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A wagon a day...


D400

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Blimey its been a while since I contributed anything again... - time to correct that.

 

Last time it was Class 50s, so time to switch to my other favourite type of loco - the good ol' Class 37.

 

After coming back from a summer of playing with bigger trains wink.gif I finally finished 37673 - not a lot of work on this one - based on a 37406 with the ends swapped and fitted with a sound chip. Shawplan grills to provide the correct style. Very light weathering.

 

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Also got the chance to photograph 37669 properly outside - I've done this in a heavily weathered condition to contrast with 673 - i.e. just before it lost Railfreight Red stripe for Tripple Grey. This one started as a 37693 - again ends swapped and Shawplan grills - also fitted Hornby Class 31 buffers to this one.

 

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Next up a cheeky brush - my first infact - Limited Edition 47835, but with the incorrect tanks swapped for Heljan ones and also Heljan parts used to add the correct buffer beam level ETH socket.

 

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Finally, the biggy - 37698. The plan here being to see how far I could take a Bachmann 37 without too many parts and careful weathering. Quite pleased with the results - fitted replacement ends (ex 37693) to remove the incorrect Headboard brackets - and redone the headcode boxes using the deep style Shawplan etch. Also fitted 1 western region lamp iron to the number 2 end which was bent around by around 1993 - the period of the chosen model.

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End detail wise, the multipul working cable is the original (we could sorely do with a replacement for this but current alternatives are just as bad as the Bachmann one at present!), Vac pipe is Heljan, air pipes Hornby, MU socket Heljan, Buffers Hornby, and 3 link coupling is actually Bachmann from their 406 as I'm out of Hornby 3 links at present.

 

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Weathering I've built up gradually beginning with a fade wash of white, satin varnish and a tiny tiny tiny bit of original NSE blue just to give a very slight "blue" ting - this is because looking at photographs grey paint seems to go "blue" when fading.

 

After that detailed weathering was conducted with my usual mix of frame dirt and brake dust, followed by roof dirt in places - all heavily thinned, applied with a brush - and then with 90% of the paint removed with a cotton bud! This is applied to grills, seems, footsteps - basically anywhere dirt could collect. I also patch painted two of the roof panels with roof dirt as some sections are a noticeably different colour to the rest.

 

Then its out with the airbrush again to apply a general coat of roof dirt (to the roof unsuprisingly!) and frame dirt/brake dust mix to the lower part of the body - combinations of the two colours are also layered up on the chassis. Finish touch is satin black around the exhaust ports and a coat of varnish to seal.

 

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I'm still pretty new to this gig so feedback is always welcome along with hints and tips on how to improve - though I think 698 looks pretty work worn to me - just need a rake of HAAs and a South Wales coal mine to complete wink.gif

 

Cheers,

Bruce

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Nice and subtle - very realistic for the era. As for the HAA's, I did detail up some of the old Hornby ones in Railfreight Red and Coal Sector Yellow. But, TBH, if I was going to do some more I'd get the latest release and strip them down and repaint the cradle. Details here from Greorge dent (scrol down a bit!!) My link

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Well, those are all very nice, but 37698 definately has the edge. The look you've achieved is very believable.. and I think that's the crux of the detailing/weathering lark... to produce a model that can be mistaken (in photos) for a 12" to the foot version. So, the clean models can equally achieve this, although I'd probably apply a little more weathering to the bogies and underframe to make them standout. Comapring thsi with reality, when Royal Scot's Grey came back into main line traffic earler this year she looked splendid (concourse?) with pristine paintwork and shiny black bogies... reality reflecting the model? However, after a short while in service this finish will quickly temper and the sheen will be lost. applying a coat of matt black (or dirty black Railmatch) to the bogies starts this off... but then some discolouring to reflect heat from the brakes and traction motors# (#do they produce heat?) and a liberal application of brake dust close to the brake blocks and axles... combined with soem oil drippages and dirt washing can usually make the bogies stand out much more than the bodysides... lifting the effect. At least, that's how I see it... but then I'm a Deltic nut.... so maybe I'm a little biased.

One fairly simple addition you might want to consider is the addition on the brake levers (and chain if you can get it) between the body and bogie... although if the bogie height is dropped it will restrict the minimum radius you can operate on... it's this sort of thing that (I think) ties the model parts together.

 

What you've achieved is great. It looks superb.... I bet is sounds good too;)

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The 37s look superb but Coedbach has the edge with the weathering. Jon's comment about adding the brake chain is a good one and something I'd echo, I'd also suggest you can add a good representation of the MU hose by carving up the Bachmann one to reduce it in side, and replace the plastic moulded pipe with some thin wire. The final tip is to gently open up the tips of the horns using a drill bit - I started small to get a pilot hole dead central and then opened them out.

