KR Models announce the Consett Iron Ore Wagon

[johndon]

On 08/05/2022 at 10:37, ColinK said:

What we need is a article or video on weathering them.

whilst this is a kit built wagon rather than one from KR, this was done with brown and black pastels:

 

 

using this photo from Howie Milburn as inspiration:

 

 

John

 

Edited May 9, 2022 by johndon

[Bishdurham]

5 hours ago, johndon said:

whilst this is a kit built wagon rather than one from KR, this was done with brown and black pastels:

 

 

using this photo from Howie Milburn as inspiration:

 

 

John

 

A video on how you do it would be much appreciated!  Looks like they didn't stay clean for long!

[johndon]

23 minutes ago, Bishdurham said:

A video on how you do it would be much appreciated!  Looks like they didn't stay clean for long!

 

I'll see what I can do.  As you can see from the photo of the real thing, they got so filthy the markings were often almost completely obscured.

Edited May 9, 2022 by johndon

[ColinK]

Many thanks, that’s quite a distinctive pattern presumably caused by the door hinges.

[Hastings Thumper]

I did some experimenting with various close couplers yesterday. Firstly, the Roco and Hornby similar versions don't reach far enough to enable the wagons to be coupled up.  I moved onto the Hunt couplers. The 'short' version at 9mm long works fine, but I think the ultra-close version at 7 mm will work too - I'll order some for further testing.

 

A note of caution though. I was careful to try and hold the NEM pockets in pliers while pushing the various couplings in from the front. In several cases though I ended up with distinctly droopy couplings as per the photo. I couldn't work out what was wrong from underneath the wagons, so ended up taking the body off.

 

The problem was that the cover over the cam mechanism had popped off allowing the mechanism to float around. There are two very small locating pins that locate the cam covers and it looked like the glue had failed.  Easily fixed with with a couple of spots of strong glue (I use Powerbond 806). Just be careful not to get any glue into the cam mechanism or onto the moving part (the part shaped like a stealth bomber).

 

An easy fix in the end.  The tricky bit is getting the body off the chassis.  There are four clip arrangements per side each of which look like three locating lugs on the side of the wagon.  They have to be eased out while pulling the chassis down gently.  I found it best to release one end entirely and then the rest unclips fairly easily.  It all re-assembles with a re-assuring click.

 

So 2 wagons done - 7 to go.

 

Hope this helps someone out there.

Sam

 

 

[johndon]

On 09/05/2022 at 14:16, Bishdurham said:

A video on how you do it would be much appreciated!  Looks like they didn't stay clean for long!

 

I've just started converting my wagons to P4 and will be detailing and weathering them so I'm hoping to put a video together for all of that.  One thing to bear in mind with these wagons is the IRON ORE and British Railways branding on the doors.  KR have the branding spot on for the wagons when they were brand new but it  didn't last on the wagons.  The British Railways lozenge was first to go and the IRON ORE went later.  I have a number of photos of the wagons on my website below and you'll note that the branding is gone in all of the photos taken in the 60s and 70s.

 

https://southpelawjunction.co.uk/wp/?page_id=631

 

Edited May 31, 2022 by johndon

[johndon]

Made a start tonight, with a simple re-wheel to P4, removal of the tension locks and a start on 'debranding' the wagons with TCut.  The gloss will disappear under a coat of matt varnish and then it'll be on to a coat of paint on the bogies and underframe as the black is only really appropriate for wagons fresh out Shildon when new.

 

[Suzy Sulzer]

has anyone had the bogie retaining screw fall out ? if so any idea what the thread is .unfortunately the screw is made with an washer non removable from screw . the washer diameter is too large to go into the counter bore in the bogie .This prevents the screw going in far enough.

[cctransuk]

4 minutes ago, Suzy Sulzer said:

has anyone had the bogie retaining screw fall out ? if so any idea what the thread is .unfortunately the screw is made with an washer non removable from screw . the washer diameter is too large to go into the counter bore in the bogie .This prevents the screw going in far enough.

