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Jack's in, or "Shortliners shortline"


shortliner

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Yes, Warren, thats more or less what I thought you meant - the problem then is disguising the locolifts to look like a carfloat

 

other than painting the locolifts brown (the metal parts, just paint and weather) I think that can stay the way they are, if you add the boat gantry at the dock on the layout it will kind off hide the lift bars, unless you can modify the bars to be removable from the locolifts once it is placed, but that could be to much work todo.

 

or make you locolifes double joined together, then you can make it like a barge, seeing a barge would of had 2 tracks anyway.

 

What ever you choose todo it will be awesome.

 

on he freight house, is it going to follow the curve of the tracks, I think that could work for you.

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Paul -It may be possible to do so - although I hadn't thaught of going down that route it needs some thought

 

Warren - I'll give that some thought also - not sure yet if the Freight house will be a continuous cuve for the back wall, or if it will be done using straight sections to follow the arc. First I need to work on getting the track fixed down and wired - still trying to decide if the track needs cork under it or if it should be layed directly onto the baseboard, or have a thin fillet of foam under it. Decisions - decisions!

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.

I never bother with cork, I just go straight down to the baseboard, but I do install uncoupling magnets(cheap magnets found in local hardware store, but at one of the local clubs, they been showing me this earth magnets, which are very strong, and cheap). In the baseboard, I chisel out the space the go into (if the base board is 1/2 inch, if not I cut a hole and mount the magnets though and glue them to the track once it is glued down.

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DM - That was exactly what I thought but I've been havering about it. The cork was being considered less for the sound, than to give a slightly raised trackbed - but various photos of the yard indicate to me that it should be just about at ground level

 

Warren - I won't be using magnetic uncoupling on this - there are too many curves and too little straight track to get the couplers aligned, This will be a "HOG - uncoupling stick" * and my intention is to be driver and switchman following the train around, rather than standing behind the board. I do use the rare-earth magnets on other layouts though.

 

*Hand of God - aka "the telegraph pole from the sky"

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snapback.pngAndrew Peters, on 20 March 2010 - 21:33 , said:

 

Looking very good Jack,

 

Not sure if you have seen this site INDUSTRIAL & OFFLINE TERMINAL RAILROADS OF BROOKLYN, QUEENS, STATEN ISLAND, BRONX & MANHATTAN and the direct link to your location Harlem station

 

There are some very good ideas here and I am working on 1 now.

 

 

Thank you for this link! I found a perfect prototype for my small N-scale freight yard biggrin.gif

 

Andrew - Del ,This might give you ideas

 

http://members.train...co/nynhhn1.html

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Andrew - Del ,This might give you ideas

 

http://members.train...co/nynhhn1.html

 

tongue.gif tease.

Cheers Jack bit early for my taste of loco's

 

Here is a look at my idea that I'm having. You might be able to guess where it is based onwink.gif

offlineterminal2.jpg

 

N gauge 4 boards 1m x 40cm ( 2 end to end x 2 at right angles) with a removable storage area off to the left. And of course car floats coming in and out with the Help of HoG rolleyes.gif

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N gauge 4 boards 1m x 40cm ( 2 end to end x 2 at right angles) with a removable storage area off to the left. And of course car floats coming in and out with the Help of HoG [

nice, I like that, railroading along the waterfront is awesome.

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Drizzly and rainy today, so I thought I'd have a fiddle about. Took one of my Underground Ernie chassis, and four resin castings from my plasticene masters, attacked the bogies and the castings with some rough sandpaper and used Araldite Rapid to stick the castings onto the bogie frames. Dug out a partly complete MDC/Roundhouse boxcab body-shell and then took some thick plasticard, cut a baseplate to fit the body and cut a hole to fit around the UE mechanism - It seems to run happily. and - at least to my eyes - looks reasonable. unsure.gif I need some of that very fine miniature lead shot (liquid lead?)to give it some weight - does anyone know who sells it?

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The Ernie Bo-Bo certainly works fine, not the slowest runner, but quite smooth, it may get a bit slower as it runs in. The resin sides look fine, for future ref, you can cast into the resin some brass wire, which can go through drilled holes and bend over behind the frames, as retaining tabs.

 

Stephen.