 

In this pic you can see the the MU hose replaced and fine 40 links per inch chain used for the brake actuation links (as well as a buffer footstep from some old etched fret and sanding pipework from elastic):

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My model of Caerphilly Castle had the horns drilled out and some extra pipework and valves fitted around the fuel tanks:

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Hi chaps,

 

Thanks for the tips all very helpful - particularly like the idea of drilling out the horns - simple but effective - so long as they don't break! Regarding chains and brake levers - well I already have some Shawplan levers but no chain - however I believe MG Sharps are going to Warley - so another item to add to the shopping list rolleyes.gif

 

I probably won't do any to 698 though - I do plan on revisiting my 671 though and over the next 4months or so (depending on when the donor models land from Bachmann!) I plan on adding 37709 and 37417 to my fleet as well. The former will be another chance to try and see just how far I can take one - it will require the bodysides respraying too as I'll have to filler away the window and footsteps.

 

Meanwhile I've been working on a couple of other things - which I shall post details of soon as I can take some photos - problem with these short days is its dark by the time I get home....

 

Cheers,

Bruce

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Bruce,

for the chain try:

P & H models.

07960 941010

philstrains2005@aol.com

which is where I got mine - they're very helpful and pleasent to talk to. The part I use is: Detail Associates code 229-2210 Satety Chain 40 links to inch black. About 12†of chain per pack.... that's what you can see in James's photo of 37013

Jon

 

 

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Hey James thats what I do with my baccy 37 horns. Makes a big difference. You can even go a bit further than your pic if your careful.

 

As for the chain I get mine from cornwall model boats. There are lots of useful bits and bobs available there http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/. Just do a search for chain in the search box on their site. Loads to choose from.

 

Cheers

Cav

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  • 1 month later...
fitted replacement ends (ex 37693) to remove the incorrect Headboard brackets -

 

Oh no! I have had a model of 37254 which I used for a conversion, which is almost ready. Although I could have done with a nose with headboard brackets, which 37254 doesn't have.

If only I had of seen this earlier maybe we could have swapped....

 

Love the Tractors anyway, they're looking great. Well done.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Two months have passed and just to prove I've not been totally idle - here are a couple of Vacs I've done over the passed couple of months.

 

50019 Ramiles is my first full respray since getting an Airbrush - pretty pleased with it. No weathering on this one as its for my father.

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Next up is 50024 Vanguard - I did this mainly to "use up" the red buffer beam fitted chassis ex-50027 and also because 024 in this condition hauled the first loco-hauled service to call at my local station, back in 1987.

 

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Also on the bench is 50031 though this is awaiting etched plates before it can be declared "finished".

 

Bruce

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Guest jim s-w

Hi Bruce

 

Nice to see a refurbished 50 in blue. They are not modeled that often. Looks a good paint job too!

 

One tip I can give you, even if you dont fix the winscreens or the bodyside grills is to lower the Hornby 50 on its bogies and fit the right sized wheels. They just look really odd as supplied.

 

Heres one on my workbench to show you what I mean.

 

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HTH

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jim,

 

It is my intention to upgrade all my vacs with correct sized wheels at some point - Ultrascale do appeal but the cost could be an issue - are there any cheaper options?

 

Been working on a few more items this weekend - including a 47 and two 37s... will post some photos in due course :-)

 

Cheers,

Bruce

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Hi Bruce

 

Nice to see a refurbished 50 in blue. They are not modeled that often. Looks a good paint job too!

 

One tip I can give you, even if you dont fix the winscreens or the bodyside grills is to lower the Hornby 50 on its bogies and fit the right sized wheels. They just look really odd as supplied.

 

Heres one on my workbench to show you what I mean.

 

post-482-0-40229600-1295466439_thumb.jpg

 

HTH

 

Jim

 

Blimey Jim that looks remarkably different! I like the way it sits down on it's bogies... is the lowering an easy mod to do?

 

Nidge ;)

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Guest baldrick25

One tip I can give you, even if you dont fix the winscreens or the bodyside grills is to lower the Hornby 50 on its bogies and fit the right sized wheels

 

What is the 'right size' wheels for the 50 please? I always thought they looked 'funny' on the ones I have, but never delved that deep at the time. Thats inspired me to revisit the class 50's..

Thanks

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Guest jim s-w

Hi chaps

 

The right size for a 50 is 14mm. Branchlines do a set for p4 or you could use the wheels from a Hornby 31 if sticking with 00. Some of the p4 and EM modellers on here probably have some heading for the bin. (you will need 1 and a half locos worth and no I don't have any left before anyone asks)

 

The mod is easy if not a bit brutal. You need to remove the bogies and there is a pad moulded into the bottom of the chassis. File it off and reassemble. One thing I would say though in 00 there's a chance the wheels might hit the chassis due to the deep flanges - I can't say weather they do or don't.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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Thanks for that Jim, duly noted. I'm starting to accumulate some WR stock for a possible long term 4mm project but have yet to decide which gauge to go with, regarding the above mod it looks like I'll have to have a good long 'think'.

