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Aston On Clun. A forgotten Great Western outpost.


MrWolf
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57 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

How's this for computerised Catch 22?

 

Last Thursday my phone died. I took it to the fix it while you wait phone store.

The battery was lunched and of course no spares are available.

They could sell me a reconditioned one for around £250.

Being a bit broke, I went into the library and logged onto my eBay account and found a major brand phone, reconditioned and guaranteed for a little less than half the price and next day delivery.

 

So I hit buy it now.

 

I generally buy things off eBay on my phone, so when the bank computer saw a different IP address than usual, it asked me to confirm my email address then wanted to send a one time security code-

 

To my phone.

 

The phone I am trying to replace because I can't even switch it on....

 

I went to the bank in person and explained the situation.

 

Is there anything I can do? I asked.

 

No.

 

Rode over to a friend's house, borrowed his old phone, dismantled both, fitted my sim card in the working phone....

 

And clicked buy it now.

 

 

 

 

And so that's why the system will never be completely infallible.

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55 minutes ago, Nick Gough said:

 

Nice cut & shut job!

 

Thanks Nick, it's from an article on GWR modelling.org but I'm struggling to post a link.

 

This is what it should look like:

 

1164544204_C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_SavedImages_mswjr22.jpg.ee564deb6fbca82ccd00f2074a3d26f1.jpg

 

The bogies are Ratio LNWR which are available separately from the coach kit. I 

rather like the idea of running that and a van or two as a complete train.

 

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21 hours ago, John Besley said:

Buchering Airfix loco kits is going to become a thing of the past.... Such joys a making a Brittania out of a Evening Star kit and a Triang Princess .... Or Southern Electric stock out of Kitmaster coaches

In the good old days you could make absolutely anything out of a Tri-ang  Princess!

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Or a Hornby Dublo 0-6-0 chassis?

When I was still at school I had a white metal 94XX pannier built on one. Someone had made a good job of it though with a lot of extra detail. 

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Number 23 gets a tune up.

 

The original motor (top) is well worn and doesn't like slow starts. I have replaced it with the later (post traction tyre era) X8809M motor at the bottom. Not only is it cheap to replace, most importantly, it has six pickups, the extras bearing on the centre wheels. The two redundant pickups will be soldered to the fly leads from the trailing bogie, giving (I hope!) Eight wheel pickup.

 

IMG_20220525_175331.jpg.cdb453ab42871af29a9d864bdadbb238.jpg

 

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I've never worked with 3d printed items before. It cuts and files okay but you cannot use any force at all. 

 

There's been some twitchy moments trimming the footplate to fit the Jinty chassis. But things are progressing.

16535007900607976459209299523431.jpg.4d58dcfde0d962238e57693363cf7737.jpg

 

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The impact resistance between a hard surface and a high velocity steel toe cap Dr.Martins isn’t great either

 

I know this for a fact because I got frustrated with the first couple of prints

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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2 hours ago, MrWolf said:

…….It cuts and files okay but you cannot use any force at all.,,,


I could have printed you another one but because you have modified it your warranty is void 🤣

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If I can go back to the building you did say about the mortar courses  one way is to paint the mortar colour without worring about it going over the bricks  then either use a sanding block or pva  fine sandpaper to a block of wood  then abrade the surface gently. the snadpaer will not reach into the courses the courses are deeper than they would be it also takes any plastic shine of the bricks once done use a small paintbrush to drybrush some variations in colour onto individual bricks.

 

 

Don

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Those tank fillers are Dean pattern from 247 Developments. 

They are the closest I could find to what was fitted with the upright cam lock lever ( I think that's how they worked ) Presently I'm fitting connecting rods (carefully bodged from the originals) and the replacement motor. I should be able to test run the chassis and establish clearance between the crankpin bosses and the footplate.

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On 25/05/2022 at 19:37, Winslow Boy said:

Does it just break rather than bend?

 

It looks like a plastic, behaves like a ceramic. If you ever took one of the bricks out of a gas fire it's rather like that lightweight fireclay.

 

Weird stuff.

 

 

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17 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

It looks like a plastic, behaves like a ceramic. If you ever took one of the bricks out of a gas fire it's rather like that lightweight fireclay.

 

Weird stuff.

 

 


The resin is UV curved, if left in direct sunlight for example further curing makes the material harder but also more brittle. If it’s really brittle I might have over cured it?

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No, I don't think so, I've been able to saw and file it. It's not a criticism, it's just a material I haven't had any experience of so I'm finding what you can and can't do with it. The grey material, whilst it seems lighter weight is easier to sand and drill. (Rather like drilling carbon fibre) The black stuff seems more glass like. 

I have been finding it very interesting to work with. I'm wondering if at some point a 3d printing resin will be developed which has the same properties as the kind of styrene used by the big plastic kit manufacturers such as Tamiya, Airfix, Revell.

That would be a huge leap forward. No mould lines (or the technical issues of undercut in mould production) and no need for expensive moulds to print kits and complete items, but the resilience and workability of styrene.

Next step would be to speed up the printing to the level it is in sci fi movies.

 

 

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I've just realised, that despite making a hilarious joke about the unspoken joy of post and wire fencing over on @chuffinghell's thread, perhaps I am building a loco as a form of avoidance behaviour because I've got about twenty feet of the stuff to make and install on my layout.

 

One job at a time!

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I didn’t think it was a criticism
 

I found the black resin more brittle but also if held up to the light it’s more translucent.
 

Apparently there are different resins available with different mechanical properties.

 

I did try one resin that was at the other end of the scale being far too flexible. I’m also told some people mix different resin to get the best of both but that sounds too much like a recipe for disaster to me

 

Post and wire fencing for me is like buses on bridges to you 😆

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43 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I didn’t think it was a criticism
 

I found the black resin more brittle but also if held up to the light it’s more translucent.
 

Apparently there are different resins available with different mechanical properties.

 

I did try one resin that was at the other end of the scale being far too flexible. I’m also told some people mix different resin to get the best of both but that sounds too much like a recipe for disaster to me

 

Post and wire fencing for me is like buses on bridges to you 😆

I have been mixing resin for more resilience with good results. I use 87% Anycubic and 13% Siraya tech emerald blu. The Blu is more like rubber if used on it's own, but takes the brittleness away from the Anycubic, such that you can flex the W-irons to get wheels into the pinpoint bearings

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57 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

buses on bridges

Some people go to very strange extremes to avoid that cliché:

https://www.itv.com/news/calendar/2022-05-25/four-injured-after-bus-loses-roof-in-bridge-crash

(Thankfully, no serious injuries.)

 

More frivolously, our host is in well-known company - James Bond doesn’t like the trope, either:

spacer.png

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