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To stimulate discussion, post photos and exchange ideas, and (being an open public forum) help encourage others to try S scale modelling.

Drakelow: S scale


ianb3174
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I've now entered the realm of 1:64 with membership of the society, planned a test cameo and sent an order off to the stores. 

This will be my thread to log my efforts. As most of you are further down the S line than me I won't bore you with too much detail. Basically the cameo is of a simple crossover at the end of a small station. Nothing too ambitious for now. It's built on a former IKEA shelf and the track will be laid on 5mm foamboard. 

I'll be using society rail, chairs and sleepers for the track. There will be scenic breaks at each end, though the one over the platform might be a footbridge. 

As with most of my plans/ideas the use of straight sections of track has been minimised. 

The first stage will be to get some track down and hack a test wagon together. 

Don't expect exhibition quality straight from the get go, I'm still only learning. 

 

 

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I could do with taking a leaf out of your book, I've been modelling in S Scale for a number of years now and still not laid any track. I'll look forward to watching this progress, thank you for posting.

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I wasn't aware of that layout until just. Any similarity is purely unintentional.

Initially I was trying to invoke a little bit of LLanymynech S&M in a later WD time.

 

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That is a very nice and simple design. Would you be considering using a sector plate type fiddle on the left-hand side to allow run-around of stock? Could make a very good & compact layout that way. I often regret not continuing with S back in the day. Such is life.

 

Izzy

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I haven't given much thought to operation as yet. I tend to over complicate my plans with all sorts of loops and crossovers to aid shunting, then realise I've run out of space. Due to constraints I have little permanent space to host a layout. I can only design compact designs that could be stored vertically. One day I'll be able to spread out, I have the ideas ready. 

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My first section of track is down, all 7" of it. Might have a go at making a test chassis tomorrow if I get time. In other scales I've usually knocked something together with the wheelbase of a CCT or similar, the rationale being that if a long wheelbase wagon can negotiate it then it's likely ok for everything else. Similarly I've also been wrong before. 

 

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Blimey Ian that's quick (and good) work - I only sent the parts on Friday!

 

It looks a great project and shows what can be done in a small space. And there will be plenty of help here from S scalers and other modellers if you need it. All power to your arm, Paul.

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Today's efforts. Knocked together a CCT sized test chassis. 40 thou plastic sheet for floor, headstocks and solebars. Most likely not prototypically accurate but only took 15 mins to make. Scaled from the basic drawing I used the solebars came out at 12" deep. Yes, they are too far apart, I think they should be just wider than the buffer spacing (no info on the drawing).

 Usual techniques as outlined by others on this page. Scribed centrelines and W iron positions first (I haven't always worked that methodically) and quick blast with the solvent using Mk1 eyeball. 

20ft wheelbase, Society W irons and wheels and salvaged 4mm bearings (must get some more). I might have a practice making a body for it when I have more time.

I'm liking the overall size of S. Bigger, but small enough to be large but not huge

One question; I have never soldered up my W irons in any scale, is it something that is recommended? 

Also the trackgang are being spoken to about the step in the rail at the joint. A fishplate will sort it

 

 

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2 hours ago, ianb3174 said:

One question; I have never soldered up my W irons in any scale, is it something that is recommended?

 

Ian,

 

You will probably be OK.  The society etches are 15thou nickel silver so there's about 8 thou thickness at the etch fold lines,  which will be pretty strong provided you don't bend them too many times. :-)   I always solder my fold lines because that's the way I've always done it. :-)

 

Jim.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress has been slow due to inundation of work post lockdown. I have managed to lay some turnout timbers and have a play with version 15b of my TOU idea. Basically it's 3mm square rod inside 5mm square tube (forgive the metric), two slots in the top surface and brass wire inserted vertically which will be trimmed and form the basis of the cosmetic tiebar. That's the plan. Obviously they'll be trimmed for height and alignment once the rails are in place. The reason I've used thicker wire at this stage is because a previous version (in EM) suffered because the wire was too flimsy and didn't hold the switchblades tightly enough without bending out of shape. It's also installed at this point in the proceedings as it's nigh on impossible to add it to a turnout built in situ, like I always end up doing. I should know better but I often don't. Tomorrow may have the trackgang down for some more work...or they may just drink tea in the hut all day and sign off early. It is a Friday after all.

 

 

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Slightly off topic:

 

The term foam board  is often mentioned at RMweb. What brand are You using? The thread "Remove paper from foam board" introduced several brand names: Westfoam, Peterboro and Kapa. It appears that different brands use different types of glue for laminating the paper/card on foam core. if foam board is used as track foundation, how does the paper/cardboard lamination stay on the foam core if the ballast is glued by liberally soaking it with diluted PVA glue, acrylic matte medium or Woodland Scenics' Scenic Cement? Was it necessary to coat the paper/card to make it waterproof?

 

[I'm more of an armchair modeller now, with no experience of today's materials or techniques. If this is not the correct forum, then please move... /PSi]

 

pekka

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The foamboard I use is unbranded and was purchased from an online art supply store. It's nominally 5mm thick and coated both sides with a thin paper which has a satin finish. 

I glue my templot printouts to it using glue sticks. I use a shop brand glue stick that is harder that Pritt and covers more evenly. If left with a plan glued to one side the foamboard will slightly warp over time (weeks) but this is not significant (10-15mm over 1m) and can be rectified by gluing down to the baseboard. 

For track that I build which doesn't have an immediate home I glue paper to the reverse side and this cures the warping issue. 

In terms of ballasting I use (have used) diluted PVA. There is no appreciable ingress of the glue into the foam layer as far as I can tell. PVA glue dries on the surface over time and forms a very secure bond. I've built temporary structures for sizing etc and they are very robust

 

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The track gang have a Sunday evening occupation and all they can manage is part of a common crossing. This one is machined to within the nearest couple of inches using the MK1 eyeball method.

Prior to S scale I'd become accustomed to my Code 75 crossing filing jig, so this was back to my old ways, hacking chairs in half and a bit of bodge, then bury it in weeds and ballast before the rivets can be counted. It 'is' in line with the template, the angle makes the nose look a mile out. 

Thoughts and feedback welcomed

 

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  • ianb3174 changed the title to Drakelow: S scale

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