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Knightacott - 7mm newbie BLT


jamest
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9 minutes ago, bgman said:

 

Nothing wrong with that, they can be extremely effective even in 7mm scale.

 

Quite right I think.  It started with a couple of experiments and I liked the results.  The Scalescenes and Lcut ranges are large and I think it is important to have consistency in buildings on a layout.

 

John

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4 minutes ago, brossard said:

consistency in buildings on a layout.

 

(Apologies to James for using your thread on this topic but may be of general interest when building your layout.)

 

I would agree with you John especially if the same mediums are also used rather than chop n'change between various paints i.e. Acrylics to Oil based ( Humbrol etc.).

 

Using a basic palette of muted colours from one source can bring the whole scene into a homogeneous one.

 

G

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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi all, 

 

OK, I've been busy with the paints and I've tried a couple of methods. 

 

First was to paint all over with enamel humbrol 70 and let dry throughly. Then paint with a cream acrylic humbrol 103 and wipe off with tissue....

 

30-11-21_1.jpg.16faa692c0b77b42e54675397a13b480.jpg

 

30-11-21_2.jpg.772fb0404af9aa684dde1233a94debd0.jpg

 

30-11-21_3.jpg.4888304adb77b2c30f8192ef2c4ba08a.jpg

 

 

This looks good but I was not keen on the prominence of the lighter mortar colour. 

 

I also tried some acrylic paint mixed as I paint... Burnt sienna, black and burnt umber.

Painted over my previous efforts…..

 

 

30-11-21_4.jpg.a498f34a0dc7140cb99c54ffba08a5fd.jpg

 

30-11-21_5.jpg.eb5f0b34ae5148484993e706ce5e2ef2.jpg

 

It was then sealed with matt car lacquer.... 

 

 

30-11-21_6.jpg.a640076767f19bb7ebf8358e014cdd07.jpg

 

 

Then I used the same 103 cream on the mortar but wiped with my finger.. 

 

 

30-11-21_7.jpg.f772f4cdcd800f199587e1c36e6eb95b.jpg

 

30-11-21_8.jpg.3810045284f1c46122ea3a631658179d.jpg

 

 

Difficult to see here but the different shades of brick shows through and is deeper as it comes off the faces better with the lacquer applied before mortar. 

I still felt it looked too light and dominated by the lighter mortar so I nervously applied some grey wash in an area probably covered by terrain and liked it better. You can see the difference below after I expanded it a bit when I was happy.... 

 

30-11-21_9.jpg.1e989dda70ba332cd021cc30d688e8f8.jpg

 

 

I plan to do the rest with a grey wash later... 

 

Regards, 

James 

 

 

Edited by jamest
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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi all, 

 

Happy new year. 

 

I've been making steady progress over Dec with the bridge, signal box and station building. 

 

I've also bought an exact editions sub to railway modeller. They had a series on a small light railway in O gauge and I was interested to read about how he had sprayed the track with a rattle can from halfords.... Camouflage brown. It is a good match for my normal sleeper grime and I hate spraying the track with an airbrush. 

 

So I bought one yesterday and tried it today. Its matt, covers well and dries quickly, even at this time of year. The colour looks good as a base too. 

 

I wanted to spray the basic colour while I had good access and before I added the platform and back scene. 

 

I've asked about signal box and starter signal positioning on the signalling bit of the forum. I think I'm going to have to apply rule 1 to have the box and signal the scenic side of the bridge. I'm also going to control the three points from the box... No ground frame. It seems reasonable as the box will have good visabilty of said points. I have some point rodding, stools and cranks from wizard models. 

 

Anyhew here are some pics... 

IMG_20220109_165025.jpg.95599dba345da8339a3c3baa7a61269c.jpg

 

IMG_20220109_165032.jpg.42a6b193990909dac9a387d459a4eceb.jpg

 

IMG_20220109_165039.jpg.271b98a86198a3c5de7342d837b4a23d.jpg

 

IMG_20220109_165101.jpg.6f4f1666e155bcba9b60c7a0dbe34688.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm still musing over positioning the signal box here... It will depend on what I do with the bay platform... And how long I want the platform to be. 

