inglenook Frost's Mill

[SteveyDee68]

And looking through again I just realised that you had shown the gate before in your picture of the Ruston 48DS!

 

 

What I was looking for was to find out what the back of your warehouse looked like!  I shall guess a plain wall; ah, the joys of stealing oops being inspired by another person's design!

Edited May 7, 2020 by SteveyDee68
Finished text!

[Locksley]

6 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

What I was looking for was to find out what the back of your warehouse looked like!  I shall guess a plain wall; ah, the joys of stealing oops being inspired by another person's design!

 

You don't wanna see the back of the warehouse It's just an empty space full of the remains of the print support structure lol

[Locksley]

Dimmed the headlamps a tad but still need to add a bit more paint behind to block the remaining light bleed.

 

 

I've also been doing some work on a few bits of rolling stock. The 2 vans I believe are Parkside kits however I got them already built from a friend who was moving to O gauge, and simply painted them up 5 or 6 years back. Although they had a bit of lead inside weren't quite heavy enough for my liking so I prised the rooves off and poured a decent amount of divers weights in there so they now both weigh a ton and will hopefully act more realistically. I'm never going to move more than 2 at a time on Frost's Mill so wanted them a bit heavier than I normally would. The Fitted 16t is a another Parkside kit from the same friend however unbuilt so I popped that one together at the weekend and again filled it with weight, albeit this time car wheel weights, before topping off with some real coal.

 

 

I added a pair of Smiths Instanters to the 16tonner just for some variety, and as far as I can tell they tended to use them over 3 links.

 

 

I quite fancy getting some more stock, probably building up a collection of 4 or 5 wagons from a few different eras to run with appropriate motive power as I've deliberately tried to keep the layout fairly era neutral. Probably a few private owner wagons, 1 or 2 more early BR bits, then some TOPS stuff maybe.

[johnd]

What a great diorama/layout you've created here, really like it and an inspiration. Out of interest what is the measurements of the baseboard ?

[Locksley]

1 hour ago, johnd said:

What a great diorama/layout you've created here, really like it and an inspiration. Out of interest what is the measurements of the baseboard ?

 

Cheers! It's 760mm long x 260mm wide

[SteveyDee68]

So far, I have been stocking up on bits and pieces in order to change all the tension lock couplings on my stock to the same type (as I have many second hand and older items I have a lot of different types ranging from Lima "bumper bars" to Airfix "mega narrows" and all points in between).  However, the more I look at your stock with proper hooks and chain couplings, the more I am tempted to "go authentic"

 

Couple of questions (if I may) - what do you use to couple/uncouple, how awkward is it doing suchlike with other stock in the way, where do you actually get hooks/chains from, how difficult are they to fit, would you recommend a brand, should I be concerned about buffer lock having used set track points on my micro?

 

Okay, more than a couple! 

 

Also, how heavy are your wagons? I've weighted mine up with car wheel weights to 40g for a short wheelbase wagon, 50g for a long wheelbase and 65g for bogie wagons.  Possibly overkill, but you say about putting more weight in than you normally would, so am interested.  (Plus I guess it stops stock rolling around when hooking up!)

 

Steve S

[Locksley]

1 hour ago, SteveyDee68 said:

So far, I have been stocking up on bits and pieces in order to change all the tension lock couplings on my stock to the same type (as I have many second hand and older items I have a lot of different types ranging from Lima "bumper bars" to Airfix "mega narrows" and all points in between).  However, the more I look at your stock with proper hooks and chain couplings, the more I am tempted to "go authentic"

 

Couple of questions (if I may) - what do you use to couple/uncouple, how awkward is it doing suchlike with other stock in the way, where do you actually get hooks/chains from, how difficult are they to fit, would you recommend a brand, should I be concerned about buffer lock having used set track points on my micro?

 

Okay, more than a couple! 

 

Also, how heavy are your wagons? I've weighted mine up with car wheel weights to 40g for a short wheelbase wagon, 50g for a long wheelbase and 65g for bogie wagons.  Possibly overkill, but you say about putting more weight in than you normally would, so am interested.  (Plus I guess it stops stock rolling around when hooking up!)

 

Steve S

 

For coupling/uncoupling I use a length of 0.45mm brass wire with the very end bent to just over 90deg to form a hook, then I glued the 'handle' end into a small piece of plastic tube (I'll grab a photo later).

 

It's only slightly more awkward than using tension locks, and once you get the knack it's not bad at all. I think it's worth it for the more realistic appearance. It's also means a bit more authentic operation as you can now properly buffer up to trains, take up slack etc.

 

I use Roger Smith ones (or just Smith as I think they're now known) available from various places but here as an example: https://www.petersspares.com/smiths-smiths-couplings-oo.irc   The hooks are slightly larger/more exaggerated than they would be on the real thing but it makes them much easier to hook up. They come in a few flavours, including kit form or ready assembled. I always go for kit form as they're easy peasy to put together with either a small pair of pliers or even tweezers.