 

Simples - put a bit of varnish on the thread before repacing the screw; when dry, the screw will not work loose but is still removeable.

 

John Isherwood.

[Suzy Sulzer]

It's a steel screw going into a diecast chassis, that is two separate metals, therefore, you need to use locktite 640 and suitable activator.  The main problem is the diameter of the washer attached to the screw is too large and it will not go into the counterbore in the bogie moulding.  Therefore, the screw is only holding on three threads.  If you tighten the screw up it restricts the movement and swing of the bogie, I don't think, with my engineering experience, varnish is not a suitable solution, therefore, I require to know if anybody has any idea what the thread is - is it BA or metric?  I will purchase suitable screws and washers to solve the situation

 

Many thanks for your suggestion.

 

Suzy

[johndon]

Some of mine have come out.

 

I used a very small amount of white glue in the hole before putting the screw back in.  As with John's suggestion, it's enough to hold the screw securely but not enough that you can't unscrew if necessary.

Edited August 4, 2022 by johndon

[Mallard60022]

Blimey, that was a challenging read from start to this page. Super Handbags at times.

My experience of these was simply seeing them at Consett Station in 1960/1/2 on short visits whilst staying at Grandparents. IIRC the empties returned to Tyne Dock via Blackhill.

Thus the loaded empties situation could be that one just models the Tyne Dock to Consett section of the Trip? 

Of course my memory could be shot but I don't remember seeing Empties returning through Consett Station.

I do hope those that have bought these can live with them an enjoy the fettling and weathering.

Phil

[johndon]

45 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

Blimey, that was a challenging read from start to this page. Super Handbags at times.

My experience of these was simply seeing them at Consett Station in 1960/1/2 on short visits whilst staying at Grandparents. IIRC the empties returned to Tyne Dock via Blackhill.

Thus the loaded empties situation could be that one just models the Tyne Dock to Consett section of the Trip? 

Of course my memory could be shot but I don't remember seeing Empties returning through Consett Station.

I do hope those that have bought these can live with them an enjoy the fettling and weathering.

Phil

 

The empties returned along the same route that they arrived on via Consett, Beamish, South Pelaw etc.  To the best of my knowledge, the wagons never passed through Blackhill.  On the odd occasion when they couldn't go via the normal route such as December 1964 when an accident closed the line at Beamish, they went via Lanchester.

Edited August 4, 2022 by johndon

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Suzy Sulzer said:

It's a steel screw going into a diecast chassis, that is two separate metals, therefore, you need to use locktite 640 and suitable activator.  The main problem is the diameter of the washer attached to the screw is too large and it will not go into the counterbore in the bogie moulding.  Therefore, the screw is only holding on three threads.  If you tighten the screw up it restricts the movement and swing of the bogie, I don't think, with my engineering experience, varnish is not a suitable solution, therefore, I require to know if anybody has any idea what the thread is - is it BA or metric?  I will purchase suitable screws and washers to solve the situation

 

Many thanks for your suggestion.

 

Suzy

 

It all depends if you want : -

 

i) a solution that works;

 

ii) to go overboard and lock the screw so that it will be difficult to remove in future;

 

iii) to have a go at KRM for a minor design / production issue.

 

In each case : -

 

i) use varnish or wood glue;

 

ii) stick your engineering principles and use Loctite;

 

iii) post here and reject all practical solutions.

 

Now - which are you doing; let me guess .....

 

CJI.

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Suzy Sulzer said:

It's a steel screw going into a diecast chassis, that is two separate metals, therefore, you need to use locktite 640 and suitable activator.  The main problem is the diameter of the washer attached to the screw is too large and it will not go into the counterbore in the bogie moulding.  Therefore, the screw is only holding on three threads.  If you tighten the screw up it restricts the movement and swing of the bogie, I don't think, with my engineering experience, varnish is not a suitable solution, therefore, I require to know if anybody has any idea what the thread is - is it BA or metric?  I will purchase suitable screws and washers to solve the situation

 

Many thanks for your suggestion.

