Boxfile on a Budget - Phase 2

[Andrew D]

16 minutes ago, The Bandit said:

Lovely work Andrew. The thing with detailing is, once you start, other ideas occur to you and you can keep returning to the layout at odd moments and do a bit more. Your slow speed running is great. You look like you use insulfrog points which is even more impressive. I too use insulfrog and never seem to have problems - keep it simple is what I say. Have you thought about submitting photos to The Dispatch when you have finished? Ian is very accommodating and I’m sure the subscribers would love to see what you’ve built.

Thank you! Yes, one of the reason I’m using the Mainline 0-6-0s is because of the split chassis that makes them unpopular with DCC aficionados, and therefore cheaper to buy for us DC people. The split chassis arrangement makes light work of the insulfrog points, although I have found that adding some Heath Robinson pickups (see earlier post) also helps. When the layout is presentable I’ll see if Ian is interested - but bear in mind it’s taken me a whole year to get this far!
 

I went back to issue one of The Dispatch to check out your brewery layout and WOW! Impressive stuff, I really liked it.
 

Cheers.

Edited February 19, 2022 by Andrew D

[The Bandit]

Thanks Andrew. The photos I sent weren’t the best as I’m no photographer and it was my first go at posting pictures - my IT skills are very poor. Watch out for Bleak Moor Quarry Shed as the pictures I took are a lot better and there are more close ups.

[F-UnitMad]

On 08/11/2021 at 21:15, Andrew D said:

I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again - I don’t think box files can support a model railway that is operationally interesting, works well, AND looks realistic. I think you have to aim for two out of the three! 

Just been catching up on this thread. That is a very interesting statement!   you must include it when you write for The Dispatch, it's bound to get a conversation started!!   

[6990WitherslackHall]

I think these type of layouts are popular especially with people who have little space.

[The Bandit]

Very true. Also, they allow a ‘layout’ to be completed fairly quickly at modest cost. Along the way, the builder can also try out different scenic techniques which can then be used on a larger layout. For me, the challenge of using a very small space comes to the fore.

[sb67]

Your boxfiles are looking pretty good Andrew and the running is superb! Thinking about your buffers stops I've used sleepers chained to the rail on Ruston Sidings. I tried to think prototypically and if it wasn't a substantial wall would buffer stops be attached to it?  but I have seen sleepers fixed to the wall on some layouts and it looks just as good. 

Edited February 22, 2022 by sb67

[Andrew D]

@sb67Cheers Steve! I'm not going to get TOO wound up about it as it's hardly the last word in realism... 

[Ighten]

I simply modified the Peco ones on Tunstead Sidings..  May be a little hard to see here but I cut the rear supports away so the bufferstop (far right of pic) is now at the track and instead of a few cms down the line - space I couldnt afford to loose.

 

 

Rule 1 Later I then  added  overgrowth and static grass clumping around - you can disguise it quite well (though I cant find a pic showing that)

 

 

 

 

[Andrew D]

Hi folks, my sympathies to all at RMWeb for the catastrophic failure of their previous service provider. 
 

I’ve re-uploaded the images from July 21. I’m going to hang fire to see if previous images spring back to life. 
 

Fingers crossed I’ll get some time to work on the layout again soon. 
 

Cheers! 👍

[Andrew D]

Continuing the Low Budget theme, I’ve been finishing off the station and making a coaling stage with the aid of coffee stirrers. 
 

The coaling stage is leftover LCut Creative platform edging, coffee stirrers, matchsticks (for the posts) and LCut steps. 
 

 

The station fencing is made with matchstick posts and coffee stirrers cut into strips, again with LCut steps. As mentioned before, the grounded coach was picked up for £2 at an exhibition and fitted with an LCut door. 
 

 

 

 

 

For both the fencing and the coaling stage, the wood was painted Matt black, dry brushed with leftover magnolia emulsion, and weathered with chalk pastels. I also weathered the platform surface with pastels. 
 

Materials for both the station and coaling stage came in at under £5.
 

Next job is the track/ballast,  then hopefully I can start adding some weeds. 
 

As always, thanks for reading. 
 