 

In terms of fitting them, they're designed to slide through a rectangular hole and are then held in place from behind with a spring and split pin to allow movement as per the real ones. I think the easiest way to add them to RTR stock is to remove whatever hook is already there, then drill two holes, one above the other and then carefully slice out the bit of plastic between them to form the hole. For the locos I've fitted them on (48DS & Sentinel) I basically just pulled out the plastic hook then superglued in the Smith hook in place after clipping off most of the shaft. It's held up so far.

 

 

I've used the tightest radius Hornby settrack on Frost's Mill and havent noticed any issues with short wheelbase wagons bufferlocking. The 48DS and Sentinel are both fine also, but I think the larger dia buffers help (as with real locos).

 

No idea how heavy the wagons are, I'll weigh them later, but they are fairly heavy now. It remains to be seen how they perform as I haven't actually tried them since. Might be spending the evening carving out bits of lead lol.

 

[Locksley]

The backscene has arrived! Certainly makes a massive difference in photos.

 

 

 

 

I also ordered a pair of Austins, a 7 Van just to have knocking around the place, as well as a K8. Not particularly impressed with the 7, the upper plastic parts are a bit crap, as are the clear plastic wheels with spokes printed on, and the paint has been applied so thick it's started to obscure the details. Oh and there's a nice big glue smudge on the bonnet. The K8 is a belter though.

 

 

 

[sb67]

Hi Alex, I was wondering what are you using to get your photo's, any specific lighting or camera? I'm struggling to get good pics of my layout and progress.

[Locksley]

9 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Hi Alex, I was wondering what are you using to get your photo's, any specific lighting or camera? I'm struggling to get good pics of my layout and progress.

 

Nothing special for these, just my camera phone (Google Pixel 3XL) and my living room lighting. I do have a photo tent and some LED spotlamps for 'proper' photography but only tend to use that for my plastic models. I may get the spotlamps out and see how much difference they make though.

 

Oh @SteveyDee68 I also got a pic of my un/coupler doohickey

 

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by Locksley

[Sweet pea]

Great looking back scene Alex, it’s brings your layout to life. Great looking K8, I have the full set of K8s in 1/76 scale I love them.

Edited May 7, 2020 by Kevin Johnson

[SteveyDee68]

9 hours ago, Locksley said:

I use Roger Smith ones (or just Smith as I think they're now known) available from various places but here as an example: https://www.petersspares.com/smiths-smiths-couplings-oo.irc   The hooks are slightly larger/more exaggerated than they would be on the real thing but it makes them much easier to hook up. They come in a few flavours, including kit form or ready assembled. I always go for kit form as they're easy peasy to put together with either a small pair of pliers or even tweezers.

 

Thanks for the info, Alex.  I've had a look at the link you suggested, and am stuck! There are so many types! Which ones are for locos, which for wagons, which for coaches?  I think I read somewhere that instanters are for coaches, but maybe I remember that wrong?  Hecky thump, this isn't going to be a minefield like tension locks is it?

 

Any advice appreciated - I have a fair few wagons, far too many locos (oops) and quite a few coaches to sort out if I go down this route.  Despite wanting to make my Inglenook "quick and easy" (and there will be mistakes aplenty for that) I am really taken with the appearance of your stock couplings and have to make a decision about which route of "fettling" I am going to go down!

 

Knowledge will definitely be key in this!

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

PS

Neat uncoupling device!  Thanks for showing it.  I just happen to have found the one I bought for my dad at the Telford Gauge O Guild meeting in 2017 - it has a light and a magnetic end on it, but I guess it may be a bit big (or powerful) for OO!

[sb67]

8 hours ago, Locksley said:

 

Nothing special for these, just my camera phone (Google Pixel 3XL) and my living room lighting. I do have a photo tent and some LED spotlamps for 'proper' photography but only tend to use that for my plastic models. I may get the spotlamps out and see how much difference they make though.

 

Oh @SteveyDee68 I also got a pic of my un/coupler doohickey

 

 

 

Thanks Alex, my phone is a slightly dated Galaxy 3 and I guess it's capabilities are not that great. I'd just like to take some good pics without having to get a load of stuff out, I'll keep persevering with it. 

[NHY 581]

12 hours ago, sb67 said:

 

Thanks Alex, my phone is a slightly dated Galaxy 3 and I guess it's capabilities are not that great. I'd just like to take some good pics without having to get a load of stuff out, I'll keep persevering with it. 

 

All my photos are taken on my Samsung Note 3, Steve. 

 

Rob.

[sb67]

1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

 

All my photos are taken on my Samsung Note 3, Steve. 

 

Rob.