 

Suzy

 

Surely, with your engineering experience, identifying a screw thread is the work of moments!!

 

CJI.

Edited August 4, 2022 by cctransuk

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Suzy Sulzer said:

It's a steel screw going into a diecast chassis, that is two separate metals, therefore, you need to use locktite 640 and suitable activator.  The main problem is the diameter of the washer attached to the screw is too large and it will not go into the counterbore in the bogie moulding.  Therefore, the screw is only holding on three threads.  If you tighten the screw up it restricts the movement and swing of the bogie, I don't think, with my engineering experience, varnish is not a suitable solution, therefore, I require to know if anybody has any idea what the thread is - is it BA or metric?  I will purchase suitable screws and washers to solve the situation

 

Many thanks for your suggestion.

 

Suzy

 

Ah-ha !!!

 

Technical solution - open up the counterbore with a suitably sized drill.

 

CJI.

[Suzy Sulzer]

3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Ah-ha !!!

 

Technical solution - open up the counterbore with a suitably sized drill.

 

CJI.

Flat bottom drill / slot drill required ,potentially will make the wall of counter bore weak .That's why i prefer to go for new screws. The treaded hole in the casting is what is known as a blind hole. Not a trough hole. so the screw hits the bottom of hole  

[Suzy Sulzer]

6 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Simples - put a bit of varnish on the thread before repacing the screw; when dry, the screw will not work loose but is still removeable.

 

John Isherwood.

 

3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Surely, with your engineering experience, identifying a screw thread is the work of moments!!

 

CJI.

I don't have any thread gauges. I get the feeling nobody knows the thread size ? Thanks for your advice .

[PaulCheffus]

7 hours ago, Suzy Sulzer said:

 

I don't have any thread gauges. I get the feeling nobody knows the thread size ? Thanks for your advice .

Hi

 

Try a few known nut sizes on the screw you have, one of them should fit unless they have used an obscure thread.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Mallard60022]

12 hours ago, johndon said:

 

The empties returned along the same route that they arrived on via Consett, Beamish, South Pelaw etc.  To the best of my knowledge, the wagons never passed through Blackhill.  On the odd occasion when they couldn't go via the normal route such as December 1964 when an accident closed the line at Beamish, they went via Lanchester.

Oh OK. Its just I can't remember seeing the returns going east at Consett. probably because I'd seen the Loco earlier. However it was 1962 when I was last there so no surprise I can't remember.

P

[Bucoops]

I feel this is appropriate in this case.

 

 

Problem solved.

[Clagsniffer]

I had two bogies come loose which resulted in quite a spectacular pile up, sending two of the wagons crashing to the floor. Damage wasn’t as bad as I was expecting but a few buffers have snapped off and disappeared completely. Are any aftermarket buffers available anywhere? I’ve dropped KR an email but haven’t heard back yet………..

 

Cheers.

[johndon]

1 hour ago, Clagsniffer said:

Are any aftermarket buffers available anywhere?

 

These from Lanarkshire Models are the closest I know of although, strictly speaking, the are slightly to small...

 

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_097.htm

 

[johndon]

3 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Oh OK. Its just I can't remember seeing the returns going east at Consett. probably because I'd seen the Loco earlier. However it was 1962 when I was last there so no surprise I can't remember.

P

 

Not Consett but here's a shot of empties at Beamish in the 1960s:

 

 

Photo Copyright Ben Brooksbank and licensed for reuse under a Creative Commons Licence.

[Suzy Sulzer]

4 hours ago, Clagsniffer said:

I had two bogies come loose which resulted in quite a spectacular pile up, sending two of the wagons crashing to the floor. Damage wasn’t as bad as I was expecting but a few buffers have snapped off and disappeared completely. Are any aftermarket buffers available anywhere? I’ve dropped KR an email but haven’t heard back yet………..

 

Cheers.

likewise