Andrew 

[Andrew D]

It’s been the usual case of two steps forwards, two steps backwards… 

 

I went away for a few weeks so I took the main two parts with me and the home made controller… which, being housed in a margarine tub, didn’t take kindly to the travelling, parts became loose, and it short circuited. Now I have to start again, this time in a proper enclosure. It also meant I took the layout away with me then couldn’t use it.

 

Now I’m home I’m using a Gaugemaster Combi with more modern locos but am getting nowhere near the stunning performance I was getting with the homemade controller and the old Mainline locos. 

 

The travelling also takes its toll on the fixtures and fittings like the goods platform which is now a few mm off the ground… 

 

However, I have had a bash at cinders ballasting, using the DAS clay over ballast technique, and for a first attempt I’m quite pleased. I’ve yet to get the weathering powders onto it, but so far so good. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next job is to try and make a tender with pick-ups for the Hornby Caley Pug to improve performance on the less than even trackwork and insulfrog points, 

 

As always, thanks for reading. 

[The Bandit]

Love the filthy looking track.

[Andrew D]

3 hours ago, The Bandit said:

Love the filthy looking track.

Thanks! I was aiming for utter filth! :) 

[CameronL]

On 08/05/2022 at 23:15, Andrew D said:

Continuing the Low Budget theme, I’ve been finishing off the station and making a coaling stage with the aid of coffee stirrers. 
 

The coaling stage is leftover LCut Creative platform edging, coffee stirrers, matchsticks (for the posts) and LCut steps. 

That's worth a Blue Peter badge, not to mention the lovely work on Dale Green.

[Andrew D]

Finally, a day off to tinker with the layout. One job that has been waiting over two years is weathering my Hornby Class 29, or Class 21 and a half, or Class 21/29 Hybrid...  Here it is over two years ago bringing an Excursion from Perth to the Yorkshire Dales on my friend Lewis's layout, whom many of you might know from the small screen under his fruity pseudonym. It looks way too much like the 1980s plastic model that it is, and not enough like an actual working locomotive: 

 

 

 

 

Another job that had been waiting for years is a pick-up tender for the Hornby Caley Pug. Who remembers the heady days just a few years ago when you could pick these little locos up brand new for under £15? 

 

This boxfile layout is very much a skill-builder, and I built a home-made controller which controls my Mainline locos beautifully, but it broke in transit. I've not had the motivation to repair it, and have realised that while I CAN do electronics if need be, I much prefer the scenic and operational side of things. The Mainline locos don't run terribly well at slow speed with the Gaugemaster Combi, so I have a Morley Zero Three Crawler on order (as it's for my next layout anyway). 

 

The Hornby Caley Pug does quite well at low speeds with the Gaugemaster Combi BUT stalls on the points. Hence wanting to build a pick-up tender. I sourced an appropriately cheap and shabby wagon for the job last year: 

 

 

Using a Pick-Up Kit from Eileen's Emporium and loco/tender connectors from DMG Electrotech, I did the necessary soldering etc: 

 

 

 

There was a LOT of trial and error, mostly because those connectors are so fiddly. However, I did not want to hard wire the loco to the tender. 

 

As the Caley Pug is hardly the last word in realism, I wasn't going to tie myself in knots with the tender. I looked at the 4mm handrail holders I'd bought and thought 'nah'. My eyes aren't up to that. 

 

I simply chopped up a coffee stirrer to make the partition, painted it up with craft shop acrylics, and weighted it down with liquid lead under the coal. 

 

Then it was the fun bit, the weathering - without an airbrush. This was done using cheapo acrylic paints and chalk pastels from The Works, held together with a misting of Testors Dull Cote. Here it is having just brought in an ECS from Tobhar an Athair: 

 

 

 

The Caley Pug now runs beautifully, but the connector is a bit of an eyesore. I can't put it under the couplings as the wires then foul the track. 

 

Then it was time to work on the Class 21/29 hybrid using the same weathering methods, only this time with the addition of Humbrol gloss black paint. I am indebted to a kind gentleman called Derek J Jones who uploaded a superb picture to flickr of a Class 29 at Dundee in 1970, which I used as my guide image: 

 

 

I'm very pleased with how it turned out, just a couple of specks of rust to add to the front still. 

 

Caran Leisg is now running with the Caley Pug on the passenger service, and the Class 29 on the freight. In the spirit of keeping the costs down, the weathering cost next to nothing, and the tender to the Caley Pug cost about a tenner, but the latter has improved running (and enjoyment) immeasurably. 