 

IMG_20220109_165136.jpg.2ccf5811d3094fa1c92acbac6363cee7.jpg

 

 

 

Regards 

James 

 

 

 

Edited by jamest
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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, 47606odin said:

Regarding pointing brickwork, the best way I have found is use fine polyfilla, rubbed in the joints with a finger, and once nearly dry, wipe over with a damp cloth to remove excess, and then weather to suit

 

Hi,

 

I have seen, and heard, about that method. I have plenty of off cuts I can practice on but I am reasonably happy with the bridge now. I needed to tone down the mortar a bit and I think I have achieved that. Its also had the added bonus of adding darker areas on the brick faces and generally made it all look a little more aged.

 

I think the 'wideness' or 'boldness' of the motor is also a result of the choice of embossed sheet type too..... another thing I plan to experiment with - but possibly not on the same layout.

 

All that said I would never rule out a method until I have tried it - do you use ready mixed stuff?

 

Regards,

James

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all, 

 

Not much in photo terms but started paining the rail sides today. I'm using tamiya Hull red. It will be toned down with dark washes and dusting later. 

 

I'll also dry brush the sleepers a bit before ballasting. Although in my experience the dustiness of some ballast will lighten things a little. 

 

IMG_20220114_174405.jpg.72dd3ea7a92a131398a572437ec7bd9e.jpg

 

IMG_20220114_174358.jpg.f812ca7dbcc5691955a061a48bac01bd.jpg

 

 

 

 

Regards, 

James

 

 

Edited by jamest
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  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Been a while but I’ve made good progress over the last few months.

 

I have been deliberating the signal box position and the buildings against the back scene in the bay siding.

 

I have made a start on the platforms. I am using 25mm wide strip for the height and plan to top it with 3mm board. That will give me a scale just over 3 feet from rail top to platform surface.

 

I have also decided on a platform signal box as it seems more appropriate and allows the platform to be longer.

 

37611748-6B38-4AEF-95A2-69A9135CF85F.jpeg.8dc4923e6b5c3f8b7a462d3ebf0e2da5.jpeg


Station building is almost done…posed in position.

D71806AC-EC9E-4A0E-9EDE-530596F14CC1.jpeg.1d40554f11228f855a836ecc529154de.jpeg

 

A bit of board to show the platform surface….this is thicker than the stuff I will use at 5mm.

64E83C40-6D3A-4316-B01E-D9A5D4E2223D.jpeg.b5a9e9973ca7772934e63849b88d19c4.jpeg

 

FC0C5F7A-F90E-417F-B0CE-13FD39F90D88.jpeg.608e9aa55ec7e05c64c310ff0cfa6319.jpeg


I will face the wood strip with SE fine cast brick sheet.

EB0FC005-F055-494C-9BA7-C21372571C71.jpeg.8bca86dc5d8fb4434776ebea8f691626.jpeg
 

more updates to follow!
 

Regards,

James

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi,

 

Second update.

 

I’ve added the back scene and moved the layout to the other side of my shed. This will allow me to eek out some more width (about 30mm) on the layout to help with the buildings against the back scene. I’ve added ply sandwich pads to step off the baseboard. The ends are 9mm thick ply and the backs 3mm:


4469CFE0-1D53-464B-9864-42C6F67C5765.jpeg.3e0ce83729eb2b94c30203b94faaace6.jpeg

 

02F590CA-F1C9-46FB-B98F-44516014D289.jpeg.4e407a14c35c97bbeda57aac609591ed.jpeg

 

841E4A9E-26E6-4A8A-B9F3-C8AF67019D97.jpeg.cfbf2b3d828e394ce287835475fc2db8.jpeg

 

7463B12E-146D-4516-84BB-A067720A33BF.jpeg.c654492383e643a02e134a6808682689.jpeg
 

I’ve also painted the platform face in my basic brick colour (black, burnt sienna, burnt umber) sprayed with lacquer to seal and then glued them to the wood strip.

 

3DFBBD1B-951A-4BEE-80E0-B884C6BAB731.jpeg.b564a1c697a56085be2f28a778a8f512.jpeg

 

Then painted the mortar course cream, humbrol acrylic 103, and wiped off immediately.

