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YORK for York Show 2023 and beyond


kirmies
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29 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

To be honest this layout is becoming one which will be joining the list of "must see" 2mm ones.  Trouble is, I'm 10 hours in the future on GMT! 

It's not all that big. It should fit in an overhead luggage bin...

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2 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

It's not all that big. It should fit in an overhead luggage bin...

Got to be allowed into Fortress Australia however :devil:

Edited by Sithlord75
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9 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

Got to be allowed into Fortress Australia however :devil:

Yes, I'm a bit concerned about whether I'll be able to get into Fortress SA in September.

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On 02/08/2021 at 08:22, kirmies said:

One of the key things needed for this layout to be convincing is the slow running of the locos. Since virtually all trains will stop in the station, being able to come to a halt and pull away smoothly and seamlessly is very important and for this to happen smooth ultra slow running is needed to get to and from stationary.

.......

 

Then I remembered the small cheap Chinese gearmotor my good mate Andy Ross (Trams & Locos) had given me to try. He uses these to power his cranes. It fits neatly inside the Gresley tender body with just enought room behind it for a micro DCC chip:

 

.....................

The only snag is these gearmotors are too big to fit in any tender smaller than a Gresley 8-wheeler so another solution will need to be found for those!

 

If you dig around this site, and find Giles Flavell's stuff on radio controlled narrow gauge, he's using small motors with an inline planetary gearbox.  Chinese ones.   Which are the same concept as those Tim Watson has used in the past to re-motor the old Poole designed Farish items, except I think some of Tim's were Swiss motor-gearboxes, with Swiss prices.   

 

I think that approach will give you what you need for smaller tender locos, and may work on some tank locos.  

 

 

I'd written off the N20 motor/gearboxes for 2mm use as too big.   I first saw them referenced in the 3mm Society magazine some years back as a way of making motor drives in 3mm scale.   I've used them quite a bit for 4mm trackside stuff - turntables, cranes, etc..   They work well, if your environment doesn't have to worry about the noise. 

 

 

 

Edited by Nigelcliffe
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Nigel,

 

Thanks for that - much the same conclusion I'd come to - pointing me towards Glies's stuff will, I'm sure, help me track down suitable micro gearmotors without, as you say, having to pay Swiss prices.

 

In fact the N20 gearmotors are of more use than I thought and will fit into smaller tenders than the Gresley 8-wheelers:

912126616_IMG_7795cropped.jpg.53c8f741354c2c531097e858a9dd4930.jpg

From left to right:

  • Dapol Great Northern Gresley 8-wheeled tender body
  • Dapol LNER group standard 6-wheeled tender body (from a B1 destined for a K3)
  • Great Northern 3150 gallon 6-wheeled tender (ATSO 3D print for a J6)

As can be seen, there's plenty of room for a DCC chip and a flywheel in the Gresley tender, the LNER group standard will be a somewhat tighter fit but should be okay and there just might not be enough room to make the N20 work in the GN tender even though it will fit in the body shell. In each case the final drive shaft will be trimmed. 

Anything smaller than the GN tender will definitely need something smaller.

Edited by kirmies
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I'm not sure that the flywheel will add anything much to these motor/gearboxes, they are impossible to turn backwards. Do yours finish with a worm drive in the loco? I've only used them with a 1:1 skew or bevel gear and they do scream a bit at high speed (but quiet and smooth at low speed).

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16 hours ago, Trams and Locos said:

Andy,

 

Thanks for the link. It has a maximum 46rpm final drive which, with my 21:1 gearbox in the loco would produce a max. speed of around 2 revs of the driving wheels a minute which is, perhaps, taking slow running a but far!

But.......other gear ratios are available and I've just ordered a couple of ones which give a 6400rpm max output equivalent to a max loco speed of around 40MPH. 

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3 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

I'm not sure that the flywheel will add anything much to these motor/gearboxes, they are impossible to turn backwards. Do yours finish with a worm drive in the loco? I've only used them with a 1:1 skew or bevel gear and they do scream a bit at high speed (but quiet and smooth at low speed).

Mike,

 

Yes, a 21:1 worm drive in the loco so the inline gearbox on the motor is only about 5:1 meaning the ouptut shaft is easily turned by hand. The original idea for the flywheel was just to provide a way of getting from the 3mm diameter shaft coming out of the inline gearbox to one end of the flexible drive to the loco.

