 18 Part 4M92).  Or you can really cheat and go for a GER tram loco where you can get away with anything underneath it. :-)

 

Jim.

[ianb3174]

Spare etch you say? Sounds like something that would work. 

[ianb3174]

18 hours ago, flubrush said:

Following up on Scott's suggestions,  to make things easier for yourself,  dig around for a prototype which will suit a driver from the Markits 4mm range then get some S scale Romford style axles from Paul Greene and you've overcome the major problem of wheels.  Then you can use a lot of 4mm parts to complete your chassis.  I have used Alan Gibson's adjustable 4mm coupling rods in S scale to good effect (Current Gibson catalogue Page 18 Part 4M92).  Or you can really cheat and go for a GER tram loco where you can get away with anything underneath it. :-)

 

Jim.

I have some axles and bits on order for this very purpose.