Any Question Answered

[Ian Smith]

When I’ve fitted sleeves to motor shafts I have always used thread locker, I also apply power to the motor while it’s drying to hopefully prevent the sleeve from setting onto the shaft off-centre. I don’t know if it works but to my small brain it seems like it should.

Ian

[Velocemitch]

I bottled out of using the tube and have ordered a sleeve.

safest option I think.

threadlock sounds a good idea too.

[65179]

On 26/02/2022 at 13:54, Sithlord75 said:

A question about rivet detail come up on the ZAG meeting this evening/morning (delete as appropriate).  There was discussion on how best rivets were modelled - obviously trying to do scale ones is pretty much impossible, particularly on wagons etc as they'd be too small but as they are an important part of breaking up the side of a tender or wagon they are necessary to model.  The discussion included points about pressing out rivet detail v have a hole in the etch to introduce shadow, the way in which they are done using 3D printing methods and a tool to run a line of rivets in some prepared material was shown,

 

The questions are - how necessary are rivets in the modelling sense, should we count them or is a representation sufficient and finally how would you represent rivets if you had to add them?

 

As others have said, there needs to be something there when their absence would otherwise be obvious. Sorry to use these as an example again:

 

but missing panel lines you can get away with, whereas no rivets on these would look silly. 

 

I'm not a fan of holes in etches to represent rivets, not least because they then don't take paint in the right way when weathering. That said, I've had trouble replicating the subtle effects of muck/rust around rivets that works well in the larger scales. Whether that's a surface tension issue with washes/thinned paint or just me doing it wrong I'm not sure. 

 

Simon 

[jonhinds]

Hello

 

I’m posting here as a ‘tourist’, given that I’ve just started modelling in N gauge. 
 

I’m new to scratch building and hit a snag replicating riveted detail on an iron bridge. Wondered if the experts here would be able to suggest a good approach? I don’t own a 3D printer, Silhouette cutter (etc.) so mainly reliant on my clumsy fingers. That being said, wondered about getting something made up by a professional service.

• The images represent the iron side panelling of an overpass (light grey), with riveted detail (blue) and slightly recessed areas (bounded by red lines).
• The rivets are approximately 0.2mm - 0.25mm with a gap of 0.25mm - 0.3mm (rivet plus gap equals about 0.5mm).
• The rectangular areas bounded by red are recessed by 0.1mm; they could also be approximated by an etched groove along the red lines with no actual recession.

To 100% scale on A4 sheet:

 

 

Closeup:

 

The two approaches that seem promising are a 3D print or an etch to make up the panel. It’s 201mm in length so may need to be assembled from shorter pieces.

 

Thanks in advance!

[jonhinds]

Double post, oops!

Edited March 15, 2022 by jonhinds
Double post

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

 

I’ve used Railtec 3d printed transfers to represent rivets on one of my n gauge projects.

 

 

https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=4421
 

Cheers

 

Paul

[PaulCheffus]

.

Edited March 15, 2022 by PaulCheffus
Double post

[jonhinds]

50 minutes ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

I’ve used Railtec 3d printed transfers to represent rivets on one of my n gauge projects.

 

 

https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=4421
 

Cheers

 

Paul

Thanks, that could work! Looks like the right size as well.

[jonhinds]

.

Edited March 15, 2022 by jonhinds
Double post

[jonhinds]

.

Edited March 15, 2022 by jonhinds
Double post

[queensquare]

1 hour ago, jonhinds said:

Hello

 

I’m posting here as a ‘tourist’, given that I’ve just started modelling in N gauge. 
 

I’m new to scratch building and hit a snag replicating riveted detail on an iron bridge. Wondered if the experts here would be able to suggest a good approach? I don’t own a 3D printer, Silhouette cutter (etc.) so mainly reliant on my clumsy fingers. That being said, wondered about getting something made up by a professional service.

• The images represent the iron side panelling of an overpass (light grey), with riveted detail (blue) and slightly recessed areas (bounded by red lines).
• The rivets are approximately 0.2mm - 0.25mm with a gap of 0.25mm - 0.3mm (rivet plus gap equals about 0.5mm).
• The rectangular areas bounded by red are recessed by 0.1mm; they could also be approximated by an etched groove along the red lines with no actual recession.

To 100% scale on A4 sheet:

 

 

Closeup:

 

The two approaches that seem promising are a 3D print or an etch to make up the panel. It’s 201mm in length so may need to be assembled from shorter pieces.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Im currently working on a not dissimilar bridge. Im using a more traditional approach of plasticard for the girders but also intend to use Railtec rivets..

 

Jerry

 

 

 

[Caley Jim]

I've never used the rivet transfers and my own preference would be for a 2 layer etch.  One layer plain for the recessed panels with a half-etched overlay on top with the rivets full thickness.  PPD's standard sheet width for 10thou N/S is 300mm (less 10mm border either side), so your 210mmm length is doable in one piece.

 

Jim

[jonhinds]

3 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I've never used the rivet transfers and my own preference would be for a 2 layer etch.  One layer plain for the recessed panels with a half-etched overlay on top with the rivets full thickness.  PPD's standard sheet width for 10thou N/S is 300mm (less 10mm border either side), so your 210mmm length is doable in one piece.

 

Jim

Thanks, that looks like the best option for me (had a go with decals today and found them a bit of a faff). Seems it’s just a case of sending formatted Adobe Illustrator files to PPD. Hopefully not too expensive for what I’m after.