But I reckon it does make a difference (the output on the shaft can reach 6000rpm) as it seems to provide enough momentum to be a bit of a 'physical stay-alive'. Whether this is actual flywheel effect or just the extra weight in the tender providing better contact between wheels and track I'm not sure - it's probably a bit of both!

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19 minutes ago, kirmies said:

Mike,

 

Yes, a 21:1 worm drive in the loco so the inline gearbox on the motor is only about 5:1 meaning the ouptut shaft is easily turned by hand. The original idea for the flywheel was just to provide a way of getting from the 3mm diameter shaft coming out of the inline gearbox to one end of the flexible drive to the loco.

But I reckon it does make a difference (the output on the shaft can reach 6000rpm) as it seems to provide enough momentum to be a bit of a 'physical stay-alive'. Whether this is actual flywheel effect or just the extra weight in the tender providing better contact between wheels and track I'm not sure - it's probably a bit of both!

That should be OK then - all the ones I've used have very low ratio boxes, something like 300:1 or so.

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Motor-gearboxes are standard fodder on CF. We started using Portescaps with gear heads 20 years ago in the A4 tenders, whilst the smaller Maxon 8x16 motor and 1:4 gearbox is a straight replacement in the old Poole mechanisms (as mentioned by Nigel). More recently I have played with a 6mm diameter version in a narrow gauge engine and will probably use another in a GNR J13 re-chassis which will have a very big ‘stay alive’ in it: RC & battery power. Flywheels really need to be at the high speed end of the gear train to be effective. 

 

Tim

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

The rake of Barnums is approaching completion - two of the seven seen here:

IMG_7945.JPG.6efab3ccd9ad4186ca54af52e71eb01c.JPG

These are Recreation 21 3D print bodies from Shapeways, 2mm Association Midland bogies adapted to make them a bit more Great Central in appearance and scratchbuilt/custom etched everything else:

IMG_7944.JPG.136b887e8ecc80178bc3abd141fc5096.JPG

They still need door handles, interiors, couplings and corridor connectors plus the brakes need the characteristic grills they had over the windows but I'm quite pleased with how they're turning out:

IMG_7943.JPG.249ed59030c283393862923b379ee7bd.JPG

They were a fairly common sight at York up to the late 30s passing through on excursion workings from the midlands to various Yorkshire east coast resorts.

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On 11/11/2021 at 09:05, MrSimon said:

The finish on the coaches is incredible - love the worn wood on the guards door!  Do you have a secret recipe for painting the teak?  
 

Thanks for sharing!

Simon

Thanks for those kind words Simon. My recipe for painting the teak is not secret, it's based on Maryn Welch's technique (see Model Railway Journal Issue 176 (2007)!

In simple terms this involves first spraying the coach sides the sort of orange VW beetles used to be painted. Then streaking the grain using Humbrol gloss black  and a very skinny (and worn) brush, then doing the same thing with Ronseal walnut or mahogany (NOT TEAK) coloured varnish and then spraying with gloss varnish for the decals. After decals are applied, spray with satin varnish. The worn wood effect is done after this using weathering powders fixed with powder fixative.

Hope this helps!

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9 minutes ago, kirmies said:

This weekend has been a key moment in the gestation of 'This is York' - putting together the baseboard and the etched roof sections with two key questions:

  • Will they fit?
  • Will it look as I imagined/hoped it would?

Given that this is the culmination of work that has taken up most of my modelling time  this year the prospect of doing this was quite exciting and decidedly tense at one and the same time.

 

So......how did it go?

 

Day 1: fit the 9 sections of roof previously mounted on the test section of baseboard:

1734065565_RoofbuildRMweb1.jpg.fa092a8872d58b86d0a93a6b801e04ce.jpg

On the whole pretty good - one or two minor adjustments needed but nothing too serious or catastrophic.

 

Days 2 & 3: gradually adding on 15 more roof sections (each one consisting of three cross beams - all that soldering!).

This can best be summarised in a kind of time lapse video:

 

I am well chuffed! Here's what the final position at the end of the 3 day event looks like:

1355496714_RoofbuildRMweb2.jpg.07293cc9cc0cc9090acd753f25cfbe57.jpg

This leaves the 4 column section of taper at this end to build and then the back wall (oh, and everything else that remains to be done!). 

 

Pete 

 

That has come together really well. 
 

I think it has totally worked. 
 

Andy

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