EMGS society common crossing filing jig - use of..

[Haggerleases]

Hi all.

 

Had a bit of a faff last night using this device. I would have posted on the EMGS forum but it seems pretty dead. 

Basically I am constructing a crossing V for a 1:5 turnout. 

 

Point rail. The EMGS manual has an error where it says, 'File a piece of rail as far as the centre of the web as shown i Fig. 1. One way to do this is to secure the rail in the jig as in fig. 2. 

Well there isn't a jig shown in figure 2, so this should read fig. 3 I guess.

It also doesn't say which way up the rail should be? Am I filing from the top down? 

I'm having trouble getting the bend right after filing the rail down to the web for a distance of 4.5mm as in the manual sheet. 4.5mm isn't much to play with.

Why is this bend put in there at all? It seems to serve no purpose. 

For a manual, (and a resource for a beginner perhaps?)  it's pretty vague.

I've tried searching the forum but most of the older pics seem to have gone AWOL

 

Anyhow I ended up with an inch long slash in my finger from my freshly filed rail :( so I decided to call it a night lol.

 

Any advice? 

 

Stew.

 

 

[Paul Cram]

I am assuming the jig is the same as the P4 one. The reason for filing half way and bending is to ensure the the nose of the ve is solid all the way down. The 2 piece that are filed are oposite so one is filed upright and the other upside down. To do the bend insert into a small vice up to the bend point and bend using that.

[Haggerleases]

I sort of get that, but when you put the rail in the jig to file the correct angle, aren't you filing all that mostly away anyway?

[Stephen Freeman]

Personally I don't think a jig is absolutely necessary, however, the proper (easiest) way to do make a vee is the Martin Wynne way. Take the template and put a bend in the two pieces of rail, taking care to line them up with the template. Then file, I use a disc in a minidrill, it's quicker and more precise. Depending whether the turnout is Right hand or Left and take the diverging route rail and take it to a very fine point (wafer thin). The main route rail should have a blunt nose. Secure the main route rail and offer up the diverging route rail until you are satisfied. Hone to suit.

 

The reason for the bend is to ensure that the rail head is not too thin and unsupported.

Edited May 12, 2022 by Stephen Freeman

[Haggerleases]

I'm trying to justify the £40 I spent on the jig, as a beginner, thinking it was the right way to go. I will of course try all methods, and I'm very grateful for the advice. It's very helpful.

[Pannier Tank]

3 hours ago, Haggerleases said:

 I would have posted on the EMGS forum but it seems pretty dead.

 

It's probably worth posting on the EMGS Forum to a: encourage activity and b: hopefully get you an answer to your question.

[Haggerleases]

I shall give it a go. 

[Siberian Snooper]

If you are living within travelling distance of Bracknell, I would suggest a visit to the show at the leisure centre this weekend, you can get the info from the experts.

 

 

[UpDistant]

Having just re-read the instructions for the V jig I can see why it's confusing.  It's probably best to ignore the "point rail" and "splice rail" bits. The way I've used the jig is as follows:

 

1 - Dress the rail end square then insert into the jig foot first so that the whole rail end is proud of the filing surface. File it flush.

2 - Remove and deburr if necessary.

3 - Using a small pair of smooth jaw pliers, bend the filed rail end so that the bit you've just filed is parallel to the rail.

4 - Put the rail back into the jig head first so that the rail head and foot are proud of the filing surface then file flush. If necessary you can move the rail to take a little bit more off, but you can't put it back!

5 - Remove,  deburr and remove the thin, sometimes raggy end.

6 - Take your second piece of rail and repeat the process but put this one in the jig head first to start.

 

When you have your 2 pieces of rail which should be a mirror image, put them both back in the jig foot first so that the tips come together. Decide whether you want LH or RH; for LH the point rail should be the one in the angled slot and protrude further than the splice rail in the straight slot. Adjust the positions of both rails until you have a nice smooth looking V. Tighten the clamp and solder together. I've used "ordinary" 60:40 solder and haven't had any problems. For a RH point, the point rail is in the straight slot, splice rail in the angled slot. Dress the nose of the V with a fine file to round off the front and top surfaces so that it's smooth to the touch and doesn't leave shards in your fingers. Purists might throw their hands up in horror but it works and it is "hidden" between the wing rails anyway. Incidently, I tried to pull the legs of a 1 in 5 apart  - the soldered joint did not fail even though the surface area of the joint is the shortest in a 1 in 5.

 

As you are trying a 1 in 5 V, any short bits of scrap rail will do to practice with - keep at it!

 

Hope this helps.

[Haggerleases]

Briliant UpDistant! that worked nicely. AND I didn't have a bit of rail sticking out of my hand afterwards. Happy days! 

[UpDistant]

And then after all that you will have the delights of switch blade filing, and more filing, and even more filing.