 

97D80CB5-B0B5-4D11-9F40-753FDE87E9D0.jpeg.642eb5ba6cdcf56c9db9e6b854761216.jpeg

 

regards

James


 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi again,

 

last update for now.

 

I went for a self adhesive premium backscene from ID backscenes and I am very impressed.Good quality and easy to fit. Unfortunately I need two items (two 5 feet rolls in each) but the remainder will keep for the next project.


l have also cut the platform surface for both boards and painted the signal box interior, except for the levers. The platform surface is not fixed as I think it will easier to surface and paint off layout.

 

27925C0F-5381-40F6-8C40-687251FAF8E2.jpeg.8ecb6173fc1913b8dcc933daabf34d33.jpeg
 

6C8D3B3B-C4F8-4DA0-ADB6-B45B4204C364.jpeg.d51aa38f761c17c5b2ec1dce61f30010.jpeg

 

ACA22F73-C33B-4142-A6CA-EB8B920632F5.jpeg.13c30accb2dcc91b4417d90e14253ef9.jpeg

 

6BC0244D-6ABF-4F69-B3D0-1D5131B08587.jpeg.fbf25b29c63c2767b0f74f4d439592ec.jpeg

 

6E0C4FA2-8A40-4B2E-A651-7BDC731B70BB.jpeg.97a09bced823e7e15751e42770c9527e.jpeg

 

04EEF261-776E-4FA0-BA5A-DC0C2496D614.jpeg.325bc6d09f1343087b31772483fe640e.jpeg

 

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  • RMweb Gold

This is coming along brilliantly.

 

But a question for you.

 

What is the purpose of the two electric token machines in the signal box as I'm assuming your railway represents a single line terminus?

Edited by Happy Hippo
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  • RMweb Gold
48 minutes ago, Happy Hippo said:

This is coming along brilliantly.

 

But a question for you.

 

What is the purpose of the two electric token machines in the signal box as I'm assuming your railway represents a single line terminus?


Hi,

 

That is a product of two things….

1) Total ignorance on my part

2) Blindly following instructions!

 

Thanks for the advice, I’ll investigate and adjust accordingly.

 

You don’t see a lot with the roof on but I do plan to install lighting to help and those two will be very visible!

 

Regards,

James

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  • RMweb Gold

One other update I forgot….

 

when I applied the backscene I think I should have had it slightly higher. Instead of aligning at the top I should have raised it an inch to raise the horizon and not waste backscene under the platform.

 

One consequence of this was the bridge scenic break looked a little high. I already thought I was too generous with the arch clearance so I decided to chop off 15mm, which happened to be the base plinth height. I cut it carefully then removed the plinth from the foam board and re attached it. We now have a structure that sits better with the scenery and potential buildings.

 

Previous height….I don’t have a picture against the backscene…

38B14CC0-5D69-48B3-9E9C-FBE9A06CFC3F.jpeg.e5c754c0a87b497bc4debc348f66c760.jpeg

 

Here it is cut down. You can see some of the cut foam board in front of it as a guide to what I removed….

A7F1090B-3520-48BD-B6A0-A70B2E8BA273.jpeg.39e5bff0a5cc83bbefa03b8b9fe88a79.jpeg

 

A6677F05-0469-4F97-998E-6C949E56B802.jpeg.3756628042f5eefe279f960df0e3b6ab.jpeg

 

It meets the backscene better….a lot of blending to do here and along the siding. I have mused a lot about this as it will be the most visually jarring aspect of the layout if I get it wrong. I’m playing with ideas and boxes atm.

A4D30A06-49D0-4B72-85B0-F91CABDAE6A4.jpeg.250f89e18fce2fbc510fb930393991e6.jpeg
 

Regards,

 James 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

A little bit of progress that does not reflect the amount of head scratching involved in its conception!

 

The rear siding, and how it sits with the back-scene, is key to the success of the layout so I have been mulling it over a bit. I think a simple overgrown platform would have been more appropriate in some ways but the rear of said platform, and access to it, would have been difficult to portray.

