Positioning Kadee (delayed) magnets

[br2975]

Currently under construction is a glorified 'Inglenook' design, intended to sit in what is known hereabouts as my 'library' a 5'0" x 5'0" glorified cupboard.

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Two fiddle boards will be built to enable enhanced operation e.g. through trains, and the exchange of stock to/from the yard - and attached to the layout when operated outside its normal home, or possibly when exhibited.

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A seperate thread, charting 'Coldblow Lane's' development will hopefully begin shortly elsewhere on the forum.

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It is intended to use Kadee couplings on some (modern-ish) stock, but other stock will be equipped with three link couplings.

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The concept is shown on the attached plan, and it is my intention to place Kadee delayed magnets under the track at the heal of the points of all three sidings i.e. Exchange Siding, No.1 and No.2 roads instead of just one at the toe of the headshunt point.

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My reasoning is that previous experience has shown that Kadees can be tempremental at times on such curves and over pointwork.

 

I'm seeking opinions and experience of other contributors. . . . .

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The floor is yours folks ......

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Brian R

Coldblow Lane-2.doc

[kevinlms]

Currently under construction is a glorified 'Inglenook' design, intended to sit in what is known hereabouts as my 'library' a 5'0" x 5'0" glorified cupboard.

.

Two fiddle boards will be built to enable enhanced operation e.g. through trains, and the exchange of stock to/from the yard - and attached to the layout when operated outside its normal home, or possibly when exhibited.

.

A seperate thread, charting 'Coldblow Lane's' development will hopefully begin shortly elsewhere on the forum.

.

It is intended to use Kadee couplings on some (modern-ish) stock, but other stock will be equipped with three link couplings.

.

The concept is shown on the attached plan, and it is my intention to place Kadee delayed magnets under the track at the heal of the points of all three sidings i.e. Exchange Siding, No.1 and No.2 roads instead of just one at the toe of the headshunt point.

.

My reasoning is that previous experience has shown that Kadees can be tempremental at times on such curves and over pointwork.

 

I'm seeking opinions and experience of other contributors. . . . .

.

The floor is yours folks ......

.

Brian R

 

Sorry Brian, but you are in big trouble in hoping to use Kadee's on a curve. They are designed for straight track only, because the magnets can only pull evenly, so if the pins are are offset, they will BOTH pull to the one side - the more powerful force, which will be the outside.

 

From the Kadee website kadee.com

 

Sam the Answer Man: #43 May 2010 “Uncoupling”

"To go along with many current discussions about “uncoupling” I’m going to briefly cover a few important aspects of coupling and uncoupling.

Kadee® couplers are designed to couple and uncouple on a “straight” piece of track. If the couplers are off center even a little bit they usually will not uncouple. For hands off coupling the couplers need to be aligned straight with each other where the contour of the knuckles allows them to slip by each other, pushing the opposing coupler open until the lip of the knuckles pass and the knuckle spring closes the knuckles. Now the lips of the knuckles are indexed or locked together. The knuckle spring allows the knuckle to flex and compress during operations and yet holds them together. To uncouple you, again, need to be on a straight section of track long enough for your two longest models, then allow slack between the knuckles. The coupler will not open without enough slack for the lips to unhook or pass each other. Methods of uncoupling may vary from our tried and true magnetic uncoupling to the many home built and commercial manual uncoupling tools. Our Delayed Magne-Matic® Uncoupling System, has been around since the late 1950s and is still the primary method of uncoupling for many modelers. When you stop over one of our magnetic uncouplers and allow slack between the couplers the magnet will pull the trip pins of the couplers in opposite directions thus opening the couplers. As long as you are over the magnet the couplers will stay open (delayed position) now you can push the cars back together and the couplers will not lock up but keep each other opened as you push off the uncoupling magnet. As long as you keep pushing pressure on the open couplers they will not lock up. Now you can push the uncoupled car and spot it almost anywhere on your layout. When you pull away the couplers will snap back to center and be ready to be coupled again. This

Magne-Matic Delayed Uncoupling® is a complete hands off coupling and uncoupling system. For those who like the full experience of manual uncoupling and have the eye sight and dexterity needed there are many different manual uncoupling tools available (Kadee’s #241) or many modelers make their own from skewers and such. Again allowing slack insert the tool between the knuckles, without forcing, then with a gentle twist the couplers will pop open. This sometime takes a bit of practice to get the hang of it but once learned the uncoupling comes almost naturally.

Next month I cover electric uncouplers and a bit on remote uncoupling."

 

 

 

I think you'll find the same issue with most uncouplers, they rely on straight track. You may get away with short wheelbase vehicles as your radius is fairly generous, but you will be pushing the boundary (not least in installing the magnet). Lay a test piece of track at your minimum radious & try it.

 

Kevin Martin

[br2975]

Thanks Kevin.

 

Due to an 'anomally' (that's an excuse for a mistake !) in the layout design, the 'exchange' road, and also 'No.1 & No.2' roads have short straight sections of varying lengths at the (i) toe of the point in the 'exchange' road, and the heels of the point accessing 'No,1 & No.2' roads.

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As a result, the three magnets will be installed one per siding, and not in the headshunt.

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Thanks for your time.

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Brian R

Edited October 2, 2011 by br2975

[tender]

Hi Brian,

I can only reiterate Kevins post. If you want to use Kadee's reliably both wagons/coaches to be coupled/uncoupled must be on a straight track. The longer the wagon/coach the longer the straight track you need. i.e if you want to uncouple two pieces of bogie stock, all four bogies must be on the straight.

 

Regards

Ray.

[shortliner]

Agreed - uncoupling on curves is problematical at best - for the coupling/ uncoupling to work magnetically/automatically, both wagons need to be in a straight line or practically straight. You could, in theory, get away with a very short straight bit of track using truck-mounted couplers on bogie vehicles, since the bogies would be in a straight line over a shorter distance - but I wouldn't have a truck-mounted coupler on my stock at any price.

[john new]

This may be an old thread but has very useful advice re-Kadees. Thanks guys.