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Judith Edge kits


Michael Edge
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Mike, are you sure the buffer recommendation is correct?

in the instructions buffers are quoted as Gibson 4903, ive been sent them today and they are round base with no lip, very like l&y style.

You've been sent the wrong buffers then, 4903 are LMS/BR standard with square base. Sounds like you have 4902 or 4904.

Glad to see the motor fits well, we'll add that to the instructions

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must be a mistake at Gibsons because the sticker on the packet says 4903.

I take it the handrail knobs are gibson small? a few of them have pinged off into the abiss :)

 

a Lenz standard chip fits well in the smokebox too.

 

I wonder if the early chimney may have had a spark arrestor in it? for under the Liverpool Overhead?

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The handrail pillars we supply are from Markits, I think the shortest 4mm ones in his list.

I was sure I had seen a photo of a Bank Hall Kitson with an LOR blast deflector but I think I was mistaken - apparently they were not supposed to work on the MD&HB system because they didn't have a bell fitted.

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The handrail pillars we supply are from Markits, I think the shortest 4mm ones in his list.

I was sure I had seen a photo of a Bank Hall Kitson with an LOR blast deflector but I think I was mistaken - apparently they were not supposed to work on the MD&HB system because they didn't have a bell fitted.

 

Well I never saw one (i.e. a Kitson) down there when I worked on the docks as a skinny teenager in the early 1960s but I saw plenty of Pugs. Fifty years on, however, I cannot remember whether they still had blast deflectors but I suspect they didn't, as the Overhead had gone by then.

 

ATB,

 

Stan

 

PS Is the latest Overhead kit available yet?

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Im pretty sure they did get under the Overhead, if only between Alexandra dock yard (where they where mainly used) and nabouring yards, going by an ex Bank hall drivers recollections it would have to have a man with a red flag in front of it.

 

there is footage of one shunting across Blackstone st on steam around Liverpool.

 

Mike is the MD&HB hunslet the same nickel as the kitson kit? ie the saddle tank the same to form?

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The next LOR kit is still some way from production. I do want to revise the Princess etch but in the meantime we would be happy to sell some more of the existing one at £45. We can take definite orders (don't send any money yet though) for our next etch delivery in September.

The Hunslet saddle tanks are a lot easier to form, without rivets they are full thickness (brass) and have half etched lines for the sharper radius lower bends. I find the large radius curve over the top quite easy to make, the lower ones are much more difficult.

Michael Edge

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back out, got a few more jobs to do on the cab and body while I get some romford markits ordered.

tried a set of comet crossheads but they are too big.

resin bits are just placed on or with blu tack and the cab and boiler isnt bolted to the frames which is why it looks out.

the leaf springs look nice but take a while to do, 4 layers with 4 holes in each.

 

post-27-0-47762400-1343494077_thumb.jpg

Edited by michael delamar
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Mike Ive built the Kitson EM gauge, the slidebars and the front of the coupling rods are very very close, even with the rod down to one thickness with a washer ground right down, not sure its going to clear the crosshead.

I've just measured my 00 one and there's more than 1mm clearance between the crankpin fastener and the back of the crosshead. Don't worry about the pin in the crosshead, it never coincides with the coupling rod. What sort of wheels and crankpins are you using?

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I was using gibsons but im going to put romfords on it now. i cant work out how ur supposed to put them on then clean the chassis after doing things like brakes and then paint it, but anyway.

 

problem now is ive opened up the coupling rods for the gibson bushes but ill put them on the romford crankpins.

 

I couldnt get solder to take to the hat pins and I was trying to solder the crankpin together whilst it was on the slide bars but then found it can be done off the loco.

could you give me a run down of how you go about making and fitting the crossheads.

 

on your OO one you have 1mm clearence, but the frames on mine are EM but the cylinder side spacing is still the same, i think it ill just clear but any side play which there is on the front axle of mine and they will hit. I think I will cut the cylinder supports out and space them a bit further out.

ive done the compensation on the front which works well, in fact everything went together well until I got to this stage.

its a really well thought out kit.

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..... I do want to revise the Princess etch but in the meantime we would be happy to sell some more of the existing one at £45. We can take definite orders (don't send any money yet though) for our next etch delivery in September.....