 

That, coupled with a keenness to make something, has resulted in a goods shed similar to something I saw in a book. It will sit behind the siding and have walls and offices either side to further hide the proximity of the back-scene. It will be artificially thin but it will hopefully not be too obvious.

 

Here is my basic structure out of foam board. It will have a sliding door and a shelter extending over the track along the width of the opening.

 

60388F72-DAF1-41A7-8F85-191C951302C0.jpeg.ef803332d552077eb99a777399862a77.jpeg

 

2D7548C8-7205-461D-9D61-7D9377C12FF3.jpeg.c96761c9272242c29958d93a209d6286.jpeg

 

1A340E70-5A88-4B2C-BC37-71A56257506E.jpeg.407c10c5931905262434d9e570016c04.jpeg

 

Regards,

 James 

 

 

Edited by jamest
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi,

 

Spent the weekend applying brick paper and adding a window. I’ve also added the basic foundation for the door runners and started the sliding door. The door is a 0.080” thick piece of scribed plasticard.

 

I’ve also painted the rough brick colour and sealed it with lacquer ready for the Mortor course. 
 

835D953D-C20C-4609-9E56-87B361E87C46.jpeg.611fd645ba665cfd079d60c901d04369.jpeg

 

A92C2DA1-6DDD-442B-878A-D969C1E9AA9F.jpeg.ecb00927f5fbee0ca9e796f143f33641.jpeg

 

EFD2D1B3-79AE-4203-8F5E-135B014CC9A6.jpeg.59292a0bdb02b2bcdec9f488ecc2c769.jpeg

 

24988DCD-A0C1-47AB-9369-B7E106F91336.jpeg.c0a296e433c60af0b63d0f3ca7f6b7b8.jpeg

 

AE0A292F-DA2B-4CA4-B8EA-C0F5F5CAFA78.jpeg.782e77c5aab5e7e076a872955dbb902b.jpeg

 

C3FFC238-0C32-4EC4-A596-CA9ADB0DFA75.jpeg.bf4c531f8bf427eeeb5437ab31739606.jpeg

 

Regards,

 James 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 15/05/2022 at 22:00, jamest said:

Hi,

 

Spent the weekend applying brick paper and adding a window. I’ve also added the basic foundation for the door runners and started the sliding door. The door is a 0.080” thick piece of scribed plasticard.

 

I’ve also painted the rough brick colour and sealed it with lacquer ready for the Mortor course. 
 

835D953D-C20C-4609-9E56-87B361E87C46.jpeg.611fd645ba665cfd079d60c901d04369.jpeg

 

A92C2DA1-6DDD-442B-878A-D969C1E9AA9F.jpeg.ecb00927f5fbee0ca9e796f143f33641.jpeg

 

EFD2D1B3-79AE-4203-8F5E-135B014CC9A6.jpeg.59292a0bdb02b2bcdec9f488ecc2c769.jpeg

 

24988DCD-A0C1-47AB-9369-B7E106F91336.jpeg.c0a296e433c60af0b63d0f3ca7f6b7b8.jpeg

 

AE0A292F-DA2B-4CA4-B8EA-C0F5F5CAFA78.jpeg.782e77c5aab5e7e076a872955dbb902b.jpeg

 

C3FFC238-0C32-4EC4-A596-CA9ADB0DFA75.jpeg.bf4c531f8bf427eeeb5437ab31739606.jpeg

 

Regards,

 James 

Hi James - I might have missed it - but what brick paper are you using? Also did you mount the ID backscenes onto card first or just straight to the layout??  The layout is progressing really well!

Edited by Georgeham
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  • RMweb Gold
13 hours ago, Georgeham said:

Hi James - I might have missed it - but what brick paper are you using? Also did you mount the ID backscenes onto card first or just straight to the layout??  The layout is progressing really well!

 

Hi,

 

Thanks.

 

Right - typo there! - I'm so used to OO gauge and scalescenes! I actually use embossed/vac formed brick sheets from South East Finecast - then paint with acrylics - sorry for any confusion caused.

 

On the backscene - I did apply straight to bare plywood. I was a bit nervous about this and only did one board first and then left it for a few days to see how it took. It has now been a few months and all seems well. Speaking as someone who has tried several methods for gluing non-adhesive other brand backscenes in the past.....these are brilliant. Slightly thicker and stronger - and very easy to apply - even to board already fitted to the layout.