 

 

 

Still a lot more work to do on the scenics, but that will have to wait a while as work gets in the way once again. 

 

As always, thanks for reading.  

[Andrew D]

This time last week I envisaged that I’d be writing about Caran Leisg falling under the Beeching Axe and the project being broken up. 

 

It was something that @TechnicArrowsaid on his thread about stalling projects that got me thinking. I’d seriously lost my mojo with this project because it was so unreliable and not robust; something was always broken which needed fixing and made me feel like I was never making any progress. So I’d procrastinate instead. 

 

Many of us are guilty of drudging through or stalling projects that seemed like a good idea at the time but have since for whatever reason lost their shine. But because we invested all this time/money/energy into something, we procrastinate rather than cracking on, because our heart isn’t REALLY in it. 

 

To cut a long and ruminating story short, I decided that what I really really want to do is pursue the realistic roundy-roundy in OO that I’ve been wanting to do for years. This means I’ll need to sell off or put on hold all the other projects that I had in my head and had started buying bits for - often way too many bits and pieces. 

 

But as far as this boxfile layout goes, it’s proved to be very frustrating for so many reasons. 

 

Basically, I have tried to make it do too much. I want smooth running, operational interest, reliability, more than a nod to scenery, AND I want it to be low-budget and portable. 

 

After plodding away at this for two years now, here’s my advice for anyone thinking of this kind of layout: 

 

- If you want portability, DO NOT remove the front panels to the boxfiles like I have. This compromises the integrity of the boxfile too much. And keep the track plan simple, a maximum of two roads (not three as I have) as you’ll be peering down at it from 45 degrees and won’t be able to get down to track level to see it. 

 

- Be realistic about the amount of space you have. I don’t have the space to leave this layout set-up even though it is small. 

 

- If you are going to ballast and weather the track AND you want reliability in your running, DO NOT use Setrack points. This is the second layout I’ve built where the Setrack points have worked fine until the track is painted and weathered. Not one of the five setrack points on my layout works properly. And you have short locos etc falling down the ‘V’ section. In future, I will only ever be using streamline electrofrog points. 

 

- If you want reliability, portability, and an operationally interesting track plan, don’t use a boxfile. Invest in a proper baseboard and box to put it in, like a Scale Model Scenery Layout in a Box. 

 

 

Anyway, I was basically fed up with bits breaking and falling off and the whole thing being generally unreliable. I’d decided that while I wait for the baseboard for my next project that maybe I’d scrap this layout and re-use some of the pieces to make a simple, one unit boxfile layout. The only rule I had was that I was not allowed to spend any money at all on it, but this idea went out of the window because of the unreliable Setrack points. 

 

Eventually I got the boxfiles out and started tinkering, wondering how to rationalise them. I used the main Box 1 & 2 unit on its own with the fiddlestick as a shunting puzzle, and thought that maybe I could just bung a bit of static grass down on the front panels and call it done. But I then connected box 3, and thought that I may as well make the Scale Model Scenery barn and fencing that I’d bought about 18 months ago…. 

 

… and here we are a week later with the mojo fully restored and absolutely loving working on the layout. Since adopting the mindset of ‘Done is Better than Perfect’ and removing all need for portability, I’ve started really enjoying getting the layout to a ‘practically done’ stage - especially as these last stages are generally the most enjoyable. 

 

And despite all the problems and failures, one thing I really really love about this layout is the track plan. It offers so much operational interest and play value. I could do without the engine shed siding, so I might yet decommission this and have it as a disused siding, we shall see. 

 

Here you can see the front fold-down flaps are painted ready for landscaping, and the new fencing in Box 3. 

 

 

 

 

One of the biggest headaches has been what to do with the channel that is left between the boxfile floor and the front fold-down panel when in use. After 2 years I’ve finally had a brainwave - it’s going to be a drainage ditch! 

 

The front will just be grassed over for now, a hard stand in front of the barn in box 3, and the engine shed tittivated as I’m not so keen on the white windows. Then it will be a case of weathering and blending the track and ballast, adding weeds, and seeing what I have in the way of little people and finishing touches. I am not spending a single penny more on this layout so it’s all down to what I have lying about. 

 

The end is in sight.