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I was looking for a Paint scheme for a new RS-1, when I cam across this NY float bridge entrance, it seem fitting for your trays, that you can still keep the trays as they are

My link

 

 

Stephen - thanks for the suggestion - I may try next time

Warren - that LIRR float-bride is very similar to the one I had on the shoebox layout - Ingleferry wharf

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I am fortunate in having picked up, over the years several complete kits, and even more shells for the MDC/Roundhouse boxcabs. Today, -since the sun has decided to shine, I put together an original kit with the original chassis (on the left) and a shell ,using my modified UE chassis (on the right) the original weighs in at 250 gm, the moded version has two strips of lead in the roof and weighs in at 200 gm. Since it will be moving a max of 3 cars, that seems to be fine. BTW, one of these has a shell with end doors, and the other is without. I'm using a Vari-pulse throttle made by a guy in Canada, and offered at intervals on Ebay, and am very pleased with the controlability. Comments gratefully accepted

post-6688-126969752571_thumb.jpg

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I am fortunate in having picked up, over the years several complete kits, and even more shells for the MDC/Roundhouse boxcabs. Today, -since the sun has decided to shine, I put together an original kit with the original chassis (on the left) and a shell ,using my modified UE chassis (on the right) the original weighs in at 250 gm, the moded version has two strips of lead in the roof and weighs in at 200 gm. Since it will be moving a max of 3 cars, that seems to be fine. BTW, one of these has a shell with end doors, and the other is without. I'm using a Vari-pulse throttle made by a guy in Canada, and offered at intervals on Ebay, and am very pleased with the controlability. Comments gratefully accepted

 

The Ernie chassis certainly looks the part, Jack.

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The loco fleet is up to four - two MDC/Roundhouse originals, and two UE converted ones. Both shells done today will need their bits added and the UE one will need lead strip added too to give it more weight. Both will also need their couplers fitted - a job for tomorrow.

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Today it snowed - again! Decided that after completing the work on the locos, I should try them out, so put the layout on the kitchen table and pulled a couple of the map-pins out that are currently holding track in position. Connected up the Vari-pulse controller, and very pleased with its performance - recommended if you need a DC one and are happy to import it - though you can find the instructions for a DIY version on the Inter-webby-thingie-net. Discovered that the flex-track curve was a rather strange, almost spiral, shape - which meant that the locos struggled with the gauge tightening, although all worked. The UE ones are MUCH quieter than the originals and seem to run fine. I pulled the curve, extended the rails and relaid it on a 13.5" centre line as a continuous curve at that radius - Locos are much happier, as are the boxcars, and no longer seem th be fighting a tighter radius curve of the rails, than the swivelling amount of the bogies will accept. I can honestly say that I have no idea how the transitioning, spiralling curve happened, but I'm very glad it is sorted at this point, rather than finding out after I'd fixed the track down. BTW Roughly cutting the lead - and fitting it to the UEs - one weighs 206.7gms, the other 208.1gms

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Discovered whilst testing this afternoon, after I got back from the GNOS Exhibition at Elgin, that one siding was dead huh.gif - and a power check with a meter confirmed it rolleyes.gif - somehow a rail-joiner had got missed off, and half the siding had no power - had to remove, replace joiner and relay trackicon_redface.gif Also needed a small adjustment to the spacing of the two Locolift (barge) tracks.

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Thanks Colin - The layout is coming on slowly - mainly because I decided that, as the track is fairly close to the edge in places, a small clear fence around the edge to prevent things getting knocked off might be a good idea, so I will have a 2½" high clear plastic strip around 3 sides, just in case! This is a better safe than sorry job - gravity shunting is hard on rolling stock! Clear rigid PVC sheet is a PIG to cut without cracking!!! The air has been somewhat blue - AGAIN! The 4th side will have a 6" high backscene hiding the locolifts - picture will follow when the work of attaching the clear sides and backscene has been done. Bought some part-angled wood moulding this afternoon to run along the outside of the clear strip and improve the appearance.

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Today I fitted the clear sides - they look a little odd as they still have the protective plastic on them - The "backscene board" needs further work before fitting, and the side strips won't be trimmed until that depth is sorted out - I'm quite pleased with how it is progressing so far . To orient you, the two track top left will go through the "backscene" to the Locolift Barge simulator. There will be a further board that will be hinged onto the backscene board, and fold out to remove the "barge tracks" from view, probably with the layout name on it

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