 

Thanks again,

 

Nidge ;)

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Looks good Brucie Burger. Have you not fitted your P H Designs steps to any of those Tractors yet?

 

Rick

 

 

Apologies for thread hijack.... Hi Rick. Haven't seen you post recently although I've been looking at your old 37 thread for by 55 bogie updates. Good to see you still here. I loved that large logo 37 of yours.

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  • 1 month later...

Firstly thanks to everyone for there help with Class 31 wheelsets - I now have enough do two locos at some point - just a case of choosing which two....

 

Currently on the bench is 37191 and 37685. Both are a bit camera shy at the moment but hopefully the ligher evenings will change that soon.

 

At the moment though I've turned my attention to weathering up some wagons - aiming to do 1 wagon at day as they simple to be a pretty easy win during the evening.

 

First up is a HEA - simple stuff this just airbrushed the bottom with a little Humbrol 29 then dry brushing with Humbrol dirty black acrylic and also applied the same heavily thinned as a wash. Finished off with a few bits of Woodlands coal that failed to fall out of the hopper. post-7036-0-98253600-1299106871_thumb.jpgpost-7036-0-77943000-1299106957_thumb.jpg

 

I'm currently looking into Gouache and also hope to pick up some of these Games Workshop washes at the weekend.

 

Cheers

Bruce

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Three days have passed but only two more wagons - I'm lagging behind! Another HEA (though in fact a HSA) and a Hornby Rudd.

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With the Rudd I've experimented with using Games Workshop "washes". I'm not totally convinced myself - what do others think?

 

Also sneaked a quick work in progress shot of 37685. Still missing glazing at the moment (I've yet to apply a coat of varnish) But its beginning to come together now.

 

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Bye for now,

Bruce

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post-7036-0-23670600-1299427530_thumb.jpg

With the Rudd I've experimented with using Games Workshop "washes". I'm not totally convinced myself - what do others think?

Since you ask (and I am not saying I could do any better myself), Rudds were a Civil Engineers wagon used for new and spent ballast so they would normally be covered in paler stone dust rather than black dirt and not really a vast amount on the bodywork anyway. Most of the scratches on the bodywork would be red-to-brown rust (although I suppose some would be darkening a bit more depending how long in traffic) and the inside would be a sort of 'dusty rust' colour.

 

HTH

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  • 3 weeks later...

Since you ask (and I am not saying I could do any better myself), Rudds were a Civil Engineers wagon used for new and spent ballast so they would normally be covered in paler stone dust rather than black dirt and not really a vast amount on the bodywork anyway. Most of the scratches on the bodywork would be red-to-brown rust (although I suppose some would be darkening a bit more depending how long in traffic) and the inside would be a sort of 'dusty rust' colour.

 

HTH

 

Hi there,

 

I agree - and hence have been attempting to reduce the weathering and have made a discovery! Games Workshop washes don't come off without a fight....dry.gif Hopefully I'll be able to disguise the results with a new weathering method I've been trying with much better results....

 

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This is my first venture into the world of Gouache - its taken some getting used to but as Pugsley says (it was his work that inspired me to give it a go) if you don't like it - you can just wash it off!! So I've been experimenting with it on a seacow and I'm quite happy with the results smile.gif

 

Bruce

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Fantastic job on the Seacows! Tell us more about this Gouache!!

 

Guy

 

Gouache (pronounced "Goo-ash") is a hi-pigment watercolour paint available from artist's shops. Pugsley has posted much on it on the old RMweb and I would read: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=35829 as that gives a very good general guide.

 

It is not cheap however, costing about £4 per small tube - rather than buying a "starter set" which will contain colours you'll never use I would recommend just getting just the earthy colours used for weathering (Raw and Burnt Sienna and Umber, and I also bought Sepia and Yellow Ochre) along with black and white as a starting point.

 

It can be used in variety of ways which work really well - washes (thinned with screenwash), dry brushed and also just neat for example for rust effects. The biggest advantage though is you can combine and blend these methods as adding any dampness causes it to turn back to paint. For example on the interior of the wagon I dry brushed various "ballast type" colours and then place small blobs of Raw Sienna on to the rivets using a cocktail stick. Then using a only slightly (and I mean slightly!!) damp brush I carefully ran over the rivets to create the rust staining - because the dry brushing is also gouache - the paint blends wonderfully. The trick though is to use only the slightest amount of dampness - too much and it will turn into standard watercolour which will just float on the surface of your model.

 

For memories of GCSE Art - it is a bit like working with oil pastels - gouache can be neatly blended creating an infinite range of colour.

 

The big advantage is you can change it and pay with it to your hearts content until your happy with it - then seal with varnish.

 

If you've not tried it I would certainly give it it gosmile.gif

 

Bruce

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rudd take two:

 

Attempt number two at the Rudd having removed most of the games workshop wash and then using Gouache. Another one I'm pretty pleased with.

 

Been working on other things as well which I will plonk up here soon smile.gif

 

Bruce

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