 

I can then refocus on the stock and I might even attempt to rebuild the broken home-made controller, but if I can just get this looking decent finally, I’ll be happy.

 

As always, thanks for reading. 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 17, 2023 by Andrew D

[davidparker172]

@Andrew D I have to say that I have thoroughly enjoyed reading through this build log tonight.

 

The layout is great, your descriptions sum up what a lot of people feel regarding issues and mojo etc

 

Can i ask a couple of questions (I am a newbie and trying to learn and get inspiration, and seriously considering some boxfiles after seeing this build and Brierley Canal Road by @Booking Hall)

 

1   Am I right in thinking this is a DC layout? Your running video shows multiple locos running one after the other but I didn't see any switching on or off etc

 

2   If DC, do you have most pieces of track having their own power via droppers (or equivalent)?

 

3   Your early pics of wiring diagrams and wiring installation etc are obviously missing, would you be able to repost on here or maybe send them to me on a message for reference?

 

4   How did you go about separating the front panels so they would fold down?

 

5  Have you used set track throughout?

 

I hope this is all ok?

 

Thanks in advance

Dave

Edited January 18, 2023 by davidparker172

[Andrew D]

Hi @davidparker172and thanks for your message. 

 

To answer questions 1 and 2, take a look at the post dated 31st January 2022 which shows how I dealt with ‘droppers’ (by laying the track on foam board so I could gouge out cable runs) and the switching for isolating sections (yes it’s DC). In the building phase I assumed that every set of points would fail (which they did on my N gauge layout) so added droppers to every side of track that relied on continuity through the points. This was a sound move as every set of points has indeed failed. 

 

I’m afraid I edit out the manual point switching, coupling/uncoupling, and isolating in the videos.

 

Sorry, I don’t have a wiring diagram. 

 

The front panels are just stapled in - a bit of brute force and ignorance separates them from the sides. But I would think very carefully before doing this as it really does massively affect the integrity of the box file. I’ll not be doing that again if I do another box file layout, and I would probably stick to only one boxfile. Anything bigger, I’d suggest a Scale Model Scenery micro layout baseboard in a Really Useful Box. 

 

Yes, I have used Setrack throughout. A huge regret. I wish I had used streamline Electrofrog points. I’ll never be using Setrack points again, ever! I am resigned to the fact that if you are going to ballast and weather track, you’ll be needing extra wiring anyway, so you might as well go electrofrog to start with. 

 

 

Hope this is helpful. It’s not a patch on Brierley Canal Road, but for a relative beginner I am very pleased with it overall. I’m AMAZED it has taken so long. I don’t think I could ever have a large layout due to the sheer overwhelm factor! 

 

Cheers, 

Andrew 

 

 

Edited January 19, 2023 by Andrew D

[davidparker172]

20 hours ago, Andrew D said:

Hi @davidparker172and thanks for your message. 

 

To answer questions 1 and 2, take a look at the post dated 31st January 2022 which shows how I dealt with ‘droppers’ (by laying the track on foam board so I could gouge out cable runs) and the switching for isolating sections (yes it’s DC). In the building phase I assumed that every set of points would fail (which they did on my N gauge layout) so added droppers to every side of track that relied on continuity through the points. This was a sound move as every set of points has indeed failed. 

 

I’m afraid I edit out the manual point switching, coupling/uncoupling, and isolating in the videos.

 

Sorry, I don’t have a wiring diagram. 

 

The front panels are just stapled in - a bit of brute force and ignorance separates them from the sides. But I would think very carefully before doing this as it really does massively affect the integrity of the box file. I’ll not be doing that again if I do another box file layout, and I would probably stick to only one boxfile. Anything bigger, I’d suggest a Scale Model Scenery micro layout baseboard in a Really Useful Box. 

 

Yes, I have used Setrack throughout. A huge regret. I wish I had used streamline Electrofrog points. I’ll never be using Setrack points again, ever! I am resigned to the fact that if you are going to ballast and weather track, you’ll be needing extra wiring anyway, so you might as well go electrofrog to start with. 

 

 

Hope this is helpful. It’s not a patch on Brierley Canal Road, but for a relative beginner I am very pleased with it overall. I’m AMAZED it has taken so long. I don’t think I could ever have a large layout due to the sheer overwhelm factor! 

