Triang Hornby Hymek Class 35 motor

[barney121e]

34 minutes ago, PaulaDoesTrains said:

 

I use T-Cut on a cotton bud. Much less abrasive than even 1000 grit wet-and-dry. Wiped off then blasted with contact cleaner to ensure that all residue has been removed.

Is that the WD40 contact cleaner thing?

[PaulaDoesTrains]

22 minutes ago, barney121e said:

Is that the WD40 contact cleaner thing?

 

WD40 do make a contact cleaner but so do many other companies.

[RedgateModels]

Just don't let traditional WD40 anywhere near your models - it's for freeing off bolts and water displacement. You can't go far wrong with Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning parts, just watch it on your painted finishes. 

 

For general grime shifting on bodyshells etc I use Carex soap with a tiny bit of COLD water on a soft toothbrush. Rinse off with COLD water and dry immediately. On older locos like your Hymek accumulated finger grease can cause the finish to "bloom" with a white haze over the surface if you use warm water. Don't worry about the tarnish on the pickup strips, they will work just as well as they are, just make sure there's no gunge  on the tips where they contact the wheels.

[barney121e]

Very strange question. Watched a guy on youtube service a R758 motor. On mine, there isn't any wiring but on his was a couple of wires from the rear bogie? How can i tell if there should be wiring on mine?

[Legend]

28 minutes ago, barney121e said:

Very strange question. Watched a guy on youtube service a R758 motor. On mine, there isn't any wiring but on his was a couple of wires from the rear bogie? How can i tell if there should be wiring on mine?

 

Others will know more than me , but sometime around 1973 the Hymek( along with other Hornby models - the 31 and 37)was modified to have pick ups from trailing bogie . Before that time it was from the power bogie only.

 

If looking at YouTube look out for 00Bill . Excellent channel showing how to service and repair locos . Not sure if he has done Hymek but he has certainly done similar 37. 

[barney121e]

12 minutes ago, Legend said:

 

Others will know more than me , but sometime around 1973 the Hymek( along with other Hornby models - the 31 and 37)was modified to have pick ups from trailing bogie . Before that time it was from the power bogie only.

 

If looking at YouTube look out for 00Bill . Excellent channel showing how to service and repair locos . Not sure if he has done Hymek but he has certainly done similar 37. 

Cheers, think i have found out why, the rear bogie has plastic wheels so must be a front bogie one only.

[barney121e]

Ok, having a few difficulties but want to check one thing, as think it might be the answer. On the bottom of the train, between the wheels are 2 cogs. Before i took it apart they didn't move, but now one moves. 

 

Should they move and any suggestions what to check next?

[33C]

15 minutes ago, barney121e said:

Ok, having a few difficulties but want to check one thing, as think it might be the answer. On the bottom of the train, between the wheels are 2 cogs. Before i took it apart they didn't move, but now one moves. 

 

Should they move and any suggestions what to check next?

They are the drive gears that mesh with the brass worms on the armature shaft. With everything assembled correctly they should not move until you apply power as they provide drive to the wheels. If one or both move when applying thumb pressure, check the nylon gears for stripped threads OR check the brass baseplate is screwed fully home.

[barney121e]

Well still no luck, although it seems i am missing 2 x thrust bush from the armature, and have used a new armature in case that was the fault. Also the collector units, although fitting in place dont always beep when i try a continuity test. Will get a replacement pair to see if that sorts the problem .Apart from that, i'm stumped.

[roythebus1]

I had one of the very first production Hymeks back in 1967/68 and fitted it with Trix AL1 wheels with rubber tyres. that loco would pull the house down, but of course I had to fit metal wheels and pickups to the trailing bogie. I sold it in the recent past, about 5 years ago, still running well.

[barney121e]

Well near to giving up, but getting feedback in my controller which must indicate something. Any ideas anyone?

[33C]

28 minutes ago, barney121e said:

Well near to giving up, but getting feedback in my controller which must indicate something. Any ideas anyone?

Need photos of all aspects.

[barney121e]

Here you go.

[33C]

2 minutes ago, barney121e said:

Here you go.

OK. Looks like the bearings for the ends of the armature are not seated in the casting. Move them out to sit IN the bogie casting. Also, ensure the brass tang on top is actually making good contact with the copper. Everything else looks good. 

[barney121e]

Well after more cleaning, triple checking everything and putting it back together again (about the 10th time), i put it on the test track. And somehow it burst into life, seemingly quite happy to go forward and reverse. 

[33C]

1 hour ago, barney121e said:

Well after more cleaning, triple checking everything and putting it back together again (about the 10th time), i put it on the test track. And somehow it burst into life, seemingly quite happy to go forward and reverse. 

The next one will be easier!

[barney121e]

Hi Guys

 

After some more advice. Although the Hymek is running , when it comes to points it stalls. The rear wheels are plastic and are not connected to the front bogie or power unit. Can anyone suggest what i can do to improve the situation. Is it looking to change the rear wheels and connect to front bogie?

 

Any help much appreciated.

[33C]

2 hours ago, barney121e said:

Hi Guys

 

After some more advice. Although the Hymek is running , when it comes to points it stalls. The rear wheels are plastic and are not connected to the front bogie or power unit. Can anyone suggest what i can do to improve the situation. Is it looking to change the rear wheels and connect to front bogie?

 

Any help much appreciated.

Check the back to backs of the wheels and and push them in or out according to the frog spacing you have.  Also, check the service sheet to see what's required to add extra pick ups. 

[RedgateModels]

First thing to check is that all 4 wheels are picking up power. We run similar chassis on the kids layout at the Mansfield Show and they run fine over Hornby set track points with no extra pickups. They are DCC converted, but no fancy stuff like stay alive etc.

[barney121e]

Have got the wheel distance tool and wheels appear short. Does anyone know how to seperate or adjust the wheels?

[NFWEM57]

On 07/05/2022 at 19:02, barney121e said:

Can anyone suggest what i can do to improve the situation.

You could change for metal wheel on the unpowered bogie and use DCC concepts pickups. I have done this on several models I have refurbished and sold.    Also converted powered bogie to DCC.

 

Image shows unpowered bogie conversion on the right.  Note this model was converted to EM gauge as well as DCC but fitting OO to unpowered bogie is the same process.  On power bogie, plastic gear/shaft assembly converted. Gear and 9/64th section of shaft retained and drilled out to 2mm on a lathe (9/64 shaft in a collet) and 2mm axles fitted so that standard replacement wheels could be fitted.  Axles do not extend into bogie sides so much quieter running; load bearing is on 9/64" part of chassis for Class 35.   

 

 

 

Edited June 11, 2022 by NFWEM57
typo

[NFWEM57]

On 11/05/2022 at 16:49, barney121e said:

Have got the wheel distance tool and wheels appear short. Does anyone know how to separate or adjust the wheels?

The wheels are mounted on the 1/8" section of the plastic gear/shaft assembly. But the shaft gets worn and so the wheel can be loose or can be pushed too far in.  Loose wheel can be fixed with Loctite 243 once back to back set.  You can also add 1/8" shims /washers to the 1/8" axles part to avoid wheel being pushed in too far, they butt up against the 9/64" section and are available in 0.25, 0.5 and 1mm thicknesses and are available form the likes of Alan Gibson.  You may need to use shims and the Loctite 243. If you have the original chunky wheels the back to back should be closer to 14.2~14.3mm rather than 14.5mm to maintain the correct wheel check gauge if using Code 75 track. 

Edited June 11, 2022 by NFWEM57
typo