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I've just had a go at copper plating a figure I printed in PLA a few years ago.  The plastic was painted in graphite paint and left to dry overnight, and then plated as if metal. 

This was four minutes of plating......

 

PLA electroplating

 

A boring video is processing as I post this....

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  • 2 weeks later...

A twin to the Peckett in gently in progress. This is the one with the gold knob.

 

2021-01-13_07-11-30

 

I've also pre-plated some of the pipework and clacks, so we will see how this turns out.

 

Peckett electroplating

 

Edited by Giles
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  • 1 month later...
9 hours ago, Giles said:

Another loco.....

 

 

I was just thinking; "Giles you lucky chap, eBay is never that kind to me". Then you started to explain about the chassis. Looks very complex and not all that well thought out? I think I know the kit it comes from and they make into fine looking models. Your solution for the replacement chassis is simple, elegant and fit for purpose, the kit version looked overly complex. As for radio control, excellent work! In recent times, revisiting my 0-16.5 whilst convalescing I've bottled RC (especially in resin based loco kits) and gone for DCC with 'stay alives' (they still have to be shoehorned into certain locos). RC being reserved for mainline diesels and certain tank/shunting locos. Always an inspiration to see your work in action. I couldn't see your on/off switch and charging circuit, are they bought in or your own design?

 

All the best,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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I hope you're getting a bit better!

 

I do agree - 'stay-alives'  make all the difference in the world,  and I've fitted them to a number of my NG locos. I think the difference for me is if I need to scratch-build a chassis, then it may as well be RC as overall it's simpler and more reliable, if one gets to use an appropriate gearmotor. If I was using a 12v motor, I would stick with DCC.

 

Glad you didn't see the on/off charging...... the switch was simply a 6mm x 1.5mm SPST , and the sharing was just a 1.25mm Molex solder socket - both from Micron. They're small enough to tuck in almost anywhere - it's the wires that take the space!

 

I must say I paid out good money for the loco, as the chassis was 'tested and working' - which it was on a technicality !

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13 hours ago, Giles said:

I hope you're getting a bit better!

 

I do agree - 'stay-alives'  make all the difference in the world,  and I've fitted them to a number of my NG locos. I think the difference for me is if I need to scratch-build a chassis, then it may as well be RC as overall it's simpler and more reliable, if one gets to use an appropriate gearmotor. If I was using a 12v motor, I would stick with DCC.

 

Glad you didn't see the on/off charging...... the switch was simply a 6mm x 1.5mm SPST , and the sharing was just a 1.25mm Molex solder socket - both from Micron. They're small enough to tuck in almost anywhere - it's the wires that take the space!

 

I must say I paid out good money for the loco, as the chassis was 'tested and working' - which it was on a technicality !

Hi Giles,

 

Glacially slow progress this 'Long Covid', I wouldn't recommend it - but thanks for asking.

 

Thanks for the words of wisdom, I agree, if the chassis has to come apart or be rebuilt might as well go RC. Cutting down on controller types is useful too. Micron are excellent.

 

Sorry to hear that about the eBay purchase, I've come across that type of item/seller too. It all came good though didn't it - all's well that ends well. Charming, detailed loco, that runs superbly.

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  • 1 month later...

Next up is Manning Wardle "Jubilee 1987" From the North Wales quarries. An Aganoria kit, which will have one of my own RC chassis underneath it.

It's not been an easy build, but worth it. 

 

Half way through it took a dive to the floor- after the tank was filled with lead!

 

2021-04-03_11-57-22

 

That surprisingly only took about 40 minutes to repair, once I had calmed down.....

 

Final details such as spectacles, chains etc added, together with some weathering.  Ready for the chassis now.

It does look big next to Gwynedd, which isn't the smallest Hunslet!

 

2021-04-13_05-05-41

 

This is the last remaining damage from the Great Fall. I had considered making a new back-sheet, which would have been no great thing, but actually I rather liked this bruised and battered panel. It's perhaps not something I would be brave enough to do intentionally, but it being there, I want to keep it. The spectacles are CNCd from 1mm perspex, with a 0.4mm rim on the inside.

 

2021-04-13_05-07-19

 

She's got a very Victorian look to her.

 

2021-04-13_05-09-56

 

 

2021-04-13_05-08-18

Edited by Giles
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2 minutes ago, Giles said:

I rather liked this bruised and battered panel

 

Me too! I saw the pic before reading the text and thought "How's the clever beggar done that?"!

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I quite liked the original "dents",I'm sure you could have come up with a story about a "heavy shunt" to cover them.It's turning out to be a splendid loco.and I look forward to seeing it running.

 

atb

Phil

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I progressively straightened out the footplate, pulling out the cab top strips as I went, until the whole thing was basically the correct shape again. I then laid each side against a flat wooden block and burnished from the inside to smooth out all the wrinkles and dents till everything was smooth again. I used a combination of odd items to burnish, the common denominator being that they were rounded and smooth. Larger in radius where I could get them in, but smaller to get into corners etc. Taking it gently and with a little patience and it gets there......

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