 

Cheers, 

Andrew 

 

 

Thankyou for the reply!

 

Yes see now, i must.ve missed the comments about droppers. Its a good idea to avoid losing connection at points.

 

Ah ok, I see, sneaky video editing  😁.  

 

I have seen a few people comment on the fact that removing the front of these box files reduces the solidity of the box, I might have to investigate to see if there's a fix, it adds so much more build area that it would be worth finding a fix.

 

I agree with the Electrofrog comment, however, in a single box file you can 'only just' get two streamline points inside the box, with no track between them as they are longer points than set track, this makes it look a little too tight.

 

Yes its been very helpful thankyou.  And beginner or not you should be very pleased with your layout, its something i aspire to be able to build like, and is an inspiration (pics saved for future reference).

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

[Andrew D]

Cheers Dave. I think most people use the Streamline Short Y turnout which offers a good compromise between electrofrog reliability and a compact footprint. Looking forward to seeing your project on here once you start! 

[davidparker172]

@Andrew D Thanks for that, I never thought about using a Y piece.

I will have a look on Anyrail where i mock up my layouts before committing

 

[Andrew D]

'DONE IS BETTER THAN PERFECT' 

 

If you'd have told me when I started this that it would take me TWO YEARS to get it presentable, I'd never have believed you. But here we are. I guess I don't have as much free time in reality as I do in my head. 

 

I've had a real push this past fortnight to get the layout looking OK, using only stuff that I already had and not buying anything new for it. Here are a couple of Before and After shots: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm pleased with the layout overall, but there are things I'd do differently next time, and the one thing I'm really not happy with is the static grass. My fly-swatter tea strainer worked fine with the 2mm and 4mm, but the 6mm (which I thought was 4mm) was a disaster and might get scraped off and worked again. 

 

 

 

One recent addition I'm very pleased with is the mystery barn/store building where nobody quite knows what goes on inside. The door was my first attempt at hairspray weathering and I'm very pleased. I'm also pleased with the idea of making the inevitable channel in the box file a drainage ditch by painting it brown and then coating with PVA. There's a steel plate to allow cars access to the Mystery Barn. 

 

 

 

 

In this view of the other side of the line where Robert Wood stores his caravan, you can see one mistake I made which was to not paint the sleepers before ballasting and weathering. I'll leave it for now, but I'll definitely be painting the sleepers as well as the rails in future: 

 

 

The caravan needs a bit of green mould on the roof too. 

 

I've repainted the engine shed window frames black from white which wasn't the big improvement I was expecting, but at least I made some lintels out of cardboard which finishes off the windows/ I've tried bedding in the buildings with household filler tinted with acrylic paint, but even using cling film around the buildings has has limited success. Next time I'll apply the Das Clay after siting the buildings. 

 

 

 

A very kind RMWebber sent me some surplus pigments to help me improve my weathering, and I'm pleased with how both the Class 29 and Caley Pug have now turned out. I've since broken that awful connection between the Pug and its pick-up tender by trying to hide it, so I might just hard wire the pick-up tender to the Pug: 

 

 

 

 

Oh yes, the Pug needs crew as well! 

 

We'll see what else I find in my model railway cupboard to add detailing to the layout, but right now I'm going to get that Pug tender re-wired and have a good play for a few days. But this has been the frustration all along - always something that needs fixing before playing! 

 

Thanks for reading, and thanks for all the kind replies and encouragement. 

 

 

 

 

 

[davidparker172]

Absolutely superb @Andrew D

Its amazing what a change it make going from white card to painted and detailed.

Can I ask, the dreaded drainage ditch situation....

How are you cutting the front of your box to get the fold down section?

I want to do it to a boxfile myself but am undecided of best way...

See attached sketch of the options I see, unless I am misunderstanding and there is a third option ....

 

[The Bandit]

Congratulations on sticking with your box files Andrew - I think your layout looks superb. I bet Ian Holmes at The Dispatch would love it and so would the subscribers.

Best wishes

The Bandit.

[TechnicArrow]

Superb! I'm glad you found the motivation to get this past the finish line, it's a great result. Your groundwork and weathering is excellent, it ties the whole scene together; especially on the Class 29, it disguises the model's rougher heritage very well.

 

I'm looking forward to what ever is next ;-)