[Caley Jim]

37 minutes ago, jonhinds said:

 Seems it’s just a case of sending formatted Adobe Illustrator files to PPD. Hopefully not too expensive for what I’m after.

I've found them a very good company to deal with and fairly prompt with their turn-around time (usually quicker than they quote).   Don't forget the 10mm margins and make sure everything is well tagged.    When you send the file specify delivery by post, otherwise you'll get stung for courier charges!

 

Jim  (no connection with the company - apart from them being Scottish - other than a very satisfied customer)

[Jayk]

   Went to make a shop3 order yesterday but the 100DP, 1.5mm bore worm (3-361) is TOS and that the 3 options of skew cut gears are now listed separately. There are also two brass worms listed as 3-370/1 depending on whether you want 1mm or 1.5mm bore. However these are M0.25, I've had a look as best as I can and M0.25 is listed as equivalent to ~101.7DP and even a post from Izzy in this section where they were conflated but I didn't understand the discussion enough to be sure if they were being treated as equivalent or merely as similar sized options based on available space.

 

   So, can I use a M0.25 worm with a 100DP skew cut gear or do I need to locate an alternative source for a 100DP worm?

 

Many thanks.

[Izzy]

In the general scheme of things MO.25 is classed as running quite okay with 100DP. The worms are indeed meant to be used with the skew cut 100DP’s. I’ve used one in my N7/3 and it meshes fine. 
 

Bob

[Jayk]

Thank you for the swift reply, time to go write the order!

[Argos]

I'm just in the process of finishing planning an Irish layout with a terminus based around Cahirciveen albeit moved from GSWR territory onto the MGWR.

 

In the course of researching I found this reference in a 1996 copy of Irish Lines:

Does anyone know if Mr O'Sullivan built his layout?

[Caley Jim]

6 minutes ago, Argos said:

Does anyone know if Mr O'Sullivan built his layout?

I can't answer the specific question, but we do have a member with that name.  Try asking on the VAG.

 

Jim

[Argos]

Thank Jim,

I haven't been able to get on the VAG since changing email address a while ago.

Interesting that he may still be a member of the association.

[Velocemitch]

Is there a history of eccentric wheels within the association products?

I've been working on getting my Bob Jones Jinty chassis running, which I bought years ago and never finished. The Wheels are an old version with cast white metal centres. I'm fining the chassis will not run well at all. It seems OK when running upside down with contacts attached, but when running on the track its awful. It looks to me like the wheels are eccentric, which is creating lots of problems with pick up. The chassis does have the Simpson spring idea fitted, I do wonder if this is part of the problem, is the quartering not quite right pulling the wheels up and down in the clearance?

I've attached a couple of video's which might help on a long range diagnosis

[[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]][[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

[DavidLong]

15 hours ago, Argos said:

I'm just in the process of finishing planning an Irish layout with a terminus based around Cahirciveen albeit moved from GSWR territory onto the MGWR.

 

In the course of researching I found this reference in a 1996 copy of Irish Lines:

Does anyone know if Mr O'Sullivan built his layout?

 

Hi Angus,

 

I had a number of contacts with Patrick some years ago. He is the chap who arranged for the J15 etches to be produced. At the time he was writing the Oakwood books (two volumes) on the Farranfore to Valencia Harbour branch. He attended a number of Association events but I haven't seen him in the recent past. I don't know if the layout was started or completed. Patrick uses email so Jim Watt could send him a mail and ask if he could contact you. If you speak to him on the phone it's best to cancel all other activities for the evening!

 

David

[DavidLong]

11 minutes ago, Velocemitch said:

Is there a history of eccentric wheels within the association products?

I've been working on getting my Bob Jones Jinty chassis running, which I bought years ago and never finished. The Wheels are an old version with cast white metal centres. I'm fining the chassis will not run well at all. It seems OK when running upside down with contacts attached, but when running on the track its awful. It looks to me like the wheels are eccentric, which is creating lots of problems with pick up. The chassis does have the Simpson spring idea fitted, I do wonder if this is part of the problem, is the quartering not quite right pulling the wheels up and down in the clearance?

I've attached a couple of video's which might help on a long range diagnosis

[[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]][[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

 

My suggestion would be to buy some new ones. The white-metal centred wheels were good for their time but eccentricity was not unknown. They almost caused me to give up the scale! Current productions are more expensive but light years ahead in reliability.

 

David

[Ian Smith]

43 minutes ago, DavidLong said:

 

My suggestion would be to buy some new ones. The white-metal centred wheels were good for their time but eccentricity was not unknown. They almost caused me to give up the scale! Current productions are more expensive but light years ahead in reliability.

 

David

As David says… however both of my most recent locos - Dean Goods and 517 both utilise wheels that I bought in the late ‘80s early 90’s that have silver metal centres (I think they’re white metal not mazak).  Whether I was lucky with the wheels or whether it is the way I’ve used them is hard to say, but both locos run beautifully.  I tend to give  the non-geared wheels quite a bit of vertical movement (.5mm or so), and have springs applying downward pressure on those wheelsets.  Both locos have solid brass chassis so are inherently heavier than an etched chassis.

Ian

[Velocemitch]

I hadn't realised the post went through, I thought I'd stopped it as the video's weren't showing for me??? Do they show for others?

 

There is a clear movement of the drivers possible half a mm or more. 

 

To be fair, previous wheels I had during that period didn't display this problem either, so may be its just a bad batch. It will be a shame to have to strip it all back out to use new wheels, but I guess its the right solution.