relaxinghobby Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Here is the Golden Arrow SECR/SR/BR O1 resin body kit to fit on the current Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. Gives a model of a typical late 19th century goods and mixed traffic loco in 00 form. Major surgery is needed and about 19mm has to be sawn off of the back of the Hornby chassis. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Some work is needed on the body to fill small holes left by the moulding process. There are only a few large parts to the kit. It saves all that fiddling about trying to get every thing straight that you have to do with a white metal or brass kit, but the resin is not very heavy and there is only a little room in the body for extra weight so it's performance will be about the same as the original plastic Jinty the chassis came from. In the tender you can see there is some smaller details of the springs, the resin gives good reproduction of large parts such as the dome and chimney but is not so good at the fine detail for example the safety valve which broke on the sprue.. I am intending to make it tender pick up and have made the draw bar arrangements more complicated than the kit instructions suggested. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Final picture shows it next to a Midland 2F for a size comparison, which would make the O2 about a 2F power rating, a real O2 can be seen on the Blue Bell steam railway in Sussex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted August 13, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2010 Final picture shows it next to a Midland 2F for a size comparison, which would make the O2 about a 2F power rating, a real O2 can be seen on the Blue Bell steam railway in Sussex. Useful thread, thanks, but your model seems to have had a promotion - it started as an O1, and has already progressed to an O2, apparently. I recommend you stop the progression there, as if you start calling it an O4, there will be all sorts of folk up in arms! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Final picture shows it next to a Midland 2F for a size comparison, which would make the O2 about a 2F power rating, a real O2 can be seen on the Blue Bell steam railway in Sussex. I hope the dome and safety valve cover are not glued in place on the 2F. In your other topic 3F to 2F you have them both ways! Other than that you are making good progress. Geoff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 Ages since the last post, the O1 is now ready for the paint shop.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 looking nice! I don't post my kit efforts up on here maybe i should, i enjoy watching this topic as i have built one of these earlier in the year, nice to see different ideas for tender pickups and joining the tender and loco together. Just working on a C-Class at the moment. Look forward to seeing more progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Thanks BMR for your comment I have been following your website with interest. Here is a progress report, I have started to paint my O1. I had some problems with the tender pickups, the back of the old style Jackson metal wheels I am using had a lot of burrs on them around the spokes which were catching on the wire wiper pick-ups, so I have filled the burrs flush with the back of the wheel rims. The picture tries to show how I have added lead weight to the front inside of the hollow boiler and tender cab. This second picture shows where I have sawn of the back of the Hornby chassis, I cut too much off and so have added a spacer to fill up the gap I created by mistake, The horizontal screw is the new body fixing screw and there is a loop of paper clip wire for the tender to hook on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Oh dear what a mess the paint has gone lumpy, it's an old tin of Humbrol number 3, Brunswick green I think, I'll have to buy a new tin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Oops! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Thats a shame... All i can say what i did with mine... i never cleaned the resin on mine, i gave it a wipe down and a brush to remove any dirt and dust. I used Halford primer before painting I used Pheonix paints to do the SECR livery, I didn't have any problem. You can paint straight on to the resin as i think i did it on the tender of this kit and not the loco just as an expirement, so i think it could be the paint being off as it were. Looking good though! still need to find the casting / pipe work on the side of the boiler for mine. Heres a couple from me. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 It certainly builds up into an attractive little engine. Geoff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 Thanks for the encouragement, the pipe work was made up from a piece of suitable thickness of wire and a short bit of tube, anything of the right fatness will do. Here Ian Rice's book on building and detailing white metal kits gave the method. I'm currently rubbing down the paint with fine grade emery paper and emery nail sticks and have bought a new tin of Humbrol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 Getting ready for a repaint I've been using Modelstrip. This is about the 3rd application of the paint stripper and there is still some paint left, the resin material that the loco kit is made of seems to have a very porous surface, I guess it is now ready for the new paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Great to see it (excuse the pun) back on track, hope this time it goes better for you. I think i asked the question before. The fitting on the side of the boiler not the wire but the top part, cant remember the name of sorry, where do you aquire these from i know its not with the kit... then again what is? hehe, just wondered as ive been looking for a casting to do mine... as mine are a tad absent. Thank you in advance and i hope things go better Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted November 24, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2010 Great to see it (excuse the pun) back on track, hope this time it goes better for you. I think i asked the question before. The fitting on the side of the boiler not the wire but the top part, cant remember the name of sorry, where do you aquire these from i know its not with the kit... then again what is? hehe, just wondered as ive been looking for a casting to do mine... as mine are a tad absent. Thank you in advance and i hope things go better Matt They are called clack valves (basically a non return valve to allow water to enter the boiler but not pass back out) Some kits have them as white metal castings but some nice turned / machined brass brass ones are available from Markits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 .... there is still some paint left, the resin material that the loco kit is made of seems to have a very porous surface,... I wonder if the old paint is helping to fill in the pits and gaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I guess it is now ready for the new paint. Try using a primer before applying the top coat. A can of Halfords grey primer should help, and there will be enough in a can to do several models. Geoff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted November 24, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2010 Try using a primer before applying the top coat. A can of Halfords grey primer should help, and there will be enough in a can to do several models. Geoff. Totally agree I always give a light coat of Halfords plastic primer on the resin bodied kits I have built so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Thanks Graham... i couldn't remember the name, I'll keep an eye out for those thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Hi this is how I made the clack valves, it's an idea I got from an Iain Rice Book. I dont't know how much a nice etched or cast brass one would cost because I've never bought one. This method allows you to custom make any of the boiler pipes and plumbing around the engine. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Great thats useful, that Iain Rice is a clever chap! Thanks for posting that up! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps . Same question/comment again . If you paint the model as shown it will look like it is pebbledashed. The model must be perfectly clean . I would clean the paint off with Nitromors paint stripper or similar. Resin is quite tolerant of paint stripper used carefully. If you spray a light coat of primer it will show all the imperfections. Fill these with Green Putty or similar re prime and then add a top coat colour preferably sprayed. Halfords do many colours there maybe a Green for your loco . 100 times better finish than brush painting. Re Clack Valves. Brassmasters do nice Brass turnings for the main part Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 The 01 class loco finally got repainted and runs O.K. but I am sure it will be out classed by the new Bachmann C class, more or less a model of the same prototype. I have tried lining the model once with transfers but it went wrong. There are still a few details needed like front buffers and safety valves. Here it can be seen leaving the small platform at Arkwright Mills with the single coach train a typical light railway job for such a loco. The coach is an old Tri-ang Wild West with bogies from Lima and metal wheels added, it could do with some hand rails on the veradahs. Arkwright mills is some industrial backwater somewhere in the 19th century not really a light railway more just a collection of joined up private sidings. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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