 

I'm rubbish with phones, I've found out I've actually got a Galaxy S3 mini or GT18200. I think It's pretty old in phone years. However it takes good pics outside so maybe lighting is the problem. 

[Locksley]

On 07/05/2020 at 23:28, SteveyDee68 said:

 

Thanks for the info, Alex.  I've had a look at the link you suggested, and am stuck! There are so many types! Which ones are for locos, which for wagons, which for coaches?  I think I read somewhere that instanters are for coaches, but maybe I remember that wrong?  Hecky thump, this isn't going to be a minefield like tension locks is it?

 

Any advice appreciated - I have a fair few wagons, far too many locos (oops) and quite a few coaches to sort out if I go down this route.  Despite wanting to make my Inglenook "quick and easy" (and there will be mistakes aplenty for that) I am really taken with the appearance of your stock couplings and have to make a decision about which route of "fettling" I am going to go down!

 

Knowledge will definitely be key in this!

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

PS

Neat uncoupling device!  Thanks for showing it.  I just happen to have found the one I bought for my dad at the Telford Gauge O Guild meeting in 2017 - it has a light and a magnetic end on it, but I guess it may be a bit big (or powerful) for OO!

 

Your best way forward is to try to find photos of whatever stock you're wanting to convert and see what was used. I think within reason any type of coupling could be found on pretty much any type of rolling stock, so you'd struggle to go too far wrong but some were more common than others. For example, I think screw couplings would be more likely found on fully fitted rolling stock and locos than unfitted stock. Instanters were generally used on fitted stock too, but less likely found on locos. Standard 3 links could pretty much be found on anything. But i do have an extremely limited knowledge of these things so do take that with a handful of salt.

[brossard]

Can I just weigh in on couplings.  I'm doing 7mm, after 30 years doing 4mm, so have learned a fair bit about them.

 

Unfitted wagons mostly used 3 link couplings.  I say mostly because there are exceptions so check photos (I have an unfitted ex LMS plate wagon with instanters because that's what the photo shows).  Most locos used screw link but there were some locos with steam brake only that had 3 link.  I know this because I have a J50/3 so fitted.

 

The instanter was a GWR invention and adopted by BR for use on fitted freight stock.  Therefore fitted wagons built by other companies prior to 1948 would have had screw link couplings.  Instanters were cheaper and simpler so BR built fitted stock tended to get them.

 

Stock intended for passenger speeds or attached to passenger trains (milk tanks, meat, fish, banana and other perishables) would have had screw link.  Some of these would also have a steam pipe.

 

Primary rule is to check photos.  Paul Bartletts site is particularly useful:

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons

 

Having said all that I'm sure someone will come along to correct me.

 

Great work Alex, your layout is absolutely brilliant.

 

John

[brian777999]

The quality of your resin prints are superb (as is your painting and weathering techniques). I was thinking of buying a 3D filament printer because I was put off by the cost, smell and toxicity of resin.  But looking at what you have produced, I don't think PLA or ABS filament would could possibly give such excellent results, especially the brickwork. Can you tell me how much resin you use to print some of those buildings ?

[Locksley]

17 hours ago, brian777999 said:

The quality of your resin prints are superb (as is your painting and weathering techniques). I was thinking of buying a 3D filament printer because I was put off by the cost, smell and toxicity of resin.  But looking at what you have produced, I don't think PLA or ABS filament would could possibly give such excellent results, especially the brickwork. Can you tell me how much resin you use to print some of those buildings ?

 

Thanks Brian, I think over the entire project I've gone through roughly 1.5l resin, which works out at about £60 at current Amazon prices, including a few failures.

[Locksley]

Well, I think I'm ready to call Frost's Mill pretty much complete. I added a few bits of seafoam foliage which completely transforms the look of the layout into something a bit more rundown and dilapidated. I also weathered up the vehicles and even added LEDs to the Sentinel which was every bit as much of a pain in the proverbial as you can imagine...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[NHY 581]

That is just spot on, Alex. 

 

Lovely to look at. 

 

 

Rob.  

[maq1988]

3 hours ago, Locksley said:

I think over the entire project I've gone through roughly 1.5l resin, which works out at about £60

 

Wow, I'd have thought it would be a lot higher than that.

 

Have you designed all the 3D printed items yourself?

[monkeysarefun]

Really excellent work. I skipped past considering tinkecad for architectural modelling because I assumed it was a bit simplistic but you've managed wonders here. 

[brian777999]

3 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

Really excellent work. I skipped past considering tinkecad for architectural modelling because I assumed it was a bit simplistic but you've managed wonders here. 

 

Yes, I did not think Tinkercad was capable of this either. I have joined and taken the introductory lessons but I am no closer to producing work such as the above !

[sb67]

Great set of photo's Alex. You've definitely achieved the run down look and it suits those industrial locos superbly. Well done