Sharp Stewart Small Passenger 2-4-0 locomotive parts and assembly

[Timber]

The Tender has some inside rockers for three point compensation, or there is a plastic 3D printed inner frame.  It is a bit chunky, it uses Alan Gibson hornblocks but it includes brakes.  

[Timber]

Here are the etched parts that I will use to complete the build.   I plan to build the base Tender, add to the loco, ensure that it is the right hight and couples up correctly then finish both the locomotive and tender together. 

Edited May 11, 2021 by Timber

[ianb3174]

I've learned more about loco building in these threads than from anywhere else. So for that alone, thank you. 

Yet to get a response from Markits for the 2-4-0 parts, will try again. 

[Timber]

Thank you - compared to many members my modelling skills are modest so I make models that work for me.   The S Scale standards are very good and I find that even the simplist models can me made to run just fine.  

[Timber]

Building the tender is very simple.  The first thing to do is to gently roll the top valance.  I start by gently bending using pliars.

 

Then finish by holding the part in a vice and gently smoothing the edges with a piece of hardwood.  I do all my modelling on a Workmate type bench that is really suitable for holding and folding these types of part

 

[Timber]

Then simply fold the sides but do not solder at this stage.

[Timber]

Next up is the chassis....simply fold along the two etched lines

[Timber]

The floor has some holes at the front that are used to support the handrails.  These are not etched through onto the chassis.  It is easier for allignment if these are drilled.  To ensure alignment screw the floor to the chassis, making sure that you have the front of the floor and chassis aligned. 

Edited May 14, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Finally the chassis, floor and body are screwed together with 4 times 6BA nut and bolts.  These are temporary but important to hold everything square for soldering.

 

Once completed you have the basic chassis ready for soldering.  You will see that the handrail "stays" are left pointing up in the air so that they are not damaged.

[steverabone]

Really superb work -inspiring modelling.

[Timber]

Soldering up the Tender body needs a bit of heat so best to have a large soldering iron.  The curved tops may need a little trimming but a good bead of solder on the inside will close any gaps and leave a reasonable finish.

 

Once the ends are all soldered then run a bead of solder along the bottom and smooth in with a sharp scrapper and a wire brush taking care not to remove the rivet detail.

 

Photo below is WIP - a fine steel wire brush will be used take the remaining solder off the rivets.  

[Timber]

The steps are then folded out and the under frame top layer is added.  Once again a good clean  up is required but I will finish the build and then clean off all the excess solder in one go.

 

Edited May 16, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

The inner frame is now prepared by adding Gibson 2mm bearings.

 

The bearings at the front are a push fit and once adjusted to the right hight will only require a small dab of super glue to hold in place.

 

The rear axle is designed to rock.  These bearings will be a more relaxed fit but if they do not move easily within the frame then each surface touched with a file will help free things up. 

Edited May 20, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

The frame fits to the tender with two 6BA screws that fit into two 6BA nuts that are soldered in side the tender body.  These nuts are held in place when being soldered by a screw from the underside.

 

You can see that at this stage all the other nuts and bolts have been removed from the tender.

Edited May 20, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

A quick test now that the tender chassis and body can be fitted together using bolts from the underside up into the soldered nuts.

 

This chassis is a bit bulky.  As an alternative, there are two rockers on the etch (one of which should be soldered so that it does not rock), something that can be used as an alternative  But I like the plastic chassis as it reduces the risk of shorting and the brakes are all in place.  

 

Originially I did fit extra pickups on the tender, this is something that can be used but I find that picking up off all six loco wheels sufficient.

 

I have just spotted that the tender frame outer skin needs some more solder along a few of the edges, I will do that once the chassis comes off.

Edited May 20, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Now to fit the tender top.  This is taken from the etch and soldered to fit in the tender.  On the prototype, judging by the rivets, the skin should curve into the body.  But for ease of construction I just fold the skin into a ramp.  I will fill the tender with coal and it makes the assembly alot easier as the ramp keeps the top nice and flat for soldering.

 

First I do a quick dry fit...

[Timber]

Then a bead of solder around the edges to finish off.

[Timber]

Handrails are fitted next.   The handrail stays are gently straightend and reinforced with a small bead of solder.  There are two handrails on either side and one brake handle on the right hand side looking towards the rear of the tender.  The handrails are small headed household pins.  The brake handle is one of Markits "extra long" hand rail knobs.  I will solder a cross handle into the handrail knob at the end of build so that it does not get damaged with handling during the build process.

Edited May 21, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

The tender headstock is a two part assembly.  On the prototype on the early tender it appears that there is a metal plate riveted to a wooden beam.  

 

I start with fitting an etched headstock.  This slots into the tender floor using the lamp brackets.

 

I then fit the coupling hook.  I use an oversized coupling hook to make operation easirt

 

 

[Timber]

I then fit the inner headstock.  This is a 3D print which includes cutouts for the Markits buffers.

 

The Markits buffers superglue in place taking care not to compromise the sprung movement.  This locks the complete headstock into a very solid assembly.

 

I have temporarily removed the brakes from the tender chassis as they were rubbing on the wheels.  I have modified the 3D design and reprinting allowing for a little more clearance.

Edited May 23, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

next up is to add the beam between engine and tender.   This is a small etched part.  The tender fixing is via a 6BA nut soldered into the base of the Tender.  A 6BA screw then holds the beam in place.  The other end fixes to the screw that holds the body and chassis.

[Timber]

Engine and tender are now a pair,

[Timber]

Working around the locomotive from the front.  First thing to do is to remove the boiler. 

 

After smoothing the 3D printed boiler, I find it best to strip the boiler of all paint and then repaint.  I paint 3D boilers before assembly as it is much easier to smooth a painted surface.  But as I smooth so the paint surface becomes irregular.  By finishing the job and stripping off all the remaining paint I get back to a smooth surface.  Otherwise I am replacing one problem with another.  The photos below show that once repainted the boiler is much smoother.

Edited May 26, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

The Albion class had a few different configurations for front sand boxes.  Most common configuration was a sandbox fitted under the footplate behind the steps.  (Although some versions dod not have the steps but the sandbox possition was the same.

 

On the Brecon and Merthyr prototypes larger sandboxes were fitted to the front top side of the footplate.   A connecting pipe took the sand from the sanboxes to the wheel along the top of the footplate to just where the steps are and than through the footplate and to the front wheel. 

 

On my model I have fitted the sandpipe below the footplate to the chassis so I just need a short length of 0.7mm wire to come through the footplate and connect into a 3D printed sandbox.

 

The 3D printed sandbox is a simplified version of the prototype.  But it does have a hole in the top.  This hole is off centre and has to be possitioned closest to the headstock in line with the cut in the footplate.

Edited May 26, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

 

 

Next up is to fit the buffers and hook.  Then the boiler can be reattached with a 6BA screw and bolt within the smokebox and glued into the cab using super glue.

 

The half cab is glued into the boiler.

 

There are two other 3D printed components that can be tested for clearances, the 3D printed boiler band and the cab interior.