 

Please put me in for a September one, Michael. And again for the revised version, whenever that eventually happens.

 

Thanks.

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Mike is it possible to have a shot of the underneath of your kitson to make sure ive gotten everything right please?

 

looking at that pic I can see now I should have had a washer on the outside of the frames anyway, look how the front wheels have scoured the chassis.

 

I would never be able to get gibsons back on and quarter them using the gw jig with the slidebars in the way although they are easy to unsolder and put back on I guess, the cylinder front and back bracket is only tack soldered in but cant slide it out however because of the front spacer on top of them is soldered on.

maybe that spacer could have been smaller so the 2 cylinder brackets and rear bracket could be slid out with the slide bars intact?

Edited by michael delamar
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I was using gibsons but im going to put romfords on it now. i cant work out how ur supposed to put them on then clean the chassis after doing things like brakes and then paint it, but anyway.

 

problem now is ive opened up the coupling rods for the gibson bushes but ill put them on the romford crankpins.

 

I couldnt get solder to take to the hat pins and I was trying to solder the crankpin together whilst it was on the slide bars but then found it can be done off the loco.

could you give me a run down of how you go about making and fitting the crossheads.

 

on your OO one you have 1mm clearence, but the frames on mine are EM but the cylinder side spacing is still the same, i think it ill just clear but any side play which there is on the front axle of mine and they will hit. I think I will cut the cylinder supports out and space them a bit further out.

ive done the compensation on the front which works well, in fact everything went together well until I got to this stage.

its a really well thought out kit.

I use Gibson wheels but not crankpin system, I drill and tap them 10BA and fit Romford crankpins. a thin slice of 1mm I.D. tube is the fastener. I never use loose bushes, these only add additional slop in the system and the fasteners add to the overall width - nuts are almost always impossible behind crossheads without recessing them into the rods. The reason I mentioned the clearance on my 00 model as more than 1mm is that your EM wheels should be exactly 1mm wider each side.

Cylinders in my kits are where they should be, only the wheel gauge varies - if you use Romford wheels you will have more trouble because they are thicker, in fact Romford at EM gauge are often overscale on tread width

Never allow any sideplay in wheels behind crossheads, you shouldn't have any on an 0-4-0 anyway.

I never dismantle frames for painting, they are sprayed with wheels, brakes, sandpipes and cylinders in position. I do sometimes leave out the slidebars if this is convenient but probably wouldn't in this case as they are easily scraped clean.post-1643-0-42146800-1343554732_thumb.jpg

You can see the difference in wheel gauge by the number of Romford crankpin washers behind the con rod.

Hope this helps.

Mike

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I didnt mean to make this a kitbuilding thread, moreso a review of the product like any of the rtr threads.

 

managed to get romfords to fit behind the front axle on the kitson, down to one thickness of rod with gibson small bush turned around and filed down and soldered on, extremley close but doesnt touch.

I did do as mike suggested first with the gibsons, tapped with romford crankpins which is a good idea, but the wheels where wobbling all over the place so put some romfords with turned down flanges on.

Edited by michael delamar
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...with the result that it would touch the crosshead so back to gibsons it is. ordered a new set.

I will tap the front as Mike recommended then screw in the romford crankpin with rods and bushes done- romford crankpin on front with gibson short bush inserted with its narrow end filed down to one coupling rods thickness then soldered to the romford crankpin and filed down.

 

I cant get on with the etched crosshead so looking into a cast/machined one.

 

ive also done away with the compensation on the front and made it solid.

 

I suppose I could give the chassis a coat of paint now as I know it runs, ive been able to clean and degrease it which I wouldnt have been able to do with the wheels fitted.

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The Hunslet saddle tanks are a lot easier to form, without rivets they are full thickness (brass) and have half etched lines for the sharper radius lower bends. I find the large radius curve over the top quite easy to make, the lower ones are much more difficult.

Michael Edge

 

Mike, Ive been asked by Chris to ask you if you are intending on releasing the large MD&HB avonsides?

 

and do you know the shade of green used on the Liverpool hunslets and avonsides?

 

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The large Avonside had quite a few errors in it but I didn't correct them at the time and may not be able to remember now. If I have some space on a test etch i'll do another one.Ii don't know what shade of green MDHB used, mine are painted with Humbrol No.2.

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