Jump to content
 

Gaugemaster Combi controller wire connections


steve1
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am a big fan of the GMC Combi and use one on all my layouts.

 

The one niggle I have, is the way the wires to the layout attach to the controller body. As the wires are obviously quite fine and they are stressed when moving the controller about, it is not uncommon for them to disengage from their screw connector or even break. Either way, this is annoying when it happens during an exhibition.

 

Whilst puzzling of a way to overcome this issue, I had an idea. A Peco Code 75 railjoiner (other makes are available) fitted snugly into the socket where the wire was attached to the controller.

 

I then stripped the layout power wires accordingly, opened one end of the joiner, laid in the (tinned) wire, closed up the joiner round it and soldered the joint.

 

The other end of the joiner was fitted into the relevant socket and screwed down.

 

A quick run on the test track showed that, not only did it work and was robust, I had even fitted the joiners so the loco direction matched the controller setting! (Prior to this it had been backwards…)

 

Here’s an image of the job. ( Yes, I know it looks a bit messy but it works.)

 

steve

 

 

 

 

36B79683-C815-4F81-BB59-94E99DDE8D99.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now the wire will break at the top of the rail joiner where you have crimped and soldered it rather than at the connectors 🙁

 

Pit a bit of heat shrink over the joint, ideally actually 2 bits, one inside the other, to create a strain relief and that will stop it breaking 😉

  • Like 1
  • Agree 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I sort of turned mine into a walkabout controller... drilled a big hole in the other end, widened the slot by the screw terminals, then fed the wires out of the screw terminals, inside the body, then out via a fairly big cable gland in the hole at the other end.

 

Now the wires into the screw terminals don't move so there's no force on them, and the cable gland is more than enough support for where the cable bends as it leaves the unit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...