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Using Solid Real Wood for modelling sleepers


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1388860650_woodtiesCA1000.jpg.2be3f63f5116c888a80664c6e20169bc.jpg

 

Just thought I'd mention the quite popular material used over here in the US for hand-modelling track, so it can have it's own focused discussion thread, rather than bringing it up randomly in other topics that don't want distractions. There are quite a few positives that are worth considering before choosing one of the ( quite many ) various known UK methods.

 

Andy

 

 

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Hi Andy,

 

Quite a few UK modellers are using Limewood strip for timbers. A wide range of strip sizes is available from model boat suppliers. See for example:

 

 https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/lime_strip.html

Including 4mm x 1.5mm, 4mm x 2mm, etc., for 4mm/ft scale crossing timbers:

 

limestripprofile.jpg
In fact 4mm x 2mm is exactly to scale for both width and thickness for 4mm/ft scale crossing timbers.

Other model boatbuilding suppliers may be worth a google.

Limewood is a soft easily worked wood (similar/same wood as Basswood). Strips are planed rather than laser-cut, so the dimensions might not be spot-on.

 

Other woods are also available in strip form:

 

 https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Stripwood.html

 

Ramin is excellent for structural purposes, bridge waybeams, etc.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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Hi Andy,

 

Another "solid" option is to CNC-mill the timber outlines into the surface of a solid trackbed panel:

 

mdf_sockets5-jpg.2308

 

mdf_sockets8-jpg.2340

 

EM Gauge. The material there is 3mm MDF, but plywood or solid wood are possible too (use downcut slot drills to create a clean edge). MDF doesn't have any grain of course, but it does have a timber-like texture when stained.

 

The timber outlines are milled 1mm deep. The deeper milled sockets are for the plug-in 3D-printed chairs which I'm currently working on in Templot.

 

This is still a work-in-progress so I can only show the above test pieces at present -- you have to imagine the milled areas filled with ballast. :) "Tracklaying" involves only drilling 4 holes in the corner of each panel and screwing it down to the baseboard -- easy to slacken and adjust alignments at any time.

 

If you don't want the plug-in chairs and are happy to use glued construction with injection-moulded chairs (e.g. C&L, Exactoscale), the sockets can be omitted and in that case it is all doable now. Any trackplan in Templot can be exported now as a DXF file, which can be imported into the Carbide Create (free) program to generate the cutter path. Use the outline kerf options in the DXF dialog.

 

This CNC milling is an alternative to FDM 3D-printed timbering bases, and laser-cut ply bases, which I am also working on. More info on the Templot Club forum, and about the low-cost desktop CNC milling engravers now available.

 

Part of a 3D-printed timbering base -- made on a child's toy 3D printer:

 

minibo_brick3-jpg.2753

 

The wide brim is needed to prevent shrinkage distortion on the unheated build plate. It all gets trimmed away, or buried under the ballast.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
typo
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11 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Ignoring how much better "real" wood looks as compared to ply or PCB, it works out a lot cheaper now that the cost of PCB strip has rocketed.

 

Mike.

 

FYI

 

Current US prices for bulk HO wood cross ties ( sleepers) is around  US$ 21 per 1000.

For bulk HO Switch ties (Turnout Timbers), prices are double at US$ 21 per 500.

 

US HO track needs about 150 ties per yard and so one 1000 pack is sufficient for nearly 7 yards.  (3 US$ per yard). The amount of wood needed for each larger UK 4 mm modelled sleeper is greater, but the number of sleepers per yard much less ( My guess 110). So I would expect UK modellers to get about the same cost per yard for wood sleepers.

 

Andy

 

 

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1 hour ago, Andy Reichert said:

 

Coffee produces wakers, not sleepers.

US Railroad terminology always makes more sense to me than UK Railway terms.

Who on earth in Britain thought it was a good idea to name the wheel assembly under rail vehicles after nasty, extraneous nostril matter, for instance??!! :picknose: :rolleyes:  

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The point of individual sleepers being available ready made, just like rail, and PCB sleepers,  is that it obviates the need for every individual modeller having computers, software, milling machines, laser cutters, 3D printers, or whatever, in order to make plain track and many varieties of turnouts. When it comes making turnouts, one size of turnout timber cut to the needed length fits all the possibilities.

 

PCB sleepers are already used extensively in the same manner, despite their flat appearance and rail isolating slots. With wood  sleepers, the scaled down grain is a major plus for close up photography. Then drilling and/or punching and/or gluing into softy wood allows very easy addition of  just about every possible type of rail fittings. And BTW, they don't melt when soldering wire to rails.

 

Much like we use the humble simple brick as the universal part basis for building real houses of every conceivable type and size.

 

Andy

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2 hours ago, Andy Reichert said:

The point of individual sleepers being available ready made, just like rail, and PCB sleepers,  is that it obviates the need for every individual modeller having computers, software, milling machines, laser cutters, 3D printers, or whatever, in order to make plain track and many varieties of turnouts. When it comes making turnouts, one size of turnout timber cut to the needed length fits all the possibilities.

 

PCB sleepers are already used extensively in the same manner, despite their flat appearance and rail isolating slots. With wood  sleepers, the scaled down grain is a major plus for close up photography. Then drilling and/or punching and/or gluing into softy wood allows very easy addition of  just about every possible type of rail fittings. And BTW, they don't melt when soldering wire to rails.

 

Much like we use the humble simple brick as the universal part basis for building real houses of every conceivable type and size.

 

Hi Andy,

 

Well yes, modellers have been building track by such methods for decades. I'm not sure what your point is, as far as I know there is no reason why they won't carry on. C&L have been investing heavily in new tooling for rail and chairs, and supply plywood and copper-clad timbering in strip form, and also injection-moulded timbers:

 

 https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/

 

Solid wood strip is available from model boat suppliers, as I mentioned in the 2nd post here.

 

Plywood, copper-clad, and solid wood strip is cut to length and attached to a printed paper template. Some modellers are also using card timbers cut from artist's mounting board. And coffee stirrers.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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On 03/03/2022 at 18:50, F-UnitMad said:

US Railroad terminology always makes more sense to me than UK Railway terms.

Who on earth in Britain thought it was a good idea to name the wheel assembly under rail vehicles after nasty, extraneous nostril matter, for instance??!! :picknose: :rolleyes:  

I understand it's taken from the French word for movement.

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On 02/03/2022 at 21:57, Andy Reichert said:

1388860650_woodtiesCA1000.jpg.2be3f63f5116c888a80664c6e20169bc.jpg

 

Just thought I'd mention the quite popular material used over here in the US for hand-modelling track, so it can have it's own focused discussion thread, rather than bringing it up randomly in other topics that don't want distractions. There are quite a few positives that are worth considering before choosing one of the ( quite many ) various known UK methods.

 

Andy

 

 

 

Andy, 

 

timber, in the from of thin ply has been used for many years for hand built track. When stained (I have found that spirit based stain is best) it looks very realistic. It is also available in the correct width  for 10" sleepers (3,33 mm) as well as for 12" point timbers in 4mm scale.

 

Jol

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On 02/03/2022 at 21:57, Andy Reichert said:

so it can have it's own focused discussion thread, rather than bringing it up randomly in other topics that don't want distractions.

I agree. I really do like the look of real wooden timbers, especially the way the paint and weathering soaks into them creating a nice realistic matt look.

 

I did a few of these in 2mm Finescale years ago, and they looked great. I think it was walnut sheets, if I remember.

 

Maximum respect to those that use this method!

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