 

Cheers,

James

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Bit of progress on the goods shed - I did not like the effect of the brick colour after doing the mortar colour. So I re-did it a bit darker with less obvious colour changes.

 

I've also started on the roof slates. I did buy some slaters tiles on strips but there seemed too much definition of the 'rows' and not enough of the vertical lines between slates. So I got some thick paper left over from my daughters school project (years ago) and proceeded to mark out squares and cut out strips. I did 6mm squares and cut them in strips of two wide. I then cut into the gap between slates on one of the rows and left the top one as a strip to go 'underneath'. So you see one row of every sheet with cut through edges. It worked really well and I'm really pleased with the initial painting.

 

Here are some pics - you can see the finished wall effect.

 

IMG_20220521_201618.jpg.4437f0267c17fa976c5dd5878045c09a.jpg

 

IMG_20220521_201555.jpg.0e3352169ad514ae0f40be9633121082.jpg

 

IMG_20220521_201612.jpg.6a2282e7f1c1a7396ca7cbacb44bdc2e.jpg

 

IMG_20220521_201601.jpg.00743b17f89f48c68a196e10ca52efbc.jpg

 

 

Regards,

James 

Edited by jamest
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Quick photo update on the goods shed.

 

I’ve painted the roof and sealed it with lacquer ready for a dark wash and powders.

 

Here are some overall views as we stand. The door is just resting in position for now.

 

IMG_20220526_193335.jpg.8abc79c073f57b1a28917825b8341a62.jpg

 

IMG_20220526_193313.jpg.25250075c793331e128b5f0e37cb673c.jpg

 

IMG_20220526_193243.jpg.1ebe14c8dae190e0668ae51a51cb448e.jpg

 

 

regards

James

Edited by jamest
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  • RMweb Gold
12 hours ago, alant said:

Hi James,

Some good progress. Can you advise where the window on the goods shed was from please?

Thanks.

 

Hi Alan, 

 

Thanks. 

 

The windows are from Lcut creative. I bought a few styles and some doors. They come alongside a frame which you can use as a cutting template. They are very good and not too expensive. 

 

IMG_20220527_204733.jpg.36c591ae265777f8a9d0790aa6ed9eff.jpg

 

IMG_20220527_203501.jpg.32f9e2ae1ebe466caa8787ff8039efa3.jpg

 

Regards, 

James 

 

Edited by jamest
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all, 

 

Been on holiday this week so I've made some progress on the goods shed office.

 

This area of the layout is taking shape and I'm pleased about how well it blends with the back scene. 

 

I've lengthened the siding a little to allow two vans to go past the goods shed door. I have mocked up the office from card (2mm laminated to 4mm thick). 

 

You can just see the rail joiner and pencil arrow on the platform here showing the length of the siding extension. 

IMG_20220531_133711.thumb.jpg.ee596d9b9eb76011eb1c483e2457481a.jpg

 

IMG_20220531_133717.thumb.jpg.596d672709f2602a20f18741cd5a00d8.jpg

 

IMG_20220531_145116.thumb.jpg.4d32119d6f8ea230795763f643a3b455.jpg

 

There will be a wall extending along the platform with greenery behind. It will then dogleg again behind the station building. 

IMG_20220531_145146.thumb.jpg.1f130766ca0efa1165fded104052cf94.jpg

 

The steps down to the back scene will have a gate to help block the proximity of the back scene. 

IMG_20220601_111833.thumb.jpg.4c3a9e1b8c14039cd744839baf386137.jpg

 

IMG_20220601_111925.thumb.jpg.283633c6fe00aacbdeb7e84df835a061.jpg

 

With the brick sheet added.... 

IMG_20220602_131833.thumb.jpg.50da4381dc09c2aafed0cdcd887a33a2.jpg

 

And basic brick colour starting... 

IMG_20220602_131841.thumb.jpg.95d5c259c393e14dcb1a4a92b14b262c.jpg

 

Regards 

James 

 

 

